Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
Thank you.
II
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
> when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
> I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
> end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
> 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
Maybe. What are you cutting? How many teeth per inch on the blade? Has
the saw been set up properly to track straight? Are the guides set right?
Bearings? Are you cutting freehand or using a fence?
Well, I have to admit that the saw does vibrate ALOT and that I haven't
checked the guides for lateral movement in some time. I think there may
be something to comment about it being partly the saw too. This bandsaw
is really cheap model from Sears and leaves much to be desired! I will
take a look at all the things you guys have mentioned.........you are a
great help, thank you!
II
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
> when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
> I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
> end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
> 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
>
> Thank you.
>
> II
>
Wider blades generally provide for straighter cuts. You also need to adjust
your fence for blade drift.
Leon wrote:
> "RM MS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"You also need to adjust your fence for blade drift."
>>********************************Fence? Blade drift?
>>
>>Not related.
>>
>
>
> You don't think? I read that as the cut was not following the line.
I saw that too, second time around. I'm sticking with the first
interpretation!
er
--
email not valid
"RM MS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "You also need to adjust your fence for blade drift."
> ********************************Fence? Blade drift?
>
> Not related.
>
You don't think? I read that as the cut was not following the line.
I read 'blade drift' to mean the blade was not cutting where it was
pointed at. This can be caused by a crooked or bent bade, a blade with
too much pressure on the rear bearing, too little blade tension, or the
workpiece is not flat or warped, the cut closes as it is cut, any number
of things besides the fence. If you cannot hold the piece against and
follow the fence, t is not a blade problem
"RM MS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I read 'blade drift' to mean the blade was not cutting where it was
> pointed at. This can be caused by a crooked or bent bade, a blade with
> too much pressure on the rear bearing, too little blade tension, or the
> workpiece is not flat or warped, the cut closes as it is cut, any number
> of things besides the fence. If you cannot hold the piece against and
> follow the fence, t is not a blade problem
>
You probably read correctly.
I've also just read that another cause is because only one side of the
blade (the inside) is against the wheels. The outside of the blade
never rubs against anything - that can make the inward set teeth wear
differently from the outward set teeth.
On Mon, 17 Apr 2006 13:52:20 -0400, [email protected] (RM MS) wrote:
>I read 'blade drift' to mean the blade was not cutting where it was
>pointed at. This can be caused by a crooked or bent bade, a blade with
>too much pressure on the rear bearing, too little blade tension, or the
>workpiece is not flat or warped, the cut closes as it is cut, any number
>of things besides the fence. If you cannot hold the piece against and
>follow the fence, t is not a blade problem
"Toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
>> when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
>> I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
>> end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
>> 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
>>
> Certainly a wider blade is for straight cuts, and a 1/4" is fairly thin.
> Or it could just be the bandsaw...
> I used to borrow a friends when I needed a bandsaw and could never cut
> anything straight, or accurately follow a curve. I figured bandsaws were
> over rated.
> Then I bought my own. It cuts straight when I want it to, and follows
> curves pretty easily. YMMV
Check your blade tension first. If it's not set for your type blade i. e.
1/2, 3/8", etc. your cuts will be crappy.
[email protected] wrote:
> Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
> when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
> I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
> end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
> 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
A deeper blade helps, yes. You should be able to get pretty smooth cuts
even with a 1/4" blade though, with only light planing necessary to
smooth it. I think the main purpose of a deeper blade, though, is to
keep the cut straight.
If you aren't getting that now, and don't want to buy a deeper blade,
there are a number of things you can look for to get a smoother cut,
including reducing vibration in the saw, ensuring the guides are
properly set to limit lateral movement of the blade, checking the wheels
for dirt, making sure the drive train is balanced, and properly
tensioning the blade. Fussy, innit?
er
--
email not valid
"RM MS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Bandsaw is not meant to be a precision machine, but some consderations
> may help: Smooth weld on the blade, no kinks, go SLOWER, go EVEN SLOWER,
> keep bearing close to the job. Use spindle sander after. LOL
>
I know you use big industrial band saws but I have seen band saws do some
pretty precise resawing and ripping. And by precise I am comparing to my
TS that typically leaves no tooth marks.
"RM MS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I never said you cannot do some nice work on a bandsaw. We also use
> smaller ones, but as has been related here, everyhing must be pretty
> shipshpe to get a nice finish, and it will never be as nice as a planed
> or scraped surface, nor was it ever intended to be.
>
Agreed.
[email protected] wrote:
> I tightened up the guides and I also increased the tension on the
> blade. These small adjustments made a BIG difference in the cuts. I
> will buy a deeper blade tomorrow and see if additional improvements
> can be made. Thank you for the help guys!
If by "deeper" you mean wider and you want a wonderful blade for
resawing, get a Wood Slicer blade from Highland Hardware - *much* better
than the Timber Wolf blades.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
> when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
> I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
> end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
> 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
>
> Thank you.
>
> II
>
Where are you located? It sounds like you could use some help to take you
to the next level. I am outside Seattle and would be happy to give you a
hand.
On 16 Apr 2006 16:16:34 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
>when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
>I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
>end up with some hills and valleys
You always will. It's not a finishing blade as in a TS. That's why
sandpaper was invented.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
> when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
> I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
> end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin, may
> 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
>
Certainly a wider blade is for straight cuts, and a 1/4" is fairly thin.
Or it could just be the bandsaw...
I used to borrow a friends when I needed a bandsaw and could never cut
anything straight, or accurately follow a curve. I figured bandsaws were
over rated.
Then I bought my own. It cuts straight when I want it to, and follows
curves pretty easily. YMMV
[email protected] wrote:
> Is there a trick to making more accurate bandsaw cuts? Try as I might,
> when I cut pieces out there is small ups and downs along the cut line.
> I try to go slow and stay on the line or along one edge of it but stil
> end up with some hills and valleys. My bandsaw blade is quite thin,
> may 1/4", do you suppose going to a thicker blade would help?
Do you mean...
1. that the cut wanders from the line? That's your fault.
2. that the cut isn't smooth? That's the way bandsaw blades cut -
rough from the tooth marks. But the roughness should be easily removed
with sanding/scraping. If it is rougher than you think it should be,
make sure the blade tension is right and try different feed rates.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico