My cast iron tablesaw is in need of some serious refinishing. Three years
of using it as a workbench has taken it's toll -scratches, stains, etc. I
know I can wax and polish it so that everything slides, but I'm wondering
what type of abrasive will put a nice finish on it. Anyone done a refinish
with good results?
TIA
Dennis
I perhaps am always the . .odd duck in the flock. In another life I use
some very precise steel forms and years ago Fred at The Japan Woodworker
introduced me to Camellia Oil - it is my understanding that the Japanese use
it on their folded steel swords. It work great on my special forms and Hock
plane blades and it doesn't have the adverse effect or the potential that
silicon (wd40 . .ect)does. On the porous casting of a table saw top it works
great. Fred now sells an applicator for it - but if you have a short piece
of bamboo laying around in the shop you can roll up a course cotton a
diameter to than can be stuffed into the hollow of the bamboo and then
saturate it with the oil. Then every so often you just brush the applicator
over the bare surfaces. Eventually after years the surface will take on a
patina all its own where the oil has been drawn into the cast iron. . . .. .
.just another option
Wayne
"Newshound" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My cast iron tablesaw is in need of some serious refinishing. Three years
> of using it as a workbench has taken it's toll -scratches, stains, etc. I
> know I can wax and polish it so that everything slides, but I'm wondering
> what type of abrasive will put a nice finish on it. Anyone done a
refinish
> with good results?
>
> TIA
>
> Dennis
>
>
Without knowing exactly how bad your table is, I can only recommend
what I do on my saw every year or two (you know, rust marks from the
"spilt" beer bottles and such...).
:-)
I use wet/dry sandpaper starting at 320 and spraying with
WD-40 with each application. Work my way up to 1200 or so - as shiny &
slick as you want. Get this stuff from Pep-Boys in the auto finishing
area. They have up to 3000 or 4000 I think. Takes a little time, but
works great!
I don't like waxing/silicon spray because it prevents the stain from
penetrating and may cause blotching. Maybe just in the miter slot.
My 2ç.
Lou
In article <[email protected]>, Swingman
<[email protected]> wrote:
> "Newshound" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My cast iron tablesaw is in need of some serious refinishing. Three years
> > of using it as a workbench has taken it's toll -scratches, stains, etc. I
> > know I can wax and polish it so that everything slides, but I'm wondering
> > what type of abrasive will put a nice finish on it. Anyone done a
> refinish
> > with good results?
>
> "Sandflex" blocks, a rubberized abrasive, works real well on stains and
> rust... it's a brand name and you can usually get them at Rockler or
> WoodCraft. They can be used dry, or with a lubricant. So far I've yet to
> find anything that works better with less effort.
>
> That said, any effort to take anything but miniscule scratches out may leave
> you with and undesirable, non-flat top, so go carefully.
Wayne Cattanach wrote:
> I perhaps am always the . .odd duck in the flock. In another life I use
> some very precise steel forms and years ago Fred at The Japan Woodworker
> introduced me to Camellia Oil - it is my understanding that the Japanese use
> it on their folded steel swords. It work great on my special forms and Hock
> plane blades and it doesn't have the adverse effect or the potential that
> silicon (wd40 . .ect)does. On the porous casting of a table saw top it works
> great. Fred now sells an applicator for it - but if you have a short piece
> of bamboo laying around in the shop you can roll up a course cotton a
> diameter to than can be stuffed into the hollow of the bamboo and then
> saturate it with the oil. Then every so often you just brush the applicator
> over the bare surfaces. Eventually after years the surface will take on a
> patina all its own where the oil has been drawn into the cast iron. . . .. .
> .just another option
>
> Wayne
Camellia oil is indeed what is used on Japanese swords. I got my first bottle of
it in my first sword kit and since then I've been buying it in pints for use on
other tools. It's a beautiful, light oil that smells good too.
Japan Woodworker carries it, and a believe places like Highland Hardware and
Woodcraft do also.
--RC
--RC
>
>
> "Newshound" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My cast iron tablesaw is in need of some serious refinishing. Three years
> > of using it as a workbench has taken it's toll -scratches, stains, etc. I
> > know I can wax and polish it so that everything slides, but I'm wondering
> > what type of abrasive will put a nice finish on it. Anyone done a
> refinish
> > with good results?
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 16:12:01 GMT, mac davis <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> I think, therefor I am... or at least I think that I am?
>
Renee Decartes walked into a bar. The bartender says, "Mr. Decartes,
would you like a drink?"
Decartes said, "I think not," and he disappeared.
"loutent" wrote in message
>
> I don't like waxing/silicon spray because it prevents the stain from
> penetrating and may cause blotching. Maybe just in the miter slot.
You don't really want silicon _anywhere_ on your table saw top.
It's not "blotching" that silicon causes, but fisheye, which is caused by
the silicon reducing the surface tension of the sealer coat over the
contaminated area, resulting in a round crater(s) in the finish that
resembles, what else ... a fisheye. ;)
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
"Newshound" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My cast iron tablesaw is in need of some serious refinishing. Three years
> of using it as a workbench has taken it's toll -scratches, stains, etc. I
> know I can wax and polish it so that everything slides, but I'm wondering
> what type of abrasive will put a nice finish on it. Anyone done a
refinish
> with good results?
"Sandflex" blocks, a rubberized abrasive, works real well on stains and
rust... it's a brand name and you can usually get them at Rockler or
WoodCraft. They can be used dry, or with a lubricant. So far I've yet to
find anything that works better with less effort.
That said, any effort to take anything but miniscule scratches out may leave
you with and undesirable, non-flat top, so go carefully.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 7/10/04
"Wayne Cattanach" <[email protected]> wrote...
> ... and it doesn't have the adverse effect or the potential that
> silicon (wd40 . .ect)does.
Are you implying that WD-40 contains silicone? Their web-site explicitly
disclaims that:
http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html
Or is there another reason why WD-40 might have an adverse effect if used on
tools that contact wood?
/rick.
In article <[email protected]>,
mac davis <[email protected]> wrote:
>
[[.. munch ..]]
>
>
>I think, therefor I am... or at least I think that I am?
>
Often rendered as:
"I think I think, therefore I am -- I think!"
Andy Dingley wrote:
>
> Take a barbecue lantern on a pole (cheapest UK source of thick
> bamboo), saw off a few inches around a septum and make yourself an oil
> pot, just like you describe. Mine lives on the benchtop and I use it a
> lot. If you try to buy thick bamboo from a garden centre, they break
> out the internal septa before shipping it, supposedly to avoid water
> pooling and possible mosquito transmission.
>
I knew the gardens here would be useful for something one day, I'll take
me saw and get some fresh......
Buy a can of Slip-It.
"mac davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 12:28:17 -0400, "RickS" <rick --dot-- s --at--
> comcast.net> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Wayne Cattanach" <[email protected]> wrote...
> >
> >> ... and it doesn't have the adverse effect or the potential that
> >> silicon (wd40 . .ect)does.
> >
> >Are you implying that WD-40 contains silicone? Their web-site explicitly
> >disclaims that:
> > http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html
> >
> >Or is there another reason why WD-40 might have an adverse effect if used
on
> >tools that contact wood?
> >
> >/rick.
> >
> WD-40 is a solvent and penetrator that contains a small percentage of
> lubricant... which of the above would you want on your wood projects?
>
>
>
>
> I think, therefor I am... or at least I think that I am?
>
>
>
> Mac
On Fri, 01 Oct 2004 15:20:27 +0200, Juergen Hannappel
<[email protected]> wrote:
>how does one recognize the true camelia oil?
If it's for sale, it's not the genune stuff.
On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 23:51:44 -0400, "Wayne Cattanach"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I perhaps am always the . .odd duck in the flock. In another life I use
>some very precise steel forms and years ago Fred at The Japan Woodworker
>introduced me to Camellia Oil - it is my understanding that the Japanese use
>it on their folded steel swords.
Don't trust "Camellia Oil" on a sword. Modern camellia oil is a fish
oil, with camellia essence added. It's not bad for woodworking tools,
I use a lot of it myself. It's not "archival grade" for fine sword
use though and it won't last for really long term storage without
oxidising.
It's a good oil for hot-oil bluing of steels - as are most fish oils,
and especially whale oils.
Genuine camellia oil is available (Chinese herbalists, traditional
Japanese hairdressers), but the pH looks suspect for metal
preservation.
Take a barbecue lantern on a pole (cheapest UK source of thick
bamboo), saw off a few inches around a septum and make yourself an oil
pot, just like you describe. Mine lives on the benchtop and I use it a
lot. If you try to buy thick bamboo from a garden centre, they break
out the internal septa before shipping it, supposedly to avoid water
pooling and possible mosquito transmission.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Thu, 30 Sep 2004 22:46:53 GMT, "Newshound" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>My cast iron tablesaw is in need of some serious refinishing. Three years
>of using it as a workbench has taken it's toll -scratches, stains, etc. I
>know I can wax and polish it so that everything slides, but I'm wondering
>what type of abrasive will put a nice finish on it. Anyone done a refinish
>with good results?
Scotch Brite pads under the velcro pad of a ROS.
Barry
On Fri, 1 Oct 2004 12:28:17 -0400, "RickS" <rick --dot-- s --at--
comcast.net> wrote:
>
>"Wayne Cattanach" <[email protected]> wrote...
>
>> ... and it doesn't have the adverse effect or the potential that
>> silicon (wd40 . .ect)does.
>
>Are you implying that WD-40 contains silicone? Their web-site explicitly
>disclaims that:
> http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html
>
>Or is there another reason why WD-40 might have an adverse effect if used on
>tools that contact wood?
>
>/rick.
>
WD-40 is a solvent and penetrator that contains a small percentage of
lubricant... which of the above would you want on your wood projects?
I think, therefor I am... or at least I think that I am?
Mac
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> writes:
[...]
>
> Don't trust "Camellia Oil" on a sword. Modern camellia oil is a fish
> oil, with camellia essence added. It's not bad for woodworking tools,
how does one recognize the true camelia oil? From the advertisement
of the stuff sold by Dick i assume that that is the true stuff.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
WD-40 does NOT contain silicone.
"Wayne Cattanach" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I perhaps am always the . .odd duck in the flock. In another life I use
> some very precise steel forms and years ago Fred at The Japan Woodworker
> introduced me to Camellia Oil - it is my understanding that the Japanese
use
> it on their folded steel swords. It work great on my special forms and
Hock
> plane blades and it doesn't have the adverse effect or the potential that
> silicon (wd40 . .ect)does. On the porous casting of a table saw top it
works
> great. Fred now sells an applicator for it - but if you have a short piece
> of bamboo laying around in the shop you can roll up a course cotton a
> diameter to than can be stuffed into the hollow of the bamboo and then
> saturate it with the oil. Then every so often you just brush the
applicator
> over the bare surfaces. Eventually after years the surface will take on a
> patina all its own where the oil has been drawn into the cast iron. . . ..
.
> .just another option
>
> Wayne
>
>
>
> "Newshound" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > My cast iron tablesaw is in need of some serious refinishing. Three
years
> > of using it as a workbench has taken it's toll -scratches, stains, etc.
I
> > know I can wax and polish it so that everything slides, but I'm
wondering
> > what type of abrasive will put a nice finish on it. Anyone done a
> refinish
> > with good results?
> >
> > TIA
> >
> > Dennis
> >
> >
>
>