Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
I appreciate all the advice.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 5/1/13 10:59 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 5/1/2013 3:56 PM, Sonny wrote:
>>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:24:27 PM UTC-5, chaniarts wrote:
>>>> On 5/1/2013 chaniarts wrote: >
>>> btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're
>>> pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to
>>> work correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some
>>> hard art glasses don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the
>>> score to snap.
>>>
>>> Scoring too hard! Probably exactly why I've never had very many clean
>>> cuts/snaps of the glass I've tried cutting, despite most of my glass
>>> cutting having been on older, used glass. I had always blamed the old
>>> glass. Thanks.
>>>
>>> Sonny
>>>
>>
>>
>> Keep in mind your breaks will be better and easier if you snap the glass
>> immediately after scoring.
>
>
> How's that?
>
I do not the exact reasoning other than how it was explained to me by my
instructor some 30 tears ago. Glass is technically a liquid vs. a solid,
it heals itself. I have never verified the next example of glass being in
a liquid type state but it is said that the stained glass in old church
windows is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.
On 5/2/2013 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:> On Thursday, May 2, 2013 7:28:16 AM
UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>
> > I do not the exact reasoning other than how it was explained to
me by my instructor some 30 tears ago. Glass is technically a liquid vs.
a solid, it heals itself. I have never verified the next example of
glass being in a liquid type state but it is said that the stained glass
in old church windows is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.
>
> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost all
glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the bottom, with
waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably deflect light.
>
> Additionally:
> Glass exposed to UV light for ~~75yrs starts to turn blue, has a blue
shade to it, only noticeable with clear glass, i.e., an aspect to help
in dating/aging glass, bottles, jars, etc.
Ah yes! I had almost forgotten that the light will trun in color when
exposed to the UV light.
AAMOF my grand mother and aunts collected old looking clear glass
bottles and placed them inside a wooden box lined with aluminum foil.
They used a florescent UV lamp on the lid to constantly shine for
several months. At the end of what seemed 3~4 months the glass would
actually have a purplish cast.
A funny note, my grandmother in her 70's back in the 60's would watch
the process with the lid partiality opened, no knowing that the process
was going to take a long time. She ended up with a sunburn around her
eyes. Not bad, just enough to appear really odd. LOL
> I assume this info is fact, learned as a self taught amature bottle
collector, back in high school and a bit beyond.
A correct assumption although the artificial process yielded the
slightly different color.
>
> I've always understood cutting older glass panes may not always
cut/snap clean, because of its unevenness.
>
> No telling what other mistakes I made, besides 1) scoring too hard,
then 2) pausing before snapping, to inspect that the score mark was
visible and, if not, score it again. <---> What was that thread,
"Pretend you know an idiot"? Ibid.
>
> Sonny
>
I mentioned immediately, What i should have indicated was don't score
all of your glass and then break it. Breaking is the very next step in
the process of cutting. Basically don't score the glass until you are
ready to snap it. Also do not rescore, run the glass cutter in one
continuous fluid motion. Only press hard enough to hear the cutter working.
And then cutting concave curves is another matter altogether. You do
need to score the curved shape and then make several relief cuts to
slowly remove material up to your desired curve. And grozing plyers are
involved to literally break out chunks.
Much more fun cutting a convex curve.
On 5/2/2013 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 5/2/13 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:
>> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost all
>> glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the bottom, with
>> waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably deflect light.
>>
>
> Old wives' tale. Explain how some old windows are thicker at the top, or
> one side, or both sides or top and bottom. It's not gravity. It's
> because of the way the glass was manufactured back them. They didn't
> have the technology to make a uniform thickness.
>
>
first off I am not talking about plain clear glass, I was only
referencing "stained glass"
If you have looked that up to determine an old wives tale I can't doubt
you. But the church stained glass that I was talking about, while is
not perfect uniform thickness, the glass in stained glass windows is not
cut in a uniform way like you would cut wood. Stained glass is cut at
any particular angle. Two identical pieces of glass may have been cut
at 90 degrees from each other. Because stained glass is not uniform in
texture and or internal coloring you hunt out the spot in the glass and
cut it out.
With that in mind the stained glass would not all be wider on the bottom.
On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>
>
>
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> Should I use a chamfer or cove bit on my router table to the edges, leave alone, or just lightly sand over the edges?
>
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>
>
>
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>
>
>
> I appreciate all the advice.
On Thursday, May 2, 2013 7:28:16 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>=20
> I do not the exact reasoning other than how it was explained to me by my=
instructor some 30 tears ago. Glass is technically a liquid vs. a solid, i=
t heals itself. I have never verified the next example of glass being in a =
liquid type state but it is said that the stained glass in old church windo=
ws is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.
Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost all glass=
75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the bottom, with waves/wrin=
kles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably deflect light. =20
Additionally:
Glass exposed to UV light for ~~75yrs starts to turn blue, has a blue shade=
to it, only noticeable with clear glass, i.e., an aspect to help in dating=
/aging glass, bottles, jars, etc.
I assume this info is fact, learned as a self taught amature bottle collect=
or, back in high school and a bit beyond.=20
I've always understood cutting older glass panes may not always cut/snap cl=
ean, because of its unevenness. =20
No telling what other mistakes I made, besides 1) scoring too hard, then 2)=
pausing before snapping, to inspect that the score mark was visible and, i=
f not, score it again. <---> What was that thread, "Pretend you know an idi=
ot"? Ibid.
Sonny
[email protected] wrote:
> I have seen alot of pictures of bathroom remodels with two mirror
> set ups.
>
> I never thought of craigslist...
