In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
"How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
but how much extra cord should one allow?
Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
of damage or old age.
As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
opinion on.
Thanks in advance for suggestions.
TMT
On 21 Oct 2005 09:16:20 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
>cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
>So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
>It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
>"How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>
>Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
>but how much extra cord should one allow?
>
>Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
>relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
>not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
>shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
>of damage or old age.
>
>As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
>currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
>the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
>opinion on.
>
>Thanks in advance for suggestions.
>
>TMT
I have found that with receptacles every 4 feet around the perimeter
in my shop that 6 foot long cords work the best. This allows me to
move the buffers, etc. to a position that works best. BTW, all my
receptacles are 4 feet up the wall too. Makes it much easier to plug
things in. If buying cord in bulk and making up cords with plugs you
install yourself it is often cheaper to but long extension cords and
cut them to length. As an example 14/3 orange bulk extension cord is
.39 per foot at the local hardware store. 100 foot long 14/3 orange
extension cords already made up is $14.89 or .1489 per foot.
ERS
I've noticed that some tools come with rather short cords. Things like
small hand-held circular saws etc.
The reasoning, I suspect, is that it's better for you to accidentally
chop up an extension cord rather than the one hardwired to the saw!
There are other tools where an overly-long cord attached to the tool
gets in the way of normal operation. Soldering irons especially. In
cases like this it's better to have a short cord on the hand-held part
and a longer cord on a stationary base.
Don't forget voltage drop etc too as a reason to keep cords only as
long as necessary.
Tim.
I've replaced the factory leads on some of my portable gear (table saws,
Chop saws and rolling bench gear) with auto rewind units. Bought the
ones you mount on the wall and simply reversed the connections with new
plug/sockets. Makes it easy to keep track of the cords and since they
are 50 foot long you seldom need an extension. I also have a heavy duty
one mounted on the portable welding table/MIG/TIG unit. Works great to
just roll it out and pull out what you need for the cord instead of
tripping over a long cord.
We also use the same type on a couple of our fire engines for portable
tools and lights. Makes it nice to use them that way. Just keep a rag
handy and wipe the cord down as it retracts to keep a lot of crud from
getting inside.
--
Steve Williams
"Robert Swinney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good that you are making sure you replace all cords with grounded
ones.
> IMO, you should use "standard" length cords; maybe slightly longer
ones on
> hand drills and other tools you may use on ladders. One of the
handiest
> long cords I have is on a Weller dual heat soldering gun. It is
better to
> keep a few extension cords on hand rather than dealing with the
clutter of
> over-long cords everywhere.
>
> Bob Swinney
>
> "Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> > cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
> >
> > So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
> >
> > It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like
asking
> > "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
> >
> > Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the
outlet
> > but how much extra cord should one allow?
> >
> > Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
> > relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had
may
> > not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
> > shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced
because
> > of damage or old age.
> >
> > As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for
the
> > currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types
but
> > the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
> > opinion on.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for suggestions.
> >
> > TMT
> >
>
>
>
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Get a higher current extension. Simple as that.
Sounds like the 100' (assumed it was foot not inch) was a 16 when a 12 was needed.
Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
Allen Parks wrote:
> An interesting thing happened the other day. My wife was cleaning mold off
> of a few of our 2 by 2 ft concrete patio stones with the pressure washer.
> It was no different then any other time but she was using a 100" extension
> this time. The washer would run for a minute or two or three then switch
> itself off, after waiting a bit it would do the same again, and again.
>
> I thought that it was simply shutting down as part of it's duty cycle but
> my wife (chief user) insisted that it had never done it before. After a
> little reading in the brochure I discovered that long extensions were not
> recommend as they were known to cause the motor to overheat.
>
> Shortened the extension and it never did it again. Go figure!
>
> Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>
>
>>In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
>>cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>>
>>So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>>
>>It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
>>"How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>>
>>Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
>>but how much extra cord should one allow?
>>
>>Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
>>relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
>>not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
>>shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
>>of damage or old age.
>>
>>As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
>>currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
>>the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
>>opinion on.
>>
>>Thanks in advance for suggestions.
>>
>>TMT
>
>
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The hot socket wasn't the extension cord issue - it was the socket and plug issue.
