PP

Perry

19/03/2018 7:06 PM

Advice on drum sander usage.

I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......


I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
inch tall.

It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.

The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
milling machine.


I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
might work?



<https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>

<https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>



If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?


It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.


>
/ \
/ \
| | << sanding drum
\ /
\ < /
----------------------------------------------
| |
| |
| Direction of feed ==> | 1" tall
| |
| |
----------------------------------------------

6" long



Thanks guys.


This topic has 40 replies

Dt

DerbyDad03

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 4:16 AM

On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 7:06:49 AM UTC-4, Perry wrote:
> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>
>
> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
> inch tall.
>
> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>
> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
> milling machine.
>
>
> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
> might work?
>
>
>
> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>
> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>
>
>
> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>
>
> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>
>
> >
> / \
> / \
> | | << sanding drum
> \ /
> \ < /
> ----------------------------------------------
> | |
> | |
> | Direction of feed ==> | 1" tall
> | |
> | |
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> 6" long
>
>
>
> Thanks guys.

Can you make a jig with slope sides to match so that you *can* hold it a vice?

Dt

DerbyDad03

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

02/04/2018 7:36 PM

On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 6:13:22 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote:
> > On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
> >>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
> >>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
> >>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
> >>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
> >>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
> >>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wid=
e
> >>>>>>>>> x 1
> >>>>>>>>> inch tall.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from th=
e
> >>>>>>>>> casting
> >>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the to=
p.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
> >>>>>>>>> under a
> >>>>>>>>> milling machine.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one o=
f
> >>>>>>>>> these
> >>>>>>>>> might work?
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-mach=
ines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-w=
ds-4080p>=20
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be =
a
> >>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a=
=20
> >>>>>> heck
> >>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Something like this:
> >>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
> >>>>>
> >>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
> >>>>
> >>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
> >>>> anything thru the planer after sanding.=C2=A0 Either I have magic ha=
nds,
> >>>> or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surge=
ry.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will no=
t
> >>> be parallel.
> >>
> >> Give yourself a little more credit, man!=C2=A0 :-p
> >>
> >> When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had
> >> to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel.
> >> The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) =
on
> >> which the drums heads sit.=C2=A0 If they aren't parallel the drum can =
end up
> >> producing some pretty ugly overtones.=C2=A0 Add to that, the fact that=
the
> >> bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell.=C2=A0 W=
e call
> >> it having "square edges."=C2=A0 This must be achieved on repairs, newl=
y built
> >> shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work.
> >>
> >> Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will
> >> produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep.=C2=A0 I'=
m not
> >> sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it.=C2=A0 :-=
)
> >>
> >> After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing.=C2=A0 =
I
> >> adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large
> >> enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell.
> >> Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat
> >> against the sandpaper.=C2=A0 I would just rotate the shell in an arc, =
either
> >> spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to
> >> correct.
> >>
> >> I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration
> >> stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding
> >> piece on it to set as a height gauge.=C2=A0 With the shell set on the =
table,
> >> against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed
> >> square against the stick.=C2=A0 If there was light between them, at an=
y
> >> point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to
> >> correct it.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Same thing with the height marker.
> >>
> >> The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding
> >> table.=C2=A0 I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the a=
reas
> >> that needed sanded down.=C2=A0 I got very quick with this technique an=
d I
> >> produced dead-nuts-on results doing it.
> >>
> >> Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped =
up
> >> 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to
> >> it.=C2=A0 Better dust collection that way, too.
> >=20
> > +1
> > I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I=
=20
> > either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to=
=20
> > never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the=20
> > denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon.
> >=20
>=20
> LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple=
=20
> times in the past.
> So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion=20
> in which I curmudgeonize you! :-)
>=20
>=20
> > Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an=
=20
> > experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you=
=20
> > made.=C2=A0 Really nice work to be proud of.
> >=20
>=20
> Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that.
> We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst=
=20
> of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two.
>=20
> I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some=20
> video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in=
=20
> every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other.
>=20


They may have told *you* that they liked you, but that's not what they=20
are telling others.

How's that for giving some $h!t? ;-)

Dt

DerbyDad03

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 4:24 PM

On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 11:09:12 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
> >On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
> >> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
> >>
> >>
> >> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
> >> inch tall.
> >>
> >> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
> >> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
> >>
> >> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
> >> milling machine.
> >>
> >
> >Can you grip it securely with you hands?
> >If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it
> >over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper
> >or a long strip from a roll would be best.
>
> I'd be tempted to make a fitted Sabot to hold it in a vise.

Is a "fitted Sabot" a fancy way of saying "a jig with slope sides"? ;-)

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 3:49 PM

On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>
>
> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
> inch tall.
>
> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>
> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
> milling machine.
>
>
> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
> might work?
>
>
>
> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>
> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>
>
>
>
> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>
>
> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>
>
>                                                >
>                                             /     \
>                                           /         \
>                                          |           |   << sanding drum
>                                           \         /
>                                             \  <  /
> ----------------------------------------------
> |                                            |
> |                                            |
> |        Direction of feed ==>               |   1" tall
> |                                            |
> |                                            |
> ----------------------------------------------
>
>              6" long
>
>
>
> Thanks guys.
>


So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing.

How does this particular Epoxy sand normally?

It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try to
take off too much. There is no give under the paper like most sander
have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much.

When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per
pass. Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot.

AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper
can cool. You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the
last and very light pass or two.

As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper you
are using.

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 11:42 AM

On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>> casting
>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>> under a
>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>> these
>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>
>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>
>>> Something like this:
>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>
>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>
> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
> anything thru the planer after sanding.  Either I have magic hands, or
> you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>

In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
be parallel.

