I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for storage
overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's a
major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
course.
So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would allow me
to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters as
required BTW.
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 00:28:11 -0400, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>The stuff would probably sit 2 or 3 feet from the rafters. Max weight would
>be 500 pounds, likely much less. The weight would also be close to a wall,
>as opposed to the center of the span. I would also suspend the rack from
>2x4s above the rafters, so as to distribute the weight across several
>rafters.
>I've got a couple of boat winches (2000 lbs) that I used for a project in
>the basement.
>
>I'm having a little trouble picturing the sling though. Assuming my pulleys
>(2 pairs) are 8' apart this would limit my lift to 4' (cable joins)? The
>second problem would be the distance between the center pulley and the cable
>joints for the other pulleys. Not to mention the full weight would hang from
>the center pulley until locked.
>
> My ascii art below:
>
> 0 (Main pulley)
> |
> |
> |
> / \ (Cable join (1 of 2))
> / \
> / \
> / \
> ===0=============0=== (Rafters with pulleys - one side)
> | |
> | |
> | |
> | |
> ------------------------------- (rack - one side)
>
>
Ya got me, here. I imagined the rack to have sling(s) that were fixed.
One wire from each corner, pyramidding to a central eye, so the rack
hangs from the eye. Attach a hook to the eye and use whatever to lift
the hook on a rope/wire through a roof-hung pulley etc. The limit of
the height you can go to is the attachemnt point height minus the
height of the sling(s). No joins etc. Single "rope" lift. Machinery to
suit.
To paraphrase your ASCII art <G>
Roof or ceiling ______________________________
| __________________ rope
0 (Main pulley) |
| | rope
|rope |
| |
/ \ Machinery (winch etc)at floor
/ \ level
/ \
/ \
------------------------------- (rack - one side)
If you used pulleys and a multi-sheave purchase, then you need to
replace my single "rope" with the parts of the purchase.
BTW, for any lifting, make sure you lead the power out from under the
load. If you use pulleys, make sure you have an automatic rope cleat
etc, and plenty of purchase. I was warning about rope more for the
slings than the main line BTW. They could be under a lot of strain.
*****************************************************
Have you noticed that people always run from what
they _need_ toward what they want?????
You will need to add sufficient support. Ask an engineer. I would suggest
using an electric wench coupled with a swinging davit, boom or I beam and
trolley. Imagine lifting a 200 lb something up and then attempting to slide
it onto a platform? (Or getting it off.)
BTW Boat wenches do not provide descent stopping like an electric wench or
chain-hoist.
Dave
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for
> storage
> overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's a
> major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
> course.
>
> So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would allow me
> to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters as
> required BTW.
>
>
>
Bill, I'm not pulling your leg. You are not putting the stuff on top of the
roof. As I understand what you said in previous replies, you plan a max of
500lbs setting on top of the rafters? I think you mean joists or the bottom
chord of a truss(s), or do you plan to construct a platform (rack) that
hangs from the actual rafter or top chord of a truss? Either way, if they
are 2x4s, they do not hold much weight when spanned over 5'.
My main point was moving the load up and down and side to side.
I have a loft above my shop, accessible via a 6'x8' opening.
I lift stuff up and down via a electric wench. Similar to this one.
http://www.gowarn.com/H1000-ac-warn-works-hoist.asp
However, faced with the problem of how to swing heavy items, suspended 10'
above the floor, onto the loft floor. I solved this by putting in a small
I-beam and trolley system.
Sorry if my previous post was confusing.
Dave
>Bill Said:"
>The stuff would probably sit 2 or 3 feet from the rafters. Max weight would
>be 500 pounds, likely much less. The weight would also be close to a wall,
>as opposed to the center of the span. I would also suspend the rack from
>2x4s above the rafters, so as to distribute the weight across several
>rafters.
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> You will need to add sufficient support. Ask an engineer. I would
> suggest
>> using an electric wench coupled with a swinging davit, boom or I beam and
>> trolley. Imagine lifting a 200 lb something up and then attempting to
> slide
>> it onto a platform? (Or getting it off.)
>
> I trust your pulling my leg. The roof is rated for 50 lbs per sq ft of
> snow
> load. So 200 pounds over 40 sq ft won't make a dint. But I plan to sister
> the 2x4s in any event.
>
>> BTW Boat wenches do not provide descent stopping like an electric wench
>> or
>> chain-hoist.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>> "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>> > I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for
>> > storage
>> > overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's
>> > a
>> > major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
>> > course.
