This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
Thanks for any help - Keith
If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
cabinets.
keef wrote:
> This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
> mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
> an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
> Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
> I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
> what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
>
> Thanks for any help - Keith
If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
cabinets.
keef wrote:
> This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
> mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
> an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
> Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
> I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
> what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
>
> Thanks for any help - Keith
I no, I cen nevur re-member witch spellin two youse. "I jus ain't that
good a speller"
BW
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
> > the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
> > upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
> > butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
> > adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
> > like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
> > cabinets.
> >
>
> Would that be the bit with the long ears and fluffy ball tail?
>
>
> --
> Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Thanks for the information and guidance. The router I am using has had
little use so what you both appear to saying is that there should be no
problem if I use an 18mm bit and I shouldnt have the 2mm or more play -
is that right - if that is the case I am inclined to go buy another and
see what happens. If this does not work try the 12 and 6 method. What
do you think?
Whilst I am here do you have any good links I could follow re Kitchen
work tops - joining at the corners of the room.
Thanks for everyones help
Keith
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
> the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
> upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
> butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
> adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
> like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
> cabinets.
>
>
> keef wrote:
> > This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
> > mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
> > an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
> > Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
> > I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
> > what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
> >
> > Thanks for any help - Keith
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
> the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
> upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
> butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
> adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
> like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
> cabinets.
>
That's the technique I use on all my selves. I rout a 1/4 inch dado and
then a roughly 1/2 inch rabbit. It works really well on plywood, as the
thickness of the sheets vary from batch to batch. Therefore, all the
pieces become interchangable.
Miter bolts.
http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/ProductID/KV0516%20100
keef wrote:
> Thanks for the information and guidance. The router I am using has had
> little use so what you both appear to saying is that there should be no
> problem if I use an 18mm bit and I shouldnt have the 2mm or more play -
> is that right - if that is the case I am inclined to go buy another and
> see what happens. If this does not work try the 12 and 6 method. What
> do you think?
>
> Whilst I am here do you have any good links I could follow re Kitchen
> work tops - joining at the corners of the room.
>
> Thanks for everyones help
>
> Keith
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
> > the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
> > upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
> > butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
> > adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
> > like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
> > cabinets.
> >
> >
> > keef wrote:
> > > This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
> > > mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
> > > an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
> > > Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
> > > I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
> > > what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
> > >
> > > Thanks for any help - Keith
Thanks again - the router should be okish it is sold in England by
Wickes - which is a DIY outlet - I appreciate that it would not be in
same league as others but it should really not be that bad - but who
knows really. I have been looking out for a Dewalt - any
recommendations whilst Im here.
Thanks again
Keith - Just a simple serf in this kingdom
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> Miter bolts.
> http://wwhardware.com/catalog.cfm/ProductID/KV0516%20100
>
>
> keef wrote:
> > Thanks for the information and guidance. The router I am using has had
> > little use so what you both appear to saying is that there should be no
> > problem if I use an 18mm bit and I shouldnt have the 2mm or more play -
> > is that right - if that is the case I am inclined to go buy another and
> > see what happens. If this does not work try the 12 and 6 method. What
> > do you think?
> >
> > Whilst I am here do you have any good links I could follow re Kitchen
> > work tops - joining at the corners of the room.
> >
> > Thanks for everyones help
> >
> > Keith
> > SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> > > If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
> > > the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
> > > upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
> > > butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
> > > adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
> > > like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
> > > cabinets.
> > >
> > >
> > > keef wrote:
> > > > This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
> > > > mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
> > > > an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
> > > > Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
> > > > I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
> > > > what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for any help - Keith
The3rd Earl Of Derby (in
[email protected]) said:
| The quickest way I do it is by using two 5mm aluminium straight
| edges spaced a thou or two less for the desired width then an
| appropriate guide bush attached to the router and guide bush fed
| the router along the straight edges in MDF.
That should work well. Leon devised a most ingenious jig for routing
dados with extreme accuracy. I've posted his photos and a drawing of
my own at the link below.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/dado.html
bf wrote:
> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
>> the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
>> upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
>> butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
>> adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
>> like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
>> cabinets.
