HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
"unanticipated" tasks like that.
What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
Bill
Dave Balderstone wrote:
>
> Yeah. I bought a Rotozip a couple of years ago and after having to
> clean the dust from an entire room (instead of directly under the cut)
> after making a few cuts in drywall, I put it back on the shelf.
>
> Thanks for reminding me, I need to sell that POS.
>
> djb
When equipped with the trammel jig they do work nice for cutting round
holes for recessed light fixtures.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
[email protected]
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
>>>>> can go a
>>>>> whole year
>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
>>>> minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>
>>
>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>> drywall repair I am making,
>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
>> to make a nice clean cut!
>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
>> store!
>
>That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered
>for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got
>discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use
>a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.
...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
in seconds. ;0)
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:59:46 -0500, the infamous [email protected]
scrawled the following:
>On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
>><[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
>>>goes through the stuff like butter.
>>
>>As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
>>
>>Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
>>work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
>
>The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
>Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
>either.
I sent my Amazon Wish list to my sister. It has the $400 Fein
Multitaskwhatever tool listed, but I noted that I'd accept the HF
Multifunction tool at $40 on sale right now.
--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:59:46 -0500, [email protected] wrote:
>On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
><novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>>On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
>><[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>>The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
>>>goes through the stuff like butter.
>>
>>As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
>>
>>Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
>>work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
>
>The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
>Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
>either.
Yes, I'd think that would be the perfect tool for "old work". Hanging
drywall is where the RotoZip is supposed to shine. The idea is that
the bit follows the *outside* of the box. It takes some practice but
not hard.
In article <[email protected]>, Charlie Groh
<[email protected]> wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Bill wrote:
> >> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>> news:[email protected]...
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
> >>>>> can go a
> >>>>> whole year
> >>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
> >>>> minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
> >>
> >>
> >> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
> >> drywall repair I am making,
> >> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
> >> to make a nice clean cut!
> >> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
> >> store!
> >
> >That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered
> >for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got
> >discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use
> >a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.
>
> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
> in seconds. ;0)
Yeah. I bought a Rotozip a couple of years ago and after having to
clean the dust from an entire room (instead of directly under the cut)
after making a few cuts in drywall, I put it back on the shelf.
Thanks for reminding me, I need to sell that POS.
djb
In article <[email protected]>, J. Clarke
<[email protected]> wrote:
> If there's
> an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or Dremel
> is a much more satisfactory tool.
I find a knife is more satisfactory. YMMV.
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 06:12:26 -0500, the infamous "dadiOH"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>Bill wrote:
>> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
>> one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
>> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
>> in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
>> smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>>
>> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
>> file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>>
>> Bill
>
>I'd go for anything *but* Dremel.
I've only used it a few times, but the $5 (yes, five bucks on sale)
rotary tool kit from HF has worked fine for me...for tiny stuff. Those
and Dremels are gutless little things. http://fwd4.me/646
--
Q: How many climate scientists does it take to change a light bulb?
A: None. There's a consensus that it's going to change, so they've
decided to keep us in the dark.
It's only a value if you need it. But HFT does not sell the 1/8" router
type bits, that I was ever able to find. I had to order some from Ebay.
Else the cost was ridicules to get bits from Sears, HD, Anderson's or
Lowe's.
However, the cordless dremelesque rotary tool I bought at HFT and the
Shopsmith I bought at Anderson's (regional place?) both fit on the
Dremel attachments.
Mike in Ohio
Bill wrote:
> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
> Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
> would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
> moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
> "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
> good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
> Bill
>HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
>Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
>would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
>moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
>"unanticipated" tasks like that.
>What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
>good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>Bill
I've had my cordless Dremel 7 years and corded 20 years. Works just
fine for everything I've thrown at it so far. Used the cordless
earlier this year to wire up a friend's house for surround sound and
networking. I have the drill press stand that I use for my scroll saw
projects and find more uses for it all the time. The only thing I
haven't liked is the sharpening attachment. It works "ok" to sharpen
but takes longer due to it's smaller side. I've used it on the mower a
couple of times but find it faster to use a regular grinder.
I also have a Craftsman roto-tool with a box full of attachments. It's
been used a few times but none of the attachments and the diamond
cutting wheel was not cheap. It's considerably heavier and larger than
a Dremel making it awkward to use for some jobs. Compared to the
Dremel, it gets used maybe 1 in 20 times. Maybe someday I'll try it's
plunge router attachment.
