Laundry platform

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 8:32:13 PM UTC-4, [email protected] wrote:

"I couldn't glue it but I sure wish the builder had."

After a hurricane ripped the roof off house after house in Miami a few deca=
des back the building codes were changed and things like gluing roof sheath=
ing in place were adopted.

At a university, they studied the results of the hurricane and ran various =
tests on structures and determined that running a bead of construction adhe=
sive along (either side of) the joint where the rafter met the sheathing (i=
n the attic) would significantly reinforce the structure.

You might try this on your flooring if you have exposed floor joists you ca=
n access in the crawl pace or basement. Six bucks with of sub-floor adhesiv=
e just might make a difference.

(;harles wrote:

>
>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,
>
> Really?
>
> How does one pre-drill?
>
> Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?
>
> Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?
>

As a matter of fact, I DO pre-drill. It's not zen like, it's just
looking at where the thing is aimed to make sure I don't put a hole in
my head.

Again.

Puckdropper

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:

>On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
>> On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> > On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>> >
>> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> >>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>> >>>>
>> >>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>> >>>>
>> >>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>> >>>
>> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>> >>>
>> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>> >>>
>> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>> >>
>> >> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>> >> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>> >> screwed on:
>> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>> > plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>> > 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>> > built
>>
>> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>> Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
>> nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
>> ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
>> making this?
>>
>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
>> important with an impact driver, less important if anything.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jack
>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>
>IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.

The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.

I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
machine will product.

And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.

On Sun, 03 Nov 2019 01:58:16 +0000, Spalted Walt
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Jack wrote:
>
>[...]
>
>> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>
>... brads, but I get your point.
><https://www.youtube.com/embed/piXXXpIniRw?autoplay=1&start=351&end=367&rel=0>

I think I'd use clamps.

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>> > "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>> >
>>> > > The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>> >
>>> > Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>
>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>
>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>
>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>
>>Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>screwed on:
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>built

People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 8:42:34 PM UTC-4, (;harles wrote:
> When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt: You say "I drilled a=
hole."
>=20
> When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it: You say "I drilled =
a hole."
>=20
> When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw: You say "I drilled a=
starter hole."
>=20
> And, based upon your post, you knew that all along!
>=20
> "...the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact, to drill bef=
ore driving a screw or nail..."
>=20
> Context controls. The OP was, in fact, referring to drilling pilot holes =
- no need for "interpretation" at all.=20
>=20
> A language has constructs, rules, if you will. Ostensibly, we were all t=
aught such things as part of our education. To argue a point one needs refe=
rence to the rule as opposed to anecdote and references to one's subjective=
apprehension of what is 'common.'
>=20
> "BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?"=20
>=20
> According to Miriam Webster online, the later is preferred and the former=
will serve. Since neither makes any sense, why worry about the rule for hy=
phenation?

Is foreplay a synonym for predrill?

I'll ask SWMBO which term she prefers.

On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 18:06:34 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Tuesday, October 22, 2019 at 5:48:29 PM UTC-4, Gramps' shop wrote:
>> get the machines up on the platform
>
>Depends upon the height to some extent. However the Hand truck combine with the Tilt one end suggestion may prove your best one-man bet. The Dryer's unlikely to prove too tough - but the washer is another (HEAVY) story.
>
>If you can approach from the ramp's sides, slip the hand truck under one side of the machine and tighten the strap! Then you should be able to tilt the thing back toward you and move it forward and let it down onto your platform. (If you build a ramp, well then, roll tide!)
>
>If there is no ramp, then you may need to use a 2by4 under the axle of the hand truck once the edge of the machine is up on your platform. If you've help, the two of you should be able to lift the hand truck and machine and push bothe onto the platform.
>
>Maybe do the Dryer first - practice on the easy machine!
>
>BY THE WAY - I can tell you that you do not want a hernia!

