My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that, solid.
That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter bench
dog holes that are actually vertical as they should be and not slightly
tilted? I've considered using my router except that it would create quite a
bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench is
located in my living room.
Thanks
On Nov 18, 2:44=A0am, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> Part of the problem is that I've had self feeding bits get away from me a=
nd
> unless they're rigidly controlled, they drive themselves into the wood li=
ke
> a screw, especially soft wood. I have to be pretty careful when drilling.
Drill a pilot hole first, 1/8" or whatever size works best with
your auger's lead screw. The auger will track dead on with the
pilot.
On Nov 13, 7:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that, solid.
> That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter be=
nch
> dog holes that are actually vertical as they should be and not slightly
> tilted? I've considered using my router except that it would create quite=
a
> bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench is
> located in my living room.
>
> Thanks
I had a similar size benchtop, same materials and thickness. I hiked
it up on my drill press using a roller ball support stand on either
side of the drill press. Then I used a 3/4" forstner bit to drill all
the holes. I used a couple of Bessey cabinet clamps to clamp it to the
drill press table before I drilled each hole. It sounds cumbersome but
it actually went pretty fast and smooth once I got the benchtop loaded
on the two stands.
Bob
"tiredofspam" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yikes, my slab is over 250 lbs. I could not imagine doing that.
> I had enough trouble getting it down the stairs.
With my itty bitty drill press it would be easier to clamp the drill press
onto the bench and drill the holes that way.
"Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Everyone to his own preferences, but why do you object to the slight
> tilt? My experience has been that a tilt of a few degrees (I believe
> mine is 4 or 5 degrees) towards the vise keeps the dogs from tilting
> backwards or riding up when pressure is applied.
I agree with those comments only that I maybe mistakenly assumed that the
slight downward tilt needed was already incorporated in the flat face of
most bench dogs. As demonstrated with these two bench dogs which have 2 and
3 degree downward faces built in.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31127&cat=1,41637,41645,31127
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31129&cat=1,41637,41645,31129
On Nov 13, 10:14=A0pm, [email protected] (Larry W) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
>
>
>
>
>
> Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >"Upscale" wrote:
>
> >> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple workbenchis exactly that,
> >> solid. That means nodogholes. Anyone have experiencedrilling3/4"
> >> diameterbenchdogholesthat are actually vertical as they should
> >> be and not slightly tilted? I've considered using my router except
> >> that it would create quite a bit of dust and that's not at all
> >> desirable considering that thebenchis located in my living room.
>
> >------------------------------
> >Dust is a problem you live with or equip your plunge router with D/C.
>
> >That given, I'd use a plunge router with at least a 2" stroke and a
> >spiral milling cutter, not a normal router bit.
>
> >Assuming your router base is 5-3/4" dia,, replace it with a piece of
> >1/2" MDF, 6" W x 60"-72" long with router centered.
>
> >Clamp a straight edge to thebench, offset 3" fromdogholes
> >centerline using another piece of 1/2" MDF.
>
> >Slide router into position and clamp extended base, butted against
> >straight edge, to table and drill/cut 3/4" dia.doghole.
>
> >When finished, index to next position and repeat.
>
> >Holesto be on 6" centers.
>
> >Have fun.
>
> >Lew
>
> One traditional method of doing this is to take a nice sized, square
> cornered block of wood and drill a 3/4" (or whatever dia. you desire)
> hole through it on a drillpress. Then use the block as a guide for a
> hand-held drill on the workbench. It's not perfect because repeated
> usei will enlarge the guide block hole and allow some play, potentially
> making the target hole somewhat off-plumb, but it work's pretty darn
> good if reasonable care is used.
>
> --
> =A0 =A0 =A0Often wrong, never in doubt.
>
> =A0 =A0 =A0Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonesta=
r. org- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
If he's got a set of Forstners then a variation on that is to drill
the hole the size of the shank of the Forstner and cut a relief in the
bottom of the block for the body of the Forstner. Same works with
spade bits. You get some wear but for making a dozen or so dog holes
it shouldn't be an issue. With Forstners make sure to clear the bit
regularly--down under a block of wood you can't tell what it's doing
and they're easy to wreck.
If you want to fancy it up, glue the block to a piece of Masonite or
thin MDF or plywood or whatever you've got an appropriately-sized
scrap of and put an edge guide and a reference hole in it.
On Nov 14, 8:11=A0am, RonB <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 13, 7:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> .... I've considered using my router except that it would create quite
> a
>
> > bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench =
is
> > located in my living room.
>
> This has turned into an interesting and informative string. But I have
> to ask the question:
>
> Why is it in you living room? =A0 =A0Just nosy. =A0 :^}
>
> RonB
If I had my way, mine would be there, too -- and I'm sure
I'm not the only one. Hand tools are quiet enough, and
the temperature and humidity are near perfect.
On Nov 17, 7:16=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> MIKE- wrote:
> > =A0What's wrong with
> > a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>
> ------------------------
> A brad point drill bit is easier to control in a hand held drill as
> well as providing better chip clearance.
>
> Lew
Make a guide block and clamp it to the workpiece.
On Nov 13, 10:43=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > hand-held drill on the workbench. It's not perfect because repeated
> > use will enlarge the guide block hole and allow some play, potentially
> > making the target hole somewhat off-plumb, but it works pretty darn
> > good if reasonable care is used.
>
> Thanks, I'll keep that idea in mind. I may even have a source for a metal
> guide block with 3/4" hole in it.