-----------------------------------------------------------
If you are in a metro area, check for "Habitat for Humanity"
outlets along with places that sell recycled building items.
Be surprised what you find.
Lew
On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>
>
>
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> I just had a thought to my last post. Even though I used cabinet rail and stile bits I wonder if i can still assemple using pocket holes so the unit can be assembled and disassembled.
>
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>
>
>
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>
>
>
> I appreciate all the advice.
On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 4:07:08 PM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:10:49 PM UTC-5, stry wrote:
>
> > Any advice on matchin gthe stain of the lower cabinet?
>
>
>
> The lower cabinets don't seem to be stained. They appear clear coated.
>
> My local shermin williams store will match stain. Does a store like this typically do a good job or should I just buy several close stains and try to mix and match myself?
>
> Apply a clear coat to some scrap and compare the two. If the cabinets are a touch darker, put some toner in your finish, to darken it a tad, and apply toned coats (to the test scrap, first) creeping up on a best matching tone/color.
>
>
>
> Sonny
"Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
>> I have seen alot of pictures of bathroom remodels with two mirror
>> set ups.
>>
>> I never thought of craigslist...
> -----------------------------------------------------------
> If you are in a metro area, check for "Habitat for Humanity"
> outlets along with places that sell recycled building items.
>
> Be surprised what you find.
They're called Habitat for Humanity "Restores".
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>
>
>
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> Yea. Not sure why I have burn marks. I will have to sand those out.
>
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>
>
>
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>
>
>
> I appreciate all the advice.
On Thu, 2 May 2013 06:38:39 -0700 (PDT), Sonny <[email protected]>
wrote:
>On Thursday, May 2, 2013 7:28:16 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
>>
> > I do not the exact reasoning other than how it was explained to me by my instructor some 30 tears ago. Glass is technically a liquid vs. a solid, it heals itself. I have never verified the next example of glass being in a liquid type state but it is said that the stained glass in old church windows is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.
>
>Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost all glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the bottom, with waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably deflect light.
That's an old wives' tale. Glass is a solid at normal room
temperatures and does not *run*. The "thickening" at the "bottom"
that had been noticed was an artifact of how the glass was made a
century, and more, ago.
>Additionally:
>Glass exposed to UV light for ~~75yrs starts to turn blue, has a blue shade to it, only noticeable with clear glass, i.e., an aspect to help in dating/aging glass, bottles, jars, etc.
>
>I assume this info is fact, learned as a self taught amature bottle collector, back in high school and a bit beyond.
>
>I've always understood cutting older glass panes may not always cut/snap clean, because of its unevenness.
>
>No telling what other mistakes I made, besides 1) scoring too hard, then 2) pausing before snapping, to inspect that the score mark was visible and, if not, score it again. <---> What was that thread, "Pretend you know an idiot"? Ibid.
>
>Sonny
On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:50:50 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
>
> > On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:42:03 AM UTC-5, mkaras wrote:
>
> >> [This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to
>
> >> the
>
> >>
>
> >> cited author.]
> I thought about that. However, two 3 foot mirrors are 50 bucks. one 6 foot mirror is 330 bucks.
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> In article <[email protected]>,
>
> >>
>
> >> [email protected] says...
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of
>
> >>> hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to
>
> >>> the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out
>
> >>> how to hook it up to my old table.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far:
>
> >>> http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my
>
> >>> wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to
>
> >>> stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached
>
> >>> picture. But I am open to anything.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's
>
> >>> bathroom counter.
>
> >>
>
> >>>
>
> >>
>
> >>> I appreciate all the advice.
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> Two mirrors above the bathroom counter seems to imply that there
>
> >> will be
>
> >>
>
> >> a blank spot or two frame rails right in the middle. Such an
>
> >> arrangement
>
> >>
>
> >> would become very annoying over time because one tends to gravitate
>
> >>
>
> >> toward the center area for use of the bathroom vaniity sink. I would
>
> >>
>
> >> think you may want to re-think this and make three mirror frames so
>
> >> that
>
> >>
>
> >> one of them could be centered directly in front of the most likely
>
> >> usage
>
> >>
>
> >> position.
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> --
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >>
>
> >> Michael Karas
>
> >>
>
> >> Carousel Design Solutions
>
> >>
>
> >> http://www.carousel-design.com
>
> >
>
> > Not sure I have seen three. The problem I have is my daughter and
>
> > wife fight over the mirror when getting ready in the morning.
>
>
>
> Make one big mirror?
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> dadiOH
>
> ____________________________
>
>
>
> Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
>
> Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
>
> Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 7:05:42 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> > > Should I use a chamfer or cove bit on my router table to the edges, =
leave alone, or just lightly sand over the edges? > > My question is, does =
it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whet=
her to paint or stain it.=20
Make the/some different profiles on some scrap and compare, for yourselves,=
which one you prefer.
Though I suppose you mean the outside edges, the inside edges on one of my =
(store bought) mirrors has a square cut 1/4" edge/reveal (against the glass=
) and it's harder to easily clean those edges, especially the bottom edge, =
against the glass, as compared to my other mirrors that have a gentle profi=
le, of some sort, right up to the glass, and those edges are easier to clea=
n.
If that's your first attempt at framing, you did a darn good job. The more=
you do, the better you'll get. Your question already implies you're think=
ing of improving on this job, soooo, where else might a mirror or framed pi=
ece be needed in your home?
Sonny
On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:42:03 AM UTC-5, mkaras wrote:
> [This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the
>
> cited author.]
>
>
>
> In article <[email protected]>,
>
> [email protected] says...
>
> >
>
> > Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>
> >
>
> > Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> >
>
> > My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>
> >
>
> > The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>
> >
>
> > I appreciate all the advice.