Another point to ponder, never underestimate the utility of a car, a
pulley, and a rope as a lifting device. Just be careful, because you
can do a _lot_ of damage that way.
>

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 11:30:38 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 15:14:55 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
> >> On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
> >> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >>
> >> >
> >> >> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,
> >> >
> >> >Really?
> >> >
> >> >How does one pre-drill?
> >> >
> >> >Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?
> >> >
> >> >Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?
> >> >
> >> >
> >> pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
> >> Drill before driving screw or nail.
> >
> >Don't we *always* drill before doing something with the hole?
> >
> No. The vast majority of wood screws are driven into virgin wood. I've
> NEVER seen drywall screws go into a drilled hole. I've virtually never
> seen deck screws put into a drilled hole. The vast majority of sheet
> metal screws make their own hole. I've seen hundreds of lag bolts go
> into beams without drilling holes. Most screw-in hooks go in without
> drilling a hole
> >When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt, should I say I
> >pre-drilled?
>
> ALL bolts need to have a drilled hole. Not all screws need a drilled
> hole.
> >
> >When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it, should I say I
> >pre-drilled?
>
> Love to see you put a wire through just about anything without making
> a hole first - whether you use a drill or an axe is up to you.
> >
> >When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw, should I say I
> >pre-drilled?
> >
> >Even though the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact,
> >to drill before driving a screw or nail, the basic semantics - "to drill
> >before" doesn't really define what we are drilling "before".
> >
> >Isn't language fun? ;-)
> >

A total Whoosh!

Never mind, not worth the rime to explain it.

DerbyDad03 wrote:

> On Saturday, October 26, 2019 at 10:15:18 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
>>>> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>>>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>>>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>>>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>>>>>would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>>>>>screwed on:
>>>>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>>>>> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>>>>>plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>>>>>1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>>>>>built
>>>>
>>>> People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
>>>> freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
>>>> corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
>>>> and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.
>>>
>>> Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.
>>>
>>> Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
>>> with all the weight on one edge.
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW-ovx0Y
>>
>> ... sorry, I couldn't resist ;)
>
> You could have resisted.
>
> (No, I couldn't)
>
> Yes, you could have.
>
> (No, no, I couldn't.)
>
> I told you, you could have.
>
> (No you didn't.)
>
> Yes, I did!
>
> (No you didn't.)
>
> I did!
>
> (You didn't.)
>
> Did.
>
> (Oh look, this isn't an argument.)
>
> Yes it is.

+1 . . . EGG-ZACKLY!

On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>=20
> >On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
> ><[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >>DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>
> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrot=
e:
> >>> > "Gramps' shop" wrote:
> >>> >=20
> >>> > > The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading wash=
er and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? The=
re=E2=80=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
> >>> >=20
> >>> > Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
> >>> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Df8PMv3_YkEw&t=3D146s>
> >>> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DDUED5JCK8_4&t=3D131s>
> >>>=20
> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 po=
unds
> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.=20
> >>>=20
> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end pu=
rpose.
> >>>=20
> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
> >>
> >>Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
> >>would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
> >>screwed on:
> >>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DpiXXXpIniRw
> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
> >plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
> >1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
> >built
>=20
> People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
> freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
> corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
> and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.

Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.

Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,=20
with all the weight on one edge.

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>>> > On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>>>> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>> >>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>>> >> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>>> >> screwed on:
>>>> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>>>> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>>>> > plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>>>> > 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>>>> > built
>>>>
>>>> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>>>> Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
>>>> nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
>>>> ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
>>>> making this?
>>>>
>>>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
>>>> important with an impact driver, less important if anything.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jack
>>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>>>
>>>IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.
>>
>>The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
>>on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.
>>
>>I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
>>and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
>>machine will product.
>>
>>And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.
> Are you sure?????
> Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
>joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
>screwed floors do NOT squeak.

+1

Mine sure are (though there are a couple of places in the master
bedroom that are loose. When I replaced the carpeting in a previous
house, I went through all the rooms and use a few thousand screws
tightening the subflooring. I couldn't glue it but I sure wish the
builder had.

When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt: You say "I drilled a h=
ole."

When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it: You say "I drilled a =
hole."

When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw: You say "I drilled a s=
tarter hole."

And, based upon your post, you knew that all along!

"...the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact, to drill befor=
e driving a screw or nail..."

Context controls. The OP was, in fact, referring to drilling pilot holes - =
no need for "interpretation" at all.=20

A language has constructs, rules, if you will. Ostensibly, we were all tau=
ght such things as part of our education. To argue a point one needs refere=
nce to the rule as opposed to anecdote and references to one's subjective a=
pprehension of what is 'common.'

"BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?"=20

According to Miriam Webster online, the later is preferred and the former w=
ill serve. Since neither makes any sense, why worry about the rule for hyph=
enation?

