Restoring Wooden Windows

John Emmons wrote:
> Sounds like you've got the basic idea down. I have a 1927 built
bungalow
> with some very nice wooden double hung sash windows. We've taken just
about
> all of them out and restored/repainted them. You'll want to take care
of any
> rotten wood with some sort of epoxy filler and as you mentioned,a
hardener.
>
> Make sure the painter uses a good quality primer as well as a good
quality
> exterior paint. There's a reason why paint at Home Depot and the like
is
> cheaply priced, it's thinner than premium quality paint sold thru
paint
> dealers. The extra cost is minimal compared to the cost of repainting
again
> in a year or two.
>
> You'll want the glazing compound replaced while you're at it.
>
> John Emmons
>
> "Elise" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Hello
> >
> > I'm new to this forum so I hope that I have come to the right
place.
> > Frankly, I don't know where else to ask.
> >
> > We have a 1930s semi with original wooden bay and oriel windows
with
> > pretty stained glass leaded lights. I am loathed to change them to
uPVC
> > double glazing as most of our street has done, besides we can't
afford
> > it anyway.
> >
> > I'd love to restore them but am unsure who to ask or if it's
something
> > I can do myself. The wood on the large bays is still pretty sound
but
> > needs attention soon (this year). The wood on the small oriel
window is
> > rotten on the bottom part (sill?)
> >
> > I haven't done anything like this before but as far as I have been
able
> > to gather, I need to burn the paint off, apply some sort of wood
> > hardener and then protect with coats of paint.
> >
> > I am very much doubtful if I can do the work myself, but I'd like
to
> > know what needs to be done and who would be able to do the work so
that
> > I can check that the right steps are being taken when the work is
> > carried out.
> >
> > Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any replies.
> > Elise
> >
> >
> > --
> > Elise

I, too have an old '30's house with double hung windows. If wood is
rotten at the bottoms, you can make new bottoms, (requiring the window
to be dis-asembled. Most have nails in them & not just glue) or simply
cut off the rotted wood and add new - don't forget the bevel-(unless
the whole bottom is rotted). If the botoms are only loose & the window
is coming apart, you can drill holes in the sides or bottoms & glue in
dowels.(titebondII works well for this) While you have the windows
out, you may as well replace the sash ropes-- sash cord is still sold--
found some at Lowes & also Foxworth Galbrith in N Texas. Put a drop or
two of oil on the sash rope bearing that is in the window casing-- WD
40 will work if you cannot get your oil can spout into the opening. Try
not to spray the part where the rope rides inside the pully-- Not sure
what effect the oil or WD will have on the rope. Make sure you use a
good quality primer & good quality paint. also prime & paint the new
window putty after a couple of days as it says on the can. I wouldn't
recommend caulk, as it's the devil to remove if you ever have a piece
of glass to replace.

Phil

Elise wrote:
>
...regarding wooden windows w/ some rot damage...

If the wood disintegration is not real bad (and it can look pretty bad
but still have a good amount of strength) the wood hardeners for "punky"
places and the two-part epoxies are a definite possibility. With
moderate damage, these can be done by a moderately handy individual w/ a
modicum of care and patience. The product I have used is ...oh, phoo, I
can't think of the actual brand name just now...oh, here it comes -- PC
Woody is the brand. They have a full line of restoration products you
can find on the web or perhaps locally (at least some Ace Hardware
outlets are distributors in at least small quantities).

I've used it for a several on the old barn restoration and they're
holding up well after several years...

To make new pieces is also doable but will almost certainly require some
help. One difficulty w/ many older windows w/ current window sash
router bit combo sets is that they (the old windows) use a full length
tenon rather than the stub tenon these sets are only capable of
cutting--the one set I do know of is one from CMT if you want to try
that route.

