OK - Thanks all who have previously responded to my posts as I seek advice
on expanding my woodworking skills.
I think I may have made a screw-up. It could be easy to fix or a real pain,
causing me to almost start from scratch.
Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is 1/2"
larger than the base on all sides.
My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
this....
(This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
look at it.)
_____ _____
| |___________________________| |
| |___________________________ |
|_____| |_____|
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
|| ||
_____ _____
| |___________________________| |
| |___________________________ |
|_____| |_____|
For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides have
a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise into the
legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one coat of
BLO. The thing looks really nice.
Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on the
legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
My options:
1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
hold in the end grain for long)
2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
but nothing jumped out at me so far)
3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs (I
am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have holding
issues (Remember I already began finishing))
5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
Thanks in advance!!!
-B
>>OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
Thinking of my piano bench at home, the hingers are on the center rail.
The hinges are NOT mortised, so the top stays perhaps 3/16" higher
than the base, giving it enough clearance to lift up. There is a
rubber pad on each corner of the top and that seems to be where the
weight is displaced. Remember, you don't need to open this thing 180
degrees. In fact, most benches have a lit stop attached and the lit
only opens perhaps 60 degrees.
But if you can't do that...
What about barrel hinges? They give clearance.
I'm not up on my hardware availablility, but what if you thought of
this a different way... What if, instead of the top hinging up, it was
more of a swivel?
So looking at your top view diagram, if the piano was to the left of
the bench, the swivel point would be in the lower right. Or maybe
just a dowel at each corner and the top just lifts off.
You could still hinge the tops of the legs, and have only the hinge
barrels showing,and under the lip as well. Mortice the top and the
legs. The top will only open slightly less than 90 degrees, but it's
sufficient. As to the grain problem, you could route or drill a pocket
or hole in the tops of the legs to glue in a cross grain insert. Some
people do this when screwing to MDF, works great.
BTW, I grew up with a concert pianist, and every few years we were
fixing the bench, as there are a lot of lateral forces applied when the
user slides onto and off the bench. I hope you have tight MT joints!
Brikp wrote:
> Yes, the antique original was done that way and I was planning the
same. I
> already have the rubber pads. I still do not think that will give me
enough
> clearance to open it more than about 30 degrees. 30 degrees is a
guess, I
> may have to try and see. I was hoping for 90 Deg or even 100-110. I
would
> thing the swivel would be difficult and require some very heavy
hardware to
> properly support it. I am thinking about the lift off option as
others have
> suggested it as well.
FWIW, I measured the opening in my piano bench and full open is 60
degree from horizontal.
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 11:27:43 -0500, "Brikp" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>
>For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides have
>a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise into the
>legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one coat of
>BLO. The thing looks really nice.
>
>Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on the
>legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
>
>OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>My options:
>1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
>hold in the end grain for long)
>2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
>but nothing jumped out at me so far)
>3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs (I
>am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
>4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have holding
>issues (Remember I already began finishing))
Mortise a piece in so it would have fresh wood to glue to.
>5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
>
>Thanks in advance!!!
More options:
6) Rabbet the top of the two legs 1/2" x 1/2" x leg width.
7) Use a deeper hinge and cut half the depth off the outside piece
so it overhangs the skirt, providing the depth needed.
(see half-ascii art below)
8) Miter both the top (seat) and the legs so they clear each other.
This could be done only at the legs or full width of the top.
9) Use both a longer hinge -and- mitering to achieve the clearance.
---------------
| 0 0 | top/seat half
===============
| 0 0 | overhang
| |--------------
| 0 | skirt half of the hinge
|-------------|--------------
==========================================================
CAUTION: Do not use remaining fingers as pushsticks!
==========================================================
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
Thanks for your fast reply...
Agreed BUT....
===========TOP IS HERE===============
O---------------------
\---X-----| S
| I
| D
E
The length of X in the above drawing will be the issue. It will need to be
3/8"+ wider than the skirt board thickness. I may be able to fabricate
something but the thought of starting with a strap hinge or something and
beating it into submission doesn't sound like the right way to go for a
piece of fine furniture.
-B
"d" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Without actually looking at a hardware catalog... I would try to find
> an offset hinge like they use for cabinet doors... (woohoo, a chance
> for some ascii art)
>
> ===========TOP IS HERE===============
> O---------------------
> \---------| S
> | I
> | D
> E
>
> -David
>
Thanks for your reply. I hadn't thought of not hinging it. The bracket may
be a good idea. The skirt sides do have a decorative profile, I could match
that on my bump out and make it look like it was supposed to be that way.
"Stephen M" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Option 6.
>
> No hinges. Just install some cleats on the underside of the seat so that
> the
> seat mates seturely to the bottom.
>
> How much bigger is the seat than the rectangle formed by the outer corners
> of the legs? The strip idea might be fine of it is well-hidden beneath the
> overhang of the seat. Holding should not be a problem if you scrape off
> the
> finish exposing virgin wood for gluing. If you did the finish once, you
> can
> replicate it for the strip.
>
> Option 7.
>
> Modified strip idea... Make a bracket or some type of bump-out to handle
> the
> extra 3/8", but do it in an explicit, obvious, orinimental and artistic
> way
> (e.g "I meant to do that"). This may require matching ornimental
> whatevers
> on the non-hinge side.
>
>
> -Steve
>
> "Brikp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> OK - Thanks all who have previously responded to my posts as I seek
>> advice
>> on expanding my woodworking skills.
>>
>> I think I may have made a screw-up. It could be easy to fix or a real
> pain,
>> causing me to almost start from scratch.
>>
>> Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
>> finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is
> 1/2"
>> larger than the base on all sides.
>>
>> My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
>>
>> Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
>> this....
>> (This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
>> look at it.)
>>
>> _____ _____
>> | |___________________________| |
>> | |___________________________ |
>> |_____| |_____|
>> || ||
>> || ||
>> || ||
>> || ||
>> || ||
>> || ||
>> _____ _____
>> | |___________________________| |
>> | |___________________________ |
>> |_____| |_____|
>>
>> For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides
> have
>> a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise into
>> the
>> legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one coat of
>> BLO. The thing looks really nice.
>>
>> Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on
> the
>> legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
>>
>> OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>>
>> My options:
>> 1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
>> hold in the end grain for long)
>> 2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
>> but nothing jumped out at me so far)
>> 3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs
>> (I
>> am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
>> 4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have
> holding
>> issues (Remember I already began finishing))
>> 5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
>>
>> Thanks in advance!!!
>>
>> -B
>>
>>
>
>
Yes, the antique original was done that way and I was planning the same. I
already have the rubber pads. I still do not think that will give me enough
clearance to open it more than about 30 degrees. 30 degrees is a guess, I
may have to try and see. I was hoping for 90 Deg or even 100-110. I would
thing the swivel would be difficult and require some very heavy hardware to
properly support it. I am thinking about the lift off option as others have
suggested it as well.
Thanks for your reply...
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>>OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>
> Thinking of my piano bench at home, the hingers are on the center rail.
> The hinges are NOT mortised, so the top stays perhaps 3/16" higher
> than the base, giving it enough clearance to lift up. There is a
> rubber pad on each corner of the top and that seems to be where the
> weight is displaced. Remember, you don't need to open this thing 180
> degrees. In fact, most benches have a lit stop attached and the lit
> only opens perhaps 60 degrees.
>
> But if you can't do that...
>
> What about barrel hinges? They give clearance.
>
> I'm not up on my hardware availablility, but what if you thought of
> this a different way... What if, instead of the top hinging up, it was
> more of a swivel?
>
> So looking at your top view diagram, if the piano was to the left of
> the bench, the swivel point would be in the lower right. Or maybe
> just a dowel at each corner and the top just lifts off.
>
Thanks for your reply! So, hinge on top of the legs, out in a cross grain
type insert. That could work. Or just really long screws?
As for construction - I have only ever built a few pieces with M&T joints.
Mine are pretty tight, glued and clamped. They seem solid, they look good
(no gaps or defects visible). They are 3/8 wide, ~2" long and about 1" deep.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You could still hinge the tops of the legs, and have only the hinge
> barrels showing,and under the lip as well. Mortice the top and the
> legs. The top will only open slightly less than 90 degrees, but it's
> sufficient. As to the grain problem, you could route or drill a pocket
> or hole in the tops of the legs to glue in a cross grain insert. Some
> people do this when screwing to MDF, works great.
> BTW, I grew up with a concert pianist, and every few years we were
> fixing the bench, as there are a lot of lateral forces applied when the
> user slides onto and off the bench. I hope you have tight MT joints!
>
Thanx for your reply!
