Ok this is pretty simple but works flawlessly. I was cutting tennons on the
TS and had the rip fence set as my guide for the length of the tennon. Of
course the tennons were about 125/256" long, not 1/2", that would have been
too easy. Any way I discovered that I needed to cut some more stock and I
would need to return to the previous fence setting. Tough to repeat. So I
put my Bessey Revo 12" clamp to work, clamped to the fence rail and indexed
squarely against the "t" on the fence. Repeat setting, no problem.
Also I am building some tall cabinets and have 8 frame and panel sides.
There are 3 different style sides that go together and keeping up with the
pieces and in what order they need to stay in was going to be a job in it
self. Why not dry assemble and leave it that way and also be able to move
the panels around the shop? Shrink Wrap, the industrial version of the
stuff you cover your dishes with in the kitchen works great. It is light
weight, clamps securely and is CHEAP.
Pictures, if you need a picture are posted at a.b.p.w.
"Leon" wrote
> Shrink Wrap, the industrial version of the stuff you cover your dishes
> with in the kitchen works great. It is light weight, clamps securely and
> is CHEAP.
>
I was working on a job and was given, by a salesman, a box of the shrinkwrap
tape. It comes in rolls and was about 4 inches wide. The boss gave it to me
when I left. I didn't know where I would use it but I did not want to throw
it away. A few months later, I moved. I could not believe all the
places/times/etc that stuff came in handy. I still have a couple rolls of
that stuff around here somewhere.
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'll quite often use the magnetic base from my dial indicator (similar to
> the way you used your Bessey clamp) on the cast iron table surface (can't
> do that with a granite top!) to establish a reference position for the
> fence. Sometimes (depending on what I'm doing) it's possible to then use
> my brass setup gauges (or even some pieces of 1/4" or 1/2" MDF) to
> position the fence some known distance away from the "reference point",
> then easily return to it later on. Pretty handy.
I have tried different similar methods and used rare earth magnets. I
managed to knock the magnets out of place. The Bessey clamp seems to hold
well with out having to crank down. The Bessey clamp is pretty serious
about not moving until you release the pressure. Clamps with smaller
clamping areas did not do well either. That is just my experience, if your
on/off magnet works well for you, you have a tool that is again useful to
you. ;~)
"Lee Michaels" <leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote
>> Shrink Wrap, the industrial version of the stuff you cover your dishes
>> with in the kitchen works great. It is light weight, clamps securely and
>> is CHEAP.
>>
> I was working on a job and was given, by a salesman, a box of the
> shrinkwrap tape. It comes in rolls and was about 4 inches wide. The boss
> gave it to me when I left. I didn't know where I would use it but I did
> not want to throw it away. A few months later, I moved. I could not
> believe all the places/times/etc that stuff came in handy. I still have a
> couple rolls of that stuff around here somewhere.
>
>
>
Having been in the whole sale shipping business many years ago we went
through the 18" wide rolls on a weekly basis. I am using a 6" roll with a
handle.
Leon wrote:
> Ok this is pretty simple but works flawlessly. I was cutting tennons on the
> TS and had the rip fence set as my guide for the length of the tennon. Of
> course the tennons were about 125/256" long, not 1/2", that would have been
> too easy. Any way I discovered that I needed to cut some more stock and I
> would need to return to the previous fence setting. Tough to repeat. So I
> put my Bessey Revo 12" clamp to work, clamped to the fence rail and indexed
> squarely against the "t" on the fence. Repeat setting, no problem.
>
> Also I am building some tall cabinets and have 8 frame and panel sides.
> There are 3 different style sides that go together and keeping up with the
> pieces and in what order they need to stay in was going to be a job in it
> self. Why not dry assemble and leave it that way and also be able to move
> the panels around the shop? Shrink Wrap, the industrial version of the
> stuff you cover your dishes with in the kitchen works great. It is light
> weight, clamps securely and is CHEAP.
>
> Pictures, if you need a picture are posted at a.b.p.w.
>
Nice.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> Ok this is pretty simple but works flawlessly. I was cutting tennons on the
> TS and had the rip fence set as my guide for the length of the tennon. Of
> course the tennons were about 125/256" long, not 1/2", that would have been
> too easy. Any way I discovered that I needed to cut some more stock and I
> would need to return to the previous fence setting. Tough to repeat. So I
> put my Bessey Revo 12" clamp to work, clamped to the fence rail and indexed
> squarely against the "t" on the fence. Repeat setting, no problem.
>
> Also I am building some tall cabinets and have 8 frame and panel sides.
> There are 3 different style sides that go together and keeping up with the
> pieces and in what order they need to stay in was going to be a job in it
> self. Why not dry assemble and leave it that way and also be able to move
> the panels around the shop? Shrink Wrap, the industrial version of the
> stuff you cover your dishes with in the kitchen works great. It is light
> weight, clamps securely and is CHEAP.
>
> Pictures, if you need a picture are posted at a.b.p.w.
I'll quite often use the magnetic base from my dial indicator (similar
to the way you used your Bessey clamp) on the cast iron table surface
(can't do that with a granite top!) to establish a reference position
for the fence. Sometimes (depending on what I'm doing) it's possible to
then use my brass setup gauges (or even some pieces of 1/4" or 1/2" MDF)
to position the fence some known distance away from the "reference
point", then easily return to it later on. Pretty handy.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Leon wrote:
> "Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'll quite often use the magnetic base from my dial indicator (similar to
>> the way you used your Bessey clamp) on the cast iron table surface (can't
>> do that with a granite top!) to establish a reference position for the
>> fence. Sometimes (depending on what I'm doing) it's possible to then use
>> my brass setup gauges (or even some pieces of 1/4" or 1/2" MDF) to
>> position the fence some known distance away from the "reference point",
>> then easily return to it later on. Pretty handy.
>
>
> I have tried different similar methods and used rare earth magnets. I
> managed to knock the magnets out of place. The Bessey clamp seems to hold
> well with out having to crank down. The Bessey clamp is pretty serious
> about not moving until you release the pressure. Clamps with smaller
> clamping areas did not do well either. That is just my experience, if your
> on/off magnet works well for you, you have a tool that is again useful to
> you. ;~)
I have the Unifence on my Unisaw, so it's a bit lighter than a Beisemeyer style and maybe
not quite so prone to knocking the magnet out of place. Still, the magnets in the dial
indicator base are pretty serious, and I think it would take one hell of a knock to move it.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/