Need recommendations for chainsaw purchase

[email protected] wrote:
> [re: new chainsaw] Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.

Popular Mechanics did a review recently, and they liked the Stihl in
the $300 range...
http://tinyurl.com/kde7f

Of course you could always check here for an alternative to a gas
burner...
http://www.crosscutsaw.com/

JP

Ross Hebeisen wrote:
> I've been a logger for 38 plus years and although i ran jonsreds for
> most of those my saw of choice in the later years has gone to husqvarna.
> the 455 rancher will do what you want to do and will last for years with
> a little care. sells for $339.95 w/ 20" bar and chain at
> www.baileys-onlie.com there a great logger supply outfit at a good
> price.
> ross
> www.highislandexport.com

Absolutely loved the last line on the home page of your website.
Tell's a potential customer all they need to know about you and your
business. Nice touch.

Thanks to you and everyone else for the good advice.

Thomas Kendrick wrote:
> I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is too
> much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt.

Intersting to hear you say that. I've never run a 20 for any length of
time...the only saw I have any real experience with is my (former) 18.
I always felt comfortable with it...that if I started getting much
longer it would be more difficult to keep the chain off the ground.

I go snow/winter camping all the time, and I always take the saw to
make wood-gathering go more quickly. (The shear volume of wood you
need when the nighttime temps are in the singles is kind of shocking.)
I'm looking for dry wood, so I'm obviously not felling anything. (Plus
it's not always that clear what's dead and what's not in
mid-January...)

I had thought about going with a 20 if the price/specs were in line,
but you're post kind of confirmed my suspicions. I don't need
length...I need control. I may even go with a 16 if I get a good deal
on it.

Thanks for your experience.

Upscale wrote:
> "Thomas Kendrick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is too
> > much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt.
>
> Not having much experience with chain saws, does the option exist to remove
> a longer bar (at one's discretion) and put on a shorter bar and chain?

Usually. Most saws come with a recommendation for bar length and an
acceptable range. So long as you're within the mfgrs range, you should
be good.

Depending on the bars, though, it can get expensive. A 16" bar/chain
won't break your bank, but a 24" can start to cost.

Upscale wrote:
> "Thomas Kendrick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> > I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is too
> > much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt.
>
> Not having much experience with chain saws, does the option exist to remove
> a longer bar (at one's discretion) and put on a shorter bar and chain?

Usually. Most saws come with a recommendation for bar length and an
acceptable range. So long as you're within the mfgrs range, you should
be good.

Depending on the bars, though, it can get expensive. A 16" bar/chain
won't break your bank, but a 24" can start to cost.

I have a Husky 350 and previously owned a Stile for 10 years. Both have
been great.More important is what you want it to do. Turners rip logs,
some people climb trees etc etc. My needs were at least 50 cc, light
weight (10.6 plus 18" bar and chain), and a dealer that I liked.

> > Not having much experience with chain saws, does the option exist to
> > remove a longer bar (at one's discretion) and put on a shorter bar
> > and chain?

For the 20" bar, I have 3 chains to fit it, all the time. The chains
alone are about $20 each. So adding a different bar length is a $75-100
proposition. Surely, a second bar+chain is cheaper than an additional
saw, but two inches in the 14-16-18 range is not significant.
Once we go to 20 or 24 (especially 24) the unit becomes bar nose heavy,
so setting it down while it's running can get interesting.

> Can't speak to a Stihl which I'm sure is a great saw. I own a Husqvarna
> Rancher 55 and I can tell you it kicks butt and takes names. Its the
> very best I've ever owned and wouldn't buy anything else. Has the 18"
> bar (also available in a 20") and fits in your price range. FWIW, Sears
> carries it, so does Lowe's, along with all the accessories and spare
> bars, chains etc. Prices for spare parts are actually civil too!
>

>
> Grandpa John

A friend of mine works at a tool rental/hardware store, and HE says
that Stihl and Husky have gone the way of John Deere as far as their
"borg models."

Caveat emptor.

