I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
drill - am I just up the creek?
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
Les
"Robatoy" <Counterfitter@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:88c43d7a-c74b-4d75-80f4-407478349762@o6g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
On Aug 13, 9:43 am, LesT <l-th...@onu.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 13, 7:52 am, "d.williams" <wil...@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the good advice - I'm considering the best
> solutions given here and other forums and I'll let you know
> how things work out.
>
> Les
1/3 HP and a 3-1/2" hole saw in maple? The second that hole-saw hits
the wood, things will come to a dead stop. BTDT.
Even a proper 3/4 HP to 1 HP DP with reduction down to 200 RPM would
make that a tedious, smoky job.
Morris' suggestion is by far the better choice. (As per usual <G>)
==============================
Yep, I had to drill lots of holes in metal with a hole saw. The job needed
to be done within a day or two and I was on a very short timeline. And the
drill was too fast too. My solution was to just squirt lots of lube on the
thing and wear a mask with a fan going over the work. It smoked like a
chimney. It got the job done. I went out and bought a proper drill press
after that job.
We can all make do. But the proper tool can make pleasurable what was total
agony before. BTDT
On Aug 12, 10:53=A0pm, Morris Dovey <mrdo...@iedu.com> wrote:
> LesT wrote:
> > Concerning the depth of hole, I'll be drilling hard maple or baltic
> > birch ply 1/2" thick. I'm working on making a wine cabinet and using
> > maple or ply slats with half moons removed to cradle the wine
> > bottles. I had planned to make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2"
> > holes in the 1/2" pieces and then cutting them down the center.
>
> Have you considered making a template and routing the holes?
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Yes, that has crossed my mind, but the hole saw would be
so much quicker. What do think about really securing a setup
to the table of the drill press into which I can fit the piece to
be drilled - how dangerous is operating the hole saw at 620 rpm?
thanks for your help
On Aug 12, 10:10=A0pm, "Leon" <lcb11...@swbell.dotnet> wrote:
> "LesT" <l-th...@onu.edu> wrote in message
>
> news:173ea94d-4f4a-497d-ba49-eef07915578e@r38g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
>
> > I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
> > I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
> > it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
> > other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
> > a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
> > with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
> > without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
> > drill - am I just up the creek?
>
> > Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
>
> > Les
>
> Time for an upgrade. =A0I had the same problem with large Forstner bits.
> Have you checked with a hardware store for replacement pulleys to
> substitute.
I've looked at the pulley sets, and the one over the motor looks like
it
can be removed and another pulley put in it's place, but it's the
smallest
and it doesn't look like a much smaller one could be found. The other
pulley set (above the chuck) looks like it is fixed.
Concerning the depth of hole, I'll be drilling hard maple or baltic
birch ply
1/2" thick. I'm working on making a wine cabinet and using maple or
ply
slats with half moons removed to cradle the wine bottles. I had
planned to
make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2" holes in the 1/2" pieces and
then
cutting them down the center.
On Aug 14, 12:16=A0am, Morris Dovey <mrdo...@iedu.com> wrote:
> David Nebenzahl wrote:
> > On 8/13/2009 8:55 PM Morris Dovey spake thus:
>
> >> Robatoy wrote:
>
> >>> A router, properly used with proper bit, does leave a very nice
> >>> hole...if it isn't too small.
>
> >> I don't understand "if it isn't too small" - what's "it"?
>
> >> I routinely cut large holes with small bits. For fun, I uploaded a
> >> drawing showing the toolpath for a (large) blind hole "drilled" with a
> >> "small" bit to
>
> >> =A0 =A0http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/spiral.gif
>
> > Yeah, yeah, you've got yourself a CNC machine. We get it.
>
> And so does the guy I was responding to. If /you/ understood what he was
> saying, I'd be just as happy to hear the explanation from you.
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
"if it isn't too small" was a line I tossed in to point out that the
capabilities aren't infinite. It related more to the bit size than
anything.