I suspect the socket was a bit stretched and wishy washy. Those heat up.
And the socket was a 15 amp socket (and plug) not a 20 amp socket and plug.
If the welder didn't function well - low arc... that would mean the copper loss
or simple ohms law voltage drop in the wire = current in the wire * resistance of the wire.
So simply have lower resistance (larger wire) and you get less voltage (drop).
Sometimes if you baby step up from 18 to 16 - when you need 12 - the drop is about the
same as the machine starts to work more and takes more.
Martin
Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
granpaw wrote:
> Allen Parks wrote:
>
>> An interesting thing happened the other day.
>
> Snipped story.
> While using a 100' 14/3 ext. cord with a 110V. welder out in the
> driveway I noticed almost too late the wall socket on fire at the plugin
> end.
> Moral of the story = 100' extension cords = dangerous crap in the hands
> of inexperienced people.
> and further, 14 guage cords for anything other than electronics, never
> again.
> granpaw
>
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If good practice is what you want then you will make sure no cord is
smaller than 12/2 with ground. And to connect the cord cap use a twist
lock . So many people go cheap cheap. And one of these day it will bite
you. May cost an extra $50 to do 10 or 12 gauge wire and twist lock but
these are not cords that are in an area of gentle use. How many times
have you .......
never mind . How many time have you seen someone just yank on the cord
to unplug it ? If you want to screw around with cheap go ahead but when
someone gets hurt ....... lets just hope it is not life threatening.
And if you use any of these tool on a construction site with smaller
than 12 wire it is against osha regs. Yup screw osha you know better.
Maybe a short list in order of importance should be.
Safety
Quality
durability
price
And in that order. Sorry for the rant but it hurts to see someone get
hurt using cords with duct tape or spliced with wire nuts .
Eric R Snow wrote:
> On 21 Oct 2005 09:16:20 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
>>cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>>
>>So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>>
>>It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
>>"How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>>
>>Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
>>but how much extra cord should one allow?
>>
>>Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
>>relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
>>not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
>>shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
>>of damage or old age.
>>
>>As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
>>currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
>>the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
>>opinion on.
>>
>>Thanks in advance for suggestions.
>>
>>TMT
>
> I have found that with receptacles every 4 feet around the perimeter
> in my shop that 6 foot long cords work the best. This allows me to
> move the buffers, etc. to a position that works best. BTW, all my
> receptacles are 4 feet up the wall too. Makes it much easier to plug
> things in. If buying cord in bulk and making up cords with plugs you
> install yourself it is often cheaper to but long extension cords and
> cut them to length. As an example 14/3 orange bulk extension cord is
> .39 per foot at the local hardware store. 100 foot long 14/3 orange
> extension cords already made up is $14.89 or .1489 per foot.
> ERS
You bet, that is what I do, buy a 25 foot 12 gage
cord and cut it up. For example, I rewired my
table saw and needed only a 6 foot cord to make a
4 foot connection(used the end with the plug),
then cut a 6 foot piece for an extension and used
the remainder (about 13 feet) for another
extension cord. The most expensive part was the
two male and two female connectors. With the
regular wire and a 6 foot and a 13 foot extension
cord I can select what I need to get the minimum
voltage drop.
As far as how long you make cords, your should
make them whatever is convenient for what you have
now or expect to have in less than 1 year. If
you need to slightly extend them later, put on a
new cord, or make short extension cords.
On 21 Oct 2005 09:16:20 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
>cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
>So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
>It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
>"How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
Perhaps I'm wrong, but I don't find it any more difficult than how
high you should build the workbench, or what color you should paint
it, or how flat it should be. All are personal adult decisions based
upon your personal needs. It's not rocket science.
Code says there should be a power receptacle about every six
feet along wall. Therefore power cords are generally about 6
feet long. Maybe 8 foot max to provide a margin of
adjustment.
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
> So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
> It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
> "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>
> Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
> but how much extra cord should one allow?
An interesting thing happened the other day. My wife was cleaning mold off
of a few of our 2 by 2 ft concrete patio stones with the pressure washer.
It was no different then any other time but she was using a 100" extension
this time. The washer would run for a minute or two or three then switch
itself off, after waiting a bit it would do the same again, and again.
