A while back I posted a couple of questions on using hand planes in lieu of
a jointer to joint some large boards. I was faced with the need to joint up
some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try the
hand plane route. I went the way of a LN scrub, #7 jointer and LV 5 1/4 for
general use.
I wanted to thank all of the folks that repsonded to my queries and passed
on advice. While I won't claim to be an expert In a resonable amount of
time I am now able to joint the boards as needed. What has surprised me the
most is the relative ease of using the planes over trying to monkey the
boards accross the short bed jointer.
Besides a general thank you I also wanted to pass on to anyone else in a
similar predicament not to shy away from the hand plane route.
and for Mike in Mystic -- yes the LN planes offered an "ethereal experience"
Cheers
Eric (who now needs a bigger tool box -- being hooked on planes, the
collection is growing rapidly........)
> PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video production so
> low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners - as well as the ease
> of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful that ww video how-to's
> covering all sorts of basic and adv skills will be coming to market.
The cost of production hardware and software has come down over the years
but labour, packaging and distribution still make up the bulk of production
costs. Also, you won't find much on the market that's been burned on a home
DVD burner.
> >> PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video production
so
> >> low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners - as well as the
ease
> >> of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful that ww video how-to's
> >> covering all sorts of basic and adv skills will be coming to market.
> >
> >
> >The cost of production hardware and software has come down over the years
> >but labour, packaging and distribution still make up the bulk of
production
> >costs. Also, you won't find much on the market that's been burned on a
home
> >DVD burner.
> >
> All true. But, look at some of the woodworking websites done pro bono --
> lots of time and some website skills. Look at woodshopdemos.com.
I agree with you that the cost of consumer level and even prosumer level
production costs are relatively low, but the OP mentioned he was hopeful
these videos were "coming to market" by which I assumed he meant a
commercial product.
> One last bit is to make sure you lube the sole of the plane -- I was using
> paste wax but was recently guided to using harder wax. The difference is
> night and day -- the first time I used a waxed 7 (after using unwaxed
since
> I bought it) I almost threw is across the room as it just flew across the
> board with a lot less effort -- really reduces the work load.....
Interesting. I've been using soft paste wax and my planes have yet to fly.
What brand of harder wax are you using?
"mp" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > One last bit is to make sure you lube the sole of the plane -- I was using
> > paste wax but was recently guided to using harder wax. The difference is
> > night and day -- the first time I used a waxed 7 (after using unwaxed
> since
> > I bought it) I almost threw is across the room as it just flew across the
> > board with a lot less effort -- really reduces the work load.....
>
> Interesting. I've been using soft paste wax and my planes have yet to fly.
> What brand of harder wax are you using?
FWIW, I use paraffin (from the canning section of the grocery
store) on my plane soles, and my planes levitate. :-)
I just "draw" a couple of "S" shapes on the sole with a hunk of the
stuff that I always keep on my bench. It never gets sticky and it
takes about a second to renew.
Chuck Vance
patriarch <<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> I think the best opportunity here is likely non-commercial, and web-based.
> Packaging and distribution costs are modest to non-existant, and most of
> the potential 'producers' are the same sorts of folks that put up the
> marvelous web sites we see today. And most of them do it for the joy of
> sharing their craft, and seeing skills passed on to others.
Most free or low cost web hosts will not support streaming video. I
think you're getting into serious money when you pay to have that
support, which has nothing to do with production costs.
Bob
"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> A while back I posted a couple of questions on using hand planes in lieu of
> a jointer to joint some large boards. I was faced with the need to joint up
> some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
> moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try the
> hand plane route. I went the way of a LN scrub, #7 jointer and LV 5 1/4 for
> general use.
I like the way you saved $1100 on the big old jointer and only spent
$900 instead. :-)
Actually, I bet you spent more because of that hand plane addiction
you know have.
So what did you do for the place to hold down those 8' long boards?
Is a new fancy workbench in the offing?