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 11:45 AM

On 4/1/2018 8:30 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 3/30/2018 12:14 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/30/2018 10:38 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
>>>>>>>> x 1
>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
>>>>> heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>
>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>
>>> If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good
>>> job eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers.
>>>
>>>
>> Absolutely, you could get close, maybe close enough that it would not
>> matter.  But if the OP will be investing to buy a planer or drum sander
>> he may intend to surface more pieces than you would ever want to
>> eyeball.  ;~)
>
> If he is in a production environment, he should call his tool provider
> and ask them what's the best tool for what he wants to accomplish, not
> asking a bunch of hobbyists and garage/basement dwellers that can spend
> weeks arguing over the best way to drill a hole in your bench top for a
> bench dog. They probably have a vacuum table for his milling machine, or
> perhaps a nice CNC machine that will turn 100's or 1000's out every day.
>

Probably but there is a lot of difference between one offs and
production. He may fall in between those amounts.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 9:19 AM

On 20-Mar-18 3:41 AM, woodchucker wrote:
> On 3/19/2018 8:20 AM, dadiOH wrote:
>> "Perry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>
>>>
>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>> inch
>>> tall.
>>>
>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>
>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>>> milling machine.
>>>
>>>
>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>>> might work?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>
>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>>> finish
>>> might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>
>> Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum
>> length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the
>> pressure
>> rollers properly in contact.  It won't get kicked around but don't try to
>> skinny it down in one pass.  The finish depends upon the grit of the
>> abrasive used.
>>
>> Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive
>> way to
>> accomplish your goal.  Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper
>> to the
>> bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it
>> with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the
>> paper and
>> carrier.
>>
>>
> Or build a vacum table and hold it in place while milling. With edge
> clamps, stops
>
>


Yeah, that was my first idea - machine down the top of a mold and use it
as a vacuum 'vise'.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 9:25 AM

On 20-Mar-18 7:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 11:09:12 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
>> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>>> On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>> inch tall.
>>>>
>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>
>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>>>> milling machine.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Can you grip it securely with you hands?
>>> If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it
>>> over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper
>>> or a long strip from a roll would be best.
>>
>> I'd be tempted to make a fitted Sabot to hold it in a vise.
>
> Is a "fitted Sabot" a fancy way of saying "a jig with slope sides"? ;-)
>


I could use one of the molds to fashion something like this. The sloped
sides complicate things. I'm thinking a vacuum pump and some slots in
the bottom of the mold might work.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 9:22 AM

On 19-Mar-18 8:36 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
> Perry <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>> inch tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>> casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the
>> top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under
>> a milling machine.
>>
>>
>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>> might work?
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>
>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and
>> -accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4
>> 080p>
>>
>>
>>
>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>
>>
>> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>>
>>
>> >
>> / \
>> / \
>> | | << sanding
>> drum \ /
>> \ < /
>> ----------------------------------------------
>> | |
>> | |
>> | Direction of feed ==> | 1" tall
>> | |
>> | |
>> ----------------------------------------------
>>
>> 6" long
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>
> A relatively inexpensive way to find out would be to buy a sanding drum
> kit for a drill press. For a test part or two, you can hold it carefully
> by hand or clamp the base to a piece of angle aluminum.
>
> I'm not sure how well the thickness sander will hold your part. If you
> had a sled of some sort, where the pieces are held in a slot on a board,
> you might be able to make it work.
>
> If you do need to find a better way to hold the work, let me toss out a
> couple ideas: Build a box around the part and cover the box and part with
> thin plastic like from a baggie. Fill the space with expanding foam.
> Now you've got custom vise jaws that'll probably hold good enough. (If
> you've got small parts that jut out, cover them before you put the
> plastic on.)
>
> Another option is to drill and tap for screws on the bottom or drop a
> couple screws in before pouring the epoxy. I don't have any experience
> with molding screws in place, I just know it's possible. Now you've got
> a way to mount the part to a solid base plate for machining.
>
> Puckdropper
>

Thanks some good ideas to mull over.

I will look at sanding drum kits for drill presses - I had not heard of
them before.

I had also thought of making a sled on a slide system up and using it to
pass the part by a bobbin sander.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 9:18 AM

On 19-Mar-18 8:20 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Perry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch
>> tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>> milling machine.
>>
>>
>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>> might work?
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>
>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>
>>
>>
>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish
>> might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>
> Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum
> length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure
> rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to
> skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the
> abrasive used.
>
> Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to
> accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the
> bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it
> with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and
> carrier.
>
>


I should have stated that this is an ongoing job rather than a one off,
otherwise your ideas sound like they'd work well.

I'll see if I can get the manual for the drum sander and see what its
specs are.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 9:16 AM

On 19-Mar-18 7:16 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, March 19, 2018 at 7:06:49 AM UTC-4, Perry wrote:
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>> inch tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>> milling machine.
>>
>>
>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>> might work?
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>
>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>
>>
>>
>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>
>>
>> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>>
>>
>> >
>> / \
>> / \
>> | | << sanding drum
>> \ /
>> \ < /
>> ----------------------------------------------
>> | |
>> | |
>> | Direction of feed ==> | 1" tall
>> | |
>> | |
>> ----------------------------------------------
>>
>> 6" long
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks guys.
>
> Can you make a jig with slope sides to match so that you *can* hold it a vice?
>
>


I had thought about modifying a mold by machining 5 or 10mm off the top
face. The sides are too sloped for clamping but just sitting in a mold
makes it quite a bit more stable. I'd thought of perhaps trying to make
a vacuum fixture out of the mold.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 9:29 AM