-Phil Crow

[email protected] wrote:

> > FWIW, Sears carries it, so does Lowe's, along with all the accessories and spare
> > bars, chains etc. Prices for spare parts are actually civil too!
> >
> > Grandpa John
>
> A friend of mine works at a tool rental/hardware store, and HE says
> that Stihl and Husky have gone the way of John Deere as far as their
> "borg models."
>
> Caveat emptor.
>
> -Phil Crow

I've heard the same thing about Husky from some reputable sources.
Their BORG models have been cheapened in order to meet the BORGS'
profit margins. As most people that frequent this forum know, OEM's
often cheapen their BORG models. And one of the sources I heard that
from was a BORG purchaser.

I don't mean to indict Husky saws...they're considered some of the best
in the world. But if I buy one, it'll be from a local dealer. Each
dollar you spend is a vote, and I vote for keeping helpful dealers
around.

Stihl, however, still sells only from their dealers. You will not find
a Stihl in the States on line...I couldn't even get prices on-line in
order to compare. I really respect that.

I've spoken with a Jonsered dealer nearby, and he said they're going to
have a "push/pull/drag" sale coming in September. Any complete saw,
regardless of condition, will get you a $100 off many new Jonsereds.
The one I've got my eye on, the 2152, normally goes for $489 with an
18" bar. That's out of my range, but if the carcass of my saw will
knock $100 off, well that's a gloat in the making. I like the dealer
and respect his advice, so this may be the way to go.

dadiOH wrote:
> Upscale wrote:
> > "Thomas Kendrick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> >> I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is
> >> too much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt.
> >
> > Not having much experience with chain saws, does the option exist to
> > remove a longer bar (at one's discretion) and put on a shorter bar
> > and chain?
>
> As long as the bar will fit the saw, yes. And vice versa within reason
> (motor capability). My Stihl had a 14" bar but I sometimes run it with a
> 16" bar for bigger stuff. No doubt, the shorter the bar is the more
> convenient the saw is.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
> dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
> ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
> LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
> Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Yet another factor to consider: the shorter the bar, the lower the
likelihood of bending it, when the usual unexpected stuff happens.
Shorter bar is easier to keep true also.

And, if you've a 2' stem to cut and a 16" bar, and you go at it from 2
sides ... Good motivation to learn to cut straight and true.

J

J

In your price range is the Stihl "Farm Boss". I have one and have used
it extensively. Learning how to sharpen a chainsaw chain was a real
godsend though. I use a dremel to do it, takes maybe 5 minutes and
another 5 to file the rakers by hand. I think mine has an 18" bar but
can handle longer if needed.

http://www.stihl.us/chainsaws/comparison.html

I have a stihl and love it.


<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>
> While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need
> professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
> open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:
>
> -- Variable chain oiling. My Crapsman's oiling system consisted of a
> compartment which dropped oil onto the chain. And when the chain
> wasn't moving, and went the saw wasn't running, the oil continued to
> run out. All over the case, all over everything. Piece of shit.
>
> -- User-adjustable carbureutor. I don't want to have to take it to
> *&^%ing Sears to make simple adjustments. Piece of shit.
>
> -- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism. The Crapsman consisted of two
> bolts which could never be tightened enough to keep the bar from moving
> and loosening the chain. Piece of shit.
>
> -- Upgraded crankshaft. I'll be honest with you, I'm not even
> completely sure what this means, but I was told to get it! My
> sharpening guy said "You gotta have a ball-bearing crankshaft. Most
> don't." Umm...I'm not sure how a crankshaft could *not* have ball
> bearings, but then again, my Crapsman probably didn't. Piece of shit.
>
> Price range: $300 - $400.
>
> Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm
> not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.
>
> Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.
>

I've been seeing ads (in USAToday?) from Stihl stating - there's a
reason they're not available in the big box stores.

Are you saying some models are?

Renata


>A friend of mine works at a tool rental/hardware store, and HE says
>that Stihl and Husky have gone the way of John Deere as far as their
>"borg models."
>
>Caveat emptor.
>
>-Phil Crow

I've been a logger for 38 plus years and although i ran jonsreds for
most of those my saw of choice in the later years has gone to husqvarna.
the 455 rancher will do what you want to do and will last for years with
a little care. sells for $339.95 w/ 20" bar and chain at
www.baileys-onlie.com there a great logger supply outfit at a good
price.
ross
www.highislandexport.com

I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is too
much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt. 18"
should be just about right. The MS250 would keep the powerhead around
10 pounds and it will run a 16" or 18" bar.

have to add my vote for a Stihl, love mine

Roy wrote:
> I third it. I Had an 031 that I used for 5-6 cords a year for 7-8 years back in my younger days.
> It never let me down, with a 16" bar it would drop a 32" tree. The perfect saw up until I moved to
> Houston and had it stolen. Mom still has my Dad's 028, and I use it sometimes when I go to visit.
> That saw is at least 20 years old.
>
>
>
> On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 14:55:32 -0400, "Woodhead" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Ditto the Stihl. Tough saw.
>>
>>Jim
>>"James" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>http://www.stihl.us/chainsaws/comparison.html
>>>
>>>I have a stihl and love it.
>>>
>>>
>>><[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>>>>
>>>>While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need
>>>>professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
>>>>open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:
>>>>
>>>>-- Variable chain oiling. My Crapsman's oiling system consisted of a
>>>>compartment which dropped oil onto the chain. And when the chain
>>>>wasn't moving, and went the saw wasn't running, the oil continued to
>>>>run out. All over the case, all over everything. Piece of shit.
>>>>
>>>>-- User-adjustable carbureutor. I don't want to have to take it to
>>>>*&^%ing Sears to make simple adjustments. Piece of shit.
>>>>
>>>>-- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism. The Crapsman consisted of two
>>>>bolts which could never be tightened enough to keep the bar from moving
>>>>and loosening the chain. Piece of shit.
>>>>
>>>>-- Upgraded crankshaft. I'll be honest with you, I'm not even
>>>>completely sure what this means, but I was told to get it! My
>>>>sharpening guy said "You gotta have a ball-bearing crankshaft. Most
>>>>don't." Umm...I'm not sure how a crankshaft could *not* have ball
>>>>bearings, but then again, my Crapsman probably didn't. Piece of shit.
>>>>
>>>>Price range: $300 - $400.
>>>>
>>>>Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm
>>>>not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.
>>>>
>>>>Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>

On 16 Jul 2006 10:46:55 -0700, [email protected] wrote:


>Price range: $300 - $400.

You should be able to get a lot of chainsaw for that money. Stihl or
Husqvarna--it's a coin toss. Pick whichever one has the closest
dealer. I am fortunate enough to have one of each in my town, so I mix
up my choices on two stroke tools.

Jonsered is also supposed to be very good, but unless you live in
logging country, it's going to be hard to find a dealer.

I wouldn't give a tinker's dam for any of the other brands.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.

I have a Stihl. They have a large variety of sizes and bar sizes.
Stihl is considered by many to be the best you can buy. Sales are
tightly controlled through authorized dealers.

On 16 Jul 2006 10:46:55 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>
<snip>
>Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.

<[email protected]> wrote in message
>
I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
> open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:
>

Our local dealer sells Stihl and Husqvarna. He said the Stihl as a slightly
better record for problems, but are good workers.

[email protected] wrote:
> It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times
> shy.
>
> While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need
> professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
> open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:

> -- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism.

Stihl has a real handy system on some models...built in fold down crank, no
tools necessary, works well.
http://www.stihl.us/chainsaws/features.html


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[email protected] wrote in news:1153104171.771204.20490@
75g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

>
> Thomas Kendrick wrote:
>> I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is too
>> much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt.
>
> Intersting to hear you say that. I've never run a 20 for any length of
> time...the only saw I have any real experience with is my (former) 18.
> I always felt comfortable with it...that if I started getting much
> longer it would be more difficult to keep the chain off the ground.
>
> I go snow/winter camping all the time, and I always take the saw to
> make wood-gathering go more quickly. (The shear volume of wood you
> need when the nighttime temps are in the singles is kind of shocking.)
> I'm looking for dry wood, so I'm obviously not felling anything. (Plus
> it's not always that clear what's dead and what's not in
> mid-January...)
>
> I had thought about going with a 20 if the price/specs were in line,
> but you're post kind of confirmed my suspicions. I don't need
> length...I need control. I may even go with a 16 if I get a good deal
> on it.
>
> Thanks for your experience.
>
>

What you need is a good dealer to overcome the 'didn't know thats'. I sure
did. Mine sold me a Stihl, a lot like you're describing. I'm really happy
with it.

Patriarch

On 16 Jul 2006 10:46:55 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>
>While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need
>professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
>open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:
>
>-- Variable chain oiling. My Crapsman's oiling system consisted of a
>compartment which dropped oil onto the chain. And when the chain
>wasn't moving, and went the saw wasn't running, the oil continued to
>run out. All over the case, all over everything. Piece of shit.
>
>-- User-adjustable carbureutor. I don't want to have to take it to
>*&^%ing Sears to make simple adjustments. Piece of shit.
>
>-- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism. The Crapsman consisted of two
>bolts which could never be tightened enough to keep the bar from moving
>and loosening the chain. Piece of shit.
>
>-- Upgraded crankshaft. I'll be honest with you, I'm not even
>completely sure what this means, but I was told to get it! My
>sharpening guy said "You gotta have a ball-bearing crankshaft. Most
>don't." Umm...I'm not sure how a crankshaft could *not* have ball
>bearings, but then again, my Crapsman probably didn't. Piece of shit.
>
>Price range: $300 - $400.
>
>Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm
>not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.
>
>Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.

About a year ago a massive limb feel from a big oak in my yard -
imagine an oak with a base width of almost 7 feet. The *branch* that
fell was 33" in diameter.
Anyway, when I was younger I rode Moto-X and had a Husky so I was dead
set on a Husky for a saw. I got the 357XP and what a saw.....love it.
I would suggest to you the 455 Rancher. I tried this saw in my search
and it is a great saw for the money.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00080MIJI/qid=1153074607/sr=1-2/ref=pd_bbs_2/002-1850987-1986435?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013

Good Luck/Work Safe

I third it. I Had an 031 that I used for 5-6 cords a year for 7-8 years back in my younger days.
It never let me down, with a 16" bar it would drop a 32" tree. The perfect saw up until I moved to
Houston and had it stolen. Mom still has my Dad's 028, and I use it sometimes when I go to visit.
That saw is at least 20 years old.



On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 14:55:32 -0400, "Woodhead" <[email protected]> wrote:

>Ditto the Stihl. Tough saw.
>
>Jim
>"James" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> http://www.stihl.us/chainsaws/comparison.html
>>
>> I have a stihl and love it.
>>
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>>>
>>> While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need
>>> professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
>>> open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:
>>>
>>> -- Variable chain oiling. My Crapsman's oiling system consisted of a
>>> compartment which dropped oil onto the chain. And when the chain
>>> wasn't moving, and went the saw wasn't running, the oil continued to
>>> run out. All over the case, all over everything. Piece of shit.
>>>
>>> -- User-adjustable carbureutor. I don't want to have to take it to
>>> *&^%ing Sears to make simple adjustments. Piece of shit.
>>>
>>> -- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism. The Crapsman consisted of two
>>> bolts which could never be tightened enough to keep the bar from moving
>>> and loosening the chain. Piece of shit.
>>>
>>> -- Upgraded crankshaft. I'll be honest with you, I'm not even
>>> completely sure what this means, but I was told to get it! My
>>> sharpening guy said "You gotta have a ball-bearing crankshaft. Most
>>> don't." Umm...I'm not sure how a crankshaft could *not* have ball
>>> bearings, but then again, my Crapsman probably didn't. Piece of shit.
>>>
>>> Price range: $300 - $400.
>>>
>>> Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm
>>> not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.
>>>
>>> Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.
>>>
>>
>>
>

"Thomas Kendrick" <[email protected]> wrote in message

> I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is too
> much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt.

Not having much experience with chain saws, does the option exist to remove
a longer bar (at one's discretion) and put on a shorter bar and chain?

Ditto the Stihl. Tough saw.