>> >
>> > So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would allow
> me
>> > to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters
> as
>> > required BTW.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 23:55:29 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>That's what I thought. That would certainly make for one hell of a ride
>lowering down 500lbs of lumber from the rafters.
But no more than getting it up there. I would select the winch so I
was not breaking my arm to raise the load.
*****************************************************
Have you noticed that people always run from what
they _need_ toward what they want?????
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> You will need to add sufficient support. Ask an engineer. I would
suggest
> using an electric wench coupled with a swinging davit, boom or I beam and
> trolley. Imagine lifting a 200 lb something up and then attempting to
slide
> it onto a platform? (Or getting it off.)
I trust your pulling my leg. The roof is rated for 50 lbs per sq ft of snow
load. So 200 pounds over 40 sq ft won't make a dint. But I plan to sister
the 2x4s in any event.
> BTW Boat wenches do not provide descent stopping like an electric wench or
> chain-hoist.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for
> > storage
> > overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's a
> > major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
> > course.
> >
> > So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would allow
me
> > to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters
as
> > required BTW.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for
> storage
> overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's a
> major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
> course.
>
> So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would allow me
> to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters as
> required BTW.
>
>
>
No plans for you but...
If the rack + contents will weigh more than you, you'll need either a
powered hoist or a block/tackle arrangement. After you pick, it mostly
pulleys, no?
"Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > If you have a few feet (3 maybe) then use steel cable to form a sling
> > > and a single winch as you suggested. You can buy boat winches for
> > > quite cheap, depending on the load you need.
> >
> > Do boat winches allow you to unload the winch in a controlled manner? I
> > thought they just free wheeled when you reversed them.
>
> Ever see the Magpie/Duck/Coyote/Tasmanian Devil take it on the chin? These
> were boat winches. :) Definitely want a firm grip on the handle when you
> release the cog.
>
That's what I thought. That would certainly make for one hell of a ride
lowering down 500lbs of lumber from the rafters.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Bruce Hooke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I agree with Dave. If the ceiling of your garage is built with trusses, as
> most garages are, then you could easily run into major problems if you put
> much downward load on the bottom chords, which are typically 2x4's. These
> chords are designed to be tension members not vertically loaded beams, so
> they are not usually designed to take much downward load. This is
especially
> true of the connections commonly used to connect the bottom chord to the
> members above it. The beauty of a truss is that each member can be
> relatively weak because of the way the loads are transferred, but this
only
> works if the loads come from the intended direction, which in this case
> means from the top of the truss down. If you can tell who made the trusses
> you might be able to get some information about how much vertical load the
> bottom chords are designed to carry.
Point taken. I think I need a simpler solution. Perhaps just a rack about 7'
up, supported by the wall on one side and some 2x4s screwed/glued to the
full depth of the truss (not bottom) on the other side.
> If I were trying to do what you are trying to do I would look into putting
> in an independent pair of beams that span from wall to wall (or some other
> vertical support going down to the floor) and then hang the lift off those
> beams and leave the trusses out of the picture completely. Engineering
such
> beams to carry the necessary load is likely to be a lot simpler and safer
> than reworking the trusses.
>
> As to the cable arrangement, what I would try to do is have a pulley above
> each corner of the lift and then put the pulley that turns the cable back
> down towards the floor as far from the lift as possible. That way you can
> bring the four corner cables together between the four corner pulleys and
> the single pulley that turns the cable back down to the winch.
>
> On my hand boat winch you have to lift a cam to release the winch and to
> lift this cam you have to take all the load off the cam by cranking on the
> handle a little. At that point you should have the load under control and
> the key thing you would need to be careful of as you let it down is that
you
> can keep the handle under control, which can be a little tricky as the
load
> on your arm shifts from tension to compression as the handle goes around.
> I've done this with a suspended load, but its not something I would want
to
> do regularly. So, a winch with a true controlled reverse would be very
nice.
>
> I would want to be VERY sure about the system used to lock the thing in
> place when it is up. If it came loose with someone underneath it the
results
> would likely be fatal. If you look at the fine print that comes with most
> cable hardware I think you will see that it is not rated to either hoist
> people or hold loads above people. There are good reasons why this sort of
> situation is treated very carefully.
>
> - Bruce
>
> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Bill, I'm not pulling your leg. You are not putting the stuff on top of
> > the roof. As I understand what you said in previous replies, you plan a
> > max of 500lbs setting on top of the rafters? I think you mean joists or
> > the bottom chord of a truss(s), or do you plan to construct a platform
> > (rack) that hangs from the actual rafter or top chord of a truss?