Fly-by-Night CC wrote:
>
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Elise <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I'd love to restore them but am unsure who to ask or if it's something
> > I can do myself. The wood on the large bays is still pretty sound but
> > needs attention soon (this year). The wood on the small oriel window is
> > rotten on the bottom part (sill?)
>
> Perhaps before you even look to repair the windows you should do some
> detective work to determine the cause of the deterioration so that your
> repairs don't end up the same way. Most wood problems are moisture
> caused - either direct contact with outside moisture that does not run
> off properly or condensation accumulating on the inside of the pane and
> collecting at the bottom. Either way you really need to address this
> aspect of the repair in conjunction with the replacement of deteriorated
> materials.
>

Good point to raise, but w/ a 70 year old house, it's probably just age
related owing to neglect primarily over the years...but never hurts to
look for problems...

BTW, Abatron is another supplier of restoration materials...more pricey
than the PC Woody brand which bottom line why I went w/ it...

Well, just be very thankful that you only have to restore Wooden Windows
instead of Windows XP or Windows 2000.

Mullets are ever so much easier (and nicer) to deal with than
.<whatever-crap-MegaSloth-came-up-with-this-week>! At least you can caulk a
minor "goof" and paint over and know that the whole danged Window System
will still be up and running a year from now > :-) <

--
Enjoy life and *do* well by it
-- it might well be the only chance you get :-)

Steve,
http://www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/

"John Emmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Sounds like you've got the basic idea down. I have a 1927 built bungalow
> with some very nice wooden double hung sash windows. We've taken just
> about
> all of them out and restored/repainted them. You'll want to take care of
> any
> rotten wood with some sort of epoxy filler and as you mentioned,a
> hardener.
>
> Make sure the painter uses a good quality primer as well as a good quality
> exterior paint. There's a reason why paint at Home Depot and the like is
> cheaply priced, it's thinner than premium quality paint sold thru paint
> dealers. The extra cost is minimal compared to the cost of repainting
> again
> in a year or two.
>
> You'll want the glazing compound replaced while you're at it.
>
> John Emmons
>
> "Elise" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Hello
>>
>> I'm new to this forum so I hope that I have come to the right place.
>> Frankly, I don't know where else to ask.
>>
>> We have a 1930s semi with original wooden bay and oriel windows with
>> pretty stained glass leaded lights. I am loathed to change them to uPVC
>> double glazing as most of our street has done, besides we can't afford
>> it anyway.
>>
>> I'd love to restore them but am unsure who to ask or if it's something
>> I can do myself. The wood on the large bays is still pretty sound but
>> needs attention soon (this year). The wood on the small oriel window is
>> rotten on the bottom part (sill?)
>>
>> I haven't done anything like this before but as far as I have been able
>> to gather, I need to burn the paint off, apply some sort of wood
>> hardener and then protect with coats of paint.
>>
>> I am very much doubtful if I can do the work myself, but I'd like to
>> know what needs to be done and who would be able to do the work so that
>> I can check that the right steps are being taken when the work is
>> carried out.
>>
>> Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any replies.
>> Elise
>>
>>
>> --
>> Elise
>
>

Soooorrrrry, Moooose. I do apologize to you --- but .... Well, actually No.

I threw in a "wise ass remark" about two (2) MegaSloth NON-Operating
Systems.
(I figure I'm entitled since I taught college courses about those abysmal
things for far too many years -- from the Unix-ripoff DOS all the way
through Whinnnnnnney-Dozzzzzzzze 9xxxxxxxxxx and N(o)T.)

If you can't handle the PUNishment, well, then ... shucks. I guess it's SO
WHAT ??????????????? Grant me the space to make the pun or save yourself a
lot of re-boot time and limp to linux (and GREP this !) -- or Move to Mac.

Now mind you, I Really AM sorry, but both of those OSs actually Work:
Whinnnnnnney-Dozzzzzzzze Doesn't (work as well).

No-Doze (on the other hand) does.