Jim
"James" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.stihl.us/chainsaws/comparison.html
>
> I have a stihl and love it.
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>>
>> While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need
>> professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
>> open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:
>>
>> -- Variable chain oiling. My Crapsman's oiling system consisted of a
>> compartment which dropped oil onto the chain. And when the chain
>> wasn't moving, and went the saw wasn't running, the oil continued to
>> run out. All over the case, all over everything. Piece of shit.
>>
>> -- User-adjustable carbureutor. I don't want to have to take it to
>> *&^%ing Sears to make simple adjustments. Piece of shit.
>>
>> -- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism. The Crapsman consisted of two
>> bolts which could never be tightened enough to keep the bar from moving
>> and loosening the chain. Piece of shit.
>>
>> -- Upgraded crankshaft. I'll be honest with you, I'm not even
>> completely sure what this means, but I was told to get it! My
>> sharpening guy said "You gotta have a ball-bearing crankshaft. Most
>> don't." Umm...I'm not sure how a crankshaft could *not* have ball
>> bearings, but then again, my Crapsman probably didn't. Piece of shit.
>>
>> Price range: $300 - $400.
>>
>> Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm
>> not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.
>>
>> Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.
>>
>
>

Find a repair place close to your home. Find out if the carry parts for a
Husqvarna or a Stihl. You will be happy with either as long as you can get
parts and repairs. I have had my Husqvarna for 7 years and have never needed
a part or repair. I have a service center 3 miles from my house. Last time I
was in the Sears service center I witnessed 3 angry customers in 30 minutes!

AZCRAIG

www.vintagetrailersforsale.com



<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>
> While I want better then homeowner-grade, I don't need
> professional-forester grade, either. I'm thinking Husqvarna, but I'm
> open to suggestions. A couple of things it gots to have:
>
> -- Variable chain oiling. My Crapsman's oiling system consisted of a
> compartment which dropped oil onto the chain. And when the chain
> wasn't moving, and went the saw wasn't running, the oil continued to
> run out. All over the case, all over everything. Piece of shit.
>
> -- User-adjustable carbureutor. I don't want to have to take it to
> *&^%ing Sears to make simple adjustments. Piece of shit.
>
> -- Decent chain-tensioning mechanism. The Crapsman consisted of two
> bolts which could never be tightened enough to keep the bar from moving
> and loosening the chain. Piece of shit.
>
> -- Upgraded crankshaft. I'll be honest with you, I'm not even
> completely sure what this means, but I was told to get it! My
> sharpening guy said "You gotta have a ball-bearing crankshaft. Most
> don't." Umm...I'm not sure how a crankshaft could *not* have ball
> bearings, but then again, my Crapsman probably didn't. Piece of shit.
>
> Price range: $300 - $400.
>
> Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm
> not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.
>
> Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.
>

Upscale wrote:
> "Thomas Kendrick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>> I have an older Stihl with a 20" bar. It's a great saw, but 20" is
>> too much bar most of the time, trying to keep it out of the dirt.
>
> Not having much experience with chain saws, does the option exist to
> remove a longer bar (at one's discretion) and put on a shorter bar
> and chain?

As long as the bar will fit the saw, yes. And vice versa within reason
(motor capability). My Stihl had a 14" bar but I sometimes run it with a
16" bar for bigger stuff. No doubt, the shorter the bar is the more
convenient the saw is.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[email protected] wrote:
> It's time to replace my Crapsman. Once bitten, six or eight times shy.
>
> Price range: $300 - $400.
>
> Bar length: 18". If 18" isn't long enough to cut through it, then I'm
> not man enough to do it myself. Professional time at that point.
>
> Thoughts, comments, and yes, flames welcome.
>

Are you after a saw or just whining about the Craftsman one you have?

Can't speak to a Stihl which I'm sure is a great saw. I own a Husqvarna
Rancher 55 and I can tell you it kicks butt and takes names. Its the
very best I've ever owned and wouldn't buy anything else. Has the 18"
bar (also available in a 20") and fits in your price range. FWIW, Sears
carries it, so does Lowe's, along with all the accessories and spare
bars, chains etc. Prices for spare parts are actually civil too!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AX0XX/002-2472879-9922414?v=glance&n=228013
http://www.epinions.com/Husqvarna_Chain_Saw_Model_55/display_~reviews
http://www.chainsaws4u.com/husqvarnachainsaws.htm
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=frameSet&url=lowes.husqvarna.com/chainsaws.htm

Grandpa John