>>
>
> That's the technique I use on all my selves. I rout a 1/4 inch dado
> and then a roughly 1/2 inch rabbit. It works really well on plywood,
> as the thickness of the sheets vary from batch to batch. Therefore,
> all the pieces become interchangable.
For gods sake its called a...
Rabbet.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Prometheus wrote:
> On 20 Oct 2006 10:25:03 -0700, "keef" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>> This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves
>> 18 mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have
>> used an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would
>> suggest. Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years
>> ago I believe I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit.
>> Could someone tell me what size I should be buyng when I go to the
>> shops over the weekend
>>
>> Thanks for any help - Keith
>
> One thing I like to do when routing dadoes is to pre-rip each side of
> the dado on the table saw, then use a smaller bit to rout it freehand.
> That way, you know that the dado is straight, (and not messed up
> because of a damaged or warped straightedge) any chance of tear-out is
> eliminated, and the kerf from the saw gives you enough room for error
> to make freehand routing a viable option. Even if you still use a
> straightedge or a table, it's still useful for controlling tearout
> (not a problem in mdf, but I assume you'll be making other projects in
> the future.)
The quickest way I do it is by using two 5mm aluminium straight edges
spaced a thou or two less for the desired width then an appropriate guide
bush attached to the router and guide bush fed the router along the
straight edges in MDF.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
keef wrote:
> Thanks again - the router should be okish it is sold in England by
> Wickes - which is a DIY outlet - I appreciate that it would not be in
> same league as others but it should really not be that bad - but who
> knows really. I have been looking out for a Dewalt - any
> recommendations whilst Im here.
>
> Thanks again
>
There lies your problem then...Wickes own brand. :-(
Any of the De-Walt routers are good enough,preferably the 1/2" collet range
though.
Makita and bosch you should also look at although bosch is within most
peoples budget.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
keef wrote:
> This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
> mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
> an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
> Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I
> believe I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could
> someone tell me what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops
> over the weekend
>
> Thanks for any help - Keith
If you are not getting an 18mm recess in the MDF and the bit is definatly
18mm?this is because there is slight play on the rotor shaft.
Best bet is to aquire a 12mm and route a 12mm recess then carefully route
out just under 6mm recess next to the 12mm one.
Dont go right up to 6mm a fraction before 6mm and the excess can be
sandpapered out as MDF is an easy material to sand.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Morris Dovey wrote:
> The3rd Earl Of Derby (in
> [email protected]) said:
>
>> The quickest way I do it is by using two 5mm aluminium straight
>> edges spaced a thou or two less for the desired width then an
>> appropriate guide bush attached to the router and guide bush fed
>> the router along the straight edges in MDF.
>
> That should work well. Leon devised a most ingenious jig for routing
> dados with extreme accuracy. I've posted his photos and a drawing of
> my own at the link below.
Similair to the Ally one I made except mine is a lot less bulky when stored
or put away.
The Ally jig is 4"wide by 5mm thick and 3' long.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Prometheus wrote:
> On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 17:58:25 -0500, "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> The3rd Earl Of Derby (in
>> [email protected]) said:
>>
>>> The quickest way I do it is by using two 5mm aluminium straight
>>> edges spaced a thou or two less for the desired width then an
>>> appropriate guide bush attached to the router and guide bush fed
>>> the router along the straight edges in MDF.
>>
>> That should work well. Leon devised a most ingenious jig for routing
>> dados with extreme accuracy. I've posted his photos and a drawing of
>> my own at the link below.
>
> Well, there goes my argument for the table saw kerf making sure the
> dado is square to the edge. Nice design, Leon- I might make one of
> those myself.
But there's a flaw in Leons design,anyone spot it?
Sorry Leon.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
> the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
> upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
> butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
> adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
> like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
> cabinets.
>
Would that be the bit with the long ears and fluffy ball tail?
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
keef wrote:
> Thanks for the information and guidance. The router I am using has had
> little use so what you both appear to saying is that there should be
> no problem if I use an 18mm bit and I shouldnt have the 2mm or more
> play - is that right - if that is the case I am inclined to go buy
> another and see what happens. If this does not work try the 12 and 6
> method. What do you think?
>
> Whilst I am here do you have any good links I could follow re Kitchen
> work tops - joining at the corners of the room.