In fact, I use a .125 to make a .5 hole, in the matter you describe,
rather than plunging a full .5 straight in.
On 8/13/2009 8:55 PM Morris Dovey spake thus:
> Robatoy wrote:
>
>> A router, properly used with proper bit, does leave a very nice
>> hole...if it isn't too small.
>
> I don't understand "if it isn't too small" - what's "it"?
>
> I routinely cut large holes with small bits. For fun, I uploaded a
> drawing showing the toolpath for a (large) blind hole "drilled" with a
> "small" bit to
>
> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/spiral.gif
Yeah, yeah, you've got yourself a CNC machine. We get it.
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
On Aug 13, 11:43=A0am, Morris Dovey <mrdo...@iedu.com> wrote:
> Lee Michaels wrote:
> > Yep, I had to drill lots of holes in metal with a hole saw. =A0The job =
needed
> > to be done within a day or two and I was on a very short timeline. And =
the
> > drill was too fast too. =A0My solution was to just squirt lots of lube =
on the
> > thing and wear a mask with a fan going over the work. It smoked like a
> > chimney. =A0It got the job done. =A0I went out and bought a proper dril=
l press
> > after that job.
>
> > We can all make do. But the proper tool can make pleasurable what was t=
otal
> > agony before. =A0BTDT
>
> Well, yes - but I just didn't have enough guts to point out just how
> quick and easy the hole job would be if LesT would apply the crowbar and
> bring home a CNC router...
>
> :)
>
> --
> Morris Dovey
> DeSoto Solar
> DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
I had the same thought...but suppressed it.. <G> (Hole saw? What hole
saw?? You mean the one that makes elliptical holes?)
On Aug 13, 9:43=A0am, LesT <l-th...@onu.edu> wrote:
> On Aug 13, 7:52=A0am, "d.williams" <wil...@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the good advice - I'm considering the best
> solutions given here and other forums and I'll let you know
> how things work out.
>
> Les
1/3 HP and a 3-1/2" hole saw in maple? The second that hole-saw hits
the wood, things will come to a dead stop. BTDT.
Even a proper 3/4 HP to 1 HP DP with reduction down to 200 RPM would
make that a tedious, smoky job.
Morris' suggestion is by far the better choice. (As per usual <G>)
"Lew Hodgett" <sails.man@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:MQLgm.1827$nh2.728@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
>
> "LesT" wrote:
>
>> I had planned to make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2"
>> holes in the 1/2" pieces and then cutting them down the center.
>
> You will never get it centered to get 2 equal pieces.
>
> One piece will always be a tad bigger than the other.
Sure you can, cut the piece in half on a TS then run the waste side through
again.
"LesT" wrote:
> I had planned to make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2"
> holes in the 1/2" pieces and then cutting them down the center.
You will never get it centered to get 2 equal pieces.
One piece will always be a tad bigger than the other.
My guess is that existing motor is a 4 pole or 1,800 RPM base speed.
You could replace with a 6 pole or 1,200 RPM motor but that still
leaves a 3-1/2" hole saw operating at 400 RPM which is just plain
scary.
You could engineer a belt drive reduction ratio and remove the motor
to drive it which in turn drives the D/P quill, but pillow blocks,
sheaves, belts and a suitable structure aren't free.
Morris has given you the fastest and lowest cost solution.
Make a template and cut ONLY half moon cuts.
1) Faster than any hole saw. BTDT.
2) Every piece will be identical.
3) Eliminates table saw operation.
4) Cost will be minimal compared to other methods.
Cutting lots of holes with a hole saw in a drill press is a TOTAL PITA
BTDT.
As Leon suggests, probably time for a drill press upgrade.
Have fun.
Lew
"LesT" <l-thede@onu.edu> wrote in message
news:173ea94d-4f4a-497d-ba49-eef07915578e@r38g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
> I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
> it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
> other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
> a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
> with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
> without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
> drill - am I just up the creek?