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 5:14:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:

>
> BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?

Gramps is a man. It's mandrill.

On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
> On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> > On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>
> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrot=
e:
> >>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer=
and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There=
=E2=80=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
> >>>>
> >>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Df8PMv3_YkEw&t=3D146s>
> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DDUED5JCK8_4&t=3D131s>
> >>>
> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 po=
unds
> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
> >>>
> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end pu=
rpose.
> >>>
> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
> >>
> >> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
> >> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
> >> screwed on:
> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DpiXXXpIniRw
> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
> > plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
> > 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
> > built
>=20
> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.=20
> Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with=
=20
> nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you=
=20
> ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on=20
> making this?
>=20
> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more=20
> important with an impact driver, less important if anything.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
> Jack
> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of=
washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >
> >> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,
> >
> >Really?
> >
> >How does one pre-drill?
> >
> >Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?
> >
> >Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?
> >
> >
> pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
> Drill before driving screw or nail.

Don't we *always* drill before doing something with the hole?

When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt, should I say I
pre-drilled?

When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it, should I say I
pre-drilled?

When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw, should I say I
pre-drilled?

Even though the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact,
to drill before driving a screw or nail, the basic semantics - "to drill
before" doesn't really define what we are drilling "before".

Isn't language fun? ;-)

BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 17:30:28 -0400, J. Clarke
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
>>>>> On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>>>> > On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>>>>> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> >
>>>>> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>> >>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>> >>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>>> >>>>
>>>>> >>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>>> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>>> >>>
>>>>> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>>> >>
>>>>> >> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>>>> >> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>>>> >> screwed on:
>>>>> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>>>>> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>>>>> > plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>>>>> > 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>>>>> > built
>>>>>
>>>>> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>>>>> Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
>>>>> nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
>>>>> ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
>>>>> making this?
>>>>>
>>>>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
>>>>> important with an impact driver, less important if anything.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> --
>>>>> Jack
>>>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>>>>
>>>>IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.
>>>
>>>The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
>>>on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.
>>>
>>>I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
>>>and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
>>>machine will product.
>>>
>>>And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.
>> Are you sure?????
>> Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
>>joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
>>screwed floors do NOT squeak.
>
>Oh, you're assuming he has one of those modern cardboard houses.
>
No. My house is over 40 years old. When replacing subflooring in older
houses with plywood I often use PL as well as screws. I never NAIL
subflooring any more. I DO staple hardwood - but not engineered
hardwood - particularly when installing "on slab" - where it is
generally glued (but sometimes, depending on the flooring, loose
laid.)

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:20:44 AM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>=20
> >On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
> >> On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> >> > On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
> >> > <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> >
> >> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt w=
rote:
> >> >>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading was=
her and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Th=
ere=E2=80=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
> >> >>>>
> >> >>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
> >> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Df8PMv3_YkEw&t=3D146s>
> >> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DDUED5JCK8_4&t=3D131s>
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250=
pounds
> >> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end=
purpose.
> >> >>>
> >> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
> >> >>
> >> >> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
> >> >> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
> >> >> screwed on:
> >> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DpiXXXpIniRw
> >> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
> >> > plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glue=
d.
> >> > 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if proper=
ly
> >> > built
> >>=20
> >> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.=20
> >> Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's wit=
h=20
> >> nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if y=
ou=20
> >> ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on=
=20
> >> making this?
> >>=20
> >> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more=20
> >> important with an impact driver, less important if anything.
> >>=20
> >>=20
> >>=20
> >> --=20
> >> Jack
> >> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
> >
> >IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result=
of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.
>=20
> The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
> on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.
>=20
> I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
> and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
> machine will product.
>=20
> And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.

How do you know what kind of floor his laundry equipment is on?

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>=20
> > The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and=
dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There=E2=
=80=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>=20
> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Df8PMv3_YkEw&t=3D146s>
> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DDUED5JCK8_4&t=3D131s>

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.=20

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 2:13:36 AM UTC-4, (;harles wrote:
> > Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,
>
> Really?
>
> How does one pre-drill?
>
> Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?
>
> Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?

https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/pre-drilling

On Tuesday, October 22, 2019 at 5:48:29 PM UTC-4, Gramps' shop wrote:
> get the machines up on the platform=20

Depends upon the height to some extent. However the Hand truck combine wit=
h the Tilt one end suggestion may prove your best one-man bet. The Dryer's =
unlikely to prove too tough - but the washer is another (HEAVY) story.=20

If you can approach from the ramp's sides, slip the hand truck under one si=
de of the machine and tighten the strap! Then you should be able to tilt th=
e thing back toward you and move it forward and let it down onto your platf=
orm. (If you build a ramp, well then, roll tide!)