If it's already got the hole, go for it, but no real need for metal
unless you're making benches on a production line.
"Upscale" wrote:
> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that,
> solid. That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4"
> diameter bench dog holes that are actually vertical as they should
> be and not slightly tilted? I've considered using my router except
> that it would create quite a bit of dust and that's not at all
> desirable considering that the bench is located in my living room.
------------------------------
Dust is a problem you live with or equip your plunge router with D/C.
That given, I'd use a plunge router with at least a 2" stroke and a
spiral milling cutter, not a normal router bit.
Assuming your router base is 5-3/4" dia,, replace it with a piece of
1/2" MDF, 6" W x 60"-72" long with router centered.
Clamp a straight edge to the bench, offset 3" from dog holes
centerline using another piece of 1/2" MDF.
Slide router into position and clamp extended base, butted against
straight edge, to table and drill/cut 3/4" dia. dog hole.
When finished, index to next position and repeat.
Holes to be on 6" centers.
Have fun.
Lew
"Upscale" wrote:
> Not familar with spiral milling cutters. Are they some type of
> upcutting bit?
------------------------------
In the metal working trades would be known as an "End Mill", typically
4 flute.
Definitely NOT a wood working item.
Don't know who would have them in Canada.
Check a local machine shop for their source.
-----------------------------
> What advantage would one be over a standard 3/4" router bit?
-------------------------------
Chip clearance.
An end mill will have an up spiral, very useful for continuous chip
removaL with a D/C system.
Have fun.
Lew
"phorbin" wrote:
> Like these?
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=42891&cat=1,46168,46171
----------------------------------
That works, even though available only in HSS.
Mea Culpa RE: Carbide End Mill
Looks like a 3/4" end mill with a 1/2" shank selling for something
less than the national debt will be only slightly harder to find than
a set of hen's teeth.
Looks like a 3/4" x 2", 1/2" shank, dual flute, carbide router bit is
your choice.
Will just require some patience to keep chips cleared out.
BTW, install a backer board against bottom of top to prevent blow out
when bit pierces thru bottom of top.
Have fun.
Lew
Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:24:14 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>
>> What's wrong with
>>a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>
>
> Out of curiosity, why a Forstner bit? Don't dog holes go all the way
> through?
>
> I've never used a Forstner bit in other than a drill press. Seems I read
> somewhere they weren't safe otherwise.
>
By design using a Forstner bit will give you an indication that the hole
is started perpendicular to the table top. Once started the design of
the bit will aid in keeping it perpendicular.
I use Forstner bits in a hand held drill frequently. I've never had a
problem... although you have to keep a tight grip on the drill when
using the larger bits.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
"Upscale" wrote :
> Was is a carbide spiral cutter or a steel one? So far I've only been
> able to find steel ones (1/2"shank). Considering the number of holes
> I'd like to drill, I'm concerned that a steel one will wear out or
> at least lose it's edge before I'm finished.
-----------------------
Which is why I posted my previous mea culpa.
Given your bench is only 1-3/4" thick, a 3/4" x 2", 2 blade straight
cut router bit with 1/2" shank shouldn't have a problem clearing the
chips.
If it were 3"-4" thick, different story, but it's only 1-3/4",
different story.
Just make sure to use ac backer to eliminate tear out.
Lew
"Upscale" wrote:
> Since I'll be using a template guide for the router I'm considering
> hogging out most of each hole with a 1/2" or so spade bit and then
> come along with the router to more easily finish the holes. But,
> I'll try a few initial holes with the bit only and if the going is
> not too difficult, I won't bother using the spade bit.
--------------------------------
Spade bits are for electricians running romex thru floor joists, not
wood working, IMHO.
If you layout center lines on 6" centers on the fence, you will
simplify maintaining registration and speed up the process
significantly.
Lew
.
On Nov 13, 7:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
.... I've considered using my router except that it would create quite
a
> bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench is
> located in my living room.
This has turned into an interesting and informative string. But I have
to ask the question:
Why is it in you living room? Just nosy. :^}
RonB
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Dust is a problem you live with or equip your plunge router with D/C.
In the past, I did jury rig a total enclosure for a trim router when I was
trimming some acrylic, which can be quite messy. It wouldn't be too
difficult for me to do the same when cutting bench dog holes ~ just a bigger
enclosure needed and maybe a connection to my Festool CT22 dust collector .
And, I do own a Makita 3612BR plunge router which meets the requirements
you've laid out.
> That given, I'd use a plunge router with at least a 2" stroke and a spiral
> milling cutter, not a normal router bit.
Not familar with spiral milling cutters. Are they some type of upcutting
bit? What advantage would one be over a standard 3/4" router bit?
Upscale wrote:
> "Larry Blanchard" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Everyone to his own preferences, but why do you object to the slight
>> tilt? My experience has been that a tilt of a few degrees (I believe
>> mine is 4 or 5 degrees) towards the vise keeps the dogs from tilting
>> backwards or riding up when pressure is applied.
>
> I agree with those comments only that I maybe mistakenly assumed that
> the slight downward tilt needed was already incorporated in the flat
> face of most bench dogs. As demonstrated with these two bench dogs
> which have 2 and 3 degree downward faces built in.
>
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31127&cat=1,41637,41645,31127
> http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31129&cat=1,41637,41645,31129
If you want a hole that is perpendicular to the surface and don't want to
spring for new router bit(s) or make a jig, you can do it with it a drill
and router bits you most likely already have. As an example, lets say you
want to wind up with a 3/4" hole...
1. Drill a hole with a 1/2" drill bit. It doesn't matter if it isn't
completely vertical as long as you are close.
2. Use a 3/8" router bit with a 1/4" shank with the depth set to less than
the depth of the hole and run it around the hole using the shank as a
bearing. The part you cut is now 3/4" and vertical.
3. Turn the workpiece over. Use any router bit less than the diameter of the
hole with a shank the same size (eg, 1/2 & 1/2, 1/4 and 1/4) and run it
around the hole using the shank as a bearing on what you cut in #2.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
The only reply I can give to that is the dog holes have the potential to be
drilled on an angle, as slight as that may be. With a router, you're almost
guaranteed that the hole is going to be vertically cut.
They work great - drill on an angle or through odd stuff.
I like the aggressive ones - those with teeth edges and a hook
while the standard ones are knife edges with a hook that cuts.
I use a 3/8" electric hand drill and once a 1/2" hammer drill in drill only.
Martin
On 11/17/2010 5:44 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:24:14 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> What's wrong with
>> a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>
> Out of curiosity, why a Forstner bit? Don't dog holes go all the way
> through?
>
> I've never used a Forstner bit in other than a drill press. Seems I read
> somewhere they weren't safe otherwise.
>
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> If it were 3"-4" thick, different story, but it's only 1-3/4", different
> story.
Haven't seen too many plunge routers with a 4" depth cutting ability anyway.
> Just make sure to use ac backer to eliminate tear out.
Of course, that's just common sense. Since I'll be using a template guide
for the router I'm considering hogging out most of each hole with a 1/2" or
so spade bit and then come along with the router to more easily finish the
holes. But, I'll try a few initial holes with the bit only and if the going
is not too difficult, I won't bother using the spade bit.
On Nov 13, 5:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I've considered using my router except that it would create quite a
> bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench is
> located in my living room.
Time to splurge for a Festering router & shop vac. If you can't afford
it, I'm sure Rob will be glad to give you the toys^H^Hols as he now
has a surfeit of them. :-)
Luigi
"tiredofspam" <nospam.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Yikes, my slab is over 250 lbs. I could not imagine doing that.
> I had enough trouble getting it down the stairs.
>
> I used a router with a 3/4 ONSRUD spiral cutter. It too went fast.
Was is a carbide spiral cutter or a steel one? So far I've only been able to
find steel ones (1/2"shank). Considering the number of holes I'd like to
drill, I'm concerned that a steel one will wear out or at least lose it's
edge before I'm finished.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter bench dog holes that are
>> actually vertical as they should be.
>
> It also occurred to me. Is there a recommended spacing for these holes? My
> bench is 72" long x 30" deep.
>
The spacing should be equal to the stroke of your vice. I have mine at 12"
and I also have
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=62720&cat=1,41637,41645
"RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench
> > is
> > located in my living room.
> Why is it in you living room? Just nosy. :^}
Essentially, it's because I live in a one bedroom apartment and use a
wheelchair. In well over 10 years of looking, I haven't been able to find a
wheelchair accessible space to rent or perhaps share with someone that is
within the realm of affordable. I'd be willing to pay $300-$400 a month for
a space that's accessible and less than 30 minutes or so Toronto transit
travel time time. So far, I've not been able to find anything other than
commercial spaces that are $1000 a month and up. To compound the problem,
Toronto's subway system is slightly less than 50% wheelchair accessible
which cuts down greatly on my potential search area.
I think the root of poppycosh must be Poppy hyperbolic cosine.
:-)
Martin
On 11/18/2010 5:32 AM, nicknoxx wrote:
> On 18/11/2010 00:15, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>
>> Poppycosh. (I've never used that word, until now.)
>> I use them all the time in a hand held drill.
>>
>>
> Poppcosh is an exclamation of joy
> Poppycock means nonsense - which is what I think you meant
"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Upscale, considering your problem with exerting adequate down force when
> drilling, have you every tried any type of self-feeding drill bits? Most
> are more of a carpenter tool rather than a woodworking tool, the quality
> of
> the hole will be more like a spade bit than a forstner, but maybe they
> would be useful to you. Something like an Irwin Speedbore.
Part of the problem is that I've had self feeding bits get away from me and
unless they're rigidly controlled, they drive themselves into the wood like
a screw, especially soft wood. I have to be pretty careful when drilling.
Just another irritation to experience when you can't bring your full body
weight to bear controlling a tool. I do have a set of Irwin Speedbore spade
bits and when using them I drill a bit, retract and drill a bit more. Seems
to work and usually, they don't pull away from me.
I also have a very basic small benchtop drill press. If the plunge router
set up doesn't work as hoped, I'll use the drill press and spade bit to
drill the holes.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that, solid.
> That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter
> bench dog holes that are actually vertical as they should be and not
> slightly tilted? I've considered using my router except that it would
> create quite a bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering
> that the bench is located in my living room.
>
> Thanks
>
Plunge router? Tape it in place and put tape around any openings that duse
would escape with the exception of where you attach you Festool Vac. Use a
3/4" straight bit.
"Luigi Zanasi" <[email protected]> wrote in message news
> Time to splurge for a Festering router & shop vac. If you can't afford
> it, I'm sure Rob will be glad to give you the toys as he now
> has a surfeit of them. :-)
Already have the Festering shop vac. Considered the Festering router, but at
the current retail price of $910, it's going to have to wait.
