Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I get
stuck.
We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now I can
match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
So here is my question.
I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
Being electronics clueless I don't know if these are compatible or not.
I'm going to scratch ids on these power supplies as I get everything plugged in.
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I
get
> stuck.
> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now
I can
> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
> So here is my question.
> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
>
Yes it will work. As long as the power supply has at least the capacity the
device requires (proper voltage, sufficient amperage), it will work. Of
course, that assumes the connector is the right size and polarity.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Wes Stewart" <n7ws*@*yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Conceivably. But I've got an excuse; I woke up a 2 AM for some damn
> reason.
>
>
I guess that's better than waking up at 2 AM for *no* damn reason...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Sat, 1 Oct 2005 05:22:06 -0400, Mike Marlow <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> "Wes Stewart" <n7ws*@*yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Conceivably. But I've got an excuse; I woke up a 2 AM for some damn
>> reason.
> I guess that's better than waking up at 2 AM for *no* damn reason...
Well, there are good reasons to be woke up at 2 AM too... but that's the
sort of thing that leads to getting up for 2 AM feedings...
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 02:45:40 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> What if it's the wrong polarity.
>> The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity.
>> What happens if I choose wrong?
>
>Polarity of designs is one of the most important elements of good projects.
>Your drawings will be incorrect. If you put the wood through the planer
>with the wrong polarity you'll get a lot of tearout. Once you finally get
>it assembled backwards, the finish won't stick.
That describes most of my woodwork.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 10:09:21 GMT, "Tim and Steph" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a
>>>different
>>>one.:(
>>>Only 20 more boxes to search.
>>
>> check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
>
>Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't
>exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying
>to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for motors,
>lights, and not a lot else.
>
I have a couple of them floating around. they do exist.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:54:30 -0700, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I forgot to mention the plug polarity in my response.
>For DC the center is usually the + connection, but not
>always. Getting it wrong can range from won't work
>(but no damage) to letting the magic smoke out and
>having it never work again.
>
Thanks I just sent Wacom an email.
It has to be quicker than searching all these boxes for the correct power
supply.
I found a 12v DC 300mA supply with a switchable polarity.
using a volt meter would be cool. I have one, somewhere in all these boxes.:)
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I
> get
> stuck.
> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now
> I can
> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
> So here is my question.
> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
>
> Being electronics clueless I don't know if these are compatible or not.
> I'm going to scratch ids on these power supplies as I get everything
> plugged in.
Have to kind of chuckle here - had the same thing happen to me.
Someone thought it would be good idea to put all the plugs in 1 box.
Ugh - what a nightmare.
Now as a tip - when ever I buy something that has a removeable plug - (99%
of them are black) I use a black sharpe and write on the plug what it for.
You cant see unless you hold it at the right angle to the light so it works
well.
Just a tip for ya in the future.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:35:38 -0400, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I
>get
>> stuck.
>> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now
>I can
>> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
>> So here is my question.
>> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
>> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
>>
>
>Yes it will work. As long as the power supply has at least the capacity the
>device requires (proper voltage, sufficient amperage), it will work. Of
>course, that assumes the connector is the right size and polarity.
Thanks for the quick reply. I use this for drawing my WW designs.
What if it's the wrong polarity.
The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity.
What happens if I choose wrong?
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I
> get
> stuck.
> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now
> I can
> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
> So here is my question.
> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
>
> Being electronics clueless I don't know if these are compatible or not.
> I'm going to scratch ids on these power supplies as I get everything
> plugged in.
Hard to say without knowing if they are both AC or DC. Feeling lucky?
You must match the voltages, 12V, which you have done.
The amps of the supply must also be equal to or greater than the
requirement of the device. This is ok too as 500mA is greater than
100mA(0.10A)
One more thing is you have to match is the AC or DC requirements
of the device and the supply.
Art
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I get
> stuck.
> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now I can
> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
> So here is my question.
> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
>
> Being electronics clueless I don't know if these are compatible or not.
> I'm going to scratch ids on these power supplies as I get everything plugged in.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:43:37 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, "Joe
B" <[email protected]> quickly quoth:
>Thanks for the quick reply. I use this for drawing my WW designs.
>What if it's the wrong polarity.
>The power supply I have has an end o
>>Yes it will work. As long as tn it where you can switch polarity.
>What happens if I choose wrong?
You might fry the tablet, so DON'T do that.
Put an email in to Wacom Tech Support, Joe. List the tablet model and
ask the questions to them. They should be able to help.
A Wacom Art-Z 6x9 lives on my desk. The outside connection is the
positive (18.89v) , so mine is a reverse-polarity plug.
--
"Simplicity of life, even the barest, is not misery but
the very foundation of refinement." --William Morris
-----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
"Dave Hinz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 1 Oct 2005 05:22:06 -0400, Mike Marlow <[email protected]>
wrote:
> >
> > "Wes Stewart" <n7ws*@*yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> Conceivably. But I've got an excuse; I woke up a 2 AM for some damn
> >> reason.