On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>> inch tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>> casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under
>> a milling machine.
>>
>>
>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>> might work?
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>
>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>
>>
>> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>>
>>
>>                                                 >
>>                                              /     \
>>                                            /         \
>>                                           |           |   << sanding drum
>>                                            \         /
>>                                              \  <  /
>> ----------------------------------------------
>> |                                            |
>> |                                            |
>> |        Direction of feed ==>               |   1" tall
>> |                                            |
>> |                                            |
>> ----------------------------------------------
>>
>>               6" long
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>
>
> So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing.
>
> How does this particular Epoxy sand normally?
>
> It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try to
> take off too much.  There is no give under the paper like most sander
> have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much.
>
> When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per
> pass.  Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot.
>
> AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper
> can cool.  You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the
> last and very light pass or two.
>
> As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper you
> are using.



The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up the
paper.

1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm.

Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your
machine?


thanks.

wn

woodchucker

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 3:41 PM

On 3/19/2018 8:20 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Perry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch
>> tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>> milling machine.
>>
>>
>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>> might work?
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>
>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>
>>
>>
>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish
>> might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>
> Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum
> length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure
> rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to
> skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the
> abrasive used.
>
> Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to
> accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the
> bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it
> with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and
> carrier.
>
>
Or build a vacum table and hold it in place while milling. With edge
clamps, stops


--
Jeff

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

21/03/2018 10:08 AM

On 20-Mar-18 9:00 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/19/2018 8:29 PM, Perry wrote:
>> On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>> inch tall.
>>>>
>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>> casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the
>>>> top.
>>>>
>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>> under a milling machine.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>> these might work?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>
>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>>>> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>                                                 >
>>>>                                              /     \
>>>>                                            /         \
>>>>                                           |           |   << sanding
>>>> drum
>>>>                                            \         /
>>>>                                              \  <  /
>>>> ----------------------------------------------
>>>> |                                            |
>>>> |                                            |
>>>> |        Direction of feed ==>               |   1" tall
>>>> |                                            |
>>>> |                                            |
>>>> ----------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>>               6" long
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks guys.
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing.
>>>
>>> How does this particular Epoxy sand normally?
>>>
>>> It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try
>>> to take off too much.  There is no give under the paper like most
>>> sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much.
>>>
>>> When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per
>>> pass.  Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot.
>>>
>>> AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper
>>> can cool.  You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on
>>> the last and very light pass or two.
>>>
>>> As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper
>>> you are using.
>>
>>
>>
>> The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up
>> the paper.
>>
>> 1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm.
>>
>> Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your
>> machine?
>
> IIRC 4~5".  Again IIRC the length should be long enough that it is under
> any of the 2 rollers or the sanding drum itself.  Keep in mind that when
> sending the work in at an angle that it effectively shortens the length
> of the work that you are sanding.
>
>
>
>
>>
>> thanks.
>


Thanks Leon.
As a new visitor to this NG I've found it very helpful!

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 3:13 PM

On 4/1/2018 1:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
>>>>>>>> x 1
>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>
>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>
>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>
>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>>> anything thru the planer after sanding.  Either I have magic hands,
>>> or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>>
>>
>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
>> be parallel.
>
> Give yourself a little more credit, man!  :-p

I know, I know... LOL. I was just indicating that years of doing
something does not mean you did it correctly.

If I was doing a few that would be OK. But doing it for 40 or 41 years,
you find a better way.

I mostly sand, on a disk sander, the curved fronts of my drawer pulls,
by eyeball.

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 3:07 PM

On 4/1/2018 1:22 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 4/1/2018 12:42 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
>>>>>>>> x 1
>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>
>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>
>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>
>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>>> anything thru the planer after sanding.  Either I have magic hands, or
>>> you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>>
>>
>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
>> be parallel.
>
> It's been oft said parallel lines meet at infinity as well...

By definition, NO. By humans using imperfect methods to maintain
parallel, YES.



>
> At any rate, for most all wood work, the opposite surfaces will be
> parallel _enough_,

Maybe for you.

JC

J. Clarke

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 2:23 PM

On Sun, 1 Apr 2018 09:09:50 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:

>On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>> casting
>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>> under a
>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>
>>>
>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>
>>> Something like this:
>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>
>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>
>In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or
>you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.

In junior high school wood shop we were required to square a block
with a hand plane before we could move on. No fancy machines needed,
they just make it quicker and easier. Doesn't really help with epoxy
though.

Regardless of any of this, for a 6x1x2 block, your typical benchtop
planer won't work--it won't feed something that small. Proxxon's
might if you can find one. However I'd want to see how it handled
epoxy and what the finish looked like before I spent for one--they
aren't cheap.

For a piece that small I think a drum sander of the kind shown is
overkill. If it's onesey-twosey then cleaning it up with a benchtop
belt sander should work fine. If it's mass production I'd look into
injection molding, where the shape of the piece is completely defined
by the mold and all that has to be cleaned up is a tiny bit of sprue
that if properly placed could be sheared.

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 8:00 AM

On 3/19/2018 8:29 PM, Perry wrote:
> On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>
>>>
>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>> inch tall.
>>>
>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>> casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the
>>> top.
>>>
>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under
>>> a milling machine.
>>>
>>>
>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>> these might work?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>
>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>>> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>>
>>>
>>> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>>>
>>>
>>>                                                 >
>>>                                              /     \
>>>                                            /         \
>>>                                           |           |   << sanding
>>> drum
>>>                                            \         /
>>>                                              \  <  /
>>> ----------------------------------------------
>>> |                                            |
>>> |                                            |
>>> |        Direction of feed ==>               |   1" tall
>>> |                                            |
>>> |                                            |
>>> ----------------------------------------------
>>>
>>>               6" long
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks guys.
>>>
>>
>>
>> So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing.
>>
>> How does this particular Epoxy sand normally?
>>
>> It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you try
>> to take off too much.  There is no give under the paper like most
>> sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too much.
>>
>> When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per
>> pass.  Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that spot.
>>
>> AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the sandpaper
>> can cool.  You can feed straight to control the scratch pattern on the
>> last and very light pass or two.
>>
>> As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper
>> you are using.
>
>
>
> The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up the
> paper.
>
> 1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm.
>
> Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your
> machine?

IIRC 4~5". Again IIRC the length should be long enough that it is under
any of the 2 rollers or the sanding drum itself. Keep in mind that when
sending the work in at an angle that it effectively shortens the length
of the work that you are sanding.




>
> thanks.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

25/03/2018 3:39 PM

On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>> inch tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>> milling machine.
>>
>>
>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>> might work?
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>
>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>
>>
>> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>>
>>
>>                                                >
>>                                             /     \
>>                                           /         \
>>                                          |           |   << sanding drum
>>                                           \         /
>>                                             \  <  /
>> ----------------------------------------------
>> |                                            |
>> |                                            |
>> |        Direction of feed ==>               |   1" tall
>> |                                            |
>> |                                            |
>> ----------------------------------------------
>>
>>              6" long
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks guys.
>>
>
> I've done 6" work pieces on my 16" drum sander free hand and 2" pieces
> with a sled no problem.
>
> If I was doing this for more than a few parts, I'd make a sled with a
> 3/4" plywood base and attach a raised frame from 3/4" x 1" wood in a "U"
> shape (10" long sides, 2-1/8" wide internally, 1" deep). The piece would
> sit in this sled and you would pass it under the drum with the open
> frame end first. The long sides of the frame make first contact with the
> pressure rollers and prevent snipe. The frame keeps the part from
> sliding backwards.
>
> Epoxy is generally like wood glue on drum belts, it has a tendency to
> gum them up. I typically maintain my belts with a belt cleaning stick
> and when they get fouled with glue or wood sap, I soak them in some
> ammonia or "Simple Green" cleaner for a few hours then rinse. Good as
> new! Epoxy "gumming" may/will be much more difficult to remove in
> attempts to extend belt life.
>
> For my sander, I like to use about 1/32" cut per pass with coarse belts
> ( less than 100 grit ) and then about 1/64 or slightly less for finer
> grits up to 220. Beyond that is just too much for clean, burn free
> passes. Of course epoxy will act differently and need some trial and
> error with grit selection.
>
> -BR
>


Thanks Brewster. Some good information.

PP

Perry

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

20/03/2018 9:40 AM

On 19-Mar-18 8:20 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "Perry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch
>> tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>> milling machine.
>>
>>
>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>> might work?
>>
>>
>>
>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>
>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>
>>
>>
>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish
>> might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>
> Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum
> length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure
> rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to
> skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the
> abrasive used.

Good point - I found the manual for one of the drum sanders and it gives
a minimum size of 3" long x 3/4" wide so it should be ok. Thanks.



>
> Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to
> accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the
> bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it
> with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and
> carrier.
>
>

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

30/03/2018 11:14 AM

On 3/30/2018 10:38 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>> casting
>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>> under a
>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>> these
>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>
>>>
>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
>>> heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>
>>> Something like this:
>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>
>>
>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>
> If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good job
> eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers.
>
>
Absolutely, you could get close, maybe close enough that it would not
matter. But if the OP will be investing to buy a planer or drum sander
he may intend to surface more pieces than you would ever want to
eyeball. ;~)

sS

[email protected] (Scott Lurndal)

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 3:09 PM

-MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>
>>
>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>> inch tall.
>>
>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>
>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>> milling machine.
>>
>
>Can you grip it securely with you hands?
>If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it
>over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper
>or a long strip from a roll would be best.

I'd be tempted to make a fitted Sabot to hold it in a vise.

dx

"dadiOH"

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 8:20 AM


"Perry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>
>
> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1 inch
> tall.
>
> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>
> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
> milling machine.
>
>
> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
> might work?
>
>
>
> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>
> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>
>
>
> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of finish
> might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?

Yes, a drum sander could do the job assuming your piece has the minimum
length necessary - as specified by the manufacturer - to keep the pressure
rollers properly in contact. It won't get kicked around but don't try to
skinny it down in one pass. The finish depends upon the grit of the
abrasive used.

Drum sanders are very handy and useful but it would be an expensive way to
accomplish your goal. Any reason you couldn't glue a piece of paper to the
bottom with water soulble glue, glue that to a piece of ply then mill it
with your milling machine. When done, soak the casting free of the paper and
carrier.

Mm

-MIKE-

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 9:12 AM

On 3/19/18 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>
>
> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
> inch tall.
>
> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>
> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
> milling machine.
>

Can you grip it securely with you hands?
If so you could stick sandpaper to a flat work surface, then flip it
over and run the top over the sandpaper. Two or three sheets of paper
or a long strip from a roll would be best.