As far as Rob goes, I've invited him several times to drop by for a beer. So
far, he's resisted. I think he knows I'm only interested in the machinery he
has. :)
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> "Upscale" wrote:
>
> > My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that,
> > solid. That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4"
> > diameter bench dog holes that are actually vertical as they should
> > be and not slightly tilted? I've considered using my router except
> > that it would create quite a bit of dust and that's not at all
> > desirable considering that the bench is located in my living room.
>
> ------------------------------
> Dust is a problem you live with or equip your plunge router with D/C.
>
> That given, I'd use a plunge router with at least a 2" stroke and a
> spiral milling cutter, not a normal router bit.
Like these?
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=42891&cat=1,46168,46171
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
>
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:24:14 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>
> > What's wrong with
> > a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>
> Out of curiosity, why a Forstner bit? Don't dog holes go all the way
> through?
>
> I've never used a Forstner bit in other than a drill press. Seems I read
> somewhere they weren't safe otherwise.
Lot of bullshit out there. They are hard to start cleanly if the drill
and the work are not held rigidly. A _big_ one in a Hole Hawg or the
like might get away from you, but a 3/4 in a typical cordless drill is
no more dangerous than a 3/4 brad point.
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Plunge router? Tape it in place and put tape around any openings that
> duse would escape with the exception of where you attach you Festool Vac.
> Use a 3/4" straight bit.
Yup, that's going to be my preferred method as suggested by Lew. It won't
be too difficult for me to make a simple enclosure with the CT22 attached
to house the router while I cut the holes. I already have a 3/4" carbide
router bit, but it's single flute and I've long intended to buy a double
flute bit, so this is my opportunity. A pieced of hardboard used as a
template guide will round off the process.
I briefly considered using a brad point drill or perhaps a spade drill, but
since I'm unable to lean over the drill to put weight on it as well as to
easily eyeball a decent vertical entry point, my plunge router seems like
the obvious choice.
Now, all I have to do is to convince my best friend to let me "borrow" my
plunge router back from him. :)
"Ed Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> The spacing should be equal to the stroke of your vice. I have mine at
> 12" and I also have
> http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=62720&cat=1,41637,41645
Yup, I've been eyeing those for awhile as well as the Veritas surface vise.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=63825&cat=1,41637
Assuming I ignore the stoke of the vise (it's well over 12"), and
considering the use of bench dogs and pups, I was wondering how far in from
the front edge I should place the first line of holes?
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter bench dog holes that are
> actually vertical as they should be.
It also occurred to me. Is there a recommended spacing for these holes? My
bench is 72" long x 30" deep.
"Larry W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> hand-held drill on the workbench. It's not perfect because repeated
> use will enlarge the guide block hole and allow some play, potentially
> making the target hole somewhat off-plumb, but it works pretty darn
> good if reasonable care is used.
Thanks, I'll keep that idea in mind. I may even have a source for a metal
guide block with 3/4" hole in it.
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote
> Not familar with spiral milling cutters. Are they some type of upcutting
> bit? What advantage would one be over a standard 3/4" router bit?
A router bit does not cut at the center of the bit, and as mentioned, they
do not lift the chips out of the hole.
I would use a forsner style drill bit, shortened, if need be, and turned
down by a machine shop to fit your _variable-speed_ router. It could be
a good idea (depending on the design of the bit) to modify the cutting angle
of the face to only be a few degrees so it will not try to feed too fast and
over-load your router.
I think this setup would make a more precisely dimensioned and smooth set
of holes than an end mill cutter, and be less likely to clog up with chips.
--
Jim in NC
"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "RonB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> > bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the
>> > bench is
>> > located in my living room.
>
>> Why is it in you living room? Just nosy. :^}
>
> Essentially, it's because I live in a one bedroom apartment and use a
> wheelchair. In well over 10 years of looking, I haven't been able to
> find a wheelchair accessible space to rent or perhaps share with
> someone that is within the realm of affordable. I'd be willing to pay
> $300-$400 a month for a space that's accessible and less than 30
> minutes or so Toronto transit travel time time. So far, I've not been
> able to find anything other than commercial spaces that are $1000 a
> month and up. To compound the problem, Toronto's subway system is
> slightly less than 50% wheelchair accessible which cuts down greatly
> on my potential search area.
>
>
>
Upscale,
Here is Southern California apartments known as live/work units are now
becoming popular in urban areas. I did some design work in one that had a
rollup door on the ground level with the living areas above. The building
has elevator service to get from one level to another. One such place I
worked on you can see at this website.
http://www.bluwatercrossingapts.com/Apartments/module/photos/property
[id]/22170/
Floor plan here:
http://www.bluwatercrossingapts.com/media_library/1106/4bd5bcb439d9d199.j
pg
Hope this helps.
Steve
Perhaps contacting a real estate agent and telling them you want a
live/work unit.
"FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you
>> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
>>
> Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to
> his angles of attack on a project.
It was just a joke, no offense taken. In reality, I've drilled a number of
holes in various projects in the past and almost without exception, they all
slant away from me. I just can't see it happening until I look at them from
the side.
I used a spade bit with drill guide called a Portalign. I don't think
it's in production any more, but there are similar devices around,
such this one from Sears:
http://www.mysears.com/Craftsman-Drill-Guide-reviews
For using the dogs in the table with dogs on a moveable vice jaw, the
table holes should be spaced no farther apart than the vice travel.