>
> > I guess that's better than waking up at 2 AM for *no* damn reason...
>
> Well, there are good reasons to be woke up at 2 AM too... but that's the
> sort of thing that leads to getting up for 2 AM feedings...
Can't say *THAT* ever happened to me. You married a good woman...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:35:38 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when
I
> >get
> >> stuck.
> >> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies.
Now
> >I can
> >> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
> >> So here is my question.
> >> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
> >> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
> >>
> >
> >Yes it will work. As long as the power supply has at least the capacity
the
> >device requires (proper voltage, sufficient amperage), it will work. Of
> >course, that assumes the connector is the right size and polarity.
>
> Thanks for the quick reply. I use this for drawing my WW designs.
> What if it's the wrong polarity.
> The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity.
> What happens if I choose wrong?
It can result in something as benign as nothing happening, or it can be
destructive. Look at the device. It should have a decal on it that shows
the polarity it expects. Usually the outer part of the connector is - and
the inner part is +. This isn't always true, but it is more common than the
opposite. Use a volt meter to verify that the plug matches the polarity
expected by the markings on the device.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Wes Stewart" <n7ws*@*yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 10:09:21 GMT, "Tim and Steph" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>>The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a
>>>>different
>>>>one.:(
>>>>Only 20 more boxes to search.
>>>
>>> check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
>>
>>Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't
>>exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying
>>to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for
>>motors,
>>lights, and not a lot else.
>
> Actually, a powered device might contain the
> rectifier/filter/regulator and only use the wart for the AC supply.
>
> It would be nice if all devices were made this way, then the OP's
> question would be mute.
both mute and moot?
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 10:09:21 GMT, "Tim and Steph" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a
>>>different
>>>one.:(
>>>Only 20 more boxes to search.
>>
>> check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
>
>Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't
>exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying
>to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for motors,
>lights, and not a lot else.
Actually, a powered device might contain the
rectifier/filter/regulator and only use the wart for the AC supply.
It would be nice if all devices were made this way, then the OP's
question would be mute.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:00:50 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Wes Stewart" <n7ws*@*yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 10:09:21 GMT, "Tim and Steph" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>>>The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a
>>>>>different
>>>>>one.:(
>>>>>Only 20 more boxes to search.
>>>>
>>>> check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
>>>
>>>Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't
>>>exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying
>>>to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for
>>>motors,
>>>lights, and not a lot else.
>>
>> Actually, a powered device might contain the
>> rectifier/filter/regulator and only use the wart for the AC supply.
>>
>> It would be nice if all devices were made this way, then the OP's
>> question would be mute.
>
>both mute and moot?
Conceivably. But I've got an excuse; I woke up a 2 AM for some damn
reason.
>
>>The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a
>>different
>>one.:(
>>Only 20 more boxes to search.
>
> check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't
exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying
to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for motors,
lights, and not a lot else.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:46:45 -0700, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote:
>You must match the voltages, 12V, which you have done.
>The amps of the supply must also be equal to or greater than the
>requirement of the device. This is ok too as 500mA is greater than
>100mA(0.10A)
>One more thing is you have to match is the AC or DC requirements
>of the device and the supply.
>
The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a different
one.:(
Only 20 more boxes to search.
>Art
>
>
>"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I get
>> stuck.
>> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now I can
>> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
>> So here is my question.
>> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
>> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
>>
>> Being electronics clueless I don't know if these are compatible or not.
>> I'm going to scratch ids on these power supplies as I get everything plugged in.
>
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:32:31 -0700, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote:
>It may be quicker to go here
>http://www.wacom.com/productsupport/manuals.cfm
>and get the manual for your device.
>
Did that this morning, my manual isn't there. I did a google search for one as
well no luck at all.
>Just for the hell of it I checked the Intuos2 and it has
>the + connection on the shell.
>
Mine HAS a Plus sign connected to a C with a ball inside the C connected to a
minus sign. This I assume means the pin is a minus so I should set my adapter
accordingly.
Does this sound correct?
>Art
>
>"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:54:30 -0700, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >I forgot to mention the plug polarity in my response.
>> >For DC the center is usually the + connection, but not
>> >always. Getting it wrong can range from won't work
>> >(but no damage) to letting the magic smoke out and
>> >having it never work again.
>> >
>> Thanks I just sent Wacom an email.
>> It has to be quicker than searching all these boxes for the correct power
>> supply.
>> I found a 12v DC 300mA supply with a switchable polarity.
>> using a volt meter would be cool. I have one, somewhere in all these boxes.:)
>
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> What if it's the wrong polarity.
> The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity.
> What happens if I choose wrong?
Polarity of designs is one of the most important elements of good projects.