If there is no ramp, then you may need to use a 2by4 under the axle of the =
hand truck once the edge of the machine is up on your platform. If you've h=
elp, the two of you should be able to lift the hand truck and machine and p=
ush bothe onto the platform.

Maybe do the Dryer first - practice on the easy machine!

BY THE WAY - I can tell you that you do not want a hernia!

On Wednesday, October 23, 2019 at 9:56:25 AM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 08:27:41 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>=20
> >>"Gramps' shop" <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
> >>The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and=
dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There=E2=
=80=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
> >
> >I've seen these in a several places. I'm not trying to poke fun or be
> >negative, but what purpose do these serve? Is this all about being
> >vertically challenged?
> >
> >My mother wanted to raise hers and she's 5'3" no problem loading or
> >unloading. The installers put the front loaders in a position where
> >the two open doors are back to back forcing you to pull out and go
> >around the doors to load the dryer. I went to get a door switch kit,
> >but you can only do that on a dryer. I'm not able to move these units
> >around, and the last time a paid guy did, they ripped up the new floor
> >and it had to be replaced.
> >
> >Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
> >more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
> >only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
> >thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.
> I stacked ours. They were a matched pair of Samsungs. The washer went
> TU just after it was off warranty so I replaced it with a Whirlpool
> Duet and nhad to modify the stacking kit a bit. They are both left
> hand door. Works great. Washer on bottom, drier on top

I can think of a few reasons.=20
- Easier to reach storage underneath.=20
- Elevates them if in a basement or where moisture/water can be a problem.=
=20
- Easier to reach in a front loading (not top loading unless you happen to =
be a professional basketball player) appliance.

DerbyDad03 wrote:

> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
> > "Gramps' shop" wrote:
> >
> > > The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
> >
> > Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>
> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>
> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>
> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

DerbyDad03 wrote:

> On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
>> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>>>
>>>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>>>
>>>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>>>
>>>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>>
>>>>Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>>>would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>>>screwed on:
>>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>>> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>>>plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>>>1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>>>built
>>
>> People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
>> freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
>> corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
>> and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.
>
> Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.
>
> Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
> with all the weight on one edge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW-ovx0Y

... sorry, I couldn't resist ;)

On 10/23/2019 8:27 AM, Casper wrote:
>
> Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
> more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
> only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
> thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.
>

They do that for energy savings. Same with dishwashers.

Does not bother me. When its done its done. Usually two loads in a
week so it if takes a long time the next one gets done tomorrow.

Dishwasher gets run either right after breakfast and they are done my
dinner time or it gets run sometime after dinner and it gets uloaded in
the morning.

At work it was about making money so I set production schedules. at
home, makes no difference unless you don't have clean panties.

> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,

Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]> wrote:

> Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
>joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
>screwed floors do NOT squeak.
>
I find this thread interesting. Over engineering and over building adds a
very small percentage of the overall cost to the project.

Detractor: "You could have gotten by with just using ___."

Me: "I didn't want to just get by, For $10, and an hour more work, I went
from adequate to overkill - that's cheap insurance and peace of mind - and
it looks damn good."
--
Jerry O.

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>>> > On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>>>> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>> >>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>> >>>>
>>>> >>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>> >>>
>>>> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>>> >> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>>> >> screwed on:
>>>> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>>>> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>>>> > plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>>>> > 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>>>> > built
>>>>
>>>> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>>>> Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
>>>> nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
>>>> ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
>>>> making this?
>>>>
>>>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
>>>> important with an impact driver, less important if anything.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Jack
>>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>>>
>>>IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.
>>
>>The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
>>on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.
>>
>>I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
>>and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
>>machine will product.
>>
>>And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.
> Are you sure?????
> Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
>joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
>screwed floors do NOT squeak.

Oh, you're assuming he has one of those modern cardboard houses.