>
>
>
> Two mirrors above the bathroom counter seems to imply that there will be
>
> a blank spot or two frame rails right in the middle. Such an arrangement
>
> would become very annoying over time because one tends to gravitate
>
> toward the center area for use of the bathroom vaniity sink. I would
>
> think you may want to re-think this and make three mirror frames so that
>
> one of them could be centered directly in front of the most likely usage
>
> position.
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> Michael Karas
>
> Carousel Design Solutions
>
> http://www.carousel-design.com
Not sure I have seen three. The problem I have is my daughter and wife fight over the mirror when getting ready in the morning.
-MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>On 5/1/13 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>>
>> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
>> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
>> practice.
>>
>
>Kerosine? For what?
cutting oil. keeps glass chips from jamming the cutting wheel.
On 5/1/2013 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>>>
>>> I appreciate all the advice.
>>
>> Already did that. Wife is fine with two but I did tell her the cost
>> and that might be part of the reason she said it was ok.
>>
>> I dont live in a metro area. A search of my local craigslist had lots
>> of mirrors, but none the right size...
>>
>
> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
> practice.
>
I have cut a lot of stained glass in the past and have never heard of
using kerosine. What do you use that for?
[This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to the
cited author.]
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>
> I appreciate all the advice.
Two mirrors above the bathroom counter seems to imply that there will be
a blank spot or two frame rails right in the middle. Such an arrangement
would become very annoying over time because one tends to gravitate
toward the center area for use of the bathroom vaniity sink. I would
think you may want to re-think this and make three mirror frames so that
one of them could be centered directly in front of the most likely usage
position.
--
Michael Karas
Carousel Design Solutions
http://www.carousel-design.com
On 5/1/2013 1:11 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 5/1/2013 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>> I appreciate all the advice.
>>>
>>> Already did that. Wife is fine with two but I did tell her the cost
>>> and that might be part of the reason she said it was ok.
>>>
>>> I dont live in a metro area. A search of my local craigslist had lots
>>> of mirrors, but none the right size...
>>>
>>
>> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
>> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
>> practice.
>>
>
> I have cut a lot of stained glass in the past and have never heard of
> using kerosine. What do you use that for?
>
Oops! You just answered my question. ;~) Now I know. I was thinking
1/8" thick cheap mirror similar in thickness to stained glass.
On 5/1/2013 12:35 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 5/1/13 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>>>
>>> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
>>> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
>>> practice.
>>>
>>
>> Kerosine? For what?
>
> cutting oil. keeps glass chips from jamming the cutting wheel.
>
Actually the oil is simply to lubricate the cutting wheel axle so that
it does not wear out. I used to do a lot of stained glass and never had
issue with glass chips when cutting glass. I did have a glass cutter
with an oil reservoir that lubricated the axle ever so slightly with
each cut.
Still wondering why use Kerosine over regular 3 in 1 oil and or mineral oil.
On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:10:49 PM UTC-5, stry wrote:
> Any advice on matchin gthe stain of the lower cabinet?
The lower cabinets don't seem to be stained. They appear clear coated.
Apply a clear coat to some scrap and compare the two. If the cabinets are a touch darker, put some toner in your finish, to darken it a tad, and apply toned coats (to the test scrap, first) creeping up on a best matching tone/color.
Sonny
On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>
>
>
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
>
>
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>
>
>
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>
>
>
> I appreciate all the advice.
Already did that. Wife is fine with two but I did tell her the cost and that might be part of the reason she said it was ok.
I dont live in a metro area. A search of my local craigslist had lots of mirrors, but none the right size...
On Thursday, May 2, 2013 7:26:18 AM UTC-5, stry wrote:
> > My local shermin williams store will match stain. Does a store like th=
is typically do a good job or should I just buy several close stains and tr=
y to mix and match myself?=20
Before visiting SW, get a scrap piece of wood and wet it with mineral spiri=
ts. Does the darkened wet-look color/shade match the color/shade of your c=
abinets?
Sherwin Williams might match stains, but do they match tones? You may be c=
onfusing the terms. Toning is the mixing of a color agent (usually a darke=
ning agent, or to enhance a color/shade), into a clear coat finish, to give=
the finished piece/furniture a darkened/enhanced coating/appearance, i.e.,=
darker than its natural color.
If a stain is applied and it's not dark enough, then often a toned top coat=
is applied to bring the piece to the best matching color/shade, rather tha=
n applying more stain. Applying more stain is harder to control, to achiev=
e the right color/shade, than applying a/some toned coating/s.
They would need to see your cabinets or a sample (a door!). They would pro=
bably verify if the cabinets have been stained or toned or neither (simply =
clear coated). They look clear coated, not stained, at all. The present f=
inish might have a tone to it. If there is any different coloration, to th=
em, beyond the wood's natural color, then the present finish was likely ton=
ed, before it was applied, i.e., they would have a different color/shade be=
cause of toning, not staining.
Rather than recommend applying a stain, I would suspect Sherwin Williams wo=
uld recommend toning the finish you are to apply, to match the color/shade =
of the cabinets. They would, in turn, need to do some test pieces and/or t=
est applications, to determine the correct recipe/schedule, to match or clo=
sely match the shade of/on the cabinets.
If toning is to be done, you won't need very much toning agent, for the ble=
nd/mix. SW may not charge you for the amount of toning agent used, but the=
y may charge you for the testing. It may take some time for them to do th=
e testing and there may be a fee for this time. =20
I've never had any paint store blend a tone for me. I do my own toning, of=
clear coat applications. The only thing I've had a paint store do is matc=
h a paint color/shade, not a tone shade.