I thought that it was simply shutting down as part of it's duty cycle but
my wife (chief user) insisted that it had never done it before. After a
little reading in the brochure I discovered that long extensions were not
recommend as they were known to cause the motor to overheat.
Shortened the extension and it never did it again. Go figure!
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
> So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
> It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
> "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>
> Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
> but how much extra cord should one allow?
>
> Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
> relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
> not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
> shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
> of damage or old age.
>
> As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
> currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
> the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
> opinion on.
>
> Thanks in advance for suggestions.
>
> TMT
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
> So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
> It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
> "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>
> Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
> but how much extra cord should one allow?
>
> Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
> relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
> not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
> shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
> of damage or old age.
>
> As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
> currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
> the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
> opinion on.
>
> Thanks in advance for suggestions.
>
> TMT
I tend to go for longer rather than shorter, as most machines I've wired
get moved around. Then if the cord is too long I'll just make a neat
coil under a bench or in a corner.
Chris
me wrote:
> On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 09:16:20 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote:
>
>
>>In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
>>cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>>
>>So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
>
> Only as long as necessary (or in other words, as short as possible).
>
> Are you talking about stationary equipment or portable?
>
> The longer the cord, the higher the resistance/voltage drop/wasted energy.
>
> For stationary equipment, you just want enough to safely route the
> cable to the outlet without straining it.
>
> If it is portable equipment, it depends upon how far from an outlet you
> are expecting to work. If you almost always work a few feet from an
> outlet, the standard 6' cord may suit you fine, using a proper extension
> cord on the few occasions that you need it. It would be silly and
> wasteful to wire all of your portable equipment with 30' cords so that an
> extension cord is never needed when you usually work right next to an
> outlet.
When I said "longer rather than shorter" I should have added that most
of my machines have 10' to 12' cords.
Chris
Chuck Sherwood wrote:
> >Why did the motor over heat? Does the loss of voltage across the line
> >automatically
> >cause a motor to overheat? I am sure it did, but it is not something
> >that I would
> >intuitively think.
>
> A motor needs power to do the job. P=V*I. If the voltage sags the
> motor draws more current to make the same power. The higher the
> current the more the motor heats up.
Thanks Chuck
I just did not think that 50 volts (whatever) would do much of a job trying
to push current through a cct designed for 110V.
May I say something else. Get a great power cord. Do not settle for
cheap crap. I accidentally ended up with 250 feet of 14/3 rubber
armored (not steel armored) cable. It was included in one of those
military surplus lots "batch lot on a pallet". It is very thick and
super well armored and very flexible. I was so stupid as to offer it
on ebay, but, fortunately, no one bid. I am now very glad that no one
took it from me. It makes superb power cable, extension cords, and
such. It is indestructible. You can probably buy something like that
for not too much if you look hard enough. I use it as power cord for
my grinding station that is on wheels.
i
Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
> So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
It depends on whether the equipment is stationary or portable.
Sight unseen, 25 ft of 12-2 /w/ ground, SJO cord should do a great job.
Lew
In general, long enough to reach an outlet in the most likely
places it will get used. Different tool family, different
lengths, most likely.
That -might- result in a re-think of the shop wiring: I've
found overhead outlets handy in the extreme. I use the conduit
type with the swinging ball joint at the ceiling box. Keep them
above head level and out of the way of wood movement though or
plan on tying them up out of the way. I put one purposely where
it'd be inthe way and then bungee'd it up out of the way - no
problem at all for the functionality I gained.
I also added two 25' reeled cords; also very handy.
Then I placed the Master switches in the shop just inside the
door to the laundry room - so I can know ALL power is off out
there without having to walk out. Painted all non-switched
outlets reddish orange, and added something noisy or that puts
out light to each one. Plus, a set of motion activated lights
to walk-thru on th eway to the garage.
I think I'm FINALLY read to start actually using my shop again
now! Wonder what I missed? Oh yeah, surface mount all wiring in
conduit; you won't be sorry down the road; made it real easy to
rewire a couple of things.
JM2C
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
: In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of
power
: cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
:
: So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
:
: It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's
like asking
: "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
:
: Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches
the outlet
: but how much extra cord should one allow?
:
: Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
: relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it
had may
: not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords
got
: shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced
because
: of damage or old age.
:
: As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate
for the
: currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation
types but
: the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have
your
: opinion on.
:
: Thanks in advance for suggestions.
:
: TMT
:
On a double insulated tool, what are you going to connect the ground wire
to? The plastic case?
"Robert Swinney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good that you are making sure you replace all cords with grounded ones.
> IMO, you should use "standard" length cords; maybe slightly longer ones on
> hand drills and other tools you may use on ladders. One of the handiest
> long cords I have is on a Weller dual heat soldering gun. It is better to
> keep a few extension cords on hand rather than dealing with the clutter
of
> over-long cords everywhere.
>
> Bob Swinney
>
> "Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> > cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
> >
> > So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
> >
> > It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
> > "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
> >
> > Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
> > but how much extra cord should one allow?
> >
> > Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
> > relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
> > not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
> > shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
> > of damage or old age.
> >
> > As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
> > currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
> > the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
> > opinion on.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for suggestions.
> >
> > TMT
> >
>
>
On Tue, 25 Oct 2005 13:46:00 -0400, Eddy Sams
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> Chuck Sherwood wrote:
>
>> >Why did the motor over heat? Does the loss of voltage across the line
>> >automatically
>> >cause a motor to overheat? I am sure it did, but it is not something
>> >that I would
>> >intuitively think.
>>
>> A motor needs power to do the job. P=V*I. If the voltage sags the
>> motor draws more current to make the same power. The higher the
>> current the more the motor heats up.
>
I thought the rule of thumb for power cords was the "Damn!" rule.
You know the one.
"Damn . . . if this cord were only six inches longer . . . . "
:)
In article <[email protected]>,
"Robert Swinney" <[email protected]> wrote:
> It is better to
> keep a few extension cords on hand rather than dealing with the clutter of
> over-long cords everywhere.
Yup. I hate clutter. I can't stand anything underfoot...'cept the rubber
anti-fatigue mats.
Most of my stuff runs along the ceiling with drop-downs here and there.
I have two retractable ones for power and one for air.
"Tim Shoppa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Don't forget voltage drop etc too as a reason to keep cords only as
> long as necessary.
>
Though there are no absolutes in the world, voltage drop is really not an
issue when talking about power cords as described by the OP. You've got to
get out to some distance before voltage drop is an issue and for the average
tool cord, it's just not going to be a factor. Having said that...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I replaced the cord on my TS with a foot long one. Makes it easy to move the
tool and I can unplug it easily. Then I have a big 10GA extension cord so I
can roll it out into the driveway to work.
May I suggest that if you are replacing them all that you go with a twist
lock.
-j
"Robert Swinney" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Good that you are making sure you replace all cords with grounded ones.
> IMO, you should use "standard" length cords; maybe slightly longer ones on
> hand drills and other tools you may use on ladders. One of the handiest
> long cords I have is on a Weller dual heat soldering gun. It is better to
> keep a few extension cords on hand rather than dealing with the clutter
of
> over-long cords everywhere.
>
> Bob Swinney
>
> "Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> > cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
> >
> > So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
> >
> > It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
> > "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
> >
> > Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
> > but how much extra cord should one allow?
> >
> > Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
> > relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
> > not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
> > shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
> > of damage or old age.
> >
> > As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
> > currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
> > the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
> > opinion on.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for suggestions.
> >
> > TMT
> >
>
>
"w_tom" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Code says there should be a power receptacle about every six
> feet along wall. Therefore power cords are generally about 6
> feet long. Maybe 8 foot max to provide a margin of....
While I think 8 is a good starting point, the distance between outlets is
not the only factor. Length of the stroke of the tool in use is a factor
too. Example: using a jigsaw to cut an arc for the toe-space apron of a
bookcase.
Better example: using your circular saw to rip a sheet of plywood. In
theory, you can do it with a <8' cord, in practice, you want 12'. 3' from
the wall to the sheet and then be able to rip away from the wall.
The 6' cord on my ROS is really inadequte; 8 would be OK; 10 would be
better. You need that much to get all the way around a full-size piece of
furniture.
My solution to this problem is a 10' HD extension cord. A 6' extension would
probably be better, but a 10 is what I have.
Steve
Allen Parks wrote:
> An interesting thing happened the other day.
Snipped story.
While using a 100' 14/3 ext. cord with a 110V. welder out in the
driveway I noticed almost too late the wall socket on fire at the plugin
end.
Moral of the story = 100' extension cords = dangerous crap in the hands
of inexperienced people.
and further, 14 guage cords for anything other than electronics, never
again.
granpaw
According to J <[email protected]>:
> I replaced the cord on my TS with a foot long one. Makes it easy to move the
> tool and I can unplug it easily. Then I have a big 10GA extension cord so I
> can roll it out into the driveway to work.
O.K. I was scratching my head over the "TS" above, thinking "A
powered Tailstock on his lathe?" -- and then I noticed that this is
cross-posted to the woodworking newsgroup. (I'm reading it in
rec.crafts.metalworking.)
> May I suggest that if you are replacing them all that you go with a twist
> lock.
Particularly nice with a drop from the ceiling to power a given
tool
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
According to Mike Marlow <[email protected]>:
>
> "Tim Shoppa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> >
> > Don't forget voltage drop etc too as a reason to keep cords only as
> > long as necessary.
> >
>
> Though there are no absolutes in the world, voltage drop is really not an
> issue when talking about power cords as described by the OP. You've got to
> get out to some distance before voltage drop is an issue and for the average
> tool cord, it's just not going to be a factor. Having said that...
That depends on the tool, of course. There was a mention of a
table saw being wheeled outdoors somewhere back in the thread (though I
think from some other than the OP), and some of those can be a
significant current draw. Most things which can be a serious draw in my
shop tend to be rather stationary (lathes, mills, etc). But if he is
using a serious sized welder on wheels, the current draw may call for
significantly larger wire.
From my own point of view, stationary tools want a cord just the
right length to reach neatly to the wall outlet or the permanent wiring
box. This might mean that it drops to the floor, runs flat, and then up
to the outlet, or that it goes to a strain relief on the ceiling, across
the ceiling, and down the wall to the outlet.
Portable tools may want a longer cord -- especially if the
weight of the cord and a plug in line can make manipulating the tool
more difficult. Such things as die grinders, Dremel tools (Foredom will
have a flex shaft, so that does not apply), soldering irons and similar.
For fine circuit work, it is nice to have the soldering iron's cord
supported by a pivoted overarm.
However -- tools likely to cut their own cord are better with a
short cord -- short enough so that the connector will be unable to get
into the path of the blade. And for those, a twist lock (as suggested
elsewhere by several) with a *good* strain relief for the cord are
probably the best choice.
As someone else mentioned -- what will you do with the ground
wire on double-insulated hand tools?
Something light enough to normally live in one place (say a
bench drill press), but to be possible to move at need, might want a
short cord with twist lock, joined to a longer cord to actually reach
the wall outlet. That way, when you move it for a special job, you
leave the existing power cord to the wall behind, and simply plug it
into one of the prepared extension cords.
If you go with the twist-lock -- make at least one short one
with the twist-lock male, and a standard duplex quad outlet box on the
other end for newly-acquired tools which have not yet been modified, or
for ones which have been borrowed or rented, and for which the actual
owner would not appreciate getting it back with a twist-lock connector. :-)
Anyway -- next hamfest, I'll be looking out for more good
twist-lock connectors. I'm slowly converting certain things to
twist-lock, including the floor-standing drill press, which is now
powered from a box screwed to the ceiling, with the other end plugged
into a normal duplex on the wall for the moment.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: <[email protected]> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
>Why did the motor over heat? Does the loss of voltage across the line
>automatically
>cause a motor to overheat? I am sure it did, but it is not something
>that I would
>intuitively think.
A motor needs power to do the job. P=V*I. If the voltage sags the
motor draws more current to make the same power. The higher the
current the more the motor heats up.
Chris Friesen wrote:
> granpaw wrote:
>
>> Moral of the story = 100' extension cords = dangerous crap in the
>> hands of inexperienced people.
>
>
> Heh...to have the same resistance as a 25' 14AWG cord, a 100' cord needs
> to be 8AwG.
>
> I don't think I've ever even *seen* an 8AWG extension cord.