Mine were 7/8" diameter. Some pictures here:
http://bullfire.net/Bench/WP_Bench.html
I'm not sure I can help much with the mess the drilling will make.
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I got that and replied your other post. I *still* think you could do it
> with a right angle drill. Again, I'm pretty close enough is close enough
> for bench dogs. And weren't you worried about dust, anyway?
I do have a right angle drill, but it would still be problematic for me. And
you're right, dust is my foremost concern. Even so, I think I'll go with my
plunge router, sliding along inside a five sided simple plastic covered
enclosure and with my CT22 dust collector attached. I'll know right away on
the first dog hole if it's not going to be a workable solution. No harm at
that point, just a little bit of my time wasted ~ that's if it doesn't work.
On Nov 13, 8:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that, solid.
> That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter be=
nch
> dog holes that are actually vertical as they should be and not slightly
> tilted? I've considered using my router except that it would create quite=
a
> bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench is
> located in my living room.
>
> Thanks
I used Rockler's long shank 3/4" carbide forstner drill bit plus their
drill guide:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=3D2406&filter=3Ddrill%20guide
On Nov 17, 9:01=A0am, Bob <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Nov 13, 7:19=A0pm, "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that, solid=
.
> > That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter =
bench
> > dog holes that are actually vertical as they should be and not slightly
> > tilted? I've considered using my router except that it would create qui=
te a
> > bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench =
is
> > located in my living room.
>
> > Thanks
>
> I had a similar size benchtop, same materials and thickness. I hiked
> it up on my drill press using a roller ball support stand on either
> side of the drill press. =A0Then I used a 3/4" forstner bit to drill all
> the holes. I used a couple of Bessey cabinet clamps to clamp it to the
> drill press table before I drilled each hole. It sounds cumbersome but
> it actually went pretty fast and smooth once I got the benchtop loaded
> on the two stands.
>
> Bob
$30 drill guide and a sharp spade bit did a fine job on my table of 3-
inch white oak. Clamp a backup piece to the bottom to prevent exit
tearout.
They are perfectly safe in a hand held drill. You can even drill on an
angle because of the support around the outside. They are just not a
very fast cutting bit, and don't clear chips well. My maple slab is
2.75" thick. A forstener is slow.. Also with my router I made a base
plate to insert a dog and put a fence on it. So it registers the last
hole. The router bit cut clean and quick. My base plate was a zero
clearence plate too.
On 11/17/2010 6:44 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:24:14 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> What's wrong with
>> a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>
> Out of curiosity, why a Forstner bit? Don't dog holes go all the way
> through?
>
> I've never used a Forstner bit in other than a drill press. Seems I read
> somewhere they weren't safe otherwise.
>
In article <[email protected]>,
Lew Hodgett <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Upscale" wrote:
>
>> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that,
>> solid. That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4"
>> diameter bench dog holes that are actually vertical as they should
>> be and not slightly tilted? I've considered using my router except
>> that it would create quite a bit of dust and that's not at all
>> desirable considering that the bench is located in my living room.
>
>------------------------------
>Dust is a problem you live with or equip your plunge router with D/C.
>
>That given, I'd use a plunge router with at least a 2" stroke and a
>spiral milling cutter, not a normal router bit.
>
>Assuming your router base is 5-3/4" dia,, replace it with a piece of
>1/2" MDF, 6" W x 60"-72" long with router centered.
>
>Clamp a straight edge to the bench, offset 3" from dog holes
>centerline using another piece of 1/2" MDF.
>
>Slide router into position and clamp extended base, butted against
>straight edge, to table and drill/cut 3/4" dia. dog hole.
>
>When finished, index to next position and repeat.
>
>Holes to be on 6" centers.
>
>Have fun.
>
>Lew
>
>
One traditional method of doing this is to take a nice sized, square
cornered block of wood and drill a 3/4" (or whatever dia. you desire)
hole through it on a drillpress. Then use the block as a guide for a
hand-held drill on the workbench. It's not perfect because repeated
usei will enlarge the guide block hole and allow some play, potentially
making the target hole somewhat off-plumb, but it work's pretty darn
good if reasonable care is used.
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 20:19:19 -0500, Upscale wrote:
> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that, solid.
> That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter
> bench dog holes that are actually vertical as they should be and not
> slightly tilted?
Everyone to his own preferences, but why do you object to the slight
tilt? My experience has been that a tilt of a few degrees (I believe
mine is 4 or 5 degrees) towards the vise keeps the dogs from tilting
backwards or riding up when pressure is applied.
On your followup question about hole spacing, it should be at most a
little less than your vise stroke. I set mine about half that to ensure
most of a board is always flat on the table. I use a variation of a
French leg vise and have one at the front and back edges of the bench. I
put one row of holes in line with each of those vises and another right
down the middle.
A handy add on is a "double dog" that spans the bench (or the two vises)
and another that spans from either edge to the center row of holes.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On Sun, 14 Nov 2010 15:40:34 -0500, Upscale wrote:
> I agree with those comments only that I maybe mistakenly assumed that
> the slight downward tilt needed was already incorporated in the flat
> face of most bench dogs.
Oh. I made my own to save money and they're just plywood shapes
(various) attached to a dowel. So I tilted the holes in the bench.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
What am I missing here? Is this really rocket surgery?
What's wrong with a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
Don't bench dogs work with the friction of being pushed from the side?
