I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
screws.
My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
nb
dadiOH wrote:
> notbob wrote:
>> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
>> an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and
>> she had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which
>> was nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally
>> used, so I used 8" deck screws.
>>
>> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
>> hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
>> fence post.
>> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining.
>> My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
>> phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an
>> 8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>
> 1. hole (screws always need holes)
>
> 2. wax on threads
>
> 3. brace with a properly sized screw driving bit.
>
> All the torque you want, depending on your arms :)
Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
"Leon" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>
> "Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at
>> the local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking
>> tools too.
>
>
> The problem with using dry wall screws with wood working is that they
> tend to break off more than a wood screw will. Dry wall screws are
> designed for soft wood and dry wall, they are very brittle with little
> actual strength. their biggest strength is that their heads are less
> likely to strip out than the plastic packaged screws found at the
> Borg.
>
> Keep in mind that shankless screws cause problems if you using them
> for wood working. Screws with threads through out the length of the
> screw tend to prevent two pieces of wood from being drawn together.
> Typically you have to put the screw in, remove it and then reinsert it
> to get the joint to close.
>
>
I haven't had much trouble with the drywall/wood screws I usually get
from the big box stores. Of course, my primary working materials are
pine (Jummywood) and plywood, and I almost always predrill.
I /do/ have all sorts of problems with a fine thread drywall screws. The
only reason I use them is because I haven't remembered to get 1 1/4"
coarse thread screws.
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"notbob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
> screws.
>
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
> in
> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
> head
> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>
> nb
A phillips head on a 8" screw is an exercise in futility. You either are
going to have to drill bigger pilot holes or go to lag screws. With lag
screws you have that big, beefy hex head to drive with a wrench of some
kind.
"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.
>
> --
I knew a guy who did that with lag screws. It was amazing. He had to apply
a fair amount of muscle, particularly on the longer ones. He then applied a
wrench to finish it and drive the lag screw flush.
notbob <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
> an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she
> had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was
> nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used,
> so I used 8" deck screws.
>
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
> hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
> fence post. If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches
> remaining. My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just
> that the phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't
> drive an 8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>
> nb
I've found that having a good Phillips bit helps tremendously. The bit
should seat completely in the screw head and not move. I've seen several
"#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
DeWalt bits.
As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
Charlie Groh <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
>>
>>I've found that having a good Phillips bit helps tremendously. The
>>bit should seat completely in the screw head and not move. I've seen
>>several "#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My
>>favorite are DeWalt bits.
>
> ...those aren't too bad, but they still cam out if they get worn at
> all...I like the "shankless" variety preferred by drywallers and, when
> I can find 'em, I'll stock-up. You won't find 'em at HD, I usually
> get mine at my local tool supplier speciality shops. That said, I use
> square drive more and more...
I figure they're cheap enough to replace when they start to get worn.
After all, why sell 25 packs if you don't expect people to replace them.
(Unlike garden hose washers, which are sold in 10 packs so you have to
buy 10 every time you need one.)
I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at the
local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking tools too.
:-))
>>As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.
>
> ...whomever is responsible for that tool sits on the pedestal with the
> wheel-guy!
>
> cg
And the power steering guy!
>>
>>Puckdropper
>
Puckdropper
--
"The potential difference between the top and bottom of a tree is the
reason why all trees have to be grounded..." -- Bored Borg on
rec.woodworking
To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at the
> local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking tools too.
The problem with using dry wall screws with wood working is that they tend
to break off more than a wood screw will. Dry wall screws are designed for
soft wood and dry wall, they are very brittle with little actual strength.
their biggest strength is that their heads are less likely to strip out than
the plastic packaged screws found at the Borg.
Keep in mind that shankless screws cause problems if you using them for wood
working. Screws with threads through out the length of the screw tend to
prevent two pieces of wood from being drawn together. Typically you have to
put the screw in, remove it and then reinsert it to get the joint to close.
On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 13:27:59 GMT, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2009-04-15, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Gotta' have enough torque to be able to drive them completely in first
>> go or you're done (as you learned). Most decking is done w/ new
>> pressure treated lumber which is so soft and wet it's possible.
>
>It's a 13-14V DeWalt. Didn't lack for torque. The gun didn't stop turning,
>it just started stripping the head, no matter how much I leaned on it. I
>think the gun has an impact setting, which I'll try next time.
>
>nb
...that's not quite the same thing as a dedicated impact driver will
provide, it's a setting for rotodrilling and will engage as soon as
you put pressure on the tool...
cg
On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 10:42:01 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>"notbob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
>> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
>> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
>> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
>> screws.
