On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 23:34:13 GMT, "Gordon W" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Consensus:- par for the course, drain regularly.
>Will do.
>It's comforting to know I'm not alone in this boat.
Automatic drain valves are available. They "burp" the drain valve
each time the compressor starts, forcing out water.
Barry
Gordon W <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
> The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
> each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
> stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
> TIA
> Gordon
>
Thank you all for your time and advice.
Consensus:- par for the course, drain regularly.
Will do.
It's comforting to know I'm not alone in this boat.
Thanks again
Gordon
On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 00:27:03 GMT, Jim Wilson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> Do I hear "truck breakers yard, and a real automatic water-actuated
>> compressed air brake reservoir drain valve ?"
>
>Interesting, that idea. What is it, and how's it work?
They work by voodoo. Or something. Had them to pieces when I was a
kid, never really worked it out.
I think it relies on a diaphram with a balanced presure on each side.
There's a pinhole leak (one on each side ?), and if the pinhole fills
with water then it stops being a leak, the pressure on one side
increases and the diaphram deflects, triggering the drain valve.
They work fine when they work, but I think they're touchy about air
that's not clean, or has rust particles in it from the tank.
--
Smert' spamionam
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> A cheaper alternative is to replace the original drain valve with a
> length of pipe to a valve mounted somewhere convenient on the upper
> side of the compressor.
Can you please elaborate on this? I'm having trouble understanding how
the water is released when it is higher than the base of the tank. I'm
not trying to be a smarta$$. (That comes naturally) I have seen
compressors with strange pipes connected and was wondering what they
did.
Thanks.
ET
Andy Dingley <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> On 16 Nov 2004 05:39:34 -0800, [email protected] (mnterpfan) wrote:
> Doesn't matter - so long as the connection to the tank is at the
> bottom of the tank, then you can hang as much pipework on the outlet
> as you like. After all, there's 130psi of air in there to blow it out
> (that's a couple of hundred feet straight up).
Oh, okay. I was assuming that the pressure had been released before
draining the tank. Thanks.
On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 10:23:11 -0500, Upscale <[email protected]> wrote:
> "max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> No, I think it's safe. Have had several compressors fail. Generally you
> get
>> a pin hole leak and the thing won't shut off. Each time it has been at the
>> weld on the very bottom of the tank. Tanks are usually certified and very
>> safe.
>> I have tried welding the leaks. Doesn't work.
>
> Replace the tank at that point or just buy a whole new compressor?
In my experience, the motor/pump will go before the tank does. I base
this statement on the surplus of tanks from used compressors, and the
absence of surplus pumps for same. Maybe it's a local, isolated thing
in my area, but I don't think so.
Dave Hinz
On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 23:48:55 GMT, Ba r r y
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Automatic drain valves are available.
A cheaper alternative is to replace the original drain valve with a
length of pipe to a valve mounted somewhere convenient on the upper
side of the compressor.
If, like many people, your compressor is pushed away under a bench or
acoustic cover, this can make the difference between draining the tank
whenever you switch off, or never draining it at all. it can also
help avoid the "leaky puppy" effect on the workshop floor.
--
Smert' spamionam
Buck Turgidson wrote:
> > It's par for the course Gordon. Moisture is a byproduct of compressing
> air.
> > Your tank is the perfect environment for moisture to collect as water.
> It's
> > going to happen. Drain your tank frequently, or install an automatic tank
> > drain that pops off every time the compressor cycles. Those cost around
> $20
> > (I believe) at Harbor Freight. FWIW, your tank will last for years and
> > years and years if you drain it on some regular basis. It does not have
> to
> > be every day. Drain it weekly or even a little longer and that tank will
> > last almost forever. You'd be surprised how many compressors have never
> > been drained and they still pump air 15 years later.
> > --
>
> Are there any safety issues with a rusty tank, such as a situation where you
> can't tell that the integrity has been compromised to due to rust, and it
> explodes? I worry about that with my compressor.
Wrong, If you have rust thru, it will start as a pin hole leak and not explode.
Unless the static from your
DC jumps over and blows it up.
r.
>> --
>
>Are there any safety issues with a rusty tank, such as a situation where you
>can't tell that the integrity has been compromised to due to rust, and it
>explodes? I worry about that with my compressor.
>
Your tank will NOT explode....at least because of rust.... at some
point it may blow out and loose all the air, making a lot of noise
etc. BUT it will not explode...
I use my compressor almost daily and I drain it and leave the think
open when not in use... lasted me 40 years now...no signs of rust
YET... Figure my grandchildren may be using it when it finally rusts
thru...long after I am pushing up weeds..
Bob Griffiths
> It's par for the course Gordon. Moisture is a byproduct of compressing
air.
> Your tank is the perfect environment for moisture to collect as water.
It's
> going to happen. Drain your tank frequently, or install an automatic tank
> drain that pops off every time the compressor cycles. Those cost around
$20
> (I believe) at Harbor Freight. FWIW, your tank will last for years and
> years and years if you drain it on some regular basis. It does not have
to
> be every day. Drain it weekly or even a little longer and that tank will
> last almost forever. You'd be surprised how many compressors have never
> been drained and they still pump air 15 years later.
> --
Are there any safety issues with a rusty tank, such as a situation where you
can't tell that the integrity has been compromised to due to rust, and it
explodes? I worry about that with my compressor.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Gordon W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi
> > The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
> > each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
> > stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
> > TIA
> > Gordon
> >
>
> It's par for the course Gordon. Moisture is a byproduct of compressing
air.
> Your tank is the perfect environment for moisture to collect as water.
It's
> going to happen. Drain your tank frequently, or install an automatic tank
> drain that pops off every time the compressor cycles. Those cost around
$20
> (I believe) at Harbor Freight. FWIW, your tank will last for years and
> years and years if you drain it on some regular basis. It does not have
to
> be every day. Drain it weekly or even a little longer and that tank will
> last almost forever. You'd be surprised how many compressors have never
> been drained and they still pump air 15 years later.
> --
>
> -Mike-
> [email protected]
>
>
My first tank I never drained. 7 years later it got a pin hole leak. When I
finally drained it nearly two gallons of rusty muck water drained out. I
replaced the tank (not that expensive, repairing air tanks is a real
dangerous thing to do I am told), and now I drain it every week or so.
I think if you added a pre filter to remove moisture it would help.
Once, I tried adding a motorcycle gas tank sealer in the tank and made a
real mess. The solution is for the manufacturers to coat the inside or use
non ferrous tank material.
max
>
> "Gordon W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi
>> The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
>> each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
>> stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
>> TIA
>> Gordon
>>
>
> Drain it daily.
>
>
No, I think it's safe. Have had several compressors fail. Generally you get
a pin hole leak and the thing won't shut off. Each time it has been at the
weld on the very bottom of the tank. Tanks are usually certified and very
safe.
I have tried welding the leaks. Doesn't work.
max
>> It's par for the course Gordon. Moisture is a byproduct of compressing
> air.
>> Your tank is the perfect environment for moisture to collect as water.
> It's
>> going to happen. Drain your tank frequently, or install an automatic tank
>> drain that pops off every time the compressor cycles. Those cost around
> $20
>> (I believe) at Harbor Freight. FWIW, your tank will last for years and
>> years and years if you drain it on some regular basis. It does not have
> to
>> be every day. Drain it weekly or even a little longer and that tank will
>> last almost forever. You'd be surprised how many compressors have never
>> been drained and they still pump air 15 years later.
>> --
>
> Are there any safety issues with a rusty tank, such as a situation where you
> can't tell that the integrity has been compromised to due to rust, and it
> explodes? I worry about that with my compressor.
>
>
I have done both. If it is a high quality compressor I will try and find a
tank. Usually parts are more expensive than the whole thing. You have to add
in the labor of moving everything over. I usually sell the old compressor
with the bad tank and it makes it economical to buy a new one.
max
> "max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> No, I think it's safe. Have had several compressors fail. Generally you
> get
>> a pin hole leak and the thing won't shut off. Each time it has been at the
>> weld on the very bottom of the tank. Tanks are usually certified and very
>> safe.
>> I have tried welding the leaks. Doesn't work.
>
> Replace the tank at that point or just buy a whole new compressor?
>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
some people wrote:
<...>
>> Do I hear "truck breakers yard, and a real automatic water-actuated
>> compressed air brake reservoir drain valve ?"
>
>Interesting, that idea. What is it, and how's it work? I love to put a
>tossed-out part back into good service somewhere.
>
Speaking from 27 years experience as a truck and heavy equipment and
supervisor, I'd have to say that they don't work all that well and I
wouldn't bother with one that came form a scrap yard. Every air brake
truck made still has a manual drain valve installed on the air tanks.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Gordon W" writes:
> The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
> each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
> stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
Yes & No.
A certain amount of rust is par for the course; however, leave the drain
open when not in service to minimize rust.
HTH
Lew
"Gordon W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
> The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
> each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
> stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
> TIA
> Gordon
>
It's par for the course Gordon. Moisture is a byproduct of compressing air.
Your tank is the perfect environment for moisture to collect as water. It's
going to happen. Drain your tank frequently, or install an automatic tank
drain that pops off every time the compressor cycles. Those cost around $20
(I believe) at Harbor Freight. FWIW, your tank will last for years and
years and years if you drain it on some regular basis. It does not have to
be every day. Drain it weekly or even a little longer and that tank will
last almost forever. You'd be surprised how many compressors have never
been drained and they still pump air 15 years later.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Try this link - nice instructions
http://www.paragoncode.com/shop/compressor/
-George-
"Jim Wilson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Andy Dingley wrote...
>> On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 23:48:55 GMT, Ba r r y
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Automatic drain valves are available.
>>
>> A cheaper alternative is to replace the original drain valve with a
>> length of pipe to a valve mounted somewhere convenient on the upper
>> side of the compressor.
>
> Maybe not much cheaper, though, if at all. The Harbor Freight automatic
> drain kits were still right at $10 US last I checked.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Jim
"Gordon W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi
> The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
> each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
> stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
> TIA
> Gordon
>
Drain it daily.
Lawrence Wasserman wrote...
>
> Speaking from 27 years experience as a truck and heavy equipment and
> supervisor, I'd have to say that they don't work all that well and I
> wouldn't bother with one that came form a scrap yard. Every air brake
> truck made still has a manual drain valve installed on the air tanks.
Ah, well. But how are they *supposed* to work? The actuator, I mean.
Thanks,
Jim
>
>Are there any safety issues with a rusty tank, such as a situation where you
>can't tell that the integrity has been compromised to due to rust, and it
>explodes? I worry about that with my compressor.
>
>
Not saying it is impossible, but usually when a steel air tank rusts
out, it gets pinoles or small cracks near the bottom, where water
accumulates. I've seen a few where this happened, but have never seen
or heard of a tank exploding because of rust. As long as you drain the
tank regularly you should be OK. Sometimes consumer-grade tanks have
a "stop using on" date marked on them.
--
Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
[email protected]
"Dave Hinz" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> In my experience, the motor/pump will go before the tank does. I base
> this statement on the surplus of tanks from used compressors, and the
> absence of surplus pumps for same. Maybe it's a local, isolated thing
> in my area, but I don't think so.
>
> Dave Hinz
I doubt is a local or isolated thing, probably more in line with how much
the compressor is used. One used daily will probably wear out before the
tank rusts through.. If the compressor tank rusts out first it may have
only been used occasionally and the water not trained.
On 16 Nov 2004 05:39:34 -0800, [email protected] (mnterpfan) wrote:
>Can you please elaborate on this? I'm having trouble understanding how
>the water is released when it is higher than the base of the tank.
Doesn't matter - so long as the connection to the tank is at the
bottom of the tank, then you can hang as much pipework on the outlet
as you like. After all, there's 130psi of air in there to blow it out
(that's a couple of hundred feet straight up).
--
Smert' spamionam
On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 23:00:39 GMT, Jim Wilson <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Maybe not much cheaper, though, if at all. The Harbor Freight automatic
>drain kits were still right at $10 US last I checked.
I'll see your Harbour Freight "complicated pneumatic device for only
$10" and raise you my "lifetime's scrapbox of assorted plumbing
fittings".
Do I hear any advance ?
Do I hear "truck breakers yard, and a real automatic water-actuated
compressed air brake reservoir drain valve ?"
--
Smert' spamionam
sigh...
Despite what the others have said there is the fact that
when the compressor is compressing the act of compressing
causes the air being compressed to become very hot. When
the compressed air goes from the piston chamber to the tank
it cools. This heating and cooling causes condensation so
no amount of doing things on the outside of the tank will
change things.
Draining the tank only empties what has settled to the
bottom of the tank. There will still be condensation on the
tank sides and this will continue to rust the tank from the
inside out. Not saying draining is worthless, just that you
aren't getting all the condensation.
My advice (advise in wreckspeak) is live with it.
Now, keeping the condensation from entering the lines,
that's a whole nudder kettle of fish and can be dealt with
by adding a separator.
UA100
"max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> No, I think it's safe. Have had several compressors fail. Generally you
get
> a pin hole leak and the thing won't shut off. Each time it has been at the
> weld on the very bottom of the tank. Tanks are usually certified and very
> safe.
> I have tried welding the leaks. Doesn't work.
Replace the tank at that point or just buy a whole new compressor?
Andy Dingley wrote...
> I'll see your Harbour Freight "complicated pneumatic device for only
> $10" and raise you my "lifetime's scrapbox of assorted plumbing
> fittings".
>
> Do I hear any advance ?
Har! I happen to have one of them there complicated devices [*] in my
(prolly shorter-lifetime) scrapbox of assorted plumbing fittings! So,
there, they're free! (G)
> Do I hear "truck breakers yard, and a real automatic water-actuated
> compressed air brake reservoir drain valve ?"
Interesting, that idea. What is it, and how's it work? I love to put a
tossed-out part back into good service somewhere.
Jim
[*] Which item, by the way, reminds me of an issue. The "complicated
pneumatic devices" don't work so well on a negligent friend's compressor
tank what went undrained for seven years. Even after emptying, his tank
still spit mud -- I.e., oxidized receiver innards -- and clogged up the
auto-drainer-valve works for weeks. Eventually, we just gave up on it and
stuck in a ball valve instead. He tells me he's going to replace that
compressor....
Andy Dingley wrote...
> On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 23:48:55 GMT, Ba r r y
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Automatic drain valves are available.
>
> A cheaper alternative is to replace the original drain valve with a
> length of pipe to a valve mounted somewhere convenient on the upper
> side of the compressor.
Maybe not much cheaper, though, if at all. The Harbor Freight automatic
drain kits were still right at $10 US last I checked.
Cheers,
Jim
On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 08:51:35 -0500, "Buck Turgidson"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Are there any safety issues with a rusty tank, such as a situation where you
>can't tell that the integrity has been compromised to due to rust, and it
>explodes?
This is possible, but it's incredibly rare. Mainly it can be avoided
by good design. You can tell where the cylinder will begin to rust,
and the design should ensure that area is strong enough that you don't
get a "zipper" failure. A pinhole leak can be so small that you hear
it whistling before you notice the leakage.
I've seen the aftermath of a couple of explosive compressor failures.
One was enormous (a compressor big enough to have its own building),
but the other was a small paint-sprayer, assembled from scrap parts.
This had a flat-ended tank which had been stood on end. Pooled water
had caused rust around most of the welded seam, so when it failed, the
whole end of the tank came off. No injuries, but there would have
been if anyone had been near the tank when it went.
--
Smert' spamionam
On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 05:29:05 GMT, "Gordon W" <[email protected]>
calmly ranted:
>Hi
>The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
>each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
>stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
AFAIK, it's PFTC. OTOH, you might ask these guys if the stuff
works on compressor tanks. Tank expansion might be a problem.
http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/epoxygas.htm
http://www.canada-por15.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TS&Category_Code=TankSealers
-------------------------------------------------
- Boldly going - * Wondrous Website Design
- nowhere. - * http://www.diversify.com
-------------------------------------------------
I crack mine to maintain a TINY leak.
Wilson
"Gordon W" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Gordon W <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Hi
> > The compressor is only a couple of months old and I drain the tank after
> > each use. The other day I noticed the water was rusty. Is there a way of
> > stopping rust or is this just par for the course ?
> > TIA
> > Gordon
> >
> Thank you all for your time and advice.
>
> Consensus:- par for the course, drain regularly.
> Will do.
> It's comforting to know I'm not alone in this boat.
>
> Thanks again
>
> Gordon
>