To my knowledge, you shouldn't have to pound them in and out, so who
needs a perfect hole?
Or am I wrong? There's always a first. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:24:14 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
> What's wrong with
> a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
Out of curiosity, why a Forstner bit? Don't dog holes go all the way
through?
I've never used a Forstner bit in other than a drill press. Seems I read
somewhere they weren't safe otherwise.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
On 11/17/10 5:44 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:24:14 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> What's wrong with
>> a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>
> Out of curiosity, why a Forstner bit? Don't dog holes go all the way
> through?
>
Ok, a spade bit. I figured the entry hole would be cleaner.
> I've never used a Forstner bit in other than a drill press. Seems I read
> somewhere they weren't safe otherwise.
>
Poppycosh. (I've never used that word, until now.)
I use them all the time in a hand held drill.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 6:16 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
> MIKE- wrote:
>
>> What's wrong with
>> a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
> ------------------------
> A brad point drill bit is easier to control in a hand held drill as
> well as providing better chip clearance.
>
> Lew
>
You guys crack me up.
Please change original to,
"What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 6:44 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Nov 2010 14:24:14 -0600, -MIKE- wrote:
>
>> What's wrong with
>> a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>
> Out of curiosity, why a Forstner bit? Don't dog holes go all the way
> through?
>
> I've never used a Forstner bit in other than a drill press. Seems I read
> somewhere they weren't safe otherwise.
>
I've drilled the holes for Euro style hinges with my cordless Dewalt,
worked perfectly and I can still count to ten.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
-MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/17/10 6:16 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
>> MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>> What's wrong with
>>> a hand held drill and a Forstner bit?
>> ------------------------
>> A brad point drill bit is easier to control in a hand held drill as
>> well as providing better chip clearance.
>>
>> Lew
>>
>
> You guys crack me up.
> Please change original to,
> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
>
Nothing, if you don't mind a few imperfections. Since I have way less
experience than most around here, I think I would try a plunge router
and a fence. Not sure how deep one could drill that way, though. After
that, I'd clamp down a wooden "mouth" to hold down the wood, to prevent
tear-out. If thick enough, it might serve as a jig to guide the drill too.
Bill
On 11/17/10 6:44 PM, Bill wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> You guys crack me up.
>> Please change original to,
>> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
>>
>
> Nothing, if you don't mind a few imperfections.
> Bill
>
No, I don't... on a work bench. Especially if you're talking about the
minimal amount of tear-out you might get at the entry point, which could
easily be avoided with the same piece of scrap you use with the router,
or taken care of after the fact in 10 seconds with a piece of sandpaper.
But, as I mentioned before.. it's a WORK BENCH, not a dining room table.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 6:46 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
>
> The only reply I can give to that is the dog holes have the potential to be
> drilled on an angle, as slight as that may be. With a router, you're almost
> guaranteed that the hole is going to be vertically cut.
>
IMO...
if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you
shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 6:55 PM, Upscale wrote:
> I briefly considered using a brad point drill or perhaps a spade drill, but
> since I'm unable to lean over the drill to put weight on it as well as to
> easily eyeball a decent vertical entry point, my plunge router seems like
> the obvious choice.
>
I wasn't considering your circumstances when suggesting the drill.
However, any drill bit would produce far less dust, which was your main
concern, no?
Do you know anyone with a right angle drill?
I think you would be able to produce adequate down force with one of
those.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 8:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/17/10 6:46 PM, Upscale wrote:
>> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
>>
>> The only reply I can give to that is the dog holes have the potential
>> to be
>> drilled on an angle, as slight as that may be. With a router, you're
>> almost
>> guaranteed that the hole is going to be vertically cut.
>>
>
> IMO...
> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you
> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
>
Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to
his angles of attack on a project.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 11/17/10 7:14 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> But, as I mentioned before.. it's a WORK BENCH, not a dining room table.
>
> Boy, have you got a shock coming. I've met people who worship their work
> benches infinitely more than any dining room table.
It's no shock to me..... no, I take that back. I'm often shocked by how
anal people get with protecting stuff they build to use to make stuff
that matters. :-)
> You can get a dining
> room table anywhere, but a really good workbench?
See, that's the problem. We're supposed to build the dining room table.
> They're only found once or
> twice in a lifetime and for some, they never get to experience the joys of a
> truly beautiful work bench.
>
Found? I thought we were building it?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 7:17 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
> On 11/17/10 8:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 11/17/10 6:46 PM, Upscale wrote:
>>> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
>>>
>>> The only reply I can give to that is the dog holes have the potential
>>> to be
>>> drilled on an angle, as slight as that may be. With a router, you're
>>> almost
>>> guaranteed that the hole is going to be vertically cut.
>>>
>>
>> IMO...
>> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you
>> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
>>
> Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to
> his angles of attack on a project.
>
See my other post... I forgot who we were talking to. :-)
However, I suggested a right angle drill, which I think would work for
him.
I just think the router would make way too much dust... which he's
trying to avoid.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 7:20 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you
>> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
>
> Unavoidable circumstances. I use a wheelchair so I'd be drilling with my
> arms extended straight out in front of me. Without some type of guide or a
> vertically fixed router housing for example, many of my holes are not close
> to be considered reasonably vertical. I consider myself a decent woodworker,
> just that I have some different challenges to overcome than some.