>>
>> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
>> in
>> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
>> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
>> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
>> head
>> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
>> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>>
>> nb
>A phillips head on a 8" screw is an exercise in futility. You either are
>going to have to drill bigger pilot holes or go to lag screws. With lag
>screws you have that big, beefy hex head to drive with a wrench of some
>kind.
Square head recessed or Star Drive (Torx) are far better than
Phillips. IMO, the OP should be using a Star Drive screw in this
situation, though it's still going to need a pilot hole. I only use
Phillips (pan head) for wall anchors and other light duty. Lag screws
are useful if the screw will be under a *lot* of shear stress and the
larger shank is needed.
"notbob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Being a mechanic/machinist, when I think of an impact driver, I think of
> those heavy steel, hammer driven, whack-that-sucker! drivers used to get
> stripped phillips head screws outta Japanese cycles/cars or huge bosch
> electric impact hammers for breaking up construction stuff. I think this
> gun might have an impact function.
OK I know what you are talking about here, manual hammer driven. Since you
are a mechanic you will understand, in the woodworking world the impact
driver is more like and works like an Impact Wrench except they are battery
operated and use 1/4" hex bits.
>
> I'm from the old 16 box school of framing and am a babe in the woods with
> this cordless carpentry tool stuff. Had no clue till I watched a pro
> putting
> up an addition next door and noticed he never once swung a hammer, that I
> could see. That was an eye-opener.
>
> I'll learn. ;)
>
> nb
notbob wrote:
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
> hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
> fence post.
> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining.
> My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
> phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an
> 8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
As has been mentioned, with a deck screw, you get one shot to get it
home.
Pilot hole required for all except possibly the softest woods. (Why
take a chance?)
Square drive or hex head screws preferred.
Have fun.
Lew
Charlie Groh wrote:
> ...ach! Stupid me, I mean "reduced" shank bits! Sorry for my lingo
> lameness...but I'm definitely referring to the "bit" and not by any
> means the screws. But, now that you mention it, yes, drywall screws
> *do* break off...they're on the brittle side. I'll still use 'em,
> though usually as a third step: glue-bradnail-screw with pilot. They
> may be subject to failure in a twist situation, but on the pull side
> they are pretty dang strong...
"Reduced shank"? Seems to me there's a Viagra joke in there somewhere...
--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I haven't had much trouble with the drywall/wood screws I usually get
> from the big box stores. Of course, my primary working materials are
> pine (Jummywood) and plywood, and I almost always predrill.
And soft wood is what they were designed to work with. You should continue
to have good results with soft woods.
>
> I /do/ have all sorts of problems with a fine thread drywall screws. The
> only reason I use them is because I haven't remembered to get 1 1/4"
> coarse thread screws.
I bit the bullet many years ago after breaking too many dry wall screws. I
discovered dry wall screws about 25- 30 years ago, a few years later I
discovered the square drive hardened screws and that was that. IIRC I
bought a small assortment just because of the square drive advantages, I
had no idea that the screws were actually less likely to break. Today I
probably keep 2-3 thousand square drive screws on hand in 30 or so sizes and
styles. Because of their unique design I use more pocket hole screws in
other than pocket hole applications more and more now that they come in a
wide range of lengths.
"notbob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
> screws.
>
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
> in
> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
> head
> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>
> nb
Predrill the hole or use a 12 volt Impact Driver. Impact Drivers tend to
have 3 to 4 times more torque than most drills, including corded ones and
they tend to not strip out the screw heads. I typically will use my impact
driver to remove a Philips screw with a stripped out head.
Another thing is most deck screws are square hole and are higher grade.
Those with Phillips - they are Phillips-II as I recall and have much
better grip and leverage. Phillips bits don't fit near the same.
Martin
jo4hn wrote:
> notbob wrote:
>> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
>> an ice
>> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had
>> plenty
>> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
>> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
>> screws.
>> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
>> hole in
>> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
>> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
>> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
>> phillips head
>> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a
>> good
>> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>> nb
> You should also lubricate the screws with wax, soap, anything to make
> them a bit slippery. It does help. Honest.
> mahalo,
> jo4hn
On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 13:45:00 GMT, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 2009-04-15, Puckdropper <puckdropper> wrote:
>
>
>> "#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
>> DeWalt bits.