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
>
> Les
I have this on my whole house fan motor.
http://www.kb-controls.com/product.sc?productId=114&categoryId=25
> You probably won't ruin the bit running it too fast. Just pull out every
> second or so and let it cool off. You will probably make smoke and
> possibly burn marks on the wood... But you can hand sand them off.
Secondary thoughts... I didn't notice the fact that it was a 1/3 HP motor.
Ouch. Terribly underpowered. Might be able to do it, but it's gonna be
tough especially if the glue in the ply gummifies.
Now... The bit spinning that quick is scary enough, but a hand drill spins
it that quick anyhow so... You get my point I hope? Clamp everything down
well and wear safety gear.
Now.. If the budget allows, but a better DP:
Delta DP400 or 17-900 (3/4 HP $400)
Jet JDP-17MF (3/4 HP $550)
Grizzly #G7944 (3/4 HP $325)
Grainger #3Z917 (1/2 HP $650)
Jet JDP-20MF (1-1/2 HP $1100)
Grizzly #G7948 (1-1/2 HP, $625)
Grainger #3Z919 (1 HP, $1100)
Ellis #9400 (2 HP, $2000-3000 - Ask for dealer pricing)
Grizzly #G0521 [Drill/Tap Machine] (2 HP, 3 Phase, $1250)
Personally I love the G0521 option except for the fact that changing speeds
sucks. Their design makes it tedious at best.
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
V8013-R
Update: Some more thoughts.
--------------------------------------------------------
"Lew Hodgett" wrote:
> Morris has given you the fastest and lowest cost solution.
>
> Make a template and cut ONLY half moon cuts.
---------------------------------------------------------
If you have a saber saw along with that router, you could really
simplify things.
Make two (2) templates, one using posterboard that would allow you to
mark a saw cut line maybe 1/4" proud with a pencil for the saber saw
and another using 1/4" Plywood for the finish router cut.
Make a simple clamping fixture that will position the part and the
template(s) while being held place with a couple of toggle clamps.
Probably trace saw cut line on maybe 100 pieces in less than 30
minutes.
Have fun.
Lew
>Concerning the depth of hole, I'll be drilling hard maple or baltic
>birch ply
>1/2" thick. I'm working on making a wine cabinet and using maple or
>ply
>slats with half moons removed to cradle the wine bottles. I had
>planned to
>make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2" holes in the 1/2" pieces and
>then
>cutting them down the center.
You probably won't ruin the bit running it too fast. Just pull out every
second or so and let it cool off. You will probably make smoke and possibly
burn marks on the wood... But you can hand sand them off.
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
V8013-R
LesT wrote:
> On Aug 12, 10:53 pm, Morris Dovey <mrdo...@iedu.com> wrote:
>> LesT wrote:
>>> Concerning the depth of hole, I'll be drilling hard maple or baltic
>>> birch ply 1/2" thick. I'm working on making a wine cabinet and using
>>> maple or ply slats with half moons removed to cradle the wine
>>> bottles. I had planned to make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2"
>>> holes in the 1/2" pieces and then cutting them down the center.
>> Have you considered making a template and routing the holes?
>>
>> --
>> Morris Dovey
>> DeSoto Solar
>> DeSoto, Iowa USAhttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
>
> Yes, that has crossed my mind, but the hole saw would be
> so much quicker. What do think about really securing a setup
> to the table of the drill press into which I can fit the piece to
> be drilled - how dangerous is operating the hole saw at 620 rpm?
>
> thanks for your help
I generally run hole saws up to 6" at 480 rpm with no problem. I would
think that a 3.5 at 620 would be all right. Just take it easy and lift
the saw out of the piece now and then. Keep an eye out for burn marks
and ease up if they appear.
Assuming that you don't have a fence, bolt a piece of plywood to the
metal table and clamp a straight board to that at the appropriate
distance from the center of the chuck. You can also clamp a stop block
at the proper distance. That an some hand pressure should do the trick.
mahalo,
jo4hn
"LesT" <l-thede@onu.edu> wrote in message
news:173ea94d-4f4a-497d-ba49-eef07915578e@r38g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
> I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
> it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
> other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
> a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
> with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
> without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
> drill - am I just up the creek?