`Casper
On Nov 27, 8:42=A0am, [email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:25:35 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>
>
>
>
>
> <[email protected]> wrote:
> >Bill wrote:
> >> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
> >> (half-price). =A0It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
> >> one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
> >> tool-bits would be available. =A0Although I do not have a specific use
> >> in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
> >> smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
> >> What's the verdict: =A0(1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
> >> file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
> >A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power carving or=
the
> >like you seldom use but when you do use it you're glad that you have it.
>
> >If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro die
> >grinder
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3D47869=
.
>
> >It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
> >accessories like the router base and whatnot. =A0Using it, =A0it works l=
ike a
> >Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.
>
> >Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you foreve=
r
> >unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.
>
> >With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield. =A0The=
y will
> >occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want one in your e=
ye.
>
> WARNING!
>
> The micro die air grinder operates at almost twice the speed of a
> dremel. Many dremel bits and attachements become extremely dangerous
> at those speeds and may fly apart with great force and velocity
> without warning. Make sure any bits or attachements are rated for
> 56,000 RPM. Dremel tools are designed for 35,000 RPM max.
>
> Full face shield and heavy gloves are a really good idea.
Very good advice. Thanks for that.
r
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
> Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
> mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
> sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
> (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
> Bill
IMO, at under $20 (incl. tax), it's worth it to see if you need the tool.
If you fabricate small parts, you'll probably find it is worth it. Keep in
mind, no tool will do the work for you but it's possible that with a little
finesse, many jobs can be made easier.
I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments (drill
press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are indispensible.
Ed
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
>>>>>>>>>>> I can go a
>>>>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
>>>>>>>>>> ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>>>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
>>>>>>>> the store!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
>>>>>>> bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
>>>>>> done in seconds. ;0)
>>>>>
>>>>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
>>>>> there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
>>>>> Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
>>>>
>>>> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
>>>> spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
>>>> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
>>>> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
>>>> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
>>>> knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
>>>> you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
>>>> pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
>>>> awhile...
>>>
>>>Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
>>>and it works fine for me.
>>
>>...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
>>anywhere close to the wires?
>
>...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
>where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
>outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
>the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
>outside of the box, and run the thing around.
Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of
the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.
>This is a close to
>perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...
Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better
Buggylugging any sheet goods.
>it
>can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
>it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
>then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
>intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
>are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
>just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...
I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.
"J. Clarke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Charlie Groh wrote:
>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
>>>>>>> can go a
>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
>>>>>> minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
>>>> to make a nice clean cut!
>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
>>>> store!
>>>
>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip.
>>> Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do
>>> the job--just take your time.
>>
>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
>> in seconds. ;0)
>
> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
> there's
> an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or
> Dremel
> is a much more satisfactory tool.
>
It all kind of boils down to "right tool for the right job". A dremel isn't
going to rip an 8' piece of plywood but OTOH your circular saw isn't going
to shape an intricate piece of maple inlay for that mahogany table you just
made.
Ed
On Nov 27, 3:17=A0am, "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote:
> You probably already figured out that I abbreviate Harbor Freight as HB.
> I've done it before
> and I can't explain why. =A0Probably should be HF.
>
Thanks for clearing that up, Bill, here I thought you were talking
about Home Bepot.
.
.
:-)
Bill wrote:
> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
> one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
> in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
> smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
> file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
> Bill
I'd go for anything *but* Dremel.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
Bill wrote:
> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
> Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
> would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
> moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
> "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
> good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
> Bill
>
>
I was given a cordless Dremel some years ago. The battery charge would
last for a few minutes and then require two hours to charge. Then I
bought one of the cheapo HF models but the power output was miserable.
Finally ended up with a Sears corded model (on sale with no bits or
attachments) and use it with the previous collections of bits. Works fine.
mahalo,
jo4hn
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
> Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
> mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
> sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
> (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
> Bill
>Bill. I have a Dremal that replaced a Sears POS. Use it maybe 10 times a
>week. Bought about 10 years ago. The most use is with diamond disks bought
>from HF. Works great. Also have a RotoZip that I use as a trim router and
>fancy edges. A lot handier on small items than my PC router. So I am
>satisfied with both items. WW
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
>> whole year
>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>
>>
>I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten minutes
>use every 5 to 7 years.