Just keep even pressure on the piece to keep it flat against the
sandpaper.
Make some practice strokes against a smooth work top.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Bb

Brewster

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

24/03/2018 8:21 AM

On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>
>
> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
> inch tall.
>
> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>
> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
> milling machine.
>
>
> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
> might work?
>
>
>
> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>
> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>
>
>
>
> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>
>
> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>
>
> >
> / \
> / \
> | | << sanding drum
> \ /
> \ < /
> ----------------------------------------------
> | |
> | |
> | Direction of feed ==> | 1" tall
> | |
> | |
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> 6" long
>
>
>
> Thanks guys.
>

I've done 6" work pieces on my 16" drum sander free hand and 2" pieces
with a sled no problem.

If I was doing this for more than a few parts, I'd make a sled with a
3/4" plywood base and attach a raised frame from 3/4" x 1" wood in a "U"
shape (10" long sides, 2-1/8" wide internally, 1" deep). The piece would
sit in this sled and you would pass it under the drum with the open
frame end first. The long sides of the frame make first contact with the
pressure rollers and prevent snipe. The frame keeps the part from
sliding backwards.

Epoxy is generally like wood glue on drum belts, it has a tendency to
gum them up. I typically maintain my belts with a belt cleaning stick
and when they get fouled with glue or wood sap, I soak them in some
ammonia or "Simple Green" cleaner for a few hours then rinse. Good as
new! Epoxy "gumming" may/will be much more difficult to remove in
attempts to extend belt life.

For my sander, I like to use about 1/32" cut per pass with coarse belts
( less than 100 grit ) and then about 1/64 or slightly less for finer
grits up to 220. Beyond that is just too much for clean, burn free
passes. Of course epoxy will act differently and need some trial and
error with grit selection.

-BR

Pp

Puckdropper

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

19/03/2018 12:36 PM

Perry <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>
>
> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
> inch tall.
>
> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
> casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the
> top.
>
> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under
> a milling machine.
>
>
> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
> might work?
>
>
>
> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>
> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and
> -accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4
> 080p>
>
>
>
> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>
>
> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>
>
> >
> / \
> / \
> | | << sanding
> drum \ /
> \ < /
> ----------------------------------------------
>| |
>| |
>| Direction of feed ==> | 1" tall
>| |
>| |
> ----------------------------------------------
>
> 6" long
>
>
>
> Thanks guys.
>

A relatively inexpensive way to find out would be to buy a sanding drum
kit for a drill press. For a test part or two, you can hold it carefully
by hand or clamp the base to a piece of angle aluminum.

I'm not sure how well the thickness sander will hold your part. If you
had a sled of some sort, where the pieces are held in a slot on a board,
you might be able to make it work.

If you do need to find a better way to hold the work, let me toss out a
couple ideas: Build a box around the part and cover the box and part with
thin plastic like from a baggie. Fill the space with expanding foam.
Now you've got custom vise jaws that'll probably hold good enough. (If
you've got small parts that jut out, cover them before you put the
plastic on.)

Another option is to drill and tap for screws on the bottom or drop a
couple screws in before pouring the epoxy. I don't have any experience
with molding screws in place, I just know it's possible. Now you've got
a way to mount the part to a solid base plate for machining.

Puckdropper
--
http://www.puckdroppersplace.us/rec.woodworking
A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

30/03/2018 9:41 AM

On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>
>>>
>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>> inch tall.
>>>
>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the casting
>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>
>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>>> milling machine.
>>>
>>>
>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>>> might work?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>
>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>

Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt
sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a
lot cheaper than a drum sander.

Something like this:
https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Mm

-MIKE-

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

30/03/2018 10:38 AM

On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>
>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>> casting
>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>
>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>> under a
>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>>>>> might work?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>
>>
>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>
>> Something like this:
>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>
>
> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.

If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good job
eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 9:09 AM

On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>
>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>> casting
>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>
>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>> under a
>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>>>>> might work?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>
>>
>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>
>> Something like this:
>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>
> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.

In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or
you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 9:30 AM

On 3/30/2018 12:14 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/30/2018 10:38 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/30/18 10:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
>>>> heck of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>
>>>> Something like this:
>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>
>>>
>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>
>> If you're not measuring with a micrometer, you can do a pretty good
>> job eyeballing it on the sander then checking with calipers.
>>
>>
> Absolutely, you could get close, maybe close enough that it would not
> matter. But if the OP will be investing to buy a planer or drum sander
> he may intend to surface more pieces than you would ever want to
> eyeball. ;~)

If he is in a production environment, he should call his tool provider
and ask them what's the best tool for what he wants to accomplish, not
asking a bunch of hobbyists and garage/basement dwellers that can spend
weeks arguing over the best way to drill a hole in your bench top for a
bench dog. They probably have a vacuum table for his milling machine, or
perhaps a nice CNC machine that will turn 100's or 1000's out every day.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 2:22 PM

On 4/1/2018 12:42 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>
>>>> Something like this:
>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>
>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>
>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>> anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or
>> you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>
>
> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
> be parallel.

It's been oft said parallel lines meet at infinity as well...

At any rate, for most all wood work, the opposite surfaces will be
parallel _enough_, unless your hands are made of lead and out of
control, or your sanding something for use in brain surgery....

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Mm

-MIKE-

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

01/04/2018 1:48 PM

On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>
>>>> Something like this:
>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>
>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>
>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>> anything thru the planer after sanding.  Either I have magic hands, or
>> you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>
>
> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
> be parallel.

Give yourself a little more credit, man! :-p

When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had
to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel.
The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on
which the drums heads sit. If they aren't parallel the drum can end up
producing some pretty ugly overtones. Add to that, the fact that the
bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell. We call
it having "square edges." This must be achieved on repairs, newly built
shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work.

Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will
produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep. I'm not
sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it. :-)

After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing. I
adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large
enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell.
Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat
against the sandpaper. I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either
spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to
correct.

I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration
stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding
piece on it to set as a height gauge. With the shell set on the table,
against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed
square against the stick. If there was light between them, at any
point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to
correct it. Same thing with the height marker.

The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding
table. I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas
that needed sanded down. I got very quick with this technique and I
produced dead-nuts-on results doing it.

Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up
90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to
it. Better dust collection that way, too.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

02/04/2018 12:53 PM

On 4/1/2018 2:23 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
> On Sun, 1 Apr 2018 09:09:50 -0400, Jack <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>
>>>> Something like this:
>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>
>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>
>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>> anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or
>> you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>
> In junior high school wood shop we were required to square a block
> with a hand plane before we could move on. No fancy machines needed,
> they just make it quicker and easier. Doesn't really help with epoxy
> though.
>
> Regardless of any of this, for a 6x1x2 block, your typical benchtop
> planer won't work--it won't feed something that small. Proxxon's
> might if you can find one. However I'd want to see how it handled
> epoxy and what the finish looked like before I spent for one--they
> aren't cheap.
>
> For a piece that small I think a drum sander of the kind shown is
> overkill. If it's onesey-twosey then cleaning it up with a benchtop
> belt sander should work fine. If it's mass production I'd look into
> injection molding, where the shape of the piece is completely defined
> by the mold and all that has to be cleaned up is a tiny bit of sprue
> that if properly placed could be sheared.

I was thinking of that as well. Since it is a molding, I'd want the
molding to require minimal sanding, less than 1/16" I'd think, but I'm
more of a garage dwelling wood worker so I'd use a belt sander like I
referenced for small quantities. Large production I'd want closer
tolerances in manufacture.


--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

02/04/2018 1:16 PM

On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
>>>>>>>> x 1
>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck
>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>
>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>
>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>
>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>>> anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands,
>>> or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>>
>>
>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
>> be parallel.
>
> Give yourself a little more credit, man! :-p
>
> When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had
> to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel.
> The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on
> which the drums heads sit. If they aren't parallel the drum can end up
> producing some pretty ugly overtones. Add to that, the fact that the
> bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell. We call
> it having "square edges." This must be achieved on repairs, newly built
> shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work.
>
> Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will
> produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep. I'm not
> sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it. :-)
>
> After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing. I
> adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large
> enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell.
> Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat
> against the sandpaper. I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either
> spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to
> correct.
>
> I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration
> stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding
> piece on it to set as a height gauge. With the shell set on the table,
> against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed
> square against the stick. If there was light between them, at any
> point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to
> correct it. Same thing with the height marker.
>
> The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding
> table. I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas
> that needed sanded down. I got very quick with this technique and I
> produced dead-nuts-on results doing it.
>
> Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up
> 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to
> it. Better dust collection that way, too.

+1
I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I
either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to
never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the
denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon.

Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an
experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you
made. Really nice work to be proud of.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

02/04/2018 1:19 PM

On 4/1/2018 4:07 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 4/1/2018 1:22 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 4/1/2018 12:42 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches
>>>>>>>>> wide x 1
>>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
>>>>>> heck
>>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>>
>>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>>
>>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>>>> anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands, or
>>>> you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>>>
>>>
>>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
>>> be parallel.
>>
>> It's been oft said parallel lines meet at infinity as well...
>
> By definition, NO. By humans using imperfect methods to maintain
> parallel, YES.
>
>
>
>>
>> At any rate, for most all wood work, the opposite surfaces will be
>> parallel _enough_,
>
> Maybe for you.
>
Yes, for me, and probably most woodworkers on the planet, except maybe you.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Mm

-MIKE-

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

02/04/2018 5:13 PM

On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote:
> On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
>>>>>>>>> x 1
>>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
>>>>>> heck
>>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>>
>>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>>
>>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>>>> anything thru the planer after sanding.  Either I have magic hands,
>>>> or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>>>
>>>
>>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
>>> be parallel.
>>
>> Give yourself a little more credit, man!  :-p
>>
>> When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had
>> to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel.
>> The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on
>> which the drums heads sit.  If they aren't parallel the drum can end up
>> producing some pretty ugly overtones.  Add to that, the fact that the
>> bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell.  We call
>> it having "square edges."  This must be achieved on repairs, newly built
>> shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work.
>>
>> Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will
>> produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep.  I'm not
>> sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it.  :-)
>>
>> After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing.  I
>> adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large
>> enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell.
>> Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat
>> against the sandpaper.  I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either
>> spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to
>> correct.
>>
>> I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration
>> stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding
>> piece on it to set as a height gauge.  With the shell set on the table,
>> against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed
>> square against the stick.  If there was light between them, at any
>> point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to
>> correct it.   Same thing with the height marker.
>>
>> The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding
>> table.  I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas
>> that needed sanded down.  I got very quick with this technique and I
>> produced dead-nuts-on results doing it.
>>
>> Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up
>> 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to
>> it.  Better dust collection that way, too.
>
> +1
> I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I
> either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to
> never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the
> denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon.
>

LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple
times in the past.
So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion
in which I curmudgeonize you! :-)


> Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an
> experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you
> made.  Really nice work to be proud of.
>

Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that.
We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst
of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two.

I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some
video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in
every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other.

