I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past 15
years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
work-ability)?
Thank you!
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
www.woodworkinghobby.com
On Dec 17, 6:11=EF=BF=BDam, "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past =
15
> years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
> lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
> woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
> work-ability)?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworkerwww.woodworkinghobby.com
Use epoxy, and be sure to wipe the teak with acetone, just before
glueing.
Cliff
NoOne N Particular took a can of maroon spray paint on December 17, 2007
01:54 pm and wrote the following:
> . . . I would use SS screws and towels construction with epoxy.
>>
> You gotta know this is coming. What do the TOWELS do????? ROFLMAO.
>
Wipe up the glue, after putting in the brads of course.
;-)
--
Lits Slut #9
Life would be so much easier if we could just look at the source code.
Teak wood contains oil. When stress joints are needed epoxy is not enough
because oil contained in the teak wood will not allow for a strong bonding.
Washing the wood with acetone will not remove all the oil from the teak. In
your case I would use SS screws and towels construction with epoxy. As
stated before, washing the teak with acetone prior to using epoxy is
recommended. I do not know your design. If you are using strips of 8/4
side by side to make a board I would use a long enough SS bolt through or a
threaded rod C'Bored on both side with teak plugs and epoxy.
I get very good results making teak plugs with a taper cutter. If not you
can buy standard teak plugs at your local marine store.
"sailor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:07e60b76-ecf8-4de7-b7ad-8de23c6ba788@d27g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
On Dec 17, 6:11?am, "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past
> 15
> years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
> lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
> woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
> work-ability)?
>
> Thank you!
>
> Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworkerwww.woodworkinghobby.com
Use epoxy, and be sure to wipe the teak with acetone, just before
glueing.
Cliff
Yes, after reading the post I realized that "towels" should have read
"Dowels".
More so I should have said "Expansible wooden Dowel Pins"
"NoOne N Particular" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>. . . I would use SS screws and towels construction with epoxy.
>>
> You gotta know this is coming. What do the TOWELS do????? ROFLMAO.
>
> Wayne
"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 06:11:56 -0500, "Dennis" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past
>>15
>>years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
>>lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
>>woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
>>work-ability)?
>>
>>Thank you!
>>
>>Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
>>www.woodworkinghobby.com
>>
>>
> About 1995, I did a glue up with biscuits on 3/4" thk. solid teak
> hatch boards for the main hatch of my sailboat. Three angled boards
> with one side continuously exposed to weather. Used titebond II with
> no real confidence that I would get more than a few years out of the
> boards. Sold the boat in '97 and, since I live 300 miles away, lost
> contact. This past summer, the boat showed up at Bay Springs Marina
> about 25 miles from my house so I asked the current owner if I could
> come aboard to take a look at how my work had held up (I had done a
> complete refit including an Imron paint job in '95). Those same hatch
> boards were still in use and the glue was holding fine.
>
> Titebond III might even be better, it wasn't around back then. Keep
> in mind though, I'm not sure that it was supposed to work.
>
> An anecdotal sample of one.
>
> Frank
I have used both Titebond ll and lll. Like you I have made new main hatch
doors for my previous sailboat. I learned that Titebond ll and lll are good
above the water line. See http: //www.diybanter.com/showthread.php
t=75955&page=2 .
However, for building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak my choice would be
epoxy reenforced with mechanical fastening devices. Because the bow pulpit
is subjected to the sailboat weight, windage, wave actions compounded by the
anchor, the length of the scope and other imponderable factors.
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 17:31:59 -0400, <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Frank Boettcher" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 06:11:56 -0500, "Dennis" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past
>>>15
>>>years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
>>>lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
>>>woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
>>>work-ability)?
>>>
>>>Thank you!
>>>
>>>Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
>>>www.woodworkinghobby.com
>>>
>>>
>> About 1995, I did a glue up with biscuits on 3/4" thk. solid teak
>> hatch boards for the main hatch of my sailboat. Three angled boards
>> with one side continuously exposed to weather. Used titebond II with
>> no real confidence that I would get more than a few years out of the
>> boards. Sold the boat in '97 and, since I live 300 miles away, lost
>> contact. This past summer, the boat showed up at Bay Springs Marina
>> about 25 miles from my house so I asked the current owner if I could
>> come aboard to take a look at how my work had held up (I had done a
>> complete refit including an Imron paint job in '95). Those same hatch
>> boards were still in use and the glue was holding fine.
>>
>> Titebond III might even be better, it wasn't around back then. Keep
>> in mind though, I'm not sure that it was supposed to work.
>>
>> An anecdotal sample of one.
>>
>> Frank
>I have used both Titebond ll and lll. Like you I have made new main hatch
>doors for my previous sailboat. I learned that Titebond ll and lll are good
>above the water line. See http: //www.diybanter.com/showthread.php
>t=75955&page=2 .
>
>However, for building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak my choice would be
>epoxy reenforced with mechanical fastening devices. Because the bow pulpit
>is subjected to the sailboat weight, windage, wave actions compounded by the
>anchor, the length of the scope and other imponderable factors.
>
You could be right, depends on the design. If it sits on or in a
stainless steel structural grid with the chain roller attached to it
and that takes all the stress, the wood becomes just for looks. If
not, epoxy probably best bet.
Frank
On Dec 17, 2:49 pm, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:
[snipped for brevity]
> (I had done a
> complete refit including an Imron paint job in '95).
I hope you read the MSDS on that stuff....wait... you must have, you
are still here...
To all who took the time to reply to my post:
Thank you !!
I have not dismantled the old unit as I write, but I suspect that the
"dowels" we see on the outside are in fact "plugs" hiding some type of
mechanical fastening system. The advice of epoxy and stainless fastening
hardware takes the prize! We do need water resistance and structural
integrity for the heavy anchor. You all serve the group well. I will share
some before and after photos over the next week or so when we get it
completed. Thanks again!
Dennis
Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
www.woodworkinghobby.com
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Teak wood contains oil. When stress joints are needed epoxy is not enough
> because oil contained in the teak wood will not allow for a strong
> bonding. Washing the wood with acetone will not remove all the oil from
> the teak. In your case I would use SS screws and towels construction with
> epoxy. As stated before, washing the teak with acetone prior to using
> epoxy is recommended. I do not know your design. If you are using strips
> of 8/4 side by side to make a board I would use a long enough SS bolt
> through or a threaded rod C'Bored on both side with teak plugs and epoxy.
> I get very good results making teak plugs with a taper cutter. If not you
> can buy standard teak plugs at your local marine store.
>
> "sailor" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:07e60b76-ecf8-4de7-b7ad-8de23c6ba788@d27g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
> On Dec 17, 6:11?am, "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past
>> 15
>> years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
>> lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
>> woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
>> work-ability)?
>>
>> Thank you!
>>
>> Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworkerwww.woodworkinghobby.com
>
> Use epoxy, and be sure to wipe the teak with acetone, just before
> glueing.
>
> Cliff
>
>
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 06:11:56 -0500, "Dennis" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I don't work in teak and have not done any marine woodworking in the past 15
>years. We are building a new anchor pulpit out of 8/4 teak (done in a
>lamination of 1 and 2" strips with dowels). Do we have any marine
>woodworkers in the group to advise on the best glue (strength and
>work-ability)?
>
>Thank you!
>
>Dennis Slabaugh, Hobbyist Woodworker
>www.woodworkinghobby.com
>
>
About 1995, I did a glue up with biscuits on 3/4" thk. solid teak
hatch boards for the main hatch of my sailboat. Three angled boards
with one side continuously exposed to weather. Used titebond II with
no real confidence that I would get more than a few years out of the
boards. Sold the boat in '97 and, since I live 300 miles away, lost
contact. This past summer, the boat showed up at Bay Springs Marina
about 25 miles from my house so I asked the current owner if I could
come aboard to take a look at how my work had held up (I had done a
complete refit including an Imron paint job in '95). Those same hatch
boards were still in use and the glue was holding fine.
Titebond III might even be better, it wasn't around back then. Keep
in mind though, I'm not sure that it was supposed to work.
An anecdotal sample of one.
Frank
On Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:19:36 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Dec 17, 2:49 pm, Frank Boettcher <[email protected]> wrote:
>[snipped for brevity]
>
>> (I had done a
>> complete refit including an Imron paint job in '95).
>
>I hope you read the MSDS on that stuff....wait... you must have, you
>are still here...
Yep, cat/poly is bad stuff if you're not careful, I was fully and
appropriately safety equipped and, of course, this job was done
outside. I had already done a couple of trucks with it, so had some
experience. It is very easy to use but the vapors are not certainly
not fit for inhalation.
What I find amazing is that anyone could buy it back then and the body
shop supply places didn't even give you MSDS sheets or even warn you
about it.
Frank