Sonny
On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and=
my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On to=
p of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my =
old table.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imagesh=
ack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>=20
> Ok, I dry fitten the frame and the diagonals dont measure exactly square =
although it looks square. My intention was to rabbet out the back so the mi=
rror could be replaced, however with it not being square, I am not sure if =
this isstill a good idea as at least with the full channel in there I can "=
adjust" the position of the pieces before gluing them up if that makes sens=
e.
Also, If I round over the edge can this be done on the individual pieces be=
fore gluing the frame togther or is it best to assemble the frame then rout=
e the pieces? (My only router is mounted to the table. I can take it out I =
guess if I need to but it took me awhile to mount it).
Sorry for the dumb questions.
>=20
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and=
I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to matc=
h the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anyth=
ing.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathr=
oom counter.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I appreciate all the advice.
On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>
>
>
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> Any advice on matchin gthe stain of the lower cabinet?
>
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>
>
>
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>
>
>
> I appreciate all the advice.
On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:24:27 PM UTC-5, chaniarts wrote:
> On 5/1/2013 chaniarts wrote: >=20
btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're pressi=
ng WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to work correctl=
y. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some hard art glasses =
don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the score to snap.
Scoring too hard! Probably exactly why I've never had very many clean cuts=
/snaps of the glass I've tried cutting, despite most of my glass cutting ha=
ving been on older, used glass. I had always blamed the old glass. Thanks=
.
Sonny
On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 4:32:57 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
> chaniarts wrote:
>
> > On 4/30/2013 12:02 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:50:50 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>
> >>> [email protected] wrote:
>
> >>>
>
> >>>> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:42:03 AM UTC-5, mkaras wrote:
>
> >>>
>
> >>>>> [This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to
>
> >>>
>
> >>>>> the
>
> >>>
>
> >>>>>
>
> >>>
>
> >>>>> cited author.]
>
> >>> I thought about that. However, two 3 foot mirrors are 50 bucks. one
>
> >>> 6 foot mirror is 330 bucks.
>
>
>
> 2 happy women are easily worth $230 more, if that's the "right"
>
> solution. You may recover it multifolk, if you sell the house.
>
> If you are renting, then that's another thing.
I have seen alot of pictures of bathroom remodels with two mirror set ups.
I never thought of craigslist...
On 5/1/2013 1:24 PM, chaniarts wrote:
> On 5/1/2013 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 5/1/2013 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>>
>>>>>
>>>>> I appreciate all the advice.
>>>>
>>>> Already did that. Wife is fine with two but I did tell her the cost
>>>> and that might be part of the reason she said it was ok.
>>>>
>>>> I dont live in a metro area. A search of my local craigslist had lots
>>>> of mirrors, but none the right size...
>>>>
>>>
>>> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
>>> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
>>> practice.
>>>
>>
>> I have cut a lot of stained glass in the past and have never heard of
>> using kerosine. What do you use that for?
>>
>
> it's easier to cleanup off the glass than thicker oils, and reservoir
> cutters have a cloth wick that can get gummed up by heavier oils if they
> sit for a while. once that happens, the wick can't be cleaned and you
> can't get it to start working.
>
> also, i can get a multi-lifetime supply in a gallon of kerosine than
> small containers of oil.
>
Gotcha, I would have thought the kerosine would gel or gum up after a
while. apparently not.
> for lubrication of the cutter wheels, put a cotton ball in an old film
> canister and add a dozen drops of 3-1 oil, then cap. when you go to cut,
> just run the wheel in the cotton ball to get a very little bit on it,
> then use. other than that, i don't cut art glass with any oil, just
> float with kerosine.
>
> btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're
> pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to work
> correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some hard
> art glasses don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the score to
> snap.
No, I did not have the problem.
On 5/1/2013 3:56 PM, Sonny wrote:
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:24:27 PM UTC-5, chaniarts wrote:
>> On 5/1/2013 chaniarts wrote: >
> btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to work correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some hard art glasses don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the score to snap.
>
> Scoring too hard! Probably exactly why I've never had very many clean cuts/snaps of the glass I've tried cutting, despite most of my glass cutting having been on older, used glass. I had always blamed the old glass. Thanks.
>
> Sonny
>
Keep in mind your breaks will be better and easier if you snap the glass
immediately after scoring.
[email protected] wrote:
> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours
> and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the
> doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how
> to hook it up to my old table.
>
> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far:
> http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>
> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife
> and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain
> it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I
> am open to anything.
>
> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's
> bathroom counter.
>
> I appreciate all the advice.
I see nothing wrong with it other than the burn marks.
Whether you paint or stain depends upon what you want. Personally, I
wouldn't paint, I'd stain but diferently than the vanityas you are unlikely
to be able to match it.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 4/29/2013 8:55 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> Yea. Not sure why I have burn marks. I will have to sand those out.
>>
A guy with my limited experience doesn't get to /answer/ a question here
very often, but I do know something about the production of woodworking
flaws. :) I think the burn marks are in places where the work slowed
down as it went past the router bit. Try to keep a smooth motion;
anyplace you stop will burn.
>>My question is, does it look too plain?
Not to me, but I like clean lines. You'll probably want to ease the
outer edges a bit though.
Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or
stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the
attached picture. But I am open to anything.
Again, it's a personal thing, but I always prefer the look of wood to
the look of paint.
On 4/29/2013 8:55 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>>
>> Yea. Not sure why I have burn marks. I will have to sand those out.
>>
>> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>>
>>
>>
>> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>>
>>
>>
>> I appreciate all the advice.