Bob
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 15:23:34 GMT, patriarch
<<patriarch>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I think the best opportunity here is likely non-commercial, and web-based.
>Packaging and distribution costs are modest to non-existant, and most of
>the potential 'producers' are the same sorts of folks that put up the
>marvelous web sites we see today. And most of them do it for the joy of
>sharing their craft, and seeing skills passed on to others.
Exactly.
>
>However, don't understimate the costs of even modest video editing gear.
>While I have a very well-equipped shop, with very few missing capital power
>tools, I believe that my sons' video editing setups likely cost easily as
>much. And the video investment depreciates much more rapidly than a 3hp
>cabinet saw. If there were not a commercial aspect to it, it would be a
>VERY expensive hobby.
Well, for home-made stuff, video software (to be run on a mid-level
Pentium4 machine) can be had for <$100. The software will let you take
clips, cut them, and then stitch each segment together. All with sound.
And, even with background music!!! OTOH, I am sure your son's stuff is on
the sophisticated side. Maybe a Binford?
BTW, while you are certainly correct about the *market value* depreciation
of software, if it still does the job then it works for me. I use vintage
1995 CAD software for design and generation of patent drawings and 1995 PIM
software for my address book, journal, and data organization, and they work
(and are the most stable stuff I have) even on XP machines. (Both
companies went out of business, so updates ain't available.) -- Igor
As someone who can barely manage to use a hand plane to fix a sticking
door, I greatly appreciate your post. It follows another recent post that
referenced some sources on how to learn to use a hand plane. I am truly
stumped as to how 8' boards can be successfully jointed by anyone but a
very experienced ww'er, and all the more so by your story. I AM intrigued.
Thanks for taking the time to relate your experience. -- Igor
PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video production so
low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners - as well as the ease
of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful that ww video how-to's
covering all sorts of basic and adv skills will be coming to market.
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 21:11:20 -0400, "Sam the Cat"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>A while back I posted a couple of questions on using hand planes in lieu of
>a jointer to joint some large boards. I was faced with the need to joint up
>some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
>moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try the
>hand plane route. I went the way of a LN scrub, #7 jointer and LV 5 1/4 for
>general use.
>
>I wanted to thank all of the folks that repsonded to my queries and passed
>on advice. While I won't claim to be an expert In a resonable amount of
>time I am now able to joint the boards as needed. What has surprised me the
>most is the relative ease of using the planes over trying to monkey the
>boards accross the short bed jointer.
>
>Besides a general thank you I also wanted to pass on to anyone else in a
>similar predicament not to shy away from the hand plane route.
>
>and for Mike in Mystic -- yes the LN planes offered an "ethereal experience"
>
>Cheers
>Eric (who now needs a bigger tool box -- being hooked on planes, the
>collection is growing rapidly........)
>
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi Sam,
>
> Glad to hear your hand-planing is going so well. I'm sure using all the
L-N
> planes has been a wonderful experience for you. Since the last discussion
I
> ordered a L-N 4.5 smoother and have again been absolutely stunned. I have
a
> Steve Knight smoother as well, and several old Stanley's. The SK gives
> exceptional results - no argument there - and I love to use it, too. I
have
> to say, however, that holding the hefty iron of the L-N gives me a bit
more
> satisfaction. My biggest dilemma these days is 1) learning how to use the
> planes more adeptly and 2) coming up with a good storage solution for
them.
> I'm trying to take my time and want to build a very polished and
customized
> wall cabinet for the planes and all my chisels and hand tools. Due to
lack
> of storage space I pretty much just leave out the 4.5, LA Jack and my
block
> planes. Gotta remidy the situation ASAP.
>
> Good job on the jointing and keep having fun.
>
> Mike
>
>
Mike,
As to #2 we are in the same boat -- nice tools need a nice home. Over
the past year I have spent a considerable chunk of change to obtain nice
chisels, hand saws and now planes. I recently bought the book on toolboxes
and have been dreaming up a good storage solution. I am not sure if I will
go cabinet or box quite yet and I have a kitchen to put the final touches on
so it will be a little while till I get to the tool box.