>
I got that and replied your other post. I *still* think you could do it
with a right angle drill. Again, I'm pretty close enough is close enough
for bench dogs. And weren't you worried about dust, anyway?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 7:32 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I got that and replied your other post. I *still* think you could do it
>> with a right angle drill. Again, I'm pretty close enough is close enough
>> for bench dogs. And weren't you worried about dust, anyway?
>
> I do have a right angle drill, but it would still be problematic for me. And
> you're right, dust is my foremost concern. Even so, I think I'll go with my
> plunge router, sliding along inside a five sided simple plastic covered
> enclosure and with my CT22 dust collector attached. I'll know right away on
> the first dog hole if it's not going to be a workable solution. No harm at
> that point, just a little bit of my time wasted ~ that's if it doesn't work.
>
I think you need to switch to a vertical workbench so you don't have to
bend over.
That would solve everything. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 8:24 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "FrozenNorth"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you
>>> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
>>>
>> Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to
>> his angles of attack on a project.
>
> It was just a joke, no offense taken. In reality, I've drilled a number of
> holes in various projects in the past and almost without exception, they all
> slant away from me. I just can't see it happening until I look at them from
> the side.
>
OK, I retract my post and apologize.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 11/17/10 8:14 PM, Upscale wrote:
> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>> But, as I mentioned before.. it's a WORK BENCH, not a dining room table.
>
> Boy, have you got a shock coming. I've met people who worship their work
> benches infinitely more than any dining room table. You can get a dining
> room table anywhere, but a really good workbench? They're only found once or
> twice in a lifetime and for some, they never get to experience the joys of a
> truly beautiful work bench.
>
> It's called Nirvana my friend and is something that's experienced by too
> few.
>
Yours will have unique requirements, would like to see pics of the final
product with a bit of sawdust on it.
:-)
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 11/17/10 7:37 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
> On 11/17/10 8:24 PM, Upscale wrote:
>> "FrozenNorth"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then
>>>> you
>>>> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
>>>>
>>> Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to
>>> his angles of attack on a project.
>>
>> It was just a joke, no offense taken. In reality, I've drilled a
>> number of
>> holes in various projects in the past and almost without exception,
>> they all
>> slant away from me. I just can't see it happening until I look at them
>> from
>> the side.
>>
> OK, I retract my post and apologize.
>
No need to apologize.
I forgot about the OP and thought we were just talking about woodworkers
in general.
Taken out of context... or is it *in* context.... my statement certain
appears pretty insensitive.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 11/17/10 8:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/17/10 7:37 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
>> On 11/17/10 8:24 PM, Upscale wrote:
>>> "FrozenNorth"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then
>>>>> you
>>>>> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
>>>>>
>>>> Ummm, he is woodworking from a wheel chair, their are limitations as to
>>>> his angles of attack on a project.
>>>
>>> It was just a joke, no offense taken. In reality, I've drilled a
>>> number of
>>> holes in various projects in the past and almost without exception,
>>> they all
>>> slant away from me. I just can't see it happening until I look at them
>>> from
>>> the side.
>>>
>> OK, I retract my post and apologize.
>>
>
> No need to apologize.
I'm Canadian, we do that :-)
> I forgot about the OP and thought we were just talking about woodworkers
> in general.
> Taken out of context... or is it *in* context.... my statement certain
> appears pretty insensitive.
>
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
On 11/17/10 8:34 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 11/17/10 7:32 PM, Upscale wrote:
>> "-MIKE-"<[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> I got that and replied your other post. I *still* think you could do it
>>> with a right angle drill. Again, I'm pretty close enough is close enough
>>> for bench dogs. And weren't you worried about dust, anyway?
>>
>> I do have a right angle drill, but it would still be problematic for
>> me. And
>> you're right, dust is my foremost concern. Even so, I think I'll go
>> with my
>> plunge router, sliding along inside a five sided simple plastic covered
>> enclosure and with my CT22 dust collector attached. I'll know right
>> away on
>> the first dog hole if it's not going to be a workable solution. No
>> harm at
>> that point, just a little bit of my time wasted ~ that's if it doesn't
>> work.
>>
>
> I think you need to switch to a vertical workbench so you don't have to
> bend over.
>
> That would solve everything. :-)
>
It would keep clean, no nasty screwdrivers, pencils and chisels lying
around. :-)
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
Upscale, considering your problem with exerting adequate down force when
drilling, have you every tried any type of self-feeding drill bits? Most
are more of a carpenter tool rather than a woodworking tool, the quality of
the hole will be more like a spade bit than a forstner, but maybe they
would be useful to you. Something like an Irwin Speedbore. There are
several other variations. (Still won't help with keeping the hole plumb,
though)
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
On 11/18/10 5:32 AM, nicknoxx wrote:
> On 18/11/2010 00:15, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>>
>> Poppycosh. (I've never used that word, until now.)
>> I use them all the time in a hand held drill.
>>
>>
> Poppcosh is an exclamation of joy
> Poppycock means nonsense - which is what I think you meant
I'm full of poppycosh, now that I've been made aware the need to pay
more attention to my smell-chequer. Thank you. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
In article <[email protected]>
[email protected] writes:
>On 11/17/10 6:44 PM, Bill wrote:
>> -MIKE- wrote:
>>> You guys crack me up.
>>> Please change original to,
>>> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
>>>
>>
>> Nothing, if you don't mind a few imperfections.