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 7:29:44 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
> On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 5:14:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> >
> > BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?
>
> Gramps is a man. It's mandrill.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ma4ht93gYc

On Tuesday, October 22, 2019 at 5:48:29 PM UTC-4, Gramps' shop wrote:
> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and d=
ryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There=E2=80=
=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

I'm not sure it's a 'trick', but if you can get an attachment point overhea=
d, a wire-rope
comealong can lift and hold the weight of the frontloaders, then just posit=
ion the
platform and guide the item down onto it. Lag bolts in the ceiling joists=
?

<https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-cable-winch-puller-61964.html>

The problem I had, was how to attach the winch; it took a LOT of straps
and thought to affix a central eye for lifting, because of no handles. I =
put
loops around the feet, making a rope 'net' and fixing to a lifting bar whic=
h
was a scrap of 2x4 with C clamp eyes...

Ropes and cleats could work, but the ratchet is a great improvement. One-=
man
descent of the heavy washer down a concrete exterior stairwell was a lot
quicker and easier than the strap-up operation.

"Gramps' shop" wrote:

> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4,=20
Clare Snyder wrote:"I agree on pre-drilling "

>>>>> Really? How does one pre-drill? <<<<<<

" pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics.

"Drill before driving screw or nail" Wouldn't that be pre-driving or pre-cr=
ewing in that case.=20

If what you meant to say was "Drill before driving screw or nail" why not s=
imply say "I drilled hole prior to nailing or screwing the pieces together.

"pre- a prefix occurring originally in loanwords from Latin, where it meant=
=E2=80=9Cbefore=E2=80=9D (preclude; prevent); applied freely as a prefix, =
with the meanings =E2=80=9Cprior to,=E2=80=9D =E2=80=9Cin advance of,=E2=80=
=9D =E2=80=9Cearly,=E2=80=9D =E2=80=9Cbeforehand,=E2=80=9D =E2=80=9Cbefore,=
=E2=80=9D "

As they say KISS (principle).

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 15:14:55 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >
>> >> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,
>> >
>> >Really?
>> >
>> >How does one pre-drill?
>> >
>> >Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?
>> >
>> >Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?
>> >
>> >
>> pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
>> Drill before driving screw or nail.
>
>Don't we *always* drill before doing something with the hole?
>
No. The vast majority of wood screws are driven into virgin wood. I've
NEVER seen drywall screws go into a drilled hole. I've virtually never
seen deck screws put into a drilled hole. The vast majority of sheet
metal screws make their own hole. I've seen hundreds of lag bolts go
into beams without drilling holes. Most screw-in hooks go in without
drilling a hole
>When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt, should I say I
>pre-drilled?

ALL bolts need to have a drilled hole. Not all screws need a drilled
hole.
>
>When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it, should I say I
>pre-drilled?

Love to see you put a wire through just about anything without making
a hole first - whether you use a drill or an axe is up to you.
>
>When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw, should I say I
>pre-drilled?
>
>Even though the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact,
>to drill before driving a screw or nail, the basic semantics - "to drill
>before" doesn't really define what we are drilling "before".
>
>Isn't language fun? ;-)
>
>BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?

Generally it is hyphenated in North American english - can't speak for
the rest of the world but I suspect it is the same.

On Saturday, October 26, 2019 at 10:15:18 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>=20
> > On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
> >> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
> >> wrote:
> >>=20
> >>>On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
> >>><[email protected]> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wr=
ote:
> >>>>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
> >>>>>>=20
> >>>>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading wash=
er and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? The=
re=E2=80=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
> >>>>>>=20
> >>>>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
> >>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Df8PMv3_YkEw&t=3D146s>
> >>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DDUED5JCK8_4&t=3D131s>
> >>>>>=20
> >>>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 =
pounds
> >>>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.=20
> >>>>>=20
> >>>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end =
purpose.
> >>>>>=20
> >>>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
> >>>>
> >>>>Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
> >>>>would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
> >>>>screwed on:
> >>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DpiXXXpIniRw
> >>> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
> >>>plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
> >>>1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
> >>>built
> >>=20
> >> People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
> >> freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
> >> corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
> >> and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.
> >=20
> > Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.
> >=20
> > Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle=
,=20
> > with all the weight on one edge.
>=20
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3DliIlW-ovx0Y
>=20
> ... sorry, I couldn't resist ;)

You could have resisted.

(No, I couldn't)

Yes, you could have.