I cut threaded rod more often than that. ;-) I burned up two of them
(and fifteen of the carbide bits :-() removing grout from the bathroom
walls in the last house. I wish there were an HF in town. $20 beats
$75, twice.
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
>goes through the stuff like butter.
As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
--
Some days, it's not even worth chewing through the restraints.
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:34:13 -0800, Charlie Groh
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:37:04 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I can go a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
>>>>>>>>>>>> ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>>>>>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>>>>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>>>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>>>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
>>>>>>>>>> the store!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>>>>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>>>>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>>>>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
>>>>>>>>> bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
>>>>>>>> done in seconds. ;0)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
>>>>>>> there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
>>>>>>> Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
>>>>>> spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
>>>>>> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
>>>>>> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
>>>>>> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
>>>>>> knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
>>>>>> you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
>>>>>> pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
>>>>>> awhile...
>>>>>
>>>>>Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
>>>>>and it works fine for me.
>>>>
>>>>...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
>>>>anywhere close to the wires?
>
>>>
>>>...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
>>>where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
>>>outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
>>>the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
>>>outside of the box, and run the thing around.
>>
>>Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of
>>the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.
>
>
>...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a
>drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such
>slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra,
>usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...
The pilot "edge" on the bit has nothing to nick the wires with and the
wires should be pushed back in the box. Are you sure you were using
the right bit?
>>>This is a close to
>>>perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...
>>
>>Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better
>>Buggylugging any sheet goods.
>>
>>>it
>>>can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
>>>it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
>>>then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
>>>intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
>>>are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
>>>just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...
>>
>>I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
>>of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
>>better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
>>particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.
>
>
>...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs
>much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've
>gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to
>keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor
>with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like
>drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get
>the less stuff I seem to need!
Well, I'm not a sheetrocker (I'd have to kill myself) and even use
screws to hang what little I do. ;-) Not even RotoZip pretends that
pros use RotoZips.
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Charlie Groh wrote:
>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
>>>>>>>>>> I can go a
>>>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
>>>>>>>>> ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
>>>>>>> the store!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
>>>>>> bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>>>
>>>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
>>>>> done in seconds. ;0)
>>>>
>>>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
>>>> there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
>>>> Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
>>>
>>> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
>>> spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
>>> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
>>> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
>>> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
>>> knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
>>> you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
>>> pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
>>> awhile...
>>
>>Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
>>and it works fine for me.
>
>...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
>anywhere close to the wires?
...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
outside of the box, and run the thing around. This is a close to
perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...it
can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...
cg
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
> whole year
> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>
>
I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten minutes
use every 5 to 7 years.
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 22:17:11 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
>Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
>would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
>moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
>"unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
>What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
>good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
>Bill
>
I have a Dremmel and its great for precise tasks or getting into tight
places. If you're any kind of handyman this tool is great for more
than you might think. Sure, the $16 tool might not take the abuse of
a Dremmel so it could be good value for occasional use. I tend to put
a high value on quality tools. Dremmel is not top-rated but good
enough for me to recommend it.
"Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
>> Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
>> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
>> mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
>> sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>>
>> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
>> (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>>
>> Bill
>
> IMO, at under $20 (incl. tax), it's worth it to see if you need the tool.
Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
whole year
and not find a use for it! -Bill
> If you fabricate small parts, you'll probably find it is worth it. Keep
> in mind, no tool will do the work for you but it's possible that with a
> little finesse, many jobs can be made easier.
>
> I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
> (drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
> indispensible.
>
> Ed
Charlie Groh wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:37:04 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw <[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be
>>>>>>>>>>>>> surprised if I can go a
>>>>>>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets
>>>>>>>>>>>> about ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier
>>>>>>>>>> about a drywall repair I am making,
>>>>>>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>>>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>>>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even
>>>>>>>>>> left the store!
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>>>>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>>>>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>>>>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a
>>>>>>>>> Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get
>>>>>>>> it done in seconds. ;0)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a
>>>>>>> bench. If there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll
>>>>>>> find that the Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory
>>>>>>> tool.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em
>>>>>> on the spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
>>>>>> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
>>>>>> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
>>>>>> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the
>>>>>> saw and knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the
>>>>>> rotozip work you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or
>>>>>> the electrician gets pissed)...marking and registering are the
>>>>>> bugbears for most, but after awhile...