Either
> > way, if they are 2x4s, they do not hold much weight when spanned over
5'.
> >
> > My main point was moving the load up and down and side to side.
> >
> > I have a loft above my shop, accessible via a 6'x8' opening.
> > I lift stuff up and down via a electric wench. Similar to this one.
> > http://www.gowarn.com/H1000-ac-warn-works-hoist.asp
> >
> > However, faced with the problem of how to swing heavy items, suspended
10'
> > above the floor, onto the loft floor. I solved this by putting in a
small
> > I-beam and trolley system.
> >
> > Sorry if my previous post was confusing.
> > Dave
> >
> >
> >>Bill Said:"
> >>The stuff would probably sit 2 or 3 feet from the rafters. Max weight
> >>would
> >>be 500 pounds, likely much less. The weight would also be close to a
wall,
> >>as opposed to the center of the span. I would also suspend the rack from
> >>2x4s above the rafters, so as to distribute the weight across several
> >>rafters.
> >
> > "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >>> You will need to add sufficient support. Ask an engineer. I would
> >> suggest
> >>> using an electric wench coupled with a swinging davit, boom or I beam
> >>> and
> >>> trolley. Imagine lifting a 200 lb something up and then attempting to
> >> slide
> >>> it onto a platform? (Or getting it off.)
> >>
> >> I trust your pulling my leg. The roof is rated for 50 lbs per sq ft of
> >> snow
> >> load. So 200 pounds over 40 sq ft won't make a dint. But I plan to
sister
> >> the 2x4s in any event.
> >>
> >>> BTW Boat wenches do not provide descent stopping like an electric
wench
> >>> or
> >>> chain-hoist.
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>> news:[email protected]...
> >>> > I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for
> >>> > storage
> >>> > overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but
it's
> >>> > a
> >>> > major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go
of
> >>> > course.
> >>> >
> >>> > So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would
> >>> > allow
> >> me
> >>> > to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the
rafters
> >> as
> >>> > required BTW.
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>> >
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
"Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 21:37:31 -0400, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
> vaguely proposed a theory
> ......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
> How far from the ceiling is the rack going to sit? How much weight are
> you going to put up there?
The stuff would probably sit 2 or 3 feet from the rafters. Max weight would
be 500 pounds, likely much less. The weight would also be close to a wall,
as opposed to the center of the span. I would also suspend the rack from
2x4s above the rafters, so as to distribute the weight across several
rafters.
> If you have a few feet (3 maybe) then use steel cable to form a sling
> and a single winch as you suggested. You can buy boat winches for
> quite cheap, depending on the load you need. The sling wires' strength
> will need to allow for your load and the angle they lie at. The
> shallower they lie the greater the strain on them. Shallow angles will
> also tend to bend the rack, so allow for that.
I've got a couple of boat winches (2000 lbs) that I used for a project in
the basement.
I'm having a little trouble picturing the sling though. Assuming my pulleys
(2 pairs) are 8' apart this would limit my lift to 4' (cable joins)? The
second problem would be the distance between the center pulley and the cable
joints for the other pulleys. Not to mention the full weight would hang from
the center pulley until locked.
My ascii art below:
0 (Main pulley)
|
|
|
/ \ (Cable join (1 of 2))
/ \
/ \
/ \
===0=============0=== (Rafters with pulleys - one side)
| |
| |
| |
| |
------------------------------- (rack - one side)
This is what I imagine one half of the pulleys to look like. Perhaps I could
replace the cable join above with a hanging pulley? So I would only need two
pieces of cable to attach the rack, rather than four. I'd be concerned that
this might tip though?
> Do not use rope, and do not rely on the sling, winch etc to hold the
> load up there once it's up. It needs to be locked in place by bolts or
> chains.
Good point.
> >I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for
storage
> >overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's a
> >major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
> >course.
> >
> >So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would allow
me
> >to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters as
> >required BTW.
> >
> >
>
> *****************************************************
> Have you noticed that people always run from what
> they _need_ toward what they want?????
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 06:40:35 -0400, "Norman D. Crow"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Haha! Yes! And catching on the sides of its gallery unless it's
leading absolutely fair into it etc etc....
The only one I have seen that overcame all this had a winding handle
(ratcheting actually) instead of a chain.......but of course the
handle was on the hoist which was 12' up in the air....