(No, no, I couldn't.)

I told you, you could have.

(No you didn't.)

Yes, I did!

(No you didn't.)

I did!

(You didn't.)

Did.

(Oh look, this isn't an argument.)

Yes it is.

On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,
>
>Really?
>
>How does one pre-drill?
>
>Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?
>
>Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?
>
>
pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
Drill before driving screw or nail.

On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Tilt it, get one end on it, then tilt it the other way and slide it.

Or chat up couple of bodybuilders from the local gym.

Or handtruck and _heave_.

Or make a ramp.

Or one of these, if you can rig something overhead to hook it onto.
<https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-ton-lever-chain-hoist-66106.html>
and a sling (handy thing to have--there are better brands if you don't
mind paying more for not-made-in-China).

Jack wrote:

[...]

> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.

... brads, but I get your point.
<https://www.youtube.com/embed/piXXXpIniRw?autoplay=1&start=351&end=367&rel=0>

On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Outside labor, two fellows ought to do. I built one for our old dryer,
it still sit unused.

On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,
>
>Really?
>
>How does one pre-drill?
>
>Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?
>
>Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?
>
>
New to woodworking? However, I see that you have your answer.
--
Jerry O.

On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 08:18:37 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>>>
>>>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>>
>>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>>
>>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>>
>>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>
>>> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>> screwed on:
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>> plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>> 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>> built
>
>The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
>nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
>ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
>making this?

Nails don't hold houses together. Weight holds everything together
and even then, there is a lot of glue in a house. Why would you ever
want to remove the top. Glue will greatly increase the dynamic load
strength of the platform. I might not even use the screws but glue?
Absolutely!

>Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
>important with an impact driver, less important if anything.

I don't think it matters as much, with the glue but I'd still
pre-drill.

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
<[email protected]> wrote:

>DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>> > "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>> >
>> > > The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>> >
>> > Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>> > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>
>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>
>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>
>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>
>Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>screwed on:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 14:15:14 +0000, Spalted Walt
<[email protected]> wrote:

>DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>> On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
>>> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>>>
>>>>>Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>>>>would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>>>>screwed on:
>>>>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>>>> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>>>>plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>>>>1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>>>>built
>>>
>>> People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
>>> freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
>>> corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
>>> and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.
>>
>> Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.
>>
>> Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
>> with all the weight on one edge.
>
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW-ovx0Y
>
>... sorry, I couldn't resist ;)

You're missing the point.

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), [email protected] wrote:
>
>>On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
>>> On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>>> > On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>>> > <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> >
>>> >> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>> >>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>> >>>>
>>> >>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>> >>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>> >>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>> >>>
>>> >>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>> >>
>>> >> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>> >> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>> >> screwed on:
>>> >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>>> > At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>>> > plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>>> > 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>>> > built
>>>
>>> The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>>> Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
>>> nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
>>> ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
>>> making this?
>>>
>>> Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
>>> important with an impact driver, less important if anything.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jack
>>> Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
>>
>>IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.
>
>The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
>on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.
>
>I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
>and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
>machine will product.
>
>And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.
Are you sure?????
Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
screwed floors do NOT squeak.

On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 08:18:37 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
>> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>>>
>>>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>>
>>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>>
>>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>>
>>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>>
>>> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>>> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>>> screwed on:
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
>> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
>> plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
>> 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
>> built
>
>The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
>Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
>nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
>ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
>making this?
>
>Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
>important with an impact driver, less important if anything.

If you are making it to last, the ability to take it apart is not
important. Glue and a few tacks would be stronger than nails or screws
- and NO chance of splitting. I agree when using an impact driver the
chance of splitting is slightly reduced - but pre-drilling realy does
make sense if you are screwing something together - and sometimes even
when nailing.

There comes a point however when "strong enough" IS strong enough -
and the advantage of glue over screws is hardly worth looking at.

On 10/23/2019 12:25 PM, knuttle wrote:
> On 10/22/2019 5:48 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer
>> and dryer.  Easy.  But how do I get the machines up on the platform?
>> There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>
> Our washer went south, and had to be replaced.  While waiting for the
> new one to be delivered, I considered all possible scenarios to get it
> out of the drip pan. (Its on the 2nd floor and the pan is drians to the
> sewer.)
>
> When the dryer was delivered I was prepared with all of the things
> needed to lift it up, and out of the pan.
>
> I showed the delivery man where it was to go.  He looked the situation
> over, and lifted the washer out of the pan an moved it down stairs.  So
> much for my concept of the problem.
>

You can learn a lot watching professional delivery men.