>>>>>
>>>>> Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had
>>>>> a helper and it works fine for me.
>>>>
>>>> ...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
>>>> anywhere close to the wires?
>
>>>
>>> ...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
>>> where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and
>>> the outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet
>>> tight to the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's
>>> just to the outside of the box, and run the thing around.
>>
>> Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside
>> of the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.
>
>
> ...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a
> drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such
> slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra,
> usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...
>>
>>> This is a close to
>>> perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...
>>
>> Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are
>> better Buggylugging any sheet goods.
>>
>>> it
>>> can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
>>> it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the
>>> verticals then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my
>>> pocket saw. Not intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I
>>> realize that there are as many ways of doing things as there are
>>> people on the planet, I just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and
>>> years ago...
>>
>> I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
>> of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
>> better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
>> particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.
>
>
> ...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs
> much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've
> gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to
> keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor
> with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like
> drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get
> the less stuff I seem to need!
The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
goes through the stuff like butter.
>
> cg
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:37:04 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
>>>>>>>>>>>> I can go a
>>>>>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
>>>>>>>>>>> ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>>>>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>>>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
>>>>>>>>> the store!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>>>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>>>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>>>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
>>>>>>>> bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
>>>>>>> done in seconds. ;0)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
>>>>>> there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
>>>>>> Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
>>>>>
>>>>> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
>>>>> spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
>>>>> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
>>>>> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
>>>>> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
>>>>> knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
>>>>> you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
>>>>> pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
>>>>> awhile...
>>>>
>>>>Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
>>>>and it works fine for me.
>>>
>>>...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
>>>anywhere close to the wires?
>>
>>...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
>>where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
>>outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
>>the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
>>outside of the box, and run the thing around.
>
>Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of
>the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.
...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a
drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such
slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra,
usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...
>
>>This is a close to
>>perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...
>
>Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better
>Buggylugging any sheet goods.
>
>>it
>>can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
>>it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
>>then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
>>intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
>>are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
>>just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...
>
>I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
>of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
>better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
>particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.
...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs
much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've
gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to
keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor
with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like
drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get
the less stuff I seem to need!
cg
You probably already figured out that I abbreviate Harbor Freight as HB.
I've done it before
and I can't explain why. Probably should be HF.
"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Ed Edelenbos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>>> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
>>> Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
>>> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in
>>> mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing
>>> sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>>>
>>> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file),
>>> (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>
>> IMO, at under $20 (incl. tax), it's worth it to see if you need the tool.
>
> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go a
> whole year
> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>
>
>
>> If you fabricate small parts, you'll probably find it is worth it. Keep
>> in mind, no tool will do the work for you but it's possible that with a
>> little finesse, many jobs can be made easier.
>>
>> I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
>> (drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
>> indispensible.
>>
>> Ed
>
>
Bill wrote:
> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
> one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
> in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
> smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
> file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power carving or the
like you seldom use but when you do use it you're glad that you have it.
If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro die
grinder
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47869.
It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
accessories like the router base and whatnot. Using it, it works like a
Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.
Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you forever
unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.
With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield. They will
occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want one in your eye.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:25:35 -0500, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>>> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
>>> one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of
>>> different tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a
>>> specific use in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in
>>> handy for smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>>>
>>> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
>>> file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>>
>> A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power
>> carving or the like you seldom use but when you do use it you're
>> glad that you have it.
>>
>> If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro
>> die grinder
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47869.
>>
>> It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
>> accessories like the router base and whatnot. Using it, it works
>> like a Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.
>>
>> Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you
>> forever unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.
>>
>> With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield.
>> They will occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want
>> one in your eye.
>
> WARNING!
>
> The micro die air grinder operates at almost twice the speed of a
> dremel. Many dremel bits and attachements become extremely dangerous
> at those speeds and may fly apart with great force and velocity
> without warning. Make sure any bits or attachements are rated for
> 56,000 RPM. Dremel tools are designed for 35,000 RPM max.
>
> Full face shield and heavy gloves are a really good idea.
I thought about putting in that warning, but the safety equipment is the
same regardless, and in practical experience I haven't had any Dremel
accessories come apart with it. In any case the small diameter limits the
velocity of the bits that come apart. I used to live in holy terror of
Dremel bits attacking me but it turned out to be pretty much a non-issue.
"krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I can go
>>> a
>>> whole year
>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>
>>>
>>I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten minutes
>>use every 5 to 7 years.
While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a drywall
repair I am making,
and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)" to make
a nice clean cut!
So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the store!
Bill
[email protected] wrote:
> On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
> <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>
>>> The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
>>> goes through the stuff like butter.
>> As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
>>
>> Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
>> work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
>
> The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
> Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
> either.
There's little reason to ever use a saw or roto-tool on drywall -- a
drywall knife scores the paper and one then breaks it w/o the dust. A
cutout is the one place but even there an 'X' and a tap does the trick
after the outline and if one has a template for the outline that also is
quick.
--
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:21:58 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:34:13 -0800, Charlie Groh
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:37:04 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 21:27:03 -0800, Charlie Groh
>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 22:49:10 -0600, krw <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>><[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I can go a
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
>>>>>>>>>>>>> ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>>>>>>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>>>>>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>>>>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>>>>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
>>>>>>>>>>> the store!
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>>>>>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>>>>>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>>>>>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
>>>>>>>>>> bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
>>>>>>>>> done in seconds. ;0)
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
>>>>>>>> there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
>>>>>>>> Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
>>>>>>> spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
>>>>>>> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
>>>>>>> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
>>>>>>> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
>>>>>>> knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
>>>>>>> you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
>>>>>>> pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
>>>>>>> awhile...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
>>>>>>and it works fine for me.
>>>>>
>>>>>...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
>>>>>anywhere close to the wires?
>>
>>>>
>>>>...OK, the way it works on commercial work is you stand the sheet
>>>>where it goes (registered by a couple of scraps on the floor) and the
>>>>outlet box is located pretty much by eyeball,push the sheet tight to
>>>>the wall, plunge the bit in and, if your're good, it's just to the
>>>>outside of the box, and run the thing around.
>>>
>>>Ok, how do you nick the wires? The business edge is on the outside of
>>>the box and the bit is riding on the pilot edge.
>>
>>
>>...hehehe...if you *miss* you're inside the box, that's all...a
>>drywall crew will, as a rule, not bother to inform anybody of such
>>slight mistakes, so when sparky gets there he's got some extra,
>>usually minor, work...they bitch and move on...
>
>The pilot "edge" on the bit has nothing to nick the wires with and the
>wires should be pushed back in the box. Are you sure you were using
>the right bit?
>
>>>>This is a close to
>>>>perfect cut and does require two guys for true speed and accuracy...
>>>
>>>Ok, two guys is faster. That's understandable. More hands are better
>>>Buggylugging any sheet goods.
>>>
>>>>it
>>>>can be done alone but certain circumstances of box positioning makes
>>>>it hard. Nowadays I eyeball down to the box and scribe the verticals
>>>>then measure the horizontals and cut the hole with my pocket saw. Not
>>>>intending on giving you guys a hard time, 'cause I realize that there
>>>>are as many ways of doing things as there are people on the planet, I
>>>>just gave up on the Rotozip thing years and years ago...
>>>
>>>I likely won't replace my cordless RotoZip, though it does work. Most
>>>of the electrical work I do is "old work", so a Multi* tool is a
>>>better choice anyway. The RotoZip does make a mess, though the dust
>>>particles are relatively large so easy to clean up.
>>
>>
>>...to each, brother. ;0) I don't do large sheetwall (dryrock) jobs
>>much anymore...usually patching having to do with kitchen work. I've
>>gotten pretty good at it, and the wall work that follows...I try to
>>keep my tools on the job to a Mikita bag/kit, my hot dog compressor
>>with a couple of guns, and my bags... and whatever speciality (like
>>drywall) tools are necessary to get the job done...and the older I get
>>the less stuff I seem to need!
>
>Well, I'm not a sheetrocker (I'd have to kill myself) and even use
>screws to hang what little I do. ;-) Not even RotoZip pretends that
>pros use RotoZips.
...you are right...no, they don't, come to think...the guys I've
observed use what amounts to a laminate router with the same bit we're
talking about...
cg
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
<novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
><[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>
>>The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
>>goes through the stuff like butter.
>
>As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
>
>Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
>work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
either.
Bill wrote:
> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
>>>> can go a
>>>> whole year
>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>
>>>>
>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
>>> minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>
>
> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
> drywall repair I am making,
> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
> to make a nice clean cut!
> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
> store!
That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered
for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got
discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use
a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.
"Charlie Groh" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Bill wrote:
>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
>>>>>> can go a
>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
>>>>> minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>
>>>
>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
>>> to make a nice clean cut!
>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
>>> store!
>>
>>That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit underpowered
>>for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel Advantage" tool that got
>>discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip. Still, for very occasional
>>use
>>a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do the job--just take your time.
>
> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
> in seconds. ;0)
That was actually the other item I brought to the register with me--but I
decided
not to get it! When I described what I wanted to do, at first he suggested
a hacksaw blade,
and then he mentioned the rotary tool.
Bill
Charlie Groh wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Bill wrote:
>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
>>>>>> can go a
>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
>>>>> minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>
>>>
>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
>>> to make a nice clean cut!
>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
>>> store!
>>
>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip.
>> Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do
>> the job--just take your time.
>
> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
> in seconds. ;0)
That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If there's
an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or Dremel
is a much more satisfactory tool.
On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 09:21:27 -0600, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 06:27:29 -0800, Larry Jaques
>> <novalidaddress@di\/ersify.com> wrote:
>>
>>> On Sat, 28 Nov 2009 03:18:49 -0500, the infamous "J. Clarke"
>>> <[email protected]> scrawled the following:
>>>
>>>> The place where the Rotozip _shines_ is plaster. Makes a pile of dust but
>>>> goes through the stuff like butter.
>>> As to Rotozip dust, always use a well-filtered shop vac with it.
>>>
>>> Like many here, I prefer a drywall saw for most of my gypsum repair
>>> work, too. I've never done a full drywall job and never want to.
>>
>> The world famous Harbor Fright multi-tool is FABULOUS for drywall.
>> Less mess and nice clean straight lines in a hurry. No crumbled edges,
>> either.
>
>There's little reason to ever use a saw or roto-tool on drywall -- a
>drywall knife scores the paper and one then breaks it w/o the dust. A
>cutout is the one place but even there an 'X' and a tap does the trick
>after the outline and if one has a template for the outline that also is
>quick.
It's the outlet box cutouts where RotoZip shows its usefulness. The
template *is* the outlet box, already hanging in the correct position
on the wall.
Charlie Groh wrote:
> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
>>>>>>>> I can go a
>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
>>>>>>> ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
>>>>> the store!
>>>>
>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
>>>> bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>
>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
>>> done in seconds. ;0)
>>
>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
>> there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
>> Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
>
> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
> spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
> knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
> you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
> pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
> awhile...
Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
and it works fine for me.
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 23:09:46 -0500, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Charlie Groh wrote:
>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Charlie Groh wrote:
>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Bill wrote:
>>>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW"
>>>>>>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if
>>>>>>>>> I can go a
>>>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about
>>>>>>>> ten minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary
>>>>>> tool)" to make a nice clean cut!
>>>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left
>>>>>> the store!
>>>>>
>>>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out
>>>>> Rotozip. Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip
>>>>> bit will do the job--just take your time.
>>>>
>>>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it
>>>> done in seconds. ;0)
>>>
>>> That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If
>>> there's an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the
>>> Rotozip or Dremel is a much more satisfactory tool.
>>
>> I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
>> spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
>> covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
>> carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
>> jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
>> knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
>> you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
>> pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
>> awhile...
>
>Why do you need a helper to make a rotozip work? I've never had a helper
>and it works fine for me.
...and nicking wires? Why does the business edge of the bit come
anywhere close to the wires?
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 19:37:16 -0500, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Charlie Groh wrote:
>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:39:17 -0500, "J. Clarke"
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> "krw" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>> On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:13:01 -0800, "CW" <[email protected]>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Bill" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:[email protected]...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks Ed, I sort of feel that way too. I''ll be surprised if I
>>>>>>> can go a
>>>>>>> whole year
>>>>>>> and not find a use for it! -Bill
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've had a Dremel for about 25 years. It generally gets about ten
>>>>>> minutes use every 5 to 7 years.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> While I was purchasing it, I was questioning the cashier about a
>>>> drywall repair I am making,
>>>> and he said "hey, you can even use this cutter (on the rotary tool)"
>>>> to make a nice clean cut!
>>>> So, the rotary tool got it's first assignment before I even left the
>>>> store!