>
From one novice to another: If you have a scrap of wood leftover, you
could try carving a bead maybe 1/2"-3/4" in from the outside, and
compare it side-by-side compared to what you have, and see whether it
makes an appreciable difference to you. Of course, you could fill in the
bead with stain. There is no end... : ) Of course, a key aspect is
that it complements its surrounding decor. Vertical lines are
"peaceful", curved ones "intriguing", diagonal ones full of "action".
I'm sure there are plenty of exceptions. Maybe you could carve racecars
and track-flags around the edge of the frame? If you want to let a
project get out of hand, come see me! :)
Cheers,
Bill
[email protected] wrote:
> On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of
>> hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to
>> the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out
>> how to hook it up to my old table.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far:
>> http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>>
>> Yea. Not sure why I have burn marks. I will have to sand those out.
You got burn marks because you paused at those spots. Router bits get very
hot; NP if you feed continuously at the proper rate but if you pause - or,
worse yet, stop - the bit will burn the wood.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
[email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:42:03 AM UTC-5, mkaras wrote:
>> [This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to
>> the
>>
>> cited author.]
>>
>>
>>
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>
>> [email protected] says...
>>
>>>
>>
>>> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of
>>> hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to
>>> the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out
>>> how to hook it up to my old table.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far:
>>> http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>>
>>>
>>
>>> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my
>>> wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to
>>> stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached
>>> picture. But I am open to anything.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's
>>> bathroom counter.
>>
>>>
>>
>>> I appreciate all the advice.
>>
>>
>>
>> Two mirrors above the bathroom counter seems to imply that there
>> will be
>>
>> a blank spot or two frame rails right in the middle. Such an
>> arrangement
>>
>> would become very annoying over time because one tends to gravitate
>>
>> toward the center area for use of the bathroom vaniity sink. I would
>>
>> think you may want to re-think this and make three mirror frames so
>> that
>>
>> one of them could be centered directly in front of the most likely
>> usage
>>
>> position.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael Karas
>>
>> Carousel Design Solutions
>>
>> http://www.carousel-design.com
>
> Not sure I have seen three. The problem I have is my daughter and
> wife fight over the mirror when getting ready in the morning.
Make one big mirror?
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 4/30/2013 12:02 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:50:50 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>> [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:42:03 AM UTC-5, mkaras wrote:
>>
>>>> [This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to
>>
>>>> the
>>
>>>>
>>
>>>> cited author.]
>> I thought about that. However, two 3 foot mirrors are 50 bucks. one 6 foot mirror is 330 bucks.
>>>>
>>
>>> Not sure I have seen three. The problem I have is my daughter and
>>
>>> wife fight over the mirror when getting ready in the morning.
>>
>>
>>
>> Make one big mirror?
>>
i see large mirrors on craigslist for free all the time. they're removed
from bathroom remodels.
chaniarts wrote:
> On 4/30/2013 12:02 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:50:50 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:42:03 AM UTC-5, mkaras wrote:
>>>
>>>>> [This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to
>>>
>>>>> the
>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>>> cited author.]
>>> I thought about that. However, two 3 foot mirrors are 50 bucks. one
>>> 6 foot mirror is 330 bucks.
2 happy women are easily worth $230 more, if that's the "right"
solution. You may recover it multifolk, if you sell the house.
If you are renting, then that's another thing.
On 4/30/2013 6:54 PM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 4:32:57 PM UTC-5, Bill wrote:
>> chaniarts wrote:
>>
>>> On 4/30/2013 12:02 PM, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 12:50:50 PM UTC-5, dadiOH wrote:
>>
>>>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>> On Tuesday, April 30, 2013 6:42:03 AM UTC-5, mkaras wrote:
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>>> [This followup was posted to rec.woodworking and a copy was sent to
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>>> the
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>>>
>>
>>>>>
>>
>>>>>>> cited author.]
>>
>>>>> I thought about that. However, two 3 foot mirrors are 50 bucks. one
>>
>>>>> 6 foot mirror is 330 bucks.
>>
>>
>>
>> 2 happy women are easily worth $230 more, if that's the "right"
>>
>> solution. You may recover it multifolk, if you sell the house.
>>
>> If you are renting, then that's another thing.
>
> I have seen alot of pictures of bathroom remodels with two mirror set ups.
>
> I never thought of craigslist...
>
Perhaps ask the users how they feel about one mirror or two! :)
No need to reveal the cost. Then, you'll learn the right decision.
On 5/1/2013 5:04 AM, [email protected] wrote:
> On Monday, April 29, 2013 7:14:36 AM UTC-5, [email protected] wrote:
>> Still working on mirror frame. I am slow due to working alot of hours and my daughter was sick this weekend and had to take her to the doctor. On top of that i had to buy a new router and figure out how to hook it up to my old table.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyway here are some basic pictures of what I have so far: http://imageshack.us/g/607/20130428153410.jpg/
>>
>>
>>
>> My question is, does it look too plain? Also, the other thing my wife and I are debating is whether to paint or stain it. I want to stain it to match the cabinet which is also in the attached picture. But I am open to anything.
>>
>>
>>
>> The final product will be two mirrors the same size above my wife's bathroom counter.
>>
>>
>>
>> I appreciate all the advice.
>
> Already did that. Wife is fine with two but I did tell her the cost and that might be part of the reason she said it was ok.
>
> I dont live in a metro area. A search of my local craigslist had lots of mirrors, but none the right size...
>
ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
practice.
[email protected] wrote:
> I dont live in a metro area. A search of my local craigslist had lots
> of mirrors, but none the right size...
Go to a glass shop. Tell them the size. They will cut it. They will
smooth the edges.
