On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 19:48:25 -0700 (PDT), GarageWoodworks
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I wrote a blog post on miter gauge angle error. I'd appreciate any
>feedback or your take on it.
>
>http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
My take is that you can check with a good square and maybe not be as
close as you can get.
If you have a properly milled board, or a stick of MDF, or whatever,
flat and square, try this: Crosscut it in half, then flip the offcut
over. Butt up the 2 pieces at the cut, with the board edge against a
straight edge (such as sitting on the table saw itself).
If there is an anglular error, this will double it and make it that
much easier to see.
On Aug 20, 10:48=A0pm, GarageWoodworks <[email protected]>
wrote:
> I wrote a blog post on miter gauge angle error. =A0I'd appreciate any
> feedback or your take on it.
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
I use a 12" 45-90-45 plastic draftsman's triangle. Gets my
miter gauge as close to square as I'll ever need it, in less
than 1 minute.
Add a 30-60-90 triangle, and you can quickly set up to
any angle multiple of 15 degrees.
"Steve Turner" <[email protected]> wrote
> Even easier, no straight edge required: Rip a piece of stable 1/2"
> (preferably thicker) scrap about 3" in width (or wider), 24" in length (or
> longer), then cross-cut it in half with whatever jig or sled you're trying
> to calibrate. Flip the off-cut over, pivot the right and left ends towards
> each other so they come together away from you, and with the cross-cut
> ends towards you. Stand the two pieces up on the surface of the table saw
> top (bringing the far ends up and towards you), then with the freshly
> cross-cut ends dead-flat on the table, slide them together so the two long
> (ripped) edges touch. If there is a gap at the top or bottom and they
> don't mate together perfectly, then you have an angle error in your
> cross-cut jig.
Right, except if there is no straight edge to register on the miter gauge,
how do you get it to represent what the angle is, and how do you get it to
compare to each other if it doesn't have a straight edge to compare?
Either that, or I lost you in all of the ripping and flipping and stuff.
I'll continue to get two straight and parallel sides when I adjust my saw or
sled, thanks. <g>
--
Jim in NC
"Jim Weisgram" wrote:
> My take is that you can check with a good square and maybe not be as
> close as you can get.
>
> If you have a properly milled board, or a stick of MDF, or whatever,
> flat and square, try this: Crosscut it in half, then flip the
> offcut
> over. Butt up the 2 pieces at the cut, with the board edge against a
> straight edge (such as sitting on the table saw itself).
>
> If there is an anglular error, this will double it and make it that
> much easier to see.
-----------------------------------
Yep.
Neat, clean, simple, low cost AND accurate.
Lew
"Jim Weisgram" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> If you have a properly milled board, or a stick of MDF, or whatever,
> flat and square, try this: Crosscut it in half, then flip the offcut
> over. Butt up the 2 pieces at the cut, with the board edge against a
> straight edge (such as sitting on the table saw itself).
>
> If there is an anglular error, this will double it and make it that
> much easier to see.
Works great. Really, a nit to pick; it need not be square. The two things
it must have is a really straight edge (that will be against the miter
gauge, or fence on chop saw or radial arm) and the opposite side from the
straight edge must be perfectly parallel.
--
Jim in NC
On 8/20/2010 10:48 PM, GarageWoodworks wrote:
> I wrote a blog post on miter gauge angle error. I'd appreciate any
> feedback or your take on it.
>
> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
With my 50 year old 10" Craftsman table saw, squaring the miter gauge is
as simple as flipping it upside down, putting it in the groove, and
running it up against the back of the table.
For angles I use one of those metal 45 metal triangle. I place the
miter gauge in the groove and place the triangle against the miter gauge
and "square" using the saw blade at full height.
On 8/21/2010 9:44 PM, Morgans wrote:
> "Jim Weisgram"<[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> If you have a properly milled board, or a stick of MDF, or whatever,
>> flat and square, try this: Crosscut it in half, then flip the offcut
>> over. Butt up the 2 pieces at the cut, with the board edge against a
>> straight edge (such as sitting on the table saw itself).
>>
>> If there is an anglular error, this will double it and make it that
>> much easier to see.
>
> Works great. Really, a nit to pick; it need not be square. The two things
> it must have is a really straight edge (that will be against the miter
> gauge, or fence on chop saw or radial arm) and the opposite side from the
> straight edge must be perfectly parallel.
Even easier, no straight edge required: Rip a piece of stable 1/2" (preferably
thicker) scrap about 3" in width (or wider), 24" in length (or longer), then
cross-cut it in half with whatever jig or sled you're trying to calibrate.
Flip the off-cut over, pivot the right and left ends towards each other so they
come together away from you, and with the cross-cut ends towards you. Stand
the two pieces up on the surface of the table saw top (bringing the far ends up
and towards you), then with the freshly cross-cut ends dead-flat on the table,
slide them together so the two long (ripped) edges touch. If there is a gap at
the top or bottom and they don't mate together perfectly, then you have an
angle error in your cross-cut jig.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/
Father Haskell wrote:
> On Aug 20, 10:48 pm, GarageWoodworks<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> I wrote a blog post on miter gauge angle error. I'd appreciate any
>> feedback or your take on it.
>>
>> http://www.garagewoodworks.com/garage_blog/
With first semester calculus, you could quantify the differential of the
adjacent side with respect to differential of the angle. If you seek
it's maximum, say over a small interval containing the desired measure
of your angle, then you will know how many significant digits that
you'll need in order to satisfy your requirements. This way you can
work to the precision and thus the accuracy that you require, not more
and not less.
Bill
>
> I use a 12" 45-90-45 plastic draftsman's triangle. Gets my
> miter gauge as close to square as I'll ever need it, in less
> than 1 minute.
>
> Add a 30-60-90 triangle, and you can quickly set up to
> any angle multiple of 15 degrees.
On 8/24/2010 7:49 PM, Morgans wrote:
> "Steve Turner"<[email protected]> wrote
>
>> Even easier, no straight edge required: Rip a piece of stable 1/2"
>> (preferably thicker) scrap about 3" in width (or wider), 24" in length (or
>> longer), then cross-cut it in half with whatever jig or sled you're trying
>> to calibrate. Flip the off-cut over, pivot the right and left ends towards
>> each other so they come together away from you, and with the cross-cut
>> ends towards you. Stand the two pieces up on the surface of the table saw
>> top (bringing the far ends up and towards you), then with the freshly
>> cross-cut ends dead-flat on the table, slide them together so the two long
>> (ripped) edges touch. If there is a gap at the top or bottom and they
>> don't mate together perfectly, then you have an angle error in your
>> cross-cut jig.
>
> Right, except if there is no straight edge to register on the miter gauge,
> how do you get it to represent what the angle is, and how do you get it to
> compare to each other if it doesn't have a straight edge to compare?
>
> Either that, or I lost you in all of the ripping and flipping and stuff.
>
> I'll continue to get two straight and parallel sides when I adjust my saw or
> sled, thanks.<g>
Sorry; when I said "no straight edge required", I was referring to Jim's
version of a "straight edge" (a tool) not a piece of scrap with a "straight
edge". Implied in my instructions to "rip a piece of stable scrap" was the
assumption that you're working on a well-calibrated saw, where the blade is
exactly parallel to the miter slot, and the rip fence is likewise parallel and
true, thus (by default) yielding a workpiece with a straight edge.
--
Free bad advice available here.
To reply, eat the taco.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bbqboyee/