>>>
>>> That's what the Rotozip _does_. The regular Dremel is a bit
>>> underpowered for it--that's why they used to make a "Dremel
>>> Advantage" tool that got discontinued when Bosch bought out Rotozip.
>>> Still, for very occasional use a Dremel with a Rotozip bit will do
>>> the job--just take your time.
>>
>> ...or take your drywall (keyhole with large teeth) saw and get it done
>> in seconds. ;0)
>
>That works fine if you're cutting a piece of drywall on a bench. If there's
>an electrical box or studs behind it you'll find that the Rotozip or Dremel
>is a much more satisfactory tool.
I never cut drywall on a bench (patches, I bend down and do 'em on the
spot), sheets are usually leaning on the surface to be
covered...dunno, been doing drywall repair as an adjunct to my
carpenter/cabinet one-man biz for 20 years...and have hung entire
jobs. Tried all the new things and *always* come back to the saw and
knife. Cleaner and in most cases quicker (to make the rotozip work
you need a helper...and don't nick the wiring or the electrician gets
pissed)...marking and registering are the bugbears for most, but after
awhile...
cg
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 00:44:27 -0700, "Rudy" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
>> (drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
>> indispensible.
>
>I have the Craftsman knock off of the RotoZip..sort of like a Dremel on HGH.
>1/4" collet but I have 2-3 versions of the 1/4 to 1/8" adapter to take the
>1/8" standard Dremel mandrels.
>Comes in handy often especially with the 2" cut off discs. I found the
>standard Dremel tools too wimpy
I have a cordless RotoZip too. It's great for cutting holes in
sheetrock and I've used the circle cutter a number of times. It
didn't like the Hardi-backer dist much though. The bearings are
pretty well shot. It looks like the Milti* tools are better at the
things I use the RotoZip for so it'll likely not be replaced.
> I have a bunch of them, Craftsman, Ryobi, and Dremel, and attachments
> (drill press, router base, etc.). For lots of tasks, they are
> indispensible.
I have the Craftsman knock off of the RotoZip..sort of like a Dremel on HGH.
1/4" collet but I have 2-3 versions of the 1/4 to 1/8" adapter to take the
1/8" standard Dremel mandrels.
Comes in handy often especially with the 2" cut off discs. I found the
standard Dremel tools too wimpy
On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 08:25:35 -0500, "J. Clarke"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>> HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>> (half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least
>> one Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different
>> tool-bits would be available. Although I do not have a specific use
>> in mind at the moment, it seems like it might come in handy for
>> smoothing sharp edges and "unanticipated" tasks like that.
>>
>> What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a
>> file), (2) good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
>A Dremel is one of those things that unless you're into power carving or the
>like you seldom use but when you do use it you're glad that you have it.
>
>If you have a compressor though carefully consider HF's little micro die
>grinder
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47869.
>
>It uses Dremel bits and works fine with Dremel collets, but not the
>accessories like the router base and whatnot. Using it, it works like a
>Dremel is _supposed_ to work and never did for me.
>
>Being an air tool, if you take care of it it will likely last you forever
>unless you're beating the crap out of it every day.
>
>With _any_ rotary tool wear good safety glasses or a face shield. They will
>occasionally break cutters and when they do you don't want one in your eye.
WARNING!
The micro die air grinder operates at almost twice the speed of a
dremel. Many dremel bits and attachements become extremely dangerous
at those speeds and may fly apart with great force and velocity
without warning. Make sure any bits or attachements are rated for
56,000 RPM. Dremel tools are designed for 35,000 RPM max.
Full face shield and heavy gloves are a really good idea.
On Thu, 26 Nov 2009 22:17:11 -0500, "Bill" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>HB sent me a coupon through email for a Dremel-like tool for $15.99
>(half-price). It comes with 1/8" and 3/32" collets (I know at least one
>Dremel tool has 1/8" collets) so I expect that a lot of different tool-bits
>would be available. Although I do not have a specific use in mind at the
>moment, it seems like it might come in handy for smoothing sharp edges and
>"unanticipated" tasks like that.
>
>What's the verdict: (1) useless, or redundant (could just use a file), (2)
>good value, (3) insist on Dremel?
>
>Bill
...well, *my* Dremel broke after a couple of years...and maybe two
hours of use. I don't see how you can go wrong for 16 bux...heck, I'm
on the way...
cg