Last I bought were about 30" x 80". They cost $75 each including
transporting to our house and installing on the wall. That was about 10-12
years ago.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 5/1/13 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>
> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
> practice.
>
Kerosine? For what?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 5/1/2013 10:35 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 5/1/13 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>>>
>>> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
>>> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
>>> practice.
>>>
>>
>> Kerosine? For what?
>
> cutting oil. keeps glass chips from jamming the cutting wheel.
>
i have found that it also prevents microfractures from healing back up,
causing cleaner snapping on float glass. i don't use oil on other harder
art glasses, but do on float, especially thicker (1/4"-1") sheets than
window glass (which can be done without kerosine).
i just use a paintbrush to apply a kerosine line where the the score is
to go, and cut on that line. the liquid seeps into the score, and seems
to work better.
regards,
charlie
http://glassartists.org/ChaniArts
On 5/1/2013 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 5/1/2013 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>
>>>>
>>>> I appreciate all the advice.
>>>
>>> Already did that. Wife is fine with two but I did tell her the cost
>>> and that might be part of the reason she said it was ok.
>>>
>>> I dont live in a metro area. A search of my local craigslist had lots
>>> of mirrors, but none the right size...
>>>
>>
>> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
>> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
>> practice.
>>
>
> I have cut a lot of stained glass in the past and have never heard of
> using kerosine. What do you use that for?
>
it's easier to cleanup off the glass than thicker oils, and reservoir
cutters have a cloth wick that can get gummed up by heavier oils if they
sit for a while. once that happens, the wick can't be cleaned and you
can't get it to start working.
also, i can get a multi-lifetime supply in a gallon of kerosine than
small containers of oil.
for lubrication of the cutter wheels, put a cotton ball in an old film
canister and add a dozen drops of 3-1 oil, then cap. when you go to cut,
just run the wheel in the cotton ball to get a very little bit on it,
then use. other than that, i don't cut art glass with any oil, just
float with kerosine.
btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're
pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to work
correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some hard
art glasses don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the score to snap.
On 5/1/13 12:35 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> writes:
>> On 5/1/13 11:15 AM, chaniarts wrote:
>>>
>>> ummm, mirror is easily scored and snapped. it takes a $2 glass cutter
>>> and a few drops of kerosine to do so. if it's free, you can get a lot of
>>> practice.
>>>
>>
>> Kerosine? For what?
>
> cutting oil. keeps glass chips from jamming the cutting wheel.
>
Oh, so oil. I was just wondering why Kerosine.
I'm guessing of everyone with a shop, 10 would have some oil around and
1, some kerosine.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 5/1/13 10:59 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 5/1/2013 3:56 PM, Sonny wrote:
>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:24:27 PM UTC-5, chaniarts wrote:
>>> On 5/1/2013 chaniarts wrote: >
>> btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're
>> pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to
>> work correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some
>> hard art glasses don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the
>> score to snap.
>>
>> Scoring too hard! Probably exactly why I've never had very many clean
>> cuts/snaps of the glass I've tried cutting, despite most of my glass
>> cutting having been on older, used glass. I had always blamed the old
>> glass. Thanks.
>>
>> Sonny
>>
>
>
> Keep in mind your breaks will be better and easier if you snap the glass
> immediately after scoring.
How's that?
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 5/1/13 10:59 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 5/1/2013 3:56 PM, Sonny wrote:
>>>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:24:27 PM UTC-5, chaniarts wrote:
>>>>> On 5/1/2013 chaniarts wrote: >
>>>> btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool,
>>>> you're pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of
>>>> pressure to work correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass
>>>> with the tool. some hard art glasses don't even make a sound and
>>>> it's hard to find the score to snap.
>>>>
>>>> Scoring too hard! Probably exactly why I've never had very many
>>>> clean cuts/snaps of the glass I've tried cutting, despite most of
>>>> my glass cutting having been on older, used glass. I had always
>>>> blamed the old glass. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Sonny
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Keep in mind your breaks will be better and easier if you snap the
>>> glass immediately after scoring.
>>
>>
>> How's that?
>>
>
>
> I do not the exact reasoning other than how it was explained to me by
> my instructor some 30 tears ago. Glass is technically a liquid vs.
> a solid, it heals itself. I have never verified the next example of
> glass being in a liquid type state but it is said that the stained
> glass in old church windows is thicker at the bottom and thinner at
> the top.
And ultimately it will crystallize. Takes some millions of years, though.
That's why there is no natural glass (obsidian) beyond a certain age.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
On 5/2/13 7:28 AM, Leon wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 5/1/13 10:59 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 5/1/2013 3:56 PM, Sonny wrote:
>>>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:24:27 PM UTC-5, chaniarts wrote:
>>>>> On 5/1/2013 chaniarts wrote: >
>>>> btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're
>>>> pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to
>>>> work correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some
>>>> hard art glasses don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the
>>>> score to snap.
>>>>
>>>> Scoring too hard! Probably exactly why I've never had very many clean
>>>> cuts/snaps of the glass I've tried cutting, despite most of my glass
>>>> cutting having been on older, used glass. I had always blamed the old
>>>> glass. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Sonny
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Keep in mind your breaks will be better and easier if you snap the glass
>>> immediately after scoring.
>>
>>
>> How's that?
>>
>
>
> I do not the exact reasoning other than how it was explained to me by my
> instructor some 30 tears ago. Glass is technically a liquid vs. a solid,
> it heals itself. I have never verified the next example of glass being in
> a liquid type state but it is said that the stained glass in old church
> windows is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.