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
>
> Les
Time for an upgrade. I had the same problem with large Forstner bits.
Have you checked with a hardware store for replacement pulleys to
substitute.
On Aug 14, 12:07=A0am, David Nebenzahl <nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> On 8/13/2009 8:55 PM Morris Dovey spake thus:
>
> > Robatoy wrote:
>
> >> A router, properly used with proper bit, does leave a very nice
> >> hole...if it isn't too small.
>
> > I don't understand "if it isn't too small" - what's "it"?
>
> > I routinely cut large holes with small bits. For fun, I uploaded a
> > drawing showing the toolpath for a (large) blind hole "drilled" with a
> > "small" bit to
>
> > =A0 =A0http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/spiral.gif
>
> Yeah, yeah, you've got yourself a CNC machine. We get it.
>
What? YOU don't have a CNC? (Truth be told.. Morris has two...TWO, I
tell ya!)
Some of us in here actually make a living with woodworking and
woodworking related equipment.
The fact that some evolve towards more precision and repeatability in
output, in some cases require the procurement of more advanced
technologies in order to fill the orders. IOW, you don't haul cattle
feed in large quantities in a two-seater sports car.
The fact that CNC's are really shiny and make cool noises....well,
that's done deliberately by the designers to generate large quantities
of envy in others. That includes twirling chickens.
On Aug 13, 5:44=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <sails....@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> No matter how you cut it, a hole saw is not a finishing tool.
>
> Lew
Understatement Of The Week goes to...........
Those hole-saws are CRUDE! I have bought the best, cheapest, staggered
teeth, bi-metal, Swiss-made custom ground...... no matter. Drill-press
or not.. they do not leave a finished hole. A router, properly used
with proper bit, does leave a very nice hole...if it isn't too small.
"Lew Hodgett" <sails.man@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:QCYgm.1909$nh2.129@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
>
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Sure you can, cut the piece in half on a TS then run the waste side
>> through again.
>
> And neither one will be a full half circle.
Regardless of where you cut a circle you will not end up with a full circle.
A full half circle for a wine bottle is not necessary. 99.5% of a full half
circle will work equally as well.
The solution for a full half circle is going way way past wasting time for
an unnecessary step and will be unnoticeable.
LesT wrote:
> I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
> I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
> it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
> other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
> a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
> with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
> without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
> drill - am I just up the creek?
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
How deep is the hole? (I'm assuming it's a through-hole.)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
LesT wrote:
> Concerning the depth of hole, I'll be drilling hard maple or baltic
> birch ply 1/2" thick. I'm working on making a wine cabinet and using
> maple or ply slats with half moons removed to cradle the wine
> bottles. I had planned to make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2"
> holes in the 1/2" pieces and then cutting them down the center.
Have you considered making a template and routing the holes?
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Lee Michaels wrote:
> Yep, I had to drill lots of holes in metal with a hole saw. The job needed
> to be done within a day or two and I was on a very short timeline. And the
> drill was too fast too. My solution was to just squirt lots of lube on the
> thing and wear a mask with a fan going over the work. It smoked like a
> chimney. It got the job done. I went out and bought a proper drill press
> after that job.
>
> We can all make do. But the proper tool can make pleasurable what was total
> agony before. BTDT
Well, yes - but I just didn't have enough guts to point out just how
quick and easy the hole job would be if LesT would apply the crowbar and
bring home a CNC router...
:)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Joe AutoDrill" wrote
>
>> Now... The bit spinning that quick is scary enough, but a hand
>> drill spins it that quick anyhow so...
>
> The only hand drill you want to use for any hole saw above 2" diameter
> is a right angle one with a 200 RM setting.
>
> Unless of course, you don't give a hoot about your wrists and the hurt
> you inflict on them when that hole saw binds, which it will.