Takeway? Invest $20 or so in those web straps they use in tandem to
move heavy appliances, etc. They rest on their shoulders and function
as a sling to carry the load. Very little bending involved and it's
amazing how much two folks can carry when the weight is properly
distributed.

Takeway 2? Think outside the box and think the problem through. We had
a large double door refrigerator freezer (with the freezer drawer on the
bottom) delivered and I knew that there was no way the appliance could
be moved in with the doors in place due to the depth of the thing.

Guys show up, scope out the situation and one pulls out a screwdriver
and removes the handle on the freezer drawer only. They first opened
both doors of the refrigerator and slide in the doorway and then angled
the unit while closing the first door through the opening, jockeyed it a
bit and got the second door through the opening and the job was done.

Had it been me doing it, I'd probably have been trying to remove all the
handles (a real job a a French door refrigerator).

On 10/22/2019 5:48 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and=
dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There=E2=
=80=99s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>=20
Our washer went south, and had to be replaced. While waiting for the=20
new one to be delivered, I considered all possible scenarios to get it=20
out of the drip pan. (Its on the 2nd floor and the pan is drians to the=20
sewer.)

When the dryer was delivered I was prepared with all of the things=20
needed to lift it up, and out of the pan.

I showed the delivery man where it was to go. He looked the situation=20
over, and lifted the washer out of the pan an moved it down stairs. So=20
much for my concept of the problem.

On 10/22/2019 6:27 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>
> Tilt it, get one end on it, then tilt it the other way and slide it.

This was my approach. The dryer was easy. I was mostly able to pick the
whole thing up and wiggle it on the platform. The washer I tilted back
and with platform against the wall, I pushed/wiggled washer on.


>

On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
> On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>
>>> On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
>>>> "Gramps' shop" wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>>>>
>>>> Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s>
>>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s>
>>>
>>> Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
>>> on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.
>>>
>>> To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.
>>>
>>> Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.
>>
>> Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
>> would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
>> screwed on:
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
> At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
> plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
> 1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
> built

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 08:27:41 -0400, Casper <[email protected]>
wrote:

>>"Gramps' shop" <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>>The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
>
>I've seen these in a several places. I'm not trying to poke fun or be
>negative, but what purpose do these serve? Is this all about being
>vertically challenged?
>
>My mother wanted to raise hers and she's 5'3" no problem loading or
>unloading. The installers put the front loaders in a position where
>the two open doors are back to back forcing you to pull out and go
>around the doors to load the dryer. I went to get a door switch kit,
>but you can only do that on a dryer. I'm not able to move these units
>around, and the last time a paid guy did, they ripped up the new floor
>and it had to be replaced.
>
>Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
>more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
>only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
>thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.
I stacked ours. They were a matched pair of Samsungs. The washer went
TU just after it was off warranty so I replaced it with a Whirlpool
Duet and nhad to modify the stacking kit a bit. They are both left
hand door. Works great. Washer on bottom, drier on top

>"Gramps' shop" <[email protected]> was heard to mutter:
>The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

I've seen these in a several places. I'm not trying to poke fun or be
negative, but what purpose do these serve? Is this all about being
vertically challenged?

My mother wanted to raise hers and she's 5'3" no problem loading or
unloading. The installers put the front loaders in a position where
the two open doors are back to back forcing you to pull out and go
around the doors to load the dryer. I went to get a door switch kit,
but you can only do that on a dryer. I'm not able to move these units
around, and the last time a paid guy did, they ripped up the new floor
and it had to be replaced.

Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.

On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Figure out the weight and screw a hook into a 2x that supports the
ceiling, then use a rope block and tackle and a sling to lift the
dryer.

Just remember to move the dryer ductwork as needed.

If you have room, the tilt-one-end-up process also works, as does the
ramp. I used the tilt process to get a dryer in the tiny utility room
at my mother-in-law's house. It had brick walls, with a concrete
block first course, so the dryer had to be up 8+ inches to sit on
plywood resting on the edges of the concrete block. When she had the
dryer replaced, the delivery people had a hard time figuring out how
to get the old one out and the new one in ;-)