>
After I wrote that I googled a bit. I'm pretty sure that whole "glass is
liquid" thing is an old wives' tale. But there are still plenty of glass
sites recycling that information. Sounds a lot like woodworks, huh? :-)
There's a camp that touts glass as be a "super-cooled" liquid that can
still move like a liquid, over time. That whole thing came about because
of old windows being "thicker on the bottom." People though that gravity
affected the "super cooled liquid" causing the glass to fall to the
bottom over time. That's all horse crap.
The reason really old windows were thicker in places (not always at "the
bottom") was because the way they made the glass and how it was formed
when being fired. They just didn't have the modern technology to flatten
it out, uniformly, like they can today.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 5/2/13 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:
> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost all
> glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the bottom, with
> waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably deflect light.
>
Old wives' tale. Explain how some old windows are thicker at the top, or
one side, or both sides or top and bottom. It's not gravity. It's
because of the way the glass was manufactured back them. They didn't
have the technology to make a uniform thickness.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Leon wrote:
> -MIKE- <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 5/1/13 10:59 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 5/1/2013 3:56 PM, Sonny wrote:
>>>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2013 1:24:27 PM UTC-5, chaniarts wrote:
>>>>> On 5/1/2013 chaniarts wrote: >
>>>> btw: if you're getting chips when using a glass scoring tool, you're
>>>> pressing WAY too hard. it usually only needs 5-8 lbs of pressure to
>>>> work correctly. you're scoring, not cutting, glass with the tool. some
>>>> hard art glasses don't even make a sound and it's hard to find the
>>>> score to snap.
>>>>
>>>> Scoring too hard! Probably exactly why I've never had very many clean
>>>> cuts/snaps of the glass I've tried cutting, despite most of my glass
>>>> cutting having been on older, used glass. I had always blamed the old
>>>> glass. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Sonny
>>>>
>>>
>>> Keep in mind your breaks will be better and easier if you snap the glass
>>> immediately after scoring.
>>
>> How's that?
>>
>
> I do not the exact reasoning other than how it was explained to me by my
> instructor some 30 tears ago. Glass is technically a liquid vs. a solid,
> it heals itself. I have never verified the next example of glass being in
> a liquid type state
> but it is said that the stained glass in old church
> windows is thicker at the bottom and thinner at the top.
If true, that is probably due to matters of weight. So that it is able
to support it's own mass without cracking.
Bill
On 5/2/2013 9:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 5/2/13 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:
>> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost all
>> glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the bottom, with
>> waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably deflect light.
>>
>
> Old wives' tale. Explain how some old windows are thicker at the top, or
> one side, or both sides or top and bottom. It's not gravity. It's
> because of the way the glass was manufactured back them. They didn't
> have the technology to make a uniform thickness.
>
>
glass is an amorphous solid.
yes, it is thicker because they used to make it in cylinders, cool it,
score it down the side, break it, then reheat it to flatten it. it was
thicker at the bottom of the cylinder, and most glaziers put that at the
bottom for weight.
if it flowed in 75 years, then glass from the egyptians that are 4000
years old would be a puddle by now.
it's also an old wives tale that one has to score and break immediately.
there is some indications that the bottom of the scored fracture can
heal somewhat, but not to any great deal.
and finally, we don't flatten glass now. float glass is called that
because it's poured out on a bed of molten tin in a nitrogen/hydrogen
atmosphere. art glass is still made the old way, poured on a steel table
and flattened with rollers or by hand.
On 5/2/13 5:18 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 5/2/2013 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 5/2/13 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:
>>> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost
>>> all glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the
>>> bottom, with waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably
>>> deflect light.
>>>
>>
>> Old wives' tale. Explain how some old windows are thicker at the
>> top, or one side, or both sides or top and bottom. It's not
>> gravity. It's because of the way the glass was manufactured back
>> them. They didn't have the technology to make a uniform thickness.
>>
>>
>
> first off I am not talking about plain clear glass, I was only
> referencing "stained glass"
>
> If you have looked that up to determine an old wives tale I can't
> doubt you. But the church stained glass that I was talking about,
> while is not perfect uniform thickness, the glass in stained glass
> windows is not cut in a uniform way like you would cut wood. Stained
> glass is cut at any particular angle. Two identical pieces of glass
> may have been cut at 90 degrees from each other. Because stained
> glass is not uniform in texture and or internal coloring you hunt out
> the spot in the glass and cut it out.
>
> With that in mind the stained glass would not all be wider on the
> bottom.
All I'm saying is that I have never been able to find any credible
evidence (before or after google) to support that glass is effected by
gravity nor that it can "heal itself" from being scored.
I'm calling BS on those things.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
> On 5/2/13 5:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 5/2/2013 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 5/2/13 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:
>>>> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost
>>>> all glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the
>>>> bottom, with waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably
>>>> deflect light.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Old wives' tale. Explain how some old windows are thicker at the
>>> top, or one side, or both sides or top and bottom. It's not
>>> gravity. It's because of the way the glass was manufactured back
>>> them. They didn't have the technology to make a uniform thickness.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> first off I am not talking about plain clear glass, I was only
>> referencing "stained glass"
>>
>> If you have looked that up to determine an old wives tale I can't
>> doubt you. But the church stained glass that I was talking about,
>> while is not perfect uniform thickness, the glass in stained glass
>> windows is not cut in a uniform way like you would cut wood. Stained
>> glass is cut at any particular angle. Two identical pieces of glass
>> may have been cut at 90 degrees from each other. Because stained
>> glass is not uniform in texture and or internal coloring you hunt out
>> the spot in the glass and cut it out.
>>
>> With that in mind the stained glass would not all be wider on the
>> bottom.