>
> Lew
>
Most of us have two hands.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mike@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Lew Hodgett wrote:
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Regardless of where you cut a circle you will not end up with a full
>> circle. A full half circle for a wine bottle is not necessary.
>> 99.5% of a full half circle will work equally as well.
>> The solution for a full half circle is going way way past wasting
>> time for an unnecessary step and will be unnoticeable.
>
> Not if you don't try to reinvent the wheel.
>
> As stated in a previous post, cut a half circle with a router and a
> template and the T/S goes away.
>
> You also eliminate the necesssity of cleaning up saw cut surfaces.
If your saw cut surfaces need more cleaning up than your routed ones your
saw has a serious problem.
Robatoy wrote:
> A router, properly used with proper bit, does leave a very nice
> hole...if it isn't too small.
I don't understand "if it isn't too small" - what's "it"?
I routinely cut large holes with small bits. For fun, I uploaded a
drawing showing the toolpath for a (large) blind hole "drilled" with a
"small" bit to
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/spiral.gif
You might find it interesting that the toolpath (red, starts at center
of hole) consists only of straight line moves, marked by a circle the
size of the bit at each end, and the finished hole (green) is good to
about +/- 0.001"
I'm not sure there is a "too small" :)
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
David Nebenzahl wrote:
> On 8/13/2009 8:55 PM Morris Dovey spake thus:
>
>> Robatoy wrote:
>>
>>> A router, properly used with proper bit, does leave a very nice
>>> hole...if it isn't too small.
>>
>> I don't understand "if it isn't too small" - what's "it"?
>>
>> I routinely cut large holes with small bits. For fun, I uploaded a
>> drawing showing the toolpath for a (large) blind hole "drilled" with a
>> "small" bit to
>>
>> http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Misc/spiral.gif
>
> Yeah, yeah, you've got yourself a CNC machine. We get it.
And so does the guy I was responding to. If /you/ understood what he was
saying, I'd be just as happy to hear the explanation from you.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/
Robatoy wrote:
> "if it isn't too small" was a line I tossed in to point out that the
> capabilities aren't infinite. It related more to the bit size than
> anything.
O ye of little faith! :)
I felt the same until the day I chucked up a 1/32" bit and let 'er rip
at the same feed rate I use for 1/4" bits (I did increase the spindle
speed a bit) and discovered that it's /all/ about cutting the wood out
of the way.
> In fact, I use a .125 to make a .5 hole, in the matter you describe,
> rather than plunging a full .5 straight in.
I'm not surprised. The implications for hand-held routers is clear: It's
possible to use a bushing and template to accurately "drill" about any
size hole the same size or larger than the bit being used. Deeper holes
just need more passes - true regardless of the type of router being used.
[ Note to Dave: There's nothing elitist about CNC - it's just another
tool technology, and can generally be DIY'd for less than the cost of
the conventional tooling it replaces. You're invited to follow the link
in my sig to see an example/proof. ]
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/JBot/
A project in itself, but some have modified a drill press (or band saw) for
low speed operation by adding a third speed reduction pulley via a jack
shaft, thus: http://home.comcast.net/~glyford/js/js.htm
or
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Account/3074/Equipment/DrillPressUpgrade/DrillPress.html
or
http://www.metalwebnews.com/manuals/large-hole-drilling.pdf
You might also find a couple of these clamps handy to keep the workpiece
under control on the drill press table:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36221
I just made a bunch of 4" diameter half-moon cut-outs in 2 x 4" material by
clamping two workpieces edge to edge, then centering the hole saw on the
joint, clamping the whole assembly to the drill press table (with a
sacrificial wood spacer underneath) and sawing thru.
Sometimes a ~1/4" hole drilled tangent and just inside the saw kerf to
provide a place for the sawdust to escape makes the operation easier.
David Merrill
"LesT" <l-thede@onu.edu> wrote in message
news:173ea94d-4f4a-497d-ba49-eef07915578e@r38g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
> I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
> it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
> other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
> a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
> with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
> without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
> drill - am I just up the creek?
