Some of you may remember that I'm refurbishing an old Sears flex drive
tablesaw. I got the rust off, adjusted the trunnion so the blade was
parallel with the miter gauge slot, and adjusted the miter gauge stops for
accuracy.
I found the old stamped steel fence was just not worth messing with. When
adjusted for minimum error at 4" or so from the blade, the error would
exceed .030" at around 15". I ordered a Craftsman Align-a-rip 24/24
extruded aluminum fence as a replacement.
Due to the fact that the rod that carries the blade guard and splitter goes
right thru where the rear fence rail would be, I was not able to set it up
for left-of-blade rip. I had the rails shortened for right side rip only
and installed them today. I got the fence alignment error down to about
.005" overall.
Using the fence, I cut and compared two plywood panels. They started out as
nearly square 18" pieces so I numbered all four edges in pencil on both
pieces and ran edges 1 and 2 on both. I reset the fence about 1/4" shorter
and ran edges 3 and 4. When finished, I compared the two pieces and they
were exactly even all the way around. I even flipped one over (face down)
and compared again. They aligned perfectly.
The only thing I have left to do now is reset the front rail slightly. It
cuts about 1/16" long. I'll do that after I install a new blade.
When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron (open
web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge with
hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00. And
that includes a spare flex drive shaft.
In article <[email protected]>, Chuck
Hoffman <[email protected]> wrote:
> When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron (open
> web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge with
> hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00. And
> that includes a spare flex drive shaft.
Sweet. Well done.
Good suggestion. I'll investigate that.
I'm also going to face the new fence with something...perhaps particle board
with a high pressure laminate surface. I deliberately had the fence rail
cut so it would accommodate an aux fence.
"Ace" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:RYapd.456286$D%.388258@attbi_s51...
> I suggest you get some 1/4" Masonite and cut some pieces to fit the open
web
> slots so that the wings will be level on both sides. I did that to a
> Craftsman saw I previously had and it made a big difference, and nothing
got
> caught then in the webs. I prefer solid cast iron wings and would never
> again have the ones with webs.
>
>
> "Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> wrote in message
> news:241120041837444569%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca...
> > In article <[email protected]>, Chuck
> > Hoffman <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> > > When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron
> (open
> > > web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge
> with
> > > hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00.
> And
> > > that includes a spare flex drive shaft.
> >
> > Sweet. Well done.
>
>
"Chuck Hoffman" wrote in message
> When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron
(open
> web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge with
> hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00.
... and the _satisfaction_ that you resurrected it, know the tool inside and
out, and can keep it operating at peak with the knowledge you've gained.
Congratulations ... 'you suck', on the satisfaction alone.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/04
Remember that you may want to have the webs open for the times when you
want to use a clamp for a feather board or stop block. So make the
inserts removable.
Bruce
Chuck Hoffman wrote:
> Good suggestion. I'll investigate that.
>
> I'm also going to face the new fence with something...perhaps particle board
> with a high pressure laminate surface. I deliberately had the fence rail
> cut so it would accommodate an aux fence.
>
> "Ace" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:RYapd.456286$D%.388258@attbi_s51...
>
>>I suggest you get some 1/4" Masonite and cut some pieces to fit the open
>
> web
>
>>slots so that the wings will be level on both sides. I did that to a
>>Craftsman saw I previously had and it made a big difference, and nothing
>
> got
>
>>caught then in the webs. I prefer solid cast iron wings and would never
>>again have the ones with webs.
>>
>>
>>"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> wrote in message
>>news:241120041837444569%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca...
>>
>>>In article <[email protected]>, Chuck
>>>Hoffman <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron
>>
>>(open
>>
>>>>web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge
>>
>>with
>>
>>>>hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00.
>>
>>And
>>
>>>>that includes a spare flex drive shaft.
>>>
>>>Sweet. Well done.
>>
>>
>
>
I suggest you get some 1/4" Masonite and cut some pieces to fit the open web
slots so that the wings will be level on both sides. I did that to a
Craftsman saw I previously had and it made a big difference, and nothing got
caught then in the webs. I prefer solid cast iron wings and would never
again have the ones with webs.
"Dave Balderstone" <dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca> wrote in message
news:241120041837444569%dave@N_O_T_T_H_I_S.balderstone.ca...
> In article <[email protected]>, Chuck
> Hoffman <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > When completely finished, I will have a contractor saw with cast iron
(open
> > web) extensions, an accurate fence, a very well designed miter gauge
with
> > hold-down and a new carbide-tipped blade...all for less than $500.00.
And
> > that includes a spare flex drive shaft.
>
> Sweet. Well done.