>
>
> All I'm saying is that I have never been able to find any credible
> evidence (before or after google) to support that glass is effected by
> gravity nor that it can "heal itself" from being scored.
>
> I'm calling BS on those things.
>
>
David Esterly, the author "Grinling Gibbons And The Art of Carving" that
says they put lighter wood carving above glass.
An extension of that idea would be to to use lighter glass at the top.
But then it would be weaker there, so maybe not.
The notion that glass is not affected by gravity must be careless choice
of words.
On 5/2/13 8:45 PM, Bill wrote:
> -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 5/2/13 5:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>>> On 5/2/2013 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>> On 5/2/13 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:
>>>>> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost
>>>>> all glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the
>>>>> bottom, with waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably
>>>>> deflect light.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Old wives' tale. Explain how some old windows are thicker at the
>>>> top, or one side, or both sides or top and bottom. It's not
>>>> gravity. It's because of the way the glass was manufactured back
>>>> them. They didn't have the technology to make a uniform thickness.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> first off I am not talking about plain clear glass, I was only
>>> referencing "stained glass"
>>>
>>> If you have looked that up to determine an old wives tale I can't
>>> doubt you. But the church stained glass that I was talking about,
>>> while is not perfect uniform thickness, the glass in stained glass
>>> windows is not cut in a uniform way like you would cut wood. Stained
>>> glass is cut at any particular angle. Two identical pieces of glass
>>> may have been cut at 90 degrees from each other. Because stained
>>> glass is not uniform in texture and or internal coloring you hunt out
>>> the spot in the glass and cut it out.
>>>
>>> With that in mind the stained glass would not all be wider on the
>>> bottom.
>>
>>
>> All I'm saying is that I have never been able to find any credible
>> evidence (before or after google) to support that glass is effected by
>> gravity nor that it can "heal itself" from being scored.
>>
>> I'm calling BS on those things.
>>
>>
> David Esterly, the author "Grinling Gibbons And The Art of Carving" that
> says they put lighter wood carving above glass.
> An extension of that idea would be to to use lighter glass at the top.
> But then it would be weaker there, so maybe not.
>
> The notion that glass is not affected by gravity must be careless choice
> of words.
>
Not in the context of this discussion.
In this discussion, it was brought up, the myth that glass is never
"fully hardened" and can flow downward in a window pane over time,
making the bottom of the window thicker than the top.
*That* is the effect of gravity that is relevant to this discussion.
This fallacy has been discredited as an "old wives' tale," but is
nonetheless still purported all over the internet and even of
professional glass worker sites.
I think it's clear to anyone that if you drop a piece of glass, gravity
will sure have a dire effect on it. :-)
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
-MIKE- wrote:
> On 5/2/13 8:45 PM, Bill wrote:
>> -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 5/2/13 5:18 PM, Leon wrote:
>>>> On 5/2/2013 11:26 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>>>> On 5/2/13 8:38 AM, Sonny wrote:
>>>>>> Yep, at room temperature, glass is a super cooled liquid. Almost
>>>>>> all glass 75yrs old and older will be visibly thicker on the
>>>>>> bottom, with waves/wrinkles (flows unevenly) that will noticeably
>>>>>> deflect light.
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Old wives' tale. Explain how some old windows are thicker at the
>>>>> top, or one side, or both sides or top and bottom. It's not
>>>>> gravity. It's because of the way the glass was manufactured back
>>>>> them. They didn't have the technology to make a uniform thickness.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> first off I am not talking about plain clear glass, I was only
>>>> referencing "stained glass"
>>>>
>>>> If you have looked that up to determine an old wives tale I can't
>>>> doubt you. But the church stained glass that I was talking about,
>>>> while is not perfect uniform thickness, the glass in stained glass
>>>> windows is not cut in a uniform way like you would cut wood. Stained
>>>> glass is cut at any particular angle. Two identical pieces of glass
>>>> may have been cut at 90 degrees from each other. Because stained
>>>> glass is not uniform in texture and or internal coloring you hunt out
>>>> the spot in the glass and cut it out.
>>>>
>>>> With that in mind the stained glass would not all be wider on the
>>>> bottom.
>>>
>>>
>>> All I'm saying is that I have never been able to find any credible
>>> evidence (before or after google) to support that glass is effected by
>>> gravity nor that it can "heal itself" from being scored.
>>>
>>> I'm calling BS on those things.
>>>
>>>
>> David Esterly, the author "Grinling Gibbons And The Art of Carving" that
>> says they put lighter wood carving above glass.
>> An extension of that idea would be to to use lighter glass at the top.
>> But then it would be weaker there, so maybe not.
>>
>> The notion that glass is not affected by gravity must be careless choice
>> of words.
>>
>
> Not in the context of this discussion.
> In this discussion, it was brought up, the myth that glass is never
> "fully hardened" and can flow downward in a window pane over time,
> making the bottom of the window thicker than the top.
> *That* is the effect of gravity that is relevant to this discussion.
Okay, I did not buy into that part of the discussion.
>
> This fallacy has been discredited as an "old wives' tale," but is
> nonetheless still purported all over the internet and even of
> professional glass worker sites.
>
> I think it's clear to anyone that if you drop a piece of glass, gravity
> will sure have a dire effect on it. :-)
>
>
[email protected] wrote:
> Also, If I round over the edge can this be done on the individual
> pieces before gluing the frame togther or is it best to assemble the
> frame then route the pieces? (My only router is mounted to the table.
> I can take it out I guess if I need to but it took me awhile to mount
> it).
Yes, you can put a profile on the outside edges before you assemble them.
However, IMO, it is better to do them after assembly so that any length or
thickness mismatches in the pieces can be corrected first.
--
dadiOH
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