--
Enjoy life and *do* well by it
-- it might well be the only chance you get :-)

Steve,
http://www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/

"Bullwinkle J. Moose" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:7U%Cd.26009$3m6.21496@attbi_s51...
> You just had to throw in a wise ass remark about a Microsoft operating
> system, didn't you. Like there ain't enough going on in another supposedly
> "woodworking" thread. Why do people have to pick on anybody else's O/S,
> whatever it is??? It works for the person using it, let it be!
>
> "Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Well, just be very thankful that you only have to restore Wooden Windows
>> instead of Windows XP or Windows 2000.
>>
>> Mullets are ever so much easier (and nicer) to deal with than
>> .<whatever-crap-MegaSloth-came-up-with-this-week>! At least you can
>> caulk
> a
>> minor "goof" and paint over and know that the whole danged Window System
>> will still be up and running a year from now > :-) <
>>
>> --
>> Enjoy life and *do* well by it
>> -- it might well be the only chance you get :-)
>>
>> Steve,
>> http://www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
>>
>> "John Emmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > Sounds like you've got the basic idea down. I have a 1927 built
>> > bungalow
>> > with some very nice wooden double hung sash windows. We've taken just
>> > about
>> > all of them out and restored/repainted them. You'll want to take care
>> > of
>> > any
>> > rotten wood with some sort of epoxy filler and as you mentioned,a
>> > hardener.
>> >
>> > Make sure the painter uses a good quality primer as well as a good
> quality
>> > exterior paint. There's a reason why paint at Home Depot and the like
>> > is
>> > cheaply priced, it's thinner than premium quality paint sold thru paint
>> > dealers. The extra cost is minimal compared to the cost of repainting
>> > again
>> > in a year or two.
>> >
>> > You'll want the glazing compound replaced while you're at it.
>> >
>> > John Emmons
>> >
>> > "Elise" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > news:[email protected]...
>> >>
>> >> Hello
>> >>
>> >> I'm new to this forum so I hope that I have come to the right place.
>> >> Frankly, I don't know where else to ask.
>> >>
>> >> We have a 1930s semi with original wooden bay and oriel windows with
>> >> pretty stained glass leaded lights. I am loathed to change them to
>> >> uPVC
>> >> double glazing as most of our street has done, besides we can't afford
>> >> it anyway.
>> >>
>> >> I'd love to restore them but am unsure who to ask or if it's something
>> >> I can do myself. The wood on the large bays is still pretty sound but
>> >> needs attention soon (this year). The wood on the small oriel window
>> >> is
>> >> rotten on the bottom part (sill?)
>> >>
>> >> I haven't done anything like this before but as far as I have been
>> >> able
>> >> to gather, I need to burn the paint off, apply some sort of wood
>> >> hardener and then protect with coats of paint.
>> >>
>> >> I am very much doubtful if I can do the work myself, but I'd like to
>> >> know what needs to be done and who would be able to do the work so
>> >> that
>> >> I can check that the right steps are being taken when the work is
>> >> carried out.
>> >>
>> >> Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any replies.
>> >> Elise
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> --
>> >> Elise
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

You just had to throw in a wise ass remark about a Microsoft operating
system, didn't you. Like there ain't enough going on in another supposedly
"woodworking" thread. Why do people have to pick on anybody else's O/S,
whatever it is??? It works for the person using it, let it be!