Yeah the 4.5 from LN is very nice -- as is their service. I discovered
earlier this week that I had a broken "frog hold down pin" -- within two
emails with no proof from me that I indeed had really purchased anything,
replacement pins are on the way. Nice way to do business.
Cheers
Sam
> > Try using liquid parafin wax, aka "lamp oil". Your plane will fly
> > right out of your hand if you're not careful.
>
> Lamp oil is usually kerosene. The British call kerosene "paraffin" which
> might be the cause of your confusion.
He might also mean cheap modern lamp oil that is not kerosene. Comes in many
colors, does not smell like hell itself... you know...
Alex
Hi Sam,
Glad to hear your hand-planing is going so well. I'm sure using all the L-N
planes has been a wonderful experience for you. Since the last discussion I
ordered a L-N 4.5 smoother and have again been absolutely stunned. I have a
Steve Knight smoother as well, and several old Stanley's. The SK gives
exceptional results - no argument there - and I love to use it, too. I have
to say, however, that holding the hefty iron of the L-N gives me a bit more
satisfaction. My biggest dilemma these days is 1) learning how to use the
planes more adeptly and 2) coming up with a good storage solution for them.
I'm trying to take my time and want to build a very polished and customized
wall cabinet for the planes and all my chisels and hand tools. Due to lack
of storage space I pretty much just leave out the 4.5, LA Jack and my block
planes. Gotta remidy the situation ASAP.
Good job on the jointing and keep having fun.
Mike
mp
An old candle (from Ikea if LMOL remembers correctly)
Cheers
"mp" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > One last bit is to make sure you lube the sole of the plane -- I was
using
> > paste wax but was recently guided to using harder wax. The difference
is
> > night and day -- the first time I used a waxed 7 (after using unwaxed
> since
> > I bought it) I almost threw is across the room as it just flew across
the
> > board with a lot less effort -- really reduces the work load.....
>
> Interesting. I've been using soft paste wax and my planes have yet to fly.
> What brand of harder wax are you using?
>
>
"mp" <[email protected]> wrote in news:[email protected]:
>> PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video
>> production so low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners -
>> as well as the ease of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful
>> that ww video how-to's covering all sorts of basic and adv skills
>> will be coming to market.
>
>
> The cost of production hardware and software has come down over the
> years but labour, packaging and distribution still make up the bulk of
> production costs. Also, you won't find much on the market that's been
> burned on a home DVD burner.
I think the best opportunity here is likely non-commercial, and web-based.
Packaging and distribution costs are modest to non-existant, and most of
the potential 'producers' are the same sorts of folks that put up the
marvelous web sites we see today. And most of them do it for the joy of
sharing their craft, and seeing skills passed on to others.
However, don't understimate the costs of even modest video editing gear.
While I have a very well-equipped shop, with very few missing capital power
tools, I believe that my sons' video editing setups likely cost easily as
much. And the video investment depreciates much more rapidly than a 3hp
cabinet saw. If there were not a commercial aspect to it, it would be a
VERY expensive hobby.
Patriarch
igor <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>>
>>However, don't understimate the costs of even modest video editing
>>gear. While I have a very well-equipped shop, with very few missing
>>capital power tools, I believe that my sons' video editing setups
>>likely cost easily as much. And the video investment depreciates much
>>more rapidly than a 3hp cabinet saw. If there were not a commercial
>>aspect to it, it would be a VERY expensive hobby.
>
> Well, for home-made stuff, video software (to be run on a mid-level
> Pentium4 machine) can be had for <$100. The software will let you
> take clips, cut them, and then stitch each segment together. All with
> sound. And, even with background music!!! OTOH, I am sure your son's
> stuff is on the sophisticated side. Maybe a Binford?
>
Multiple multi-processor Macs, multiple monitors each. Cameras, recorders,
mikes, lights, hardware stands, lots of software, etc. And also many of
the same tools running in the Windows environment, with associated
hardware, etc.
So, yes. A Binford. But they are doing commercial work...
Start up costs are really in the becoming proficient process - the learning
curve. Making video look like it was shot by someone who didn't start
yesterday is not a simple process.
But then, designing a custom display cabinet isn't either.
Patriarch,
who's a little bit proud of our boys...
Layne <> wrote:
> Try using liquid parafin wax, aka "lamp oil". Your plane will fly
> right out of your hand if you're not careful.
Lamp oil is usually kerosene. The British call kerosene "paraffin" which
might be the cause of your confusion.
> Layne
>
> On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 18:46:08 -0700, "mp" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>> One last bit is to make sure you lube the sole of the plane -- I was
>>> using
>>> paste wax but was recently guided to using harder wax. The difference
>>> is night and day -- the first time I used a waxed 7 (after using unwaxed
>>since
>>> I bought it) I almost threw is across the room as it just flew across
>>> the board with a lot less effort -- really reduces the work load.....
>>
>>Interesting. I've been using soft paste wax and my planes have yet to fly.
>>What brand of harder wax are you using?
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
AArDvarK wrote:
>
>> > Try using liquid parafin wax, aka "lamp oil". Your plane will fly
>> > right out of your hand if you're not careful.
>>
>> Lamp oil is usually kerosene. The British call kerosene "paraffin" which
>> might be the cause of your confusion.
>
> He might also mean cheap modern lamp oil that is not kerosene. Comes in
> many colors, does not smell like hell itself... you know...
You mean the kind that lists on the label one ingredient, "odorless
petroleum distillate, similar to kerosene"?
> Alex
--
--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
igor <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> As someone who can barely manage to use a hand plane to fix a sticking
> door, I greatly appreciate your post. It follows another recent post that
> referenced some sources on how to learn to use a hand plane. I am truly
> stumped as to how 8' boards can be successfully jointed by anyone but a
> very experienced ww'er, and all the more so by your story. I AM intrigued.
> Thanks for taking the time to relate your experience. -- Igor
I found that edge jointing with a long hand plane (#8C in my case) is
surprisingly easy. However, face jointing is much trickier, i.m.e.
In either case, you need a sharp iron and you need to read the grain.
> PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video production so
> low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners - as well as the ease
> of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful that ww video how-to's
> covering all sorts of basic and adv skills will be coming to market.
Many already exist. Search (the web) and ye shall find.
Cheers,
Mike
On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 21:16:55 -0400, Roy Smith <[email protected]> wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
> "Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I was faced with the need to joint up
>> some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
>> moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try the
>> hand plane route.
>
>I've got this bizarre picture in my head of some techo-neaderthal with a
>huge slab of lumber clamped in a vice. He's holding a 8" jointer upside
>down in one hand and running it over the edge of the board like a huge
>handplane.
>
>Must be too much caffeine, or too little, or something.
if it was O'Deen, he'd be doing it with one hand....
Sam the Cat wrote:
> As to #2 we are in the same boat -- nice tools need a nice home. Over
> the past year I have spent a considerable chunk of change to obtain nice
> chisels, hand saws and now planes. I recently bought the book on toolboxes
> and have been dreaming up a good storage solution.
By any chance, Jim Tolpin's Toolbox Book?? I'm going to build a
variation of the wall-mounted toolbox for planes and chisels..perhaps
two. It is very similar to a design I was planning on my own, mounted
on french cleats and thus easily movable (not considering the weight)
> I am not sure if I will
> go cabinet or box quite yet and I have a kitchen to put the final touches on
> so it will be a little while till I get to the tool box.
I chose the cabinet because it will keep the handtools close at hand
right at the end of the workbench.
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 09:37:52 -0700, "mp" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>I agree with you that the cost of consumer level and even prosumer level
>production costs are relatively low, but the OP mentioned he was hopeful
>these videos were "coming to market" by which I assumed he meant a
>commercial product.
>
Actually, it wasn't the OP who said that. It was I. No biggie. -- Igor
I'm not sure where this thread is going, but...
I'm no expert, but I can joint the boards for a table top quite well
and quite accurately with an old, wooden jointing plane and a shooting
board. It's no big deal...doesn't require years of skill, just a
little thought and planning.
In fact, I have a shooting board clamped to my workbench all the time
and often use it rather than walking over to the jointer.
That's not to say I don't use the jointer...I do. But edge jointing
with a plane allows me to make very fine adjustments that are
difficult with the jointer. And the quality of the jointed surface is
far, far better than the machine-jointed surface.
DaveinFLL
==========================
It's not the heat, it's the humidity!
==========================
(..Think the humidity's bad?
You should watch us vote!)
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 08:05:28 -0700, "mp" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video production so
>> low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners - as well as the ease
>> of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful that ww video how-to's
>> covering all sorts of basic and adv skills will be coming to market.
>
>
>The cost of production hardware and software has come down over the years
>but labour, packaging and distribution still make up the bulk of production
>costs. Also, you won't find much on the market that's been burned on a home
>DVD burner.
>
All true. But, look at some of the woodworking websites done pro bono --
lots of time and some website skills. Look at woodshopdemos.com.
Packaging and distribution can be done easily, IMO. Of course, "easily" is
essentially a relative term. The remaining issue is (and will be) time.
All I'm saying is that for someone inclined to spend the time, the options
are there at very little out-of-pocket expense. Like the person here who
until recently sold a shim for a biscuit joiner. And with broadband
connections and easy setup credit card-taking options such as Yahoo Stores,
I think that home-made video how-to's can become a good cottage industry.
And, some might like to offer it for free on-line, especially as bandwidth
costs drop. Think about the people here who, when asked, or just on their
own, take and post photos of their jigs, for example. I can certainly see
someone here posting a short video showing how they sharpen their chisels.
Anyway, IMO. -- Igor
Try using liquid parafin wax, aka "lamp oil". Your plane will fly
right out of your hand if you're not careful.
Layne
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 18:46:08 -0700, "mp" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> One last bit is to make sure you lube the sole of the plane -- I was using
>> paste wax but was recently guided to using harder wax. The difference is
>> night and day -- the first time I used a waxed 7 (after using unwaxed
>since
>> I bought it) I almost threw is across the room as it just flew across the
>> board with a lot less effort -- really reduces the work load.....
>
>Interesting. I've been using soft paste wax and my planes have yet to fly.
>What brand of harder wax are you using?
It doesn't take a very experienced WWer to joint 8' boards at all. I'm
a total neophyte and jointed 5' boards square and straight with a #6
plane. The key is a well tuned plane set to shave the finest shaving
possible. I used a vintage Stanley with stock iron to plane tissue
thin shavings. I'm not trying to brag, but rather telling you it's not
rocket science. A bit of skill and knowledge is required, but it's not
*that* much. I think too many people are intimidated by it all when
they really shouldn't be.
Layne
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 14:36:34 GMT, igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>referenced some sources on how to learn to use a hand plane. I am truly
>stumped as to how 8' boards can be successfully jointed by anyone but a
>very experienced ww'er, and all the more so by your story. I AM intrigued.
>Thanks for taking the time to relate your experience. -- Igor
"Bob Davis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:<[email protected]>...
>
> > A while back I posted a couple of questions on using hand planes in lieu
of
> > a jointer to joint some large boards. I was faced with the need to
joint up
> > some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
> > moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try
the
> > hand plane route. I went the way of a LN scrub, #7 jointer and LV 5 1/4
for
> > general use.
>
> I like the way you saved $1100 on the big old jointer and only spent
> $900 instead. :-)
>
> Actually, I bet you spent more because of that hand plane addiction
> you know have.
>
> So what did you do for the place to hold down those 8' long boards?
> Is a new fancy workbench in the offing?
>
> Bob
Bob,
The bench was last summers project ;)
Cheers
I was nervous as well Igor, especially since the #7 I bought from LieNeilson
cost as much as my 13" lunchbox planer from delta!
If you want to get started there are a couple pieces of advice I'd pass on
from my _month_ of experience ;) If you do not have someone readily
available to show you the way then buy yourself a _nice_ plane. Get a LN or
a LV, both work like a dream right out of the box. This will give you a
sense of how it should work, then if you want to go the refurb route you'll
know when you got it right. The next thing to note is how fine a cut the
plane can make (this took me a while to figure out) You will make piles of
little curlies and think you are wasting wood away, until you put one of
those curlies in calipers -- on average I hit 0.005". Once I realized this
I went back to the catalogs and found the scrub plane -- best investment.
Only used for removing a lot of wood, this light weight beast can get you in
the ball park of flat before the jointer takes over. I usually use three
planes, the scrub, then a 5.25 followed by the 7 jointer. Each one is
heavier and longer than the last and thus takes more energy to use. Using
the scrub to get in the ball park really helps. I relate this to using 80
to 100 grit sandpaper to "get it right" then the higher grits to smooth
things out.
One last bit is to make sure you lube the sole of the plane -- I was using
paste wax but was recently guided to using harder wax. The difference is
night and day -- the first time I used a waxed 7 (after using unwaxed since
I bought it) I almost threw is across the room as it just flew across the
board with a lot less effort -- really reduces the work load.....
Cheers
"igor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> As someone who can barely manage to use a hand plane to fix a sticking
> door, I greatly appreciate your post. It follows another recent post that
> referenced some sources on how to learn to use a hand plane. I am truly
> stumped as to how 8' boards can be successfully jointed by anyone but a
> very experienced ww'er, and all the more so by your story. I AM
intrigued.
> Thanks for taking the time to relate your experience. -- Igor
>
> PS: These days, with the out-of-pocket costs of basic video production so
> low - from camera to desktop editing to DVD burners - as well as the ease
> of posting sample clips on-line, I am hopeful that ww video how-to's
> covering all sorts of basic and adv skills will be coming to market.
>
>
> On Wed, 11 Aug 2004 21:11:20 -0400, "Sam the Cat"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >A while back I posted a couple of questions on using hand planes in lieu
of
> >a jointer to joint some large boards. I was faced with the need to joint
up
> >some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
> >moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try the
> >hand plane route. I went the way of a LN scrub, #7 jointer and LV 5 1/4
for
> >general use.
> >
> >I wanted to thank all of the folks that repsonded to my queries and
passed
> >on advice. While I won't claim to be an expert In a resonable amount of
> >time I am now able to joint the boards as needed. What has surprised me
the
> >most is the relative ease of using the planes over trying to monkey the
> >boards accross the short bed jointer.
> >
> >Besides a general thank you I also wanted to pass on to anyone else in a
> >similar predicament not to shy away from the hand plane route.
> >
> >and for Mike in Mystic -- yes the LN planes offered an "ethereal
experience"
> >
> >Cheers
> >Eric (who now needs a bigger tool box -- being hooked on planes, the
> >collection is growing rapidly........)
> >
>
In article <[email protected]>,
"Sam the Cat" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I was faced with the need to joint up
> some 8' long pieces on a 44" bed length 6" jointer. I was considering
> moving up to an 72" bed on an 8" jointer (powematic) but opted to try the
> hand plane route.
I've got this bizarre picture in my head of some techo-neaderthal with a
huge slab of lumber clamped in a vice. He's holding a 8" jointer upside
down in one hand and running it over the edge of the board like a huge
handplane.
Must be too much caffeine, or too little, or something.
On Thu, 12 Aug 2004 14:36:34 GMT, igor <[email protected]> wrote:
>As someone who can barely manage to use a hand plane to fix a sticking
>door, I greatly appreciate your post. It follows another recent post that
>referenced some sources on how to learn to use a hand plane.
I bet your plane is not a great plane and that is the start of the trouble.
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/handtools.pl?noframes;#43012
http://www.amgron.clara.net/
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.