>
> Thanks for everyones help
>
A router can be brand spanking new out the box,but its performance relys on
whether its an expensive one or a cheapo.
If its a cheap one then chances are the internal working parts are of poor
quality.
Whats the router you have?
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 17:58:25 -0500, "Morris Dovey" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The3rd Earl Of Derby (in
>[email protected]) said:
>
>| The quickest way I do it is by using two 5mm aluminium straight
>| edges spaced a thou or two less for the desired width then an
>| appropriate guide bush attached to the router and guide bush fed
>| the router along the straight edges in MDF.
>
>That should work well. Leon devised a most ingenious jig for routing
>dados with extreme accuracy. I've posted his photos and a drawing of
>my own at the link below.
Well, there goes my argument for the table saw kerf making sure the
dado is square to the edge. Nice design, Leon- I might make one of
those myself.
"keef" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
> mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
> an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
> Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
> I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
> what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
Are you using a straight bit or an upcut spiral? If straight, try a spiral.
In my experience straight bits cut a little oversize.
On 20 Oct 2006 10:25:03 -0700, "keef" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves 18
>mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have used
>an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would suggest.
>Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years ago I believe
>I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit. Could someone tell me
>what size I should be buyng when I go to the shops over the weekend
>
>Thanks for any help - Keith
One thing I like to do when routing dadoes is to pre-rip each side of
the dado on the table saw, then use a smaller bit to rout it freehand.
That way, you know that the dado is straight, (and not messed up
because of a damaged or warped straightedge) any chance of tear-out is
eliminated, and the kerf from the saw gives you enough room for error
to make freehand routing a viable option. Even if you still use a
straightedge or a table, it's still useful for controlling tearout
(not a problem in mdf, but I assume you'll be making other projects in
the future.)
On Fri, 20 Oct 2006 22:49:38 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Prometheus wrote:
>> On 20 Oct 2006 10:25:03 -0700, "keef" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> This is an idiots question Im afraid. I want to router some grooves
>>> 18 mm Mdf. for a book shelf - just a narrow one. In the past I have
>>> used an 18 mm router bit and it is never the snug fit logic would
>>> suggest. Not my technique - somewhere in the back of my mind years
>>> ago I believe I heard that you had to use a smaller router bit.
>>> Could someone tell me what size I should be buyng when I go to the
>>> shops over the weekend
>>>
>>> Thanks for any help - Keith
>>
>> One thing I like to do when routing dadoes is to pre-rip each side of
>> the dado on the table saw, then use a smaller bit to rout it freehand.
>> That way, you know that the dado is straight, (and not messed up
>> because of a damaged or warped straightedge) any chance of tear-out is
>> eliminated, and the kerf from the saw gives you enough room for error
>> to make freehand routing a viable option. Even if you still use a
>> straightedge or a table, it's still useful for controlling tearout
>> (not a problem in mdf, but I assume you'll be making other projects in
>> the future.)
>
>The quickest way I do it is by using two 5mm aluminium straight edges
>spaced a thou or two less for the desired width then an appropriate guide
>bush attached to the router and guide bush fed the router along the
>straight edges in MDF.
Sure, that can work fine. It'll surely keep the dado straight- but
it's still useful to pre-cut with the TS (if you're not in a rush) to
eliminate tearout. It also ensures that the dado is square to the
leading edge of the panel (Yes, I know- careful layout will do that as
well.)
I'm not trying to change your mind, of course- half the fun of wood
working is figuring out the best way to do any given thing, and there
are tons of different methods for each task.
SonomaProducts.com wrote:
> I no, I cen nevur re-member witch spellin two youse. "I jus ain't that
> good a speller"
>
> BW
> The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
>> SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>>> If you like extra work but a better finish, then rout a 12mm dado in
>>> the one piece and rout a 6mm rabbit on the edge of the shelf so the
>>> upper edge of the shelf meets the side of the case with a nice clean
>>> butt joint and the 12 mm tounge below fits into the dado. You can
>>> adjust the depth of the rabbit to get the shelf just as snug as you
>>> like in the dado. This is a pretty common technique on CNC built
>>> cabinets.
>>>
>>
>> Would that be the bit with the long ears and fluffy ball tail?
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
Try installing a dictionary to coincide with your newsreader then. :-)
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite