I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
some restoration.
It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
bumpy texture where this was done.
The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
plausible.
I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
Thanks a lot.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Searcher7 wrote:
> I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> some restoration.
>
> It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
> looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
> bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
> plausible.
>
> I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
Don't use the angle grinder. You need something with a wide flat
surface, i.e. a random orbit sander (ROS). Try it out with #60 or 80
grit paper (on a hidden spot hopefully) and see if you can do anything
with it. If you don't need one for long, borrow one or buy a cheapo
from Harbor Fright or somesuch. Good luck and as always, should you be
caught, the Secretary will disavow any knowledge of cheap tools.
mahalo,
jo4hn
This would be my suggestion as well. The Borg sells a door skin for less
than $20 that could be glued on and would provide a great surface for the
exterior art. If you have the skill/patience I'd disassemble the thing and
recreate the side from a new piece of MDF
--
Patrick Fischer
Olalla, WA
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b60d9d00-7c91-47af-bb92-996e6612e18a@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
I think you have trouble here. If this is particle board and the
surface has been compromised as you noted, I don't think you'll ever
have much success getting it very flat by any means I can think of.
I would suggest finding some 1/8" ply and covering this unit over with
a new skin.
On Mar 25, 8:01 pm, Searcher7 <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> some restoration.
>
> It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
> looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
> bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
> plausible.
>
> I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
It depends on the cabinet itself. Does it have T-molding around the side?
What game is it? Upright, cocktail, or sitting cabinet? Many of the sides
can be replaced fairly easily as the manufacturers of the cabinets didn't
believe in glue or dadoes. An ORIGINAL game and cabinet are worth some money
so be careful. Doing the wrong repair could be disaterous not only to the
cabinet but to your wallet as well.
Allen
"Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:51662ed7-b348-4e72-a79a-ecbaa9d9aef1@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> some restoration.
>
> It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
> looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
> bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
> plausible.
>
> I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
The sit down version would be prohibitive to replacing. The upright version
should have a some cleats that are either stapled or screwed together. A
cabinet shop should be able to help you if you can't make it yourself.
In the repair area, you said it looked like it was burnt. Why sand it then?
You have to find out exactly what the material is that was used to cover it
up. I doubt it is plaster but could be wood filler or bondo.
Could you post some pictures over on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
Allen
"Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:f85cddc4-aa82-420c-88ef-795bd62270db@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
> On Mar 26, 8:56 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> It depends on the cabinet itself. Does it have T-molding around the side?
>> What game is it? Upright, cocktail, or sitting cabinet? Many of the sides
>> can be replaced fairly easily as the manufacturers of the cabinets didn't
>> believe in glue or dadoes. An ORIGINAL game and cabinet are worth some
>> money
>> so be careful. Doing the wrong repair could be disaterous not only to the
>> cabinet but to your wallet as well.
>>
>> Allen
>>
>> "Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:51662ed7-b348-4e72-a79a-ecbaa9d9aef1@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>>
>> >I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
>> > some restoration.
>>
>> > It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
>> > appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
>> > looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
>> > bumpy texture where this was done.
>>
>> > The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
>> > pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
>> > and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
>> > for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
>> > plausible.
>>
>> > I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
>> > that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>>
>> > Thanks a lot.
>>
>> > Darren Harris
>> > Staten Island, New York.
>
> The cabinet is an upright Atari Star Wars from the early 80s.
>
> It's really the "thin" coating of plaster? and black paint that I need
> to get off. I think someone attempted to try something different by
> covering up the old beat-up side art, and it really came out like
> crap. Not that I really care about the aesthetics, it is inside my
> apartment, so I have to do something.
>
> I wanted to lay the cabinet on it's side and use some sort of sander
> to see how smooth I could get it. From there I could concentrate on
> power coating the coin door, and replacing the T-molding.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
Check the arcade news groups. Cabinets can be had for the price of the haul
(thats spelled Free - cost ogood luckf gas not withstanding).
"SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:b60d9d00-7c91-47af-bb92-996e6612e18a@s12g2000prg.googlegroups.com...
I think you have trouble here. If this is particle board and the
surface has been compromised as you noted, I don't think you'll ever
have much success getting it very flat by any means I can think of.
I would suggest finding some 1/8" ply and covering this unit over with
a new skin.
On Mar 25, 8:01 pm, Searcher7 <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> some restoration.
>
> It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
> looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
> bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
> plausible.
>
> I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 20:01:42 -0700 (PDT), Searcher7
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
>some restoration.
>
>It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
>appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
>looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
>bumpy texture where this was done.
>
>The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
>pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
>and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
>for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
>plausible.
>
>I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
>that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
>Thanks a lot.
>
>Darren Harris
>Staten Island, New York.
Cut new MDF or particle board side panels and save yourself a lot of
work
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
>Allen Roy wrote:
> I doubt it is plaster but could be wood filler or bondo.
>
I agree with Allen... and I'll add a third possibility. Plaster is an
uncommon medium for the average Joe to mess with. It could be drywall
compound. It's worked very easily so it's often used as a leveling compound
or as a top cover. It can easily be mistaken as plaster (plaster is much
harder when cured). If the coating IS drywall "mud", it should be easily
soluble in water (that might explain a texture that looks like "burnt" wood).
You can dissolve the coating and scrape it off. But don't flush the piece
with water 'cuz it will absorb into the MDF. I would pick an inconspicuous
spot and cover it with a soaked rag (not dripping) after removing any paint
from the surface. Leave it for a few hours and see if the coating becomes
soft and punky. If it does, scrape it off and repeat the procedure followed
by a light sanding.
