So I've been trying to figure out how the heck to get the same colors as the
stain samples you see at Home Depot. I put my stain on for 15 minutes and
then rubbed off as the directions stated. The result was a light color (this
is on pine) and not dark like the sample at the store. Perplexed I went to
the Net for info. I read a few places that you'll never get your project as
dark as the samples at the store. Now the samples at the store aren't
printed on paper, they're stained on pine and oak. So I asked the question
to myself, "Well the samples at the store are the stain on pine. I have
pine. Why is their pine different than mine?"
After many moons of messing around and then reading Bob Flexner's book I
guess you don't have to put on stain and then rub it off after 15 minutes,
you can just leave it on? Has anyone ever done this? I guess the best method
for this would be to use a paint gun?
I'm trying to match a dining room set I have. You can't really tell the wood
pattern through the stain. It looks like it was heavily stained in red
mahogany and then glazed with black or very dark brown (it's in the recesses
of the wood). It's the typical color you see when you see Asian furniture -
that kinda brownish reddish solid color.
Sam
Yes, how you prepare the wood has a big impact on color. Major reason why
they can be so hard to repair. Sand too fine and the stain won't penetrate.
Most of these stains are meant to penetrate, not lay on the surface. This is
why multiple coats do little except cause adhesion problems with finish.
For greater penetration, wipe the piece(try a sample) with a wet cloth. Pops
the grain open. Pine is a little different than hardwoods but I have a box
stained white from 15 years ago that is as white as any hardwood would get.
M Hamlin
"Jim Mc Namara" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tip on staining pine when trying to match an existing piece:
> Do not sand with paper finer than 100 grit. Keep the grain as open as
> possible.
Tip on staining pine when trying to match an existing piece:
Do not sand with paper finer than 100 grit. Keep the grain as open as
possible.
Jums
Keeper of the namesake!
:-)
"Sam Hopkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> So I've been trying to figure out how the heck to get the same colors as
the
> stain samples you see at Home Depot. I put my stain on for 15 minutes and
> then rubbed off as the directions stated. The result was a light color
(this
> is on pine) and not dark like the sample at the store. Perplexed I went to
> the Net for info. I read a few places that you'll never get your project
as
> dark as the samples at the store. Now the samples at the store aren't
> printed on paper, they're stained on pine and oak. So I asked the question
> to myself, "Well the samples at the store are the stain on pine. I have
> pine. Why is their pine different than mine?"
>
> After many moons of messing around and then reading Bob Flexner's book I
> guess you don't have to put on stain and then rub it off after 15 minutes,
> you can just leave it on? Has anyone ever done this? I guess the best
method
> for this would be to use a paint gun?
>
> I'm trying to match a dining room set I have. You can't really tell the
wood
> pattern through the stain. It looks like it was heavily stained in red
> mahogany and then glazed with black or very dark brown (it's in the
recesses
> of the wood). It's the typical color you see when you see Asian
furniture -
> that kinda brownish reddish solid color.
>
> Sam
>
>
As a matter of fact I found some Zar at my local hardware store and thought
I'd give them a try. So far it looks great on a 8"X6" scrap and gets darker
as I apply more of it.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:W833b.551$Q%[email protected]...
> Pine is a hard wood to stain. Getting it right generally takes more that
it
> does to stain a porous hard wood.
>
> ALSO the quality of stain makes a big difference. Miniwax products
> generally are poor. Try Bartleys or Zar stains.
>
>
>
>
Thanks for the tip. I was sanding with 240 but have since moved down to 120
per the Zars instructuction. I'm going to try 100 and see the results.
Sam
"Jim Mc Namara" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tip on staining pine when trying to match an existing piece:
> Do not sand with paper finer than 100 grit. Keep the grain as open as
> possible.
>
> Jums
> Keeper of the namesake!
>
> :-)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> "Sam Hopkins" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > So I've been trying to figure out how the heck to get the same colors as
> the
> > stain samples you see at Home Depot. I put my stain on for 15 minutes
and
> > then rubbed off as the directions stated. The result was a light color
> (this
> > is on pine) and not dark like the sample at the store. Perplexed I went
to
> > the Net for info. I read a few places that you'll never get your project
> as
> > dark as the samples at the store. Now the samples at the store aren't
> > printed on paper, they're stained on pine and oak. So I asked the
question
> > to myself, "Well the samples at the store are the stain on pine. I have
> > pine. Why is their pine different than mine?"
> >
> > After many moons of messing around and then reading Bob Flexner's book I
> > guess you don't have to put on stain and then rub it off after 15
minutes,
> > you can just leave it on? Has anyone ever done this? I guess the best
> method
> > for this would be to use a paint gun?
> >
> > I'm trying to match a dining room set I have. You can't really tell the
> wood
> > pattern through the stain. It looks like it was heavily stained in red
> > mahogany and then glazed with black or very dark brown (it's in the
> recesses
> > of the wood). It's the typical color you see when you see Asian
> furniture -
> > that kinda brownish reddish solid color.
> >
> > Sam
> >
> >
>
>