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
>
> Les
"Morris Dovey" <mrdovey@iedu.com> wrote in message
news:h5vv7c$cpo$1@aioe.org...
> LesT wrote:
>
>> Concerning the depth of hole, I'll be drilling hard maple or baltic birch
>> ply 1/2" thick. I'm working on making a wine cabinet and using maple or
>> ply slats with half moons removed to cradle the wine bottles. I had
>> planned to make the half moons by drilling 3 1/2" holes in the 1/2"
>> pieces and then cutting them down the center.
>
> Have you considered making a template and routing the holes?
The template and router solution sounds good to me for another reason. With
a hole saw you might end up wasting a lot of time trying to dislodge the cut
out piece
from the hole saw. Those cut outs have a way of refusing to backout, you may
end up having to take the bit out of the chuck more than you'd care to so
that uyou can drill another hole.
"Leon" wrote:
> Regardless of where you cut a circle you will not end up with a full
> circle. A full half circle for a wine bottle is not necessary.
> 99.5% of a full half circle will work equally as well.
> The solution for a full half circle is going way way past wasting
> time for an unnecessary step and will be unnoticeable.
Not if you don't try to reinvent the wheel.
As stated in a previous post, cut a half circle with a router and a
template and the T/S goes away.
You also eliminate the necesssity of cleaning up saw cut surfaces.
Whether a full half circle is necessary is academic.
Trying to do this job with a hole saw is another kettle of fish IMHO.
Lew
On Wed, 12 Aug 2009 19:04:53 -0700 (PDT), LesT <l-thede@onu.edu>
wrote:
>I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
>I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
>it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
>other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
>a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
>with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
>without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
>drill - am I just up the creek?
>
>Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
>
>Les
I hate to say this, but I'd replace the drill press with one that has
more speeds. You need slower speeds for cutting metals and other hard
materials. I recommend a floor model for maximum flexibility. I use
two cone pulleys under the hood to change speeds when I need it. I
typically use 1000 rpm (for wood and large-radius tools) and 300 rpm
for metals and stone.
In article
<173ea94d-4f4a-497d-ba49-eef07915578e@r38g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>,
LesT <l-thede@onu.edu> wrote:
> I've got a Delta 12" drill press (11-990) with a min speed of 620 rpm.
> I've got a 3 1/2" hole saw that I want to use in the drill press, but
> it's max speed is 140 rpm. I've called Delta and they don't have any
> other pulley arrangements that would reduce the speed. I've looked at
> a router electronic speed control but the info says they work only
> with motors with brushes - my drill press is a 1/3 hp induction motor
> without brushes. I don't want to do this job (many holes) using a hand
> drill - am I just up the creek?
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated - thanks in advance.
>
> Les
This is quite possibly an insane idea. As in dangerous, and won't work
either. But, I'll suggest it anyway and you can decide if it's as insane
as I think it is.
Get a Lazy Susan bearing:
http://tinyurl.com/ogo9b9
Screw a piece of plywood on either side. Clamp the bottom piece to your
drill press table, with the center of the bearing lined up with the center
of your chuck (a little tricky, but not impossible). Clamp your workpiece
to the top piece of plywood.
Carefully lower the quill until it just makes contact with the workpiece.
Apply just enough friction to the workpiece to let it spin at 400 RPM. The
holesaw is spinning at 620, the work is spinning at 400, the difference is
120 RPM!
Probably not something you really want to try, but fun to think about, in a
sick sort of way.
Personally, I'd go with the idea already suggested elsewhere -- rough-cut
with a bandsaw, then clean up with a router and template bit. Or maybe
just a sanding drum?
"Joe AutoDrill" wrote
> Now... The bit spinning that quick is scary enough, but a hand
> drill spins it that quick anyhow so...
The only hand drill you want to use for any hole saw above 2" diameter
is a right angle one with a 200 RM setting.
Unless of course, you don't give a hoot about your wrists and the hurt
you inflict on them when that hole saw binds, which it will.
Lew