>> Bill
>>
>
>No, I don't... on a work bench. Especially if you're talking about the
>minimal amount of tear-out you might get at the entry point, which could
>easily be avoided with the same piece of scrap you use with the router,
>or taken care of after the fact in 10 seconds with a piece of sandpaper.
I'm following this thread because I've had the same question in my
head, but I don't have the bench yet so I didn't ask.
IMO, you are assuming a degree of hand drill skill and/or consistency
that I am not certain is in my grasp. This will be my *first*
workbench, after all. The results might work fine, but how would
I know that at this point?
This question has bumped up suddenly, as I unexpectedly came into
a fair number of hand tools that I didn't expect to be in my budget
for several more years. Now I need a solid surface and a whole lot
of practice.
As for the exactness of the holes, I know how the demons in my head
work. The more precise the tool, the less likely I am to decide
it is to blame.
--
|Drew Lawson | Mrs. Tweedy! |
| | The chickens are revolting! |
Drew Lawson wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>
> [email protected] writes:
>> On 11/17/10 6:44 PM, Bill wrote:
>>> -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> You guys crack me up.
>>>> Please change original to,
>>>> "What's wrong with a hand held drill to drill bench dog holes."
>>>>
>>>
>>> Nothing, if you don't mind a few imperfections.
>>> Bill
>>>
>>
>> No, I don't... on a work bench. Especially if you're talking about the
>> minimal amount of tear-out you might get at the entry point, which could
>> easily be avoided with the same piece of scrap you use with the router,
>> or taken care of after the fact in 10 seconds with a piece of sandpaper.
>
> I'm following this thread because I've had the same question in my
> head, but I don't have the bench yet so I didn't ask.
>
> IMO, you are assuming a degree of hand drill skill and/or consistency
> that I am not certain is in my grasp. This will be my *first*
> workbench, after all. The results might work fine, but how would
> I know that at this point?
Lesson 1 (or 2): Drill a practice hole. Related suggestions include: do
a test cut, stain/finish a scrap piece, build a mock-up model.
Try to avoid surprises and have fun! :)
Bill
>
> This question has bumped up suddenly, as I unexpectedly came into
> a fair number of hand tools that I didn't expect to be in my budget
> for several more years. Now I need a solid surface and a whole lot
> of practice.
>
> As for the exactness of the holes, I know how the demons in my head
> work. The more precise the tool, the less likely I am to decide
> it is to blame.
>
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Upscale" wrote:
>
>> Already have the Festering shop vac. Considered the Festering router, but
>> at the current retail price of $910, it's going to have to wait.
> ---------------------
> Just curious, what does a Milwaukee 5625 set you back these days?
>
> Lew
>
>
$270
--
If your name is No, I voted for you - more than once ...
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> if you can't drill a hole straight enough for a bench dog hole, then you
> shouldn't be woodworking. :-)
Unavoidable circumstances. I use a wheelchair so I'd be drilling with my
arms extended straight out in front of me. Without some type of guide or a
vertically fixed router housing for example, many of my holes are not close
to be considered reasonably vertical. I consider myself a decent woodworker,
just that I have some different challenges to overcome than some.
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Leon" wrote:
>
>> Plunge router?
> ------------------
>
> Already covered.
>
> See my previous posts.
>
> Lew
>
>
Sorry, Like Minds..
On Sun, 14 Nov 2010 00:12:15 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Upscale" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter bench dog holes that are
>>> actually vertical as they should be.
>>
>> It also occurred to me. Is there a recommended spacing for these holes? My
>> bench is 72" long x 30" deep.
>>
>
>The spacing should be equal to the stroke of your vice.
Just _short_ of the working stroke.
>I have mine at 12" and I also have
>http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=62720&cat=1,41637,41645
Bench pups are nice, but DAMN, look what they're getting for them now!
I hate that the Canuckistani Ducat is so high now. I got them for a
whole lot cheaper last decade.
--
To the well-organized mind, death is but the next great adventure.
-- J. K. Rowling
"-MIKE-" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> But, as I mentioned before.. it's a WORK BENCH, not a dining room table.
Boy, have you got a shock coming. I've met people who worship their work
benches infinitely more than any dining room table. You can get a dining
room table anywhere, but a really good workbench? They're only found once or
twice in a lifetime and for some, they never get to experience the joys of a
truly beautiful work bench.
It's called Nirvana my friend and is something that's experienced by too
few.
Yikes, my slab is over 250 lbs. I could not imagine doing that.
I had enough trouble getting it down the stairs.
I used a router with a 3/4 ONSRUD spiral cutter. It too went fast.
On 11/17/2010 10:01 AM, Bob wrote:
> On Nov 13, 7:19 pm, "Upscale"<[email protected]> wrote:
>> My 1-3/4" thick solid laminated maple work bench is exactly that, solid.
>> That means no dog holes. Anyone have experience drilling 3/4" diameter bench
>> dog holes that are actually vertical as they should be and not slightly
>> tilted? I've considered using my router except that it would create quite a
>> bit of dust and that's not at all desirable considering that the bench is
>> located in my living room.
>>
>> Thanks
>
> I had a similar size benchtop, same materials and thickness. I hiked
> it up on my drill press using a roller ball support stand on either
> side of the drill press. Then I used a 3/4" forstner bit to drill all
> the holes. I used a couple of Bessey cabinet clamps to clamp it to the
> drill press table before I drilled each hole. It sounds cumbersome but
> it actually went pretty fast and smooth once I got the benchtop loaded
> on the two stands.
>
> Bob