I have no doubt, you would yield the same results.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Mm

-MIKE-

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

02/04/2018 9:42 PM

On 4/2/18 9:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Monday, April 2, 2018 at 6:13:22 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote:
>>> On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
>>>>>>>>>>> x 1
>>>>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
>>>>>>>> heck
>>>>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>>>>>> anything thru the planer after sanding.  Either I have magic hands,
>>>>>> or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain surgery.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
>>>>> be parallel.
>>>>
>>>> Give yourself a little more credit, man!  :-p
>>>>
>>>> When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had
>>>> to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel.
>>>> The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on
>>>> which the drums heads sit.  If they aren't parallel the drum can end up
>>>> producing some pretty ugly overtones.  Add to that, the fact that the
>>>> bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell.  We call
>>>> it having "square edges."  This must be achieved on repairs, newly built
>>>> shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work.
>>>>
>>>> Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will
>>>> produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep.  I'm not
>>>> sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it.  :-)
>>>>
>>>> After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing.  I
>>>> adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large
>>>> enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell.
>>>> Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat
>>>> against the sandpaper.  I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either
>>>> spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to
>>>> correct.
>>>>
>>>> I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration
>>>> stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding
>>>> piece on it to set as a height gauge.  With the shell set on the table,
>>>> against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed
>>>> square against the stick.  If there was light between them, at any
>>>> point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to
>>>> correct it.   Same thing with the height marker.
>>>>
>>>> The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding
>>>> table.  I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas
>>>> that needed sanded down.  I got very quick with this technique and I
>>>> produced dead-nuts-on results doing it.
>>>>
>>>> Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up
>>>> 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to
>>>> it.  Better dust collection that way, too.
>>>
>>> +1
>>> I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said I
>>> either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom to
>>> never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the
>>> denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon.
>>>
>>
>> LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple
>> times in the past.
>> So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion
>> in which I curmudgeonize you! :-)
>>
>>
>>> Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an
>>> experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you
>>> made.  Really nice work to be proud of.
>>>
>>
>> Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that.
>> We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst
>> of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two.
>>
>> I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some
>> video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in
>> every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other.
>>
>
>
> They may have told *you* that they liked you, but that's not what they
> are telling others.
>
> How's that for giving some $h!t? ;-)
>

LOL! I was talking about me liking those sumbenches!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
www.mikedrums.com

Jj

Jack

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

03/04/2018 8:52 AM

On 4/2/2018 6:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 4/2/18 12:16 PM, Jack wrote:
>> On 4/1/2018 2:48 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 4/1/18 11:42 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 4/1/2018 8:09 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>> On 3/30/2018 11:06 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>>>> On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
>>>>>>> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide
>>>>>>>>>> x 1
>>>>>>>>>> inch tall.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>>>>>>> casting
>>>>>>>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>>>>>>> under a
>>>>>>>>>> milling machine.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>>>>>>> these
>>>>>>>>>> might work?
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a
>>>>>>> belt sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a
>>>>>>> heck
>>>>>>> of a lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Something like this:
>>>>>>> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm
>>>>>>
>>>>>> And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.
>>>>>
>>>>> In 40+ years of using a sander like this I never once had to run
>>>>> anything thru the planer after sanding. Either I have magic hands,
>>>>> or you have lead hands, or you are sanding something for brain
>>>>> surgery.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> In 41 years of using a sander like this the opposite surfaces will not
>>>> be parallel.
>>>
>>> Give yourself a little more credit, man! :-p
>>>
>>> When I was doing a lot of drum building and shell repairs, I often had
>>> to correct shells on which the two bearing edges weren't parallel.
>>> The bearing edges are the open ends of the drum shell (wood cylinder) on
>>> which the drums heads sit. If they aren't parallel the drum can end up
>>> producing some pretty ugly overtones. Add to that, the fact that the
>>> bearing edges must be perpendicular to the sides of the shell. We call
>>> it having "square edges." This must be achieved on repairs, newly built
>>> shells, or shells that are being cut down for custom work.
>>>
>>> Imagine trying to figure out a tool, jig, any kind of setup that will
>>> produce that on a cylinder 10" to 24" wide by 5" to 20" deep. I'm not
>>> sure there's a planer or surface sander that would handle it. :-)
>>>
>>> After many experiments, I ended up doing the most simple thing. I
>>> adhered sandpaper to my flat table, which was a piece of granite large
>>> enough to hold a 22" bass drum shell.
>>> Then I would set the shell down with the bearing edge sitting flat
>>> against the sandpaper. I would just rotate the shell in an arc, either
>>> spinning in a circle or back and forth, depending on what I needed to
>>> correct.
>>>
>>> I would check for square using a set-up table that had a registration
>>> stick which was square to the table surface and had another sliding
>>> piece on it to set as a height gauge. With the shell set on the table,
>>> against the square, I could rotate the drum to see if the shell stayed
>>> square against the stick. If there was light between them, at any
>>> point, that told be where I needed to sand the bearing edge down to
>>> correct it. Same thing with the height marker.
>>>
>>> The most efficient way I found to do this was by hand on the sanding
>>> table. I would just put a bit more pressure on my hands on the areas
>>> that needed sanded down. I got very quick with this technique and I
>>> produced dead-nuts-on results doing it.
>>>
>>> Bigger drums shops use motorized sanding tables, but they are flipped up
>>> 90degrees, so you can hold the shell against it while standing next to
>>> it. Better dust collection that way, too.
>>
>> +1
>> I normally don't give "+1"s because if I disagree with something said
>> I either say something or ignore it if I don't care, so +1 is seldom
>> to never necessary, but today, I gave you a +1 because I'd hate the
>> denizens of this rec to accuse me of being a disagreeable curmudgeon.
>>
>
> LOL! Well, I'm pretty sure I've accused you of that at least a couple
> times in the past.
> So feel free to tuck this away and pull it out for any future occasion
> in which I curmudgeonize you! :-)
>
>
>> Also, and more important is I recall being adequately impressed (as an
>> experienced woodworker and ex professional drummer) with the drums you
>> made. Really nice work to be proud of.
>>
>
> Thanks, Jack. I appreciate that.
> We all give each other plenty of $h!t in here, but I know even the worst
> of offenders would likely get along great in person, over a beer or two.

Giving each other a hard time is what it's all about. I mentioned before
everyone, with the possible exception of the Comet, disagrees and argues
with each other. I've been doing this stuff (echo's before newsgroups)
long before Algore invented the internet, and it has always been this
way. If you agree too much with anyone you used to be accused of
"pissing in their pocket" Always knew what that meant but never quite
knew how it got to mean that:-) At any rate, if I take time to disagree
with someone, it _generally_ means I respect them enough to waste time
talking to them. You need thick skin, and can't be too stupid. No one,
including myself, meets that criteria all the time...

> I've personally met at least a few guys in here, as well as had some
> video chats with some, including the late, great Robotoy (RIP). And in
> every case, we all went away enjoying the company and liking each other.
>
> I have no doubt, you would yield the same results.

Most of us are woodworkers of some degree or another, so we all have
something in common we can discuss to the nth degree. Lots to learn,
lots to teach. It's all good...

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.
http://jbstein.com

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

21/03/2018 8:15 AM

On 3/20/2018 9:08 PM, Perry wrote:
> On 20-Mar-18 9:00 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/19/2018 8:29 PM, Perry wrote:
>>> On 20-Mar-18 4:49 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 3/19/2018 6:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x
>>>>> 1 inch tall.
>>>>>
>>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>>> casting process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off
>>>>> the top.
>>>>>
>>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it
>>>>> under a milling machine.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of
>>>>> these might work?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> If I was to feed the 6" x 2" x 1" epoxy piece through what sort of
>>>>> finish might I expect and would it be likely to kick the piece around?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> It would be fed in with the shortest dimension (1") vertical.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>                                                 >
>>>>>                                              /     \
>>>>>                                            /         \
>>>>>                                           |           |   <<
>>>>> sanding drum
>>>>>                                            \         /
>>>>>                                              \  <  /
>>>>> ----------------------------------------------
>>>>> |                                            |
>>>>> |                                            |
>>>>> |        Direction of feed ==>               |   1" tall
>>>>> |                                            |
>>>>> |                                            |
>>>>> ----------------------------------------------
>>>>>
>>>>>               6" long
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks guys.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> So I actually have a drum sander similar to what you are referencing.
>>>>
>>>> How does this particular Epoxy sand normally?
>>>>
>>>> It is easy to heat the sand paper up on these type sanders if you
>>>> try to take off too much.  There is no give under the paper like
>>>> most sander have so it can be unforgiving if you try to take off too
>>>> much.
>>>>
>>>> When simply sanding hard woods I typically take off about 1/48" per
>>>> pass.  Once the paper is heated up and clogged it is toast in that
>>>> spot.
>>>>
>>>> AND it is best to feed the material at an angle so that the
>>>> sandpaper can cool.  You can feed straight to control the scratch
>>>> pattern on the last and very light pass or two.
>>>>
>>>> As far as smoothness of finish, that would depend on the grit paper
>>>> you are using.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The epoxy seems to sand well on a linishing belt. It doesn't clog up
>>> the paper.
>>>
>>> 1/48"..... 0.5mm - that sounds fine as may only need to remove 1 - 2mm.
>>>
>>> Do you know what the shortest piece is that you can feed through your
>>> machine?
>>
>> IIRC 4~5".  Again IIRC the length should be long enough that it is
>> under any of the 2 rollers or the sanding drum itself.  Keep in mind
>> that when sending the work in at an angle that it effectively shortens
>> the length of the work that you are sanding.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>> thanks.
>>
>
>
> Thanks Leon.
> As a new visitor to this NG I've found it very helpful!


Think about the answers you get. ;~) Many of the answers are opinions
vs. valid answers. Contrary to popular belief, I am not a French model.

Every machine will be different and have different specs. I would
highly recommend contacting the manufacturer to verify critical
measurements. Machines change.

Ll

Leon

in reply to Perry on 19/03/2018 7:06 PM

30/03/2018 10:06 AM

On 3/30/2018 8:41 AM, Jack wrote:
> On 3/25/2018 3:39 AM, Perry wrote:
>> On 24-Mar-18 10:21 PM, Brewster wrote:
>>> On 3/19/18 5:06 AM, Perry wrote:
>>>> I'm not a wood worker so bear with me......
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I've got a cast epoxy widget about 6 inches long x 2 inches wide x 1
>>>> inch tall.
>>>>
>>>> It's cast in a mold and has a sharp edge around the top from the
>>>> casting
>>>> process. I want to remove this and shave maybe 1/16" off the top.
>>>>
>>>> The sides are sloped so I cant grip it in a vice and machine it under a
>>>> milling machine.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I came across drum sanders and wondered if something like one of these
>>>> might work?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L110>
>>>>
>>>> <https://www.carbatec.com.au/sanding-and-finishing/sanding-machines-and-accessories/drum-sanders/sander-wide-drum-400mm-old-code-wds-400-wds-4080p>
>>>>
>
> Generally the best tool for sanding a 6" piece like this would be a belt
> sander. The fence holds the work piece from flying off and a heck of a
> lot cheaper than a drum sander.
>
> Something like this:
> https://tinyurl.com/y8od5rkm


And then you need a planer to make the surfaces parallel again.


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