If the coating is plaster, try scraping off as much as possible followed by
sanding. If the coating is Bondo (autobody filler) it's now hard as a rock
and firmly stuck to the wood (have to grind it off... near to impossible to
sand off at a practical rate).
Good luck. I'm curious to know how you make out.
Cheers.
--
Message posted via http://www.craftkb.com
"Searcher7" wrote:
>I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> some restoration.
>
> It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
> looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
> bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
> plausible.
>
> I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
Sounds to me like you are between a rock and a hard place.
The right angle grinder/sander will do more harm than help.
A ROS would do the job; however, if this is press board or MDF that has been
comprised by getting wet so that the material has swelled, forget it.
About all it would be good for is as a pattern to cut out new material such
as MDO plywood.
Lew
I think you have trouble here. If this is particle board and the
surface has been compromised as you noted, I don't think you'll ever
have much success getting it very flat by any means I can think of.
I would suggest finding some 1/8" ply and covering this unit over with
a new skin.
On Mar 25, 8:01=A0pm, Searcher7 <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> some restoration.
>
> It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
> looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
> bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
> plausible.
>
> I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
> Thanks a lot.
>
> Darren Harris
> Staten Island, New York.
On Mar 27, 9:57=A0pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> The sit down version would be prohibitive to replacing. The upright versio=
n
> should have a some cleats that are either stapled or screwed together. A
> cabinet shop should be able to help you if you can't make it yourself.
>
> In the repair area, you said it looked like it was burnt. Why sand it then=
?
> You have to find out exactly what the material is that was used to cover i=
t
> up. I doubt it is plaster but could be wood filler or bondo.
>
> Could you post some pictures over on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking
>
> Allen
>
> "Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:f85cddc4-aa82-420c-88ef-795bd62270db@s50g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
> > On Mar 26, 8:56 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> It depends on the cabinet itself. Does it have T-molding around the sid=
e?
> >> What game is it? Upright, cocktail, or sitting cabinet? Many of the sid=
es
> >> can be replaced fairly easily as the manufacturers of the cabinets didn=
't
> >> believe in glue or dadoes. An ORIGINAL game and cabinet are worth some
> >> money
> >> so be careful. Doing the wrong repair could be disaterous not only to t=
he
> >> cabinet but to your wallet as well.
>
> >> Allen
>
> >> "Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >>news:51662ed7-b348-4e72-a79a-ecbaa9d9aef1@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com..=
.
>
> >> >I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> >> > some restoration.
>
> >> > It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> >> > appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually=
> >> > looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,=
> >> > bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> >> > The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> >> > pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> >> > and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> >> > for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just no=
t
> >> > plausible.
>
> >> > I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> >> > that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
> >> > Thanks a lot.
>
> >> > Darren Harris
> >> > Staten Island, New York.
>
> > The cabinet is an upright Atari Star Wars from the early 80s.
>
> > It's really the "thin" coating of plaster? and black paint that I need
> > to get off. I think someone attempted to try something different by
> > covering up the old beat-up side art, and it really came out like
> > crap. Not that I really care about the aesthetics, it is inside my
> > apartment, so I have to do something.
>
> > I wanted to lay the cabinet on it's side and use some sort of sander
> > to see how smooth I could get it. From there I could concentrate on
> > power coating the coin door, and replacing the T-molding.
>
> > Thanks.
>
> > Darren Harris
> > Staten Island, New York.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
If I knew how I would.
BTW. Here's a excerpt I received from the guy I brought the cabinet
from:
"The black stuff is definitely some kind of textured paint. To remove
it from the one side, I used 3M Safest Stripper. You can search for
how to use it on klov forums or google groups. I applied it to the
paint, waited 3-5 minutes and then scraped it away using a plastic
putty knife. If you go slowly, you can try to preserve what is
underneath. For the left side, it was not much to look at, but the
front artwork was in better shape. You may just want to take a power
sander to the other side since you have replacement artwork..."
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
On Mar 26, 8:56 pm, "Allen Roy" <[email protected]> wrote:
> It depends on the cabinet itself. Does it have T-molding around the side?
> What game is it? Upright, cocktail, or sitting cabinet? Many of the sides
> can be replaced fairly easily as the manufacturers of the cabinets didn't
> believe in glue or dadoes. An ORIGINAL game and cabinet are worth some money
> so be careful. Doing the wrong repair could be disaterous not only to the
> cabinet but to your wallet as well.
>
> Allen
>
> "Searcher7" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:51662ed7-b348-4e72-a79a-ecbaa9d9aef1@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
>
> >I have a full size coin operated arcade video game that will require
> > some restoration.
>
> > It looks as thought a previous owner coated the sides with what
> > appears to be plaster and attempted to paint over it. And it actually
> > looks as though the cabinet had been on fire an it has a hard, black,
> > bumpy texture where this was done.
>
> > The cabinet itself is what I belive to be called particle board(or
> > pressed wood), and I will need to do a lot of sanding so I can prime
> > and then paint it before applying side-art(stickers), and was hoping
> > for advice on the best tool for this job. Doing it by hand is just not
> > plausible.
>
> > I have an angle grinder and was wondering if there was an attachment
> > that I could use for this purpose, but I am oppen to any ideas.
>
> > Thanks a lot.
>
> > Darren Harris
> > Staten Island, New York.
The cabinet is an upright Atari Star Wars from the early 80s.
It's really the "thin" coating of plaster? and black paint that I need
to get off. I think someone attempted to try something different by
covering up the old beat-up side art, and it really came out like
crap. Not that I really care about the aesthetics, it is inside my
apartment, so I have to do something.
I wanted to lay the cabinet on it's side and use some sort of sander
to see how smooth I could get it. From there I could concentrate on
power coating the coin door, and replacing the T-molding.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.