Your drawings will be incorrect. If you put the wood through the planer
with the wrong polarity you'll get a lot of tearout. Once you finally get
it assembled backwards, the finish won't stick.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/
It may be quicker to go here
http://www.wacom.com/productsupport/manuals.cfm
and get the manual for your device.
Just for the hell of it I checked the Intuos2 and it has
the + connection on the shell.
Art
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:54:30 -0700, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I forgot to mention the plug polarity in my response.
> >For DC the center is usually the + connection, but not
> >always. Getting it wrong can range from won't work
> >(but no damage) to letting the magic smoke out and
> >having it never work again.
> >
> Thanks I just sent Wacom an email.
> It has to be quicker than searching all these boxes for the correct power
> supply.
> I found a 12v DC 300mA supply with a switchable polarity.
> using a volt meter would be cool. I have one, somewhere in all these boxes.:)
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:43:37 -0700, Joe B wrote:
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:35:38 -0400, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> Not woodworking but this group has never failed to have the answer when I
>>get
>>> stuck.
>>> We recently moved and had at least 20 gadgets that use power supplies. Now
>>I can
>>> match the power supplies to several of the computer gadgets.
>>> So here is my question.
>>> I have a wacom artpad that says it requires 12v 0.10A
>>> The only power supply I have that is close is a 12v 500mA
>>>
>>
>>Yes it will work. As long as the power supply has at least the capacity the
>>device requires (proper voltage, sufficient amperage), it will work. Of
>>course, that assumes the connector is the right size and polarity.
>
> Thanks for the quick reply. I use this for drawing my WW designs.
> What if it's the wrong polarity.
> The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity.
> What happens if I choose wrong?
Usually -- Zap --. Wrong polarity or over voltage are the
easiest ways to fry electronics. Always make sure the
polarity is correct (it's usually marked on the device,
but not always on the wall wart. Other replies are correct
voltages must be matched (value, polarity, and AC/DC) the
wall wart must provide more current than the electrical
device requires.
D.G. Adams
>>
>Mine HAS a Plus sign connected to a C with a ball inside the C connected to a
>minus sign. This I assume means the pin is a minus so I should set my adapter
>accordingly.
>Does this sound correct?
Yep, that's right. + on the shell, - on the pin, based on yor
description.
Ain't those thing a PITA! I must have 6 under my desk right now.
Regards.
On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:47:44 -0700, "Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 15:46:45 -0700, "Wood Butcher" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>You must match the voltages, 12V, which you have done.
>>The amps of the supply must also be equal to or greater than the
>>requirement of the device. This is ok too as 500mA is greater than
>>100mA(0.10A)
>>One more thing is you have to match is the AC or DC requirements
>>of the device and the supply.
>>
>The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a different
>one.:(
>Only 20 more boxes to search.
check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:43:34 -0700, Wes Stewart <n7ws*@*yahoo.com> wrote:
>On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 11:00:50 -0700, "Charles Spitzer"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Wes Stewart" <n7ws*@*yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 30 Sep 2005 10:09:21 GMT, "Tim and Steph" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>>>The pad says DC and the Adapter says AC so I guess I have to find a
>>>>>>different
>>>>>>one.:(
>>>>>>Only 20 more boxes to search.
>>>>>
>>>>> check carefully. it might be AC input and DC output.
>>>>
>>>>Not sure I've ever seen a wall wart with AC output. Not saying they don't
>>>>exist, but for the most part, if it's electronic, it's DC. Imagine trying
>>>>to design any kind of logic circuit with AC? Yikes! AC is good for
>>>>motors,
>>>>lights, and not a lot else.
>>>
>>> Actually, a powered device might contain the
>>> rectifier/filter/regulator and only use the wart for the AC supply.
>>>
>>> It would be nice if all devices were made this way, then the OP's
>>> question would be mute.
>>
>>both mute and moot?
>
>Conceivably. But I've got an excuse; I woke up a 2 AM for some damn
>reason.
>>
In my case it because I forgot to shut off the power to my noisy compressor and
the windows are open.
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
> Polarity of designs is one of the most important elements of good
projects.
> Your drawings will be incorrect. If you put the wood through the planer
> with the wrong polarity you'll get a lot of tearout. Once you finally get
> it assembled backwards, the finish won't stick.
There is a fix, however ... One of those "old carpenter tricks" (although
FWW rejected it in their "methods of work" section for some strange reason):
Feed the wood from the outfeed side (be persistent), then just face in the
opposite direction at assembly.
Your tearout will then be just a minor problem, and your finish will be the
least of your problems.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/17/05
I forgot to mention the plug polarity in my response.
For DC the center is usually the + connection, but not
always. Getting it wrong can range from won't work
(but no damage) to letting the magic smoke out and
having it never work again.
For AC it doesn't matter.
Art
"Joe B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 18:35:38 -0400, "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> What if it's the wrong polarity.
> The power supply I have has an end on it where you can switch polarity.
> What happens if I choose wrong?