knife scales

On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 5:54:06 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 18 May 2017 06:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
> Bill Leonhardt <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > I've made a couple of the kits sold by Rockler. I chose not to use
> > epoxy. I planed the material to desired thickness than traced the
>
> i will use epoxy and screws
> the epoxy is good for waterproofing

Not sure why you need to waterproof, but OK.
>
> > knife outline on the wood. I also transferred the location of the
> > screw holes. Counter bored the screw holes and then trimmed the
>
> what kind of screws does the kit have

The kit had tiny socket head (internal hex) cap screws. The kit also supplied a hex key for tightening. Oh yeah, now I remember. Don't pay attention to the drill sizes in the instructions. Just measure the screws and select the sizes yourself.
>
> > shape to almost final. Assembled the skins on the knife and "final"
> > sanded the edges to my liking, careful to not scuff the steel. I
> > can't remember if I removed the skins to apply either Bush oil or
> > BLO. It only matters if you want oil on the bf the skin.
>
> yes i think getting the shape close to final is the way to go
>
>
> i did watch some videos and the knife making subculture likes to
> use the thin and long variety of belt sander to remove material
> very quickly and then buff metal as needed
>
I never watched any videos. I think the belt sander your describing can be had at HF for $19.95 less 20%. Good reports on its performance.
>
>
> > BTW, the blade in these kits comes reasonably sharp (i.e., hard to
> > get the blood off the skin). :-)
>
> wrapped my blank blade with two layers of masking tape as i saw in
> the videos

I've made a couple of the kits sold by Rockler. I chose not to use epoxy. =
I planed the material to desired thickness than traced the knife outline o=
n the wood. I also transferred the location of the screw holes. Counter b=
ored the screw holes and then trimmed the shape to almost final. Assembled=
the skins on the knife and "final" sanded the edges to my liking, careful =
to not scuff the steel. I can't remember if I removed the skins to apply ei=
ther Bush oil or BLO. It only matters if you want oil on the bf the skin.

BTW, the blade in these kits comes reasonably sharp (i.e., hard to get the =
blood off the skin). :-)

Bill

On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 6:13:52 PM UTC-4, Electric Comet wrote:
> knife handle pieces are called knife scales
>=20
> anyone out there made knife handles
>=20
> two schools of thought on it
>=20
> one gets the scale very close to the final size of the handle part of
> the knife blank then affix via epoxy
> the contour is also done
>=20
>=20
> the other just does a rough approximation with litte to no work on the
> scales
>=20
> for both cases one side is affixed and then hole are drilled as needed
> then the second scale is affixed
>=20
>=20
> seems to me the best approach is to get the scale as close as possible
> to the final shape and size then affix to the knife blank
>=20
> there does not seem to be any advantage to me for attaching the scales
> in rough form
>=20
> maybe there is some good reason but it is not clear

On Thu, 18 May 2017 06:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
Bill Leonhardt <[email protected]> wrote:

> I've made a couple of the kits sold by Rockler. I chose not to use
> epoxy. I planed the material to desired thickness than traced the

i will use epoxy and screws
the epoxy is good for waterproofing

> knife outline on the wood. I also transferred the location of the
> screw holes. Counter bored the screw holes and then trimmed the

what kind of screws does the kit have

> shape to almost final. Assembled the skins on the knife and "final"
> sanded the edges to my liking, careful to not scuff the steel. I
> can't remember if I removed the skins to apply either Bush oil or
> BLO. It only matters if you want oil on the bf the skin.

yes i think getting the shape close to final is the way to go


i did watch some videos and the knife making subculture likes to
use the thin and long variety of belt sander to remove material
very quickly and then buff metal as needed



> BTW, the blade in these kits comes reasonably sharp (i.e., hard to
> get the blood off the skin). :-)

wrapped my blank blade with two layers of masking tape as i saw in
the videos

On Sun, 21 May 2017 19:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
Bill Leonhardt <[email protected]> wrote:

> Not sure why you need to waterproof, but OK.

cross purpose knife and had longevity in mind

perhaps it lasts long enough to get handed down


> The kit had tiny socket head (internal hex) cap screws. The kit also
> supplied a hex key for tightening. Oh yeah, now I remember. Don't
> pay attention to the drill sizes in the instructions. Just measure
> the screws and select the sizes yourself.

funny you mention that i did end up doing that

found the right bits in my assortment

got some slot screw head type that are meant to be ground off flush
once secured


> I never watched any videos. I think the belt sander your describing

well some of the videos are inspiring some are tiring some are funny
lots to learn from success and failure

some are honest and forward enough to show their mistakes and others
of course edit those out



> can be had at HF for $19.95 less 20%. Good reports on its
> performance.


will have to look at hf
in the videos i saw a couple that had 48 inch belts

seems to be a lot of pride in their belt sanders

On Sun, 21 May 2017 19:08:20 -0700 (PDT)
Bill Leonhardt <[email protected]> wrote:

> I never watched any videos. I think the belt sander your describing
> can be had at HF for $19.95 less 20%. Good reports on its
> performance.

finally got around to looking at hf
i see a 1 x 30 belt sander but not 20 bucks

which one do you mean