>
>I did use the dewalt tip, provided with the gun. I still think it a bit too
>pointy. I have a few other phillips tips that are stubbed at the tip to
>ensure full flute engagement.
>
>> As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.
>
>Being a mechanic/machinist, when I think of an impact driver, I think of
>those heavy steel, hammer driven, whack-that-sucker! drivers used to get
>stripped phillips head screws outta Japanese cycles/cars or huge bosch
>electric impact hammers for breaking up construction stuff. I think this
>gun might have an impact function.
Try a Bosch "Impactor" and you'll never go back to using a drill as a
screw gun. ;-)
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=PS40-2A
>I'm from the old 16 box school of framing and am a babe in the woods with
>this cordless carpentry tool stuff. Had no clue till I watched a pro putting
>up an addition next door and noticed he never once swung a hammer, that I
>could see. That was an eye-opener.
A hammer is still pretty good at coaxing boards into place. ;-)
>I'll learn. ;)
It's fun. "More power!" ;-)
On 15 Apr 2009 19:57:04 GMT, Puckdropper
<puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote:
>notbob <[email protected]> wrote in
>news:[email protected]:
>
>> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
>> an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she
>> had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was
>> nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used,
>> so I used 8" deck screws.
>>
>> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
>> hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
>> fence post. If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches
>> remaining. My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just
>> that the phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't
>> drive an 8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>>
>> nb
>
>I've found that having a good Phillips bit helps tremendously. The bit
>should seat completely in the screw head and not move. I've seen several
>"#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
>DeWalt bits.
...those aren't too bad, but they still cam out if they get worn at
all...I like the "shankless" variety preferred by drywallers and, when
I can find 'em, I'll stock-up. You won't find 'em at HD, I usually
get mine at my local tool supplier speciality shops. That said, I use
square drive more and more...
>
>As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.
...whomever is responsible for that tool sits on the pedestal with the
wheel-guy!
cg
>
>Puckdropper
notbob wrote:
> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on
> an ice covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and
> she had plenty of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which
> was nice. Anyway, I couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally
> used, so I used 8" deck screws.
>
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a
> hole in the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the
> fence post.
> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining.
> My DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the
> phillips head screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an
> 8" screw with a good gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
1. hole (screws always need holes)
2. wax on threads
3. brace with a properly sized screw driving bit.
All the torque you want, depending on your arms :)
--
dadiOH
____________________________
dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
6" spikes, maybe gutter nails?
On Apr 15, 7:37=A0am, notbob <[email protected]> wrote:
> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an i=
ce
> covered downhill. =A0It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had ple=
nty
> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. =A0Anyway,=
I
> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
> screws. =A0
>
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? =A0I had to drill a ho=
le in
> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. =A0My
> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips h=
ead
> screw would start stripping out. =A0If I can't drive an 8" screw with a g=
ood
> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws? =A0
>
> nb
notbob wrote:
> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
> screws.
>
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
Bigger gun, softer material.
Gotta' have enough torque to be able to drive them completely in first
go or you're done (as you learned). Most decking is done w/ new
pressure treated lumber which is so soft and wet it's possible.
Anything much harder will almost certainly require pilot hole.
--
On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 10:28:23 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"notbob" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
>> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
>> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
>> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
>> screws.
>>
>> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole
>> in
>> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
>> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
>> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips
>> head
>> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
>> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>>
>> nb
>
>
>Predrill the hole or use a 12 volt Impact Driver. Impact Drivers tend to
>have 3 to 4 times more torque than most drills, including corded ones and
>they tend to not strip out the screw heads. I typically will use my impact
>driver to remove a Philips screw with a stripped out head.
Impact screwdrivers are amazing. I bought my Bosch because of a
recommendation here (with free 12V screwdriver) and have never been so
pleasantly surprised with a purchase.
On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:48:19 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
<leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>"dadiOH" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.
>>
>> --
>I knew a guy who did that with lag screws. It was amazing. He had to apply
>a fair amount of muscle, particularly on the longer ones. He then applied a
>wrench to finish it and drive the lag screw flush.
>
...might as well use a big 'ol fat nail! LOL...nothin' like a bit of
pounding to test your structure...
cg
>
On Wed, 15 Apr 2009 08:37:40 -0700, jo4hn <[email protected]>
wrote:
>notbob wrote:
>> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
>> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
>> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
>> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
>> screws.
>>
>> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
>> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
>> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
>> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
>> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
>> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>>
>> nb
>You should also lubricate the screws with wax, soap, anything to make
>them a bit slippery. It does help. Honest.