You're right about courier, I did mean non-proportional. (I did spell ASCII
correctly so I do deserve some credit)
As for the pin hinge. I do not think I will have enough room to do as you
describe.
That gives me a different idea though, similar to yours.
I'm wondering outloud if I could attach a filler strip to the bottom of the
lid.
More ASCII art. Side view...
___________________________
/ Top
\___________________________
}| |H||
{|___|H||
{ 0||<skirt
} ||
The {} represent the outside edge of the leg, the HH0 represents the hinge.
The lid may still hang up on the legs. Hmmm, not that I have drawn it I do
not think that will work.
Thanks again!
"Doug Miller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>, "Brikp"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
>>finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is
>>1/2"
>>larger than the base on all sides.
>>
>>My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
>>
>>Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
>>this....
>>(This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
>>look at it.)
>
> Actually, Courier is a *non* proportional font... but that's OK. I knew
> what
> you meant. :-)
>
> How about a couple of pins on the legs
>
> --------- ---------
> | |== ==| |
> | | | |
> | |------------------------------| |
> | | | |
> |_______|------------------------------|________|
>
> and a couple of brackets like so
> _____
> | |
> \ O /
> \___/
> on the underside of the lid, to fit over the pins and provide the hinge?
>
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
>
> Get a copy of my NEW AND IMPROVED TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter
> by sending email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com
> You must use your REAL email address to get a response.
>
>
OK, another option. Option 12 I think I'm up to! Thanks everyone.
How about this one?
Rip the top about 1 1/2" from the edge, affix the small side permanently to
the base. Put the hinges in vertically, maybe use a piano hinge or some type
of concealed hinge. It would look like this (Since I seem to be in an ASCII
mood)
___o____________________________
/ H Top \
\___H____________________________/
| |
|L|
|E|
|G|
Downside would be an ugly seam and hinge in my nicely figured seat and a cut
through my sliding dovetail breadboard end.
"Brikp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK - Thanks all who have previously responded to my posts as I seek advice
> on expanding my woodworking skills.
>
> I think I may have made a screw-up. It could be easy to fix or a real
> pain, causing me to almost start from scratch.
>
> Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
> finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is
> 1/2" larger than the base on all sides.
>
> My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
>
> Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
> this....
> (This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
> look at it.)
>
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
>
> For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides
> have a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise
> into the legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one
> coat of BLO. The thing looks really nice.
>
> Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on
> the legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
>
> OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>
> My options:
> 1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
> hold in the end grain for long)
> 2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
> but nothing jumped out at me so far)
> 3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs (I
> am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
> 4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have
> holding issues (Remember I already began finishing))
> 5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
>
> Thanks in advance!!!
>
> -B
>
>
For the person who asked privately, here are some pictures...
http://www.peppel.com/bench/benchpics0092.jpg
http://www.peppel.com/bench/benchpics0082.jpg
http://www.peppel.com/bench/benchpics0072.jpg
http://www.peppel.com/bench/benchpics0052.jpg
http://www.peppel.com/bench/benchpics0042.jpg
Not too clear, kind of dark, but good enough to see where I'm at. I have
ordered two different style overlay hinges from LeeVally to see if I can
adapt them. If Ya'll are interested I will let you know what solution I do
and I will send some final pictures as well. I will be continuing finishing
and building the top. Hinges will be last thing in a week or two once final
finish is dry.
What a great group! Thanks all.
"Brikp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK - Thanks all who have previously responded to my posts as I seek advice
> on expanding my woodworking skills.
>
> I think I may have made a screw-up. It could be easy to fix or a real
> pain, causing me to almost start from scratch.
>
> Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
> finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is
> 1/2" larger than the base on all sides.
>
> My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
>
> Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
> this....
> (This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
> look at it.)
>
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
>
> For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides
> have a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise
> into the legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one
> coat of BLO. The thing looks really nice.
>
> Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on
> the legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
>
> OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>
> My options:
> 1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
> hold in the end grain for long)
> 2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
> but nothing jumped out at me so far)
> 3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs (I
> am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
> 4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have
> holding issues (Remember I already began finishing))
> 5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
>
> Thanks in advance!!!
>
> -B
>
>
Thanks for the reply Larry. I found a couple of hinge options that, with the
adjustments to the piece may do the trick. We will see. I posted a few pics
if your interested. See my last reply to my original message.