"Steve" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Well, just be very thankful that you only have to restore Wooden Windows
> instead of Windows XP or Windows 2000.
>
> Mullets are ever so much easier (and nicer) to deal with than
> .<whatever-crap-MegaSloth-came-up-with-this-week>! At least you can caulk
a
> minor "goof" and paint over and know that the whole danged Window System
> will still be up and running a year from now > :-) <
>
> --
> Enjoy life and *do* well by it
> -- it might well be the only chance you get :-)
>
> Steve,
> http://www.ApacheTrail.com/ww/
>
> "John Emmons" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Sounds like you've got the basic idea down. I have a 1927 built bungalow
> > with some very nice wooden double hung sash windows. We've taken just
> > about
> > all of them out and restored/repainted them. You'll want to take care of
> > any
> > rotten wood with some sort of epoxy filler and as you mentioned,a
> > hardener.
> >
> > Make sure the painter uses a good quality primer as well as a good
quality
> > exterior paint. There's a reason why paint at Home Depot and the like is
> > cheaply priced, it's thinner than premium quality paint sold thru paint
> > dealers. The extra cost is minimal compared to the cost of repainting
> > again
> > in a year or two.
> >
> > You'll want the glazing compound replaced while you're at it.
> >
> > John Emmons
> >
> > "Elise" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> Hello
> >>
> >> I'm new to this forum so I hope that I have come to the right place.
> >> Frankly, I don't know where else to ask.
> >>
> >> We have a 1930s semi with original wooden bay and oriel windows with
> >> pretty stained glass leaded lights. I am loathed to change them to uPVC
> >> double glazing as most of our street has done, besides we can't afford
> >> it anyway.
> >>
> >> I'd love to restore them but am unsure who to ask or if it's something
> >> I can do myself. The wood on the large bays is still pretty sound but
> >> needs attention soon (this year). The wood on the small oriel window is
> >> rotten on the bottom part (sill?)
> >>
> >> I haven't done anything like this before but as far as I have been able
> >> to gather, I need to burn the paint off, apply some sort of wood
> >> hardener and then protect with coats of paint.
> >>
> >> I am very much doubtful if I can do the work myself, but I'd like to
> >> know what needs to be done and who would be able to do the work so that
> >> I can check that the right steps are being taken when the work is
> >> carried out.
> >>
> >> Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any replies.
> >> Elise
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Elise
> >
> >
>
>

Sounds like you've got the basic idea down. I have a 1927 built bungalow
with some very nice wooden double hung sash windows. We've taken just about
all of them out and restored/repainted them. You'll want to take care of any
rotten wood with some sort of epoxy filler and as you mentioned,a hardener.

Make sure the painter uses a good quality primer as well as a good quality
exterior paint. There's a reason why paint at Home Depot and the like is
cheaply priced, it's thinner than premium quality paint sold thru paint
dealers. The extra cost is minimal compared to the cost of repainting again
in a year or two.

You'll want the glazing compound replaced while you're at it.

John Emmons

"Elise" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Hello
>
> I'm new to this forum so I hope that I have come to the right place.
> Frankly, I don't know where else to ask.
>
> We have a 1930s semi with original wooden bay and oriel windows with
> pretty stained glass leaded lights. I am loathed to change them to uPVC
> double glazing as most of our street has done, besides we can't afford
> it anyway.
>
> I'd love to restore them but am unsure who to ask or if it's something
> I can do myself. The wood on the large bays is still pretty sound but
> needs attention soon (this year). The wood on the small oriel window is
> rotten on the bottom part (sill?)
>
> I haven't done anything like this before but as far as I have been able
> to gather, I need to burn the paint off, apply some sort of wood
> hardener and then protect with coats of paint.
>
> I am very much doubtful if I can do the work myself, but I'd like to
> know what needs to be done and who would be able to do the work so that
> I can check that the right steps are being taken when the work is
> carried out.
>
> Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance for any replies.
> Elise
>
>
> --
> Elise

In article <[email protected]>,
Elise <[email protected]> wrote:

> I'd love to restore them but am unsure who to ask or if it's something
> I can do myself. The wood on the large bays is still pretty sound but
> needs attention soon (this year). The wood on the small oriel window is
> rotten on the bottom part (sill?)

Perhaps before you even look to repair the windows you should do some
detective work to determine the cause of the deterioration so that your
repairs don't end up the same way. Most wood problems are moisture
caused - either direct contact with outside moisture that does not run
off properly or condensation accumulating on the inside of the pane and
collecting at the bottom. Either way you really need to address this
aspect of the repair in conjunction with the replacement of deteriorated
materials.

--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
____

"Sure we'll have fascism in America, but it'll come disguised
as 100% Americanism." -- Huey P. Long