> mahalo,
> jo4hn
...gas and wax, baby! Hex-head would help a ton, square drive too...
cg
On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 07:49:07 -0500, "Leon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Puckdropper" <puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>>
>> I'll have to remember to ask about "shankless" bits next time I'm at the
>> local industrial supply store. (They carry some woodworking tools too.
>
>
>The problem with using dry wall screws with wood working is that they tend
>to break off more than a wood screw will. Dry wall screws are designed for
>soft wood and dry wall, they are very brittle with little actual strength.
>their biggest strength is that their heads are less likely to strip out than
>the plastic packaged screws found at the Borg.
>
>Keep in mind that shankless screws cause problems if you using them for wood
>working. Screws with threads through out the length of the screw tend to
>prevent two pieces of wood from being drawn together. Typically you have to
>put the screw in, remove it and then reinsert it to get the joint to close.
...ach! Stupid me, I mean "reduced" shank bits! Sorry for my lingo
lameness...but I'm definitely referring to the "bit" and not by any
means the screws. But, now that you mention it, yes, drywall screws
*do* break off...they're on the brittle side. I'll still use 'em,
though usually as a third step: glue-bradnail-screw with pilot. They
may be subject to failure in a twist situation, but on the pull side
they are pretty dang strong...
cg
>
notbob wrote:
> I recently had to repair a neighbor's fence after running into it on an ice
> covered downhill. It's a rustic 2 rail lodgepole fence and she had plenty
> of material, so I didn't have to buy material, which was nice. Anyway, I
> couldn't get 6" spikes, which were originally used, so I used 8" deck
> screws.
>
> My question is, how does one use an 8" deck screw? I had to drill a hole in
> the rail so the 8" deck screw would run all the way into the fence post.
> If I didn't, the screw would stall with about 2-3 inches remaining. My
> DeWalt screw gun lacked no power or torque, it's just that the phillips head
> screw would start stripping out. If I can't drive an 8" screw with a good
> gun, how do I use 8" deck screws?
>
> nb
You should also lubricate the screws with wax, soap, anything to make
them a bit slippery. It does help. Honest.
mahalo,
jo4hn
On 2009-04-15, dpb <[email protected]> wrote:
> Gotta' have enough torque to be able to drive them completely in first
> go or you're done (as you learned). Most decking is done w/ new
> pressure treated lumber which is so soft and wet it's possible.
It's a 13-14V DeWalt. Didn't lack for torque. The gun didn't stop turning,
it just started stripping the head, no matter how much I leaned on it. I
think the gun has an impact setting, which I'll try next time.
nb
On 2009-04-15, dadiOH <[email protected]> wrote:
> Or just hammer it in like a giant serrated nail.
Heh heh... On one stalled screw, I did exactly that! Being from the bigger
hammer school of mechanics, I'm never without my trusty 4lb sledge.
nb
On 2009-04-15, Puckdropper <puckdropper> wrote:
> "#2" phillips bits that were really more like a #1 1/2. My favorite are
> DeWalt bits.
I did use the dewalt tip, provided with the gun. I still think it a bit too
pointy. I have a few other phillips tips that are stubbed at the tip to
ensure full flute engagement.
> As mentioned above, an impact driver will help tremendously too.
Being a mechanic/machinist, when I think of an impact driver, I think of
those heavy steel, hammer driven, whack-that-sucker! drivers used to get
stripped phillips head screws outta Japanese cycles/cars or huge bosch
electric impact hammers for breaking up construction stuff. I think this
gun might have an impact function.
I'm from the old 16 box school of framing and am a babe in the woods with
this cordless carpentry tool stuff. Had no clue till I watched a pro putting
up an addition next door and noticed he never once swung a hammer, that I
could see. That was an eye-opener.
I'll learn. ;)
nb
On 2009-04-16, Puckdropper <puckdropper> wrote:
> I figure they're cheap enough to replace when they start to get worn.
A little info from my mechanic days. A GOOD hand/hammer impact driver has
indestructable bits, some better than others. I discovered Japanese bits
too soft and would twist after a few blows, but the Korean brands were
bullet proof. They also had blunted tips for full flute engagement. I'm
gonna find my old Korean driver and give that tip a try. I never ran across
a USA made driver, that style fastener (oval head phillips) not real popular
for engine assy in US. Maybe the one's Snap-On carries are US made. I've
not kept up with who makes what tools anymore, so many US tool companies
having gone under. :(
nb