>
> Chris
RV's have pretty large cords. My travel trailer
is only 30 amp, but I think the cord is either 10
or 8 gauge, Don't know what trailers and motor
homes with 50 amp service use, but it has to be a
minimum of 8 gauge, maybe 6 gauge. Course most
are only 25 feet long.
>So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
>It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
>"How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
It depends.
But, for simplicity's sake, I've built mine by taking the longer
dimesion of my shop (26' as it doubles as a garage (and no, my super
charged S2000 does NOT live outside)) , halving it and adding 4'.
Rounded up that's 18'. Everry cord can reach a socket.
My method.
Regards.
Tom
On 21 Oct 2005 09:16:20 -0700, "Too_Many_Tools"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
>cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
>So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
>It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
>"How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>
>Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
>but how much extra cord should one allow?
>
>Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
>relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
>not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
>shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
>of damage or old age.
>
>As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
>currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
>the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
>opinion on.
>
>Thanks in advance for suggestions.
>
>TMT
First, if any are stationary the answer is obvious, so I assume you
mean portable tools. These I would envision as being in mostly two
groups. First, those used mostly at your bench or otherwise in one
limited location and the other tools that you take to the work. For
the first group I would try to see how I am going to use the tool at
the given location, determine the length that will allow that use and
add a couple of feet. For tools that will usually be taken to the
work, I would use a short (under 12") cord. This is based on the fact
that you will almost always be using an extension cord anyway (unless
you make your cords just excessively long) and short cords are easy
when putting the tool away and are seldom cut accidently.
Dave Hall
On Fri, 21 Oct 2005 09:16:20 -0700, Too_Many_Tools wrote:
> In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
> So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
Only as long as necessary (or in other words, as short as possible).
Are you talking about stationary equipment or portable?
The longer the cord, the higher the resistance/voltage drop/wasted energy.
For stationary equipment, you just want enough to safely route the
cable to the outlet without straining it.
If it is portable equipment, it depends upon how far from an outlet you
are expecting to work. If you almost always work a few feet from an
outlet, the standard 6' cord may suit you fine, using a proper extension
cord on the few occasions that you need it. It would be silly and
wasteful to wire all of your portable equipment with 30' cords so that an
extension cord is never needed when you usually work right next to an
outlet.
And then the type of tool will also affect cord length requirements.
Something like a circular saw, where you are likely to be making long
strokes and want to keep the cord well out of the way, could benefit from
a significantly longer cord, or you'll end up using an extension cord
every time.
Then there's the issue of storing all of the cords on portable equipment,
budget, etc, etc.
BigBunion wrote:
> For the sake of easy and neat storage, you might consider putting just
> a 6" cord on each tool. More often than not I have to pull out an
> extension cord anyway, so it's not much extra work. It is definitely
> nice not to have to deal with a bunch of loose cords on the tool shelf.
>
Makes sense, except I'd make it a bit longer so
the connection isn't in the way. Probably the
worst choice is 6' which is the length of many
original cords.
Good that you are making sure you replace all cords with grounded ones.
IMO, you should use "standard" length cords; maybe slightly longer ones on
hand drills and other tools you may use on ladders. One of the handiest
long cords I have is on a Weller dual heat soldering gun. It is better to
keep a few extension cords on hand rather than dealing with the clutter of
over-long cords everywhere.
Bob Swinney
"Too_Many_Tools" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In about a month, I will be replacing a significant number of power
> cords on a variety of metal and wood working machines.
>
> So how long of a cord should a person replace them with?
>
> It's a harder question to answer than at first glance. It's like asking
> "How high should I build my workbench?"..it depends.
>
> Of course one should replace the cord so the new one reaches the outlet
> but how much extra cord should one allow?
>
> Over the years, machines have come with a variety of lengths in
> relation to their power cords so just replacing it with what it had may
> not be a good approach. When copper was expensive, the cords got
> shorter to save costs. And over the years, cords are replaced because
> of damage or old age.
>
> As a matter of good practice I will be installing wire adequate for the
> currents needed, using grounded plugs, appropiate insulation types but
> the simple question of "How Long?" is one I would like to have your
> opinion on.
>
> Thanks in advance for suggestions.
>
> TMT
>