>Don't forget the chain rattling all over the edges of the wood, and finding
>every random little projection to catch on, making you stop and release it.
>
>In a previous life, many engine pull/install/swap/etc. in SIL's garage with
>an I-beam trolley chain hoist, wishing every time we had a nice electric
>chain hoist/winch.
*****************************************************
Have you noticed that people always run from what
they _need_ toward what they want?????
"Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 23:55:29 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
> <[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
> ......and in reply I say!:
>
> remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
> Having said what I have said, raising 500lb up to the roof is not
> going to be easy on a budget IMO anyway.
>
> I do take the point about the chain hoist. They are much safer. The
> only trouble I have with them is that you are standing right under the
> load, unless you set up some sort of chain loop system off to one
> side.
Don't forget the chain rattling all over the edges of the wood, and finding
every random little projection to catch on, making you stop and release it.
In a previous life, many engine pull/install/swap/etc. in SIL's garage with
an I-beam trolley chain hoist, wishing every time we had a nice electric
chain hoist/winch.
--
Nahmie
The law of intelligent tinkering: save all the parts.
I agree with Dave. If the ceiling of your garage is built with trusses, as
most garages are, then you could easily run into major problems if you put
much downward load on the bottom chords, which are typically 2x4's. These
chords are designed to be tension members not vertically loaded beams, so
they are not usually designed to take much downward load. This is especially
true of the connections commonly used to connect the bottom chord to the
members above it. The beauty of a truss is that each member can be
relatively weak because of the way the loads are transferred, but this only
works if the loads come from the intended direction, which in this case
means from the top of the truss down. If you can tell who made the trusses
you might be able to get some information about how much vertical load the
bottom chords are designed to carry.
If I were trying to do what you are trying to do I would look into putting
in an independent pair of beams that span from wall to wall (or some other
vertical support going down to the floor) and then hang the lift off those
beams and leave the trusses out of the picture completely. Engineering such
beams to carry the necessary load is likely to be a lot simpler and safer
than reworking the trusses.
As to the cable arrangement, what I would try to do is have a pulley above
each corner of the lift and then put the pulley that turns the cable back
down towards the floor as far from the lift as possible. That way you can
bring the four corner cables together between the four corner pulleys and
the single pulley that turns the cable back down to the winch.
On my hand boat winch you have to lift a cam to release the winch and to
lift this cam you have to take all the load off the cam by cranking on the
handle a little. At that point you should have the load under control and
the key thing you would need to be careful of as you let it down is that you
can keep the handle under control, which can be a little tricky as the load
on your arm shifts from tension to compression as the handle goes around.
I've done this with a suspended load, but its not something I would want to
do regularly. So, a winch with a true controlled reverse would be very nice.
I would want to be VERY sure about the system used to lock the thing in
place when it is up. If it came loose with someone underneath it the results
would likely be fatal. If you look at the fine print that comes with most
cable hardware I think you will see that it is not rated to either hoist
people or hold loads above people. There are good reasons why this sort of
situation is treated very carefully.
- Bruce
"TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bill, I'm not pulling your leg. You are not putting the stuff on top of
> the roof. As I understand what you said in previous replies, you plan a
> max of 500lbs setting on top of the rafters? I think you mean joists or
> the bottom chord of a truss(s), or do you plan to construct a platform
> (rack) that hangs from the actual rafter or top chord of a truss? Either
> way, if they are 2x4s, they do not hold much weight when spanned over 5'.
>
> My main point was moving the load up and down and side to side.
>
> I have a loft above my shop, accessible via a 6'x8' opening.
> I lift stuff up and down via a electric wench. Similar to this one.
> http://www.gowarn.com/H1000-ac-warn-works-hoist.asp
>
> However, faced with the problem of how to swing heavy items, suspended 10'
> above the floor, onto the loft floor. I solved this by putting in a small
> I-beam and trolley system.
>
> Sorry if my previous post was confusing.
> Dave
>
>
>>Bill Said:"
>>The stuff would probably sit 2 or 3 feet from the rafters. Max weight
>>would
>>be 500 pounds, likely much less. The weight would also be close to a wall,
>>as opposed to the center of the span. I would also suspend the rack from
>>2x4s above the rafters, so as to distribute the weight across several
>>rafters.
>
> "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "TeamCasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> You will need to add sufficient support. Ask an engineer. I would
>> suggest
>>> using an electric wench coupled with a swinging davit, boom or I beam
>>> and
>>> trolley. Imagine lifting a 200 lb something up and then attempting to
>> slide
>>> it onto a platform? (Or getting it off.)
>>
>> I trust your pulling my leg. The roof is rated for 50 lbs per sq ft of
>> snow
>> load. So 200 pounds over 40 sq ft won't make a dint. But I plan to sister
>> the 2x4s in any event.
>>
>>> BTW Boat wenches do not provide descent stopping like an electric wench
>>> or
>>> chain-hoist.
>>>
>>> Dave
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> "Bill Stock" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>> > I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for
>>> > storage
>>> > overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's
>>> > a
>>> > major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
>>> > course.
>>> >
>>> > So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would
>>> > allow
>> me
>>> > to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters
>> as
>>> > required BTW.
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > If you have a few feet (3 maybe) then use steel cable to form a sling
> > and a single winch as you suggested. You can buy boat winches for
> > quite cheap, depending on the load you need.
>
> Do boat winches allow you to unload the winch in a controlled manner? I
> thought they just free wheeled when you reversed them.
Ever see the Magpie/Duck/Coyote/Tasmanian Devil take it on the chin? These
were boat winches. :) Definitely want a firm grip on the handle when you
release the cog.
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>
On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 21:37:31 -0400, "Bill Stock" <[email protected]>
vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
How far from the ceiling is the rack going to sit? How much weight are
you going to put up there?
If you have a few feet (3 maybe) then use steel cable to form a sling
and a single winch as you suggested. You can buy boat winches for
quite cheap, depending on the load you need. The sling wires' strength
will need to allow for your load and the angle they lie at. The
shallower they lie the greater the strain on them. Shallow angles will
also tend to bend the rack, so allow for that.
Do not use rope, and do not rely on the sling, winch etc to hold the
load up there once it's up. It needs to be locked in place by bolts or
chains.
>I've got a 12' ceiling in the garage, so there is plenty of room for storage
>overhead. There's already some crap stored above the rafters, but it's a
>major hassle to get longer items up there. Plus plywood is a no go of
>course.
>
>So does anyone have a simple lift idea (single winch), that would allow me
>to raise a lower a storage rack (5x8). I plan to reinforce the rafters as
>required BTW.
>
>
*****************************************************
Have you noticed that people always run from what
they _need_ toward what they want?????
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 13:54:36 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> If you have a few feet (3 maybe) then use steel cable to form a sling
>> and a single winch as you suggested. You can buy boat winches for
>> quite cheap, depending on the load you need.
>
>Do boat winches allow you to unload the winch in a controlled manner? I
>thought they just free wheeled when you reversed them.
I don't know about boat winches, but chain hoists do:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=996
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 13:54:36 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
>
>"Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> If you have a few feet (3 maybe) then use steel cable to form a sling
>> and a single winch as you suggested. You can buy boat winches for
>> quite cheap, depending on the load you need.
>
>Do boat winches allow you to unload the winch in a controlled manner? I
>thought they just free wheeled when you reversed them.
mmm....Good point. But I have one manually operated one that will
allow rolling and unrolling. It has a two-way ratchet system. I have
seen a Jarrett (sp) one that had a free-wheel release. Just a clutch.
The electric ones usually have a clutch and yes they do let go. What I
did (elcheapo down push on a tractor-mounted post hole borer) was
remove the ratchet (or the snazzy little one-way bearing in one winch
that I have), set up relays that reverse connect the motor, to allow
full control in both directions. Shorting the motor terminal also is a
very effective brake on the winch I have set up. In fact I am looking
at setting up a variable load to provide controlled release, for
another use..
*****************************************************
Have you noticed that people always run from what
they _need_ toward what they want?????
On Mon, 11 Oct 2004 23:55:29 GMT, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> vaguely proposed a theory
......and in reply I say!:
remove ns from my header address to reply via email
Having said what I have said, raising 500lb up to the roof is not
going to be easy on a budget IMO anyway.
I do take the point about the chain hoist. They are much safer. The
only trouble I have with them is that you are standing right under the
load, unless you set up some sort of chain loop system off to one
side.
>That's what I thought. That would certainly make for one hell of a ride
>lowering down 500lbs of lumber from the rafters.
*****************************************************
Have you noticed that people always run from what
they _need_ toward what they want?????
"Old Nick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> If you have a few feet (3 maybe) then use steel cable to form a sling
> and a single winch as you suggested. You can buy boat winches for
> quite cheap, depending on the load you need.
Do boat winches allow you to unload the winch in a controlled manner? I
thought they just free wheeled when you reversed them.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]