-B
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 11:27:43 -0500, "Brikp" <[email protected]>
> calmly ranted:
>
>>
>>For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides
>>have
>>a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise into the
>>legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one coat of
>>BLO. The thing looks really nice.
>>
>>Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on
>>the
>>legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
>>
>>OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>
>>My options:
>>1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
>>hold in the end grain for long)
>>2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
>>but nothing jumped out at me so far)
>>3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs (I
>>am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
>>4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have
>>holding
>>issues (Remember I already began finishing))
>
> Mortise a piece in so it would have fresh wood to glue to.
>
>
>>5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
>>
>>Thanks in advance!!!
>
> More options:
>
> 6) Rabbet the top of the two legs 1/2" x 1/2" x leg width.
> 7) Use a deeper hinge and cut half the depth off the outside piece
> so it overhangs the skirt, providing the depth needed.
> (see half-ascii art below)
> 8) Miter both the top (seat) and the legs so they clear each other.
> This could be done only at the legs or full width of the top.
> 9) Use both a longer hinge -and- mitering to achieve the clearance.
>
> ---------------
> | 0 0 | top/seat half
> ===============
> | 0 0 | overhang
> | |--------------
> | 0 | skirt half of the hinge
> |-------------|--------------
>
>
> ==========================================================
> CAUTION: Do not use remaining fingers as pushsticks!
> ==========================================================
> http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
>
They are a design element. wink wink Hey, what do you want, this is only my
second real piece I'm making.
"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 18:12:02 -0500, "Brikp" <[email protected]>
> calmly ranted:
>
>>Thanks for the reply Larry. I found a couple of hinge options that, with
>>the
>>adjustments to the piece may do the trick. We will see. I posted a few
>>pics
>>if your interested. See my last reply to my original message.
>
> Yes, I just now looked at them, Brian. Cool.
> I, too, just made a LVT order this morning.
>
> P.S: What are those little pieces of mitered quarter-round in the
> box hiding, hmmm? <g>
>
>
> ==============================================================
> Like peace and quiet? Buy a phoneless cord.
> http://www/diversify.com/stees.html Hilarious T-shirts online
> ==============================================================
>
Brikp wrote:
> OK - Thanks all who have previously responded to my posts as I seek advice
> on expanding my woodworking skills.
>
> I think I may have made a screw-up. It could be easy to fix or a real pain,
> causing me to almost start from scratch.
>
> Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
> finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is 1/2"
> larger than the base on all sides.
>
> My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
>
> Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
> this....
> (This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
> look at it.)
>
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
>
> For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides have
> a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise into the
> legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one coat of
> BLO. The thing looks really nice.
>
> Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on the
> legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
>
> OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>
> My options:
> 1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
> hold in the end grain for long)
> 2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
> but nothing jumped out at me so far)
> 3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs (I
> am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
> 4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have holding
> issues (Remember I already began finishing))
> 5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
>
> Thanks in advance!!!
>
> -B
>
>
I don't understand the problem, why not look at a piano
bench. I assume your top is somewhat longer and wider than
the greatest dimension of the case (including legs). On my
piano bench twp flat hinges (no mortising) are set atop
the case about t inches in from the outside dimension. The
top is wider than the case so you really have to look to see
the brass hinges. BTW its a bench for a Baldwin.
Option 6.
No hinges. Just install some cleats on the underside of the seat so that the
seat mates seturely to the bottom.
How much bigger is the seat than the rectangle formed by the outer corners
of the legs? The strip idea might be fine of it is well-hidden beneath the
overhang of the seat. Holding should not be a problem if you scrape off the
finish exposing virgin wood for gluing. If you did the finish once, you can
replicate it for the strip.
Option 7.
Modified strip idea... Make a bracket or some type of bump-out to handle the
extra 3/8", but do it in an explicit, obvious, orinimental and artistic way
(e.g "I meant to do that"). This may require matching ornimental whatevers
on the non-hinge side.
-Steve
"Brikp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> OK - Thanks all who have previously responded to my posts as I seek advice
> on expanding my woodworking skills.
>
> I think I may have made a screw-up. It could be easy to fix or a real
pain,
> causing me to almost start from scratch.
>
> Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
> finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is
1/2"
> larger than the base on all sides.
>
> My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
>
> Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
> this....
> (This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
> look at it.)
>
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> || ||
> _____ _____
> | |___________________________| |
> | |___________________________ |
> |_____| |_____|
>
> For the ASCII challenged. The legs are mortised to the sides, the sides
have
> a dado holding a bottom (Like a drawer bottom). The sides mortise into the
> legs in the middle of the leg. FWIW - I have already applied one coat of
> BLO. The thing looks really nice.
>
> Now, if I attached a regular old hinge to the back side it will bind on
the
> legs as they protrude ~ 3/8" beyond the back side.
>
> OK, so how do I hinge a lid to the top?
>
> My options:
> 1) Hinge to the leg tops (would look bad and the screws will probably not
> hold in the end grain for long)
> 2) Find some type of offset hinge (Lee valley catalog may have something,
> but nothing jumped out at me so far)
> 3) re-do the skirts so they are flush with the outside edge of the legs (I
> am already in finishing, everything is glued up)
> 4) Filler strip on the hinge side only (Could look bad and may have
holding
> issues (Remember I already began finishing))
> 5) Turn this thing into firewood and go buy a bench (Just kidding)
>
> Thanks in advance!!!
>
> -B
>
>
Pin'm
That is, drill a hole through the leg/tennon/leg (but not out the back side)
and pound a dowel in there.
Oh never mind, you said you had already started finishing.
"Brikp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Thanks for your reply! So, hinge on top of the legs, out in a cross grain
> type insert. That could work. Or just really long screws?
>
> As for construction - I have only ever built a few pieces with M&T joints.
> Mine are pretty tight, glued and clamped. They seem solid, they look good
> (no gaps or defects visible). They are 3/8 wide, ~2" long and about 1"
deep.
> I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > You could still hinge the tops of the legs, and have only the hinge
> > barrels showing,and under the lip as well. Mortice the top and the
> > legs. The top will only open slightly less than 90 degrees, but it's
> > sufficient. As to the grain problem, you could route or drill a pocket
> > or hole in the tops of the legs to glue in a cross grain insert. Some
> > people do this when screwing to MDF, works great.
> > BTW, I grew up with a concert pianist, and every few years we were
> > fixing the bench, as there are a lot of lateral forces applied when the
> > user slides onto and off the bench. I hope you have tight MT joints!
> >
>
>
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 18:12:02 -0500, "Brikp" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>Thanks for the reply Larry. I found a couple of hinge options that, with the
>adjustments to the piece may do the trick. We will see. I posted a few pics
>if your interested. See my last reply to my original message.
Yes, I just now looked at them, Brian. Cool.
I, too, just made a LVT order this morning.
P.S: What are those little pieces of mitered quarter-round in the
box hiding, hmmm? <g>
==============================================================
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On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 11:27:43 -0500, "Brikp" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>OK - Thanks all who have previously responded to my posts as I seek advice
>on expanding my woodworking skills.
>
>I think I may have made a screw-up. It could be easy to fix or a real pain,
>causing me to almost start from scratch.
>
>Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
>finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is 1/2"
>larger than the base on all sides.
>
>My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
I had the same problem when I built mine some time ago. What I did
was to add a sturdy [1/2" thick, 1.5" wide] piece of nice looking
molding flush with the top, and between the protruding legs all the
way around. I fastened the hinges [regular brass, cut out the molding
part to inset] to the molding and the seat. No protruding parts since
all now have the same depth.
On Fri, 10 Dec 2004 09:50:48 -0500, "Brikp" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>They are a design element. wink wink Hey, what do you want, this is only my
>second real piece I'm making.
Heh heh heh. That's what I thought. Good cover, dude.
>"Larry Jaques" <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote in message
>> P.S: What are those little pieces of mitered quarter-round in the
>> box hiding, hmmm? <g>
==============================================================
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==============================================================
In article <[email protected]>, "Brikp" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Making a piano bench from mahogany. Everything is cut and glued up and
>finishing has begun. The bench has storage under the seat. The seat is 1/2"
>larger than the base on all sides.
>
>My issue will be in attaching the hinges.
>
>Looking at the bench, from the top down, no lid attached it looks like
>this....
>(This is my attempt at ASCII art, use a proportional font like courier to
>look at it.)
Actually, Courier is a *non* proportional font... but that's OK. I knew what
you meant. :-)
How about a couple of pins on the legs
--------- ---------
| |== ==| |
| | | |
| |------------------------------| |
| | | |
|_______|------------------------------|________|
and a couple of brackets like so
_____
| |
\ O /
\___/
on the underside of the lid, to fit over the pins and provide the hinge?
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
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