Is this a dumb idea?
I have a bunch of 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to miter at various angles and
join at their ends with lap joints. I am thinking about using my 7"
dado set on my table saw, replacing the right-hand blade with a 10"
saw blade. Then I can in one pass miter cut the stick to length and
cut the mitered lap joint. But I haven't seen that technique mentioned
before, which makes me worry that I am missing a real negative.
BTW, I would probably make a new ZCTP for this blade combination.
BTW^2, it is a right tilt saw, so the 10" blade would be closest to
the arbor.
Thoughts anyone?
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
On Apr 11, 8:37 pm, alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
> Is this a dumb idea?
>
> I have a bunch of 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to miter at various angles and
> join at their ends with lap joints. I am thinking about using my 7"
> dado set on my table saw, replacing the right-hand blade with a 10"
> saw blade. Then I can in one pass miter cut the stick to length and
> cut the mitered lap joint. But I haven't seen that technique mentioned
> before, which makes me worry that I am missing a real negative.
>
> BTW, I would probably make a new ZCTP for this blade combination.
> BTW^2, it is a right tilt saw, so the 10" blade would be closest to
> the arbor.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
> --
> Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Will the teeth of the adjacent chipper clear the 10 incher? Tom
I haven't tried this, just doing some thinking about the possibilities:
I think you are going to have tooth interferrence between the teeth on the
dado chipper blade and the side of the saw blade. The chipper teeth are
wider than the body of the chipper and will prevent you from tightening the
arbor nut without bending or breaking the chipper teeth. You may get away
with putting a thin spacer washer between the chipper and the saw blade to
keep them apart just the right amount, but that's going to be a pretty
difficult spacer to find as it will need to not only be the right thickness
but precision ground for flatness.
--
Charley
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is this a dumb idea?
>
> I have a bunch of 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to miter at various angles and
> join at their ends with lap joints. I am thinking about using my 7"
> dado set on my table saw, replacing the right-hand blade with a 10"
> saw blade. Then I can in one pass miter cut the stick to length and
> cut the mitered lap joint. But I haven't seen that technique mentioned
> before, which makes me worry that I am missing a real negative.
>
> BTW, I would probably make a new ZCTP for this blade combination.
> BTW^2, it is a right tilt saw, so the 10" blade would be closest to
> the arbor.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
> --
> Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked
infrequently.
I was scanning some old Wood mags last nite and saw almost this
exact same thing. In the Dec2000 issue, pg 32 the reader tip was
to install 1/4" of dado blades spaced 1/4" from his normal blade
with a piece of ply. He was cutting drawer sides to width and
cutting the dado/groove for the bottom on the same pass. The
editors raised no safety concerns and voted it the "Top Shop Tip"
of that issue.
Art
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Is this a dumb idea?
>
> I have a bunch of 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to miter at various angles and
> join at their ends with lap joints. I am thinking about using my 7"
> dado set on my table saw, replacing the right-hand blade with a 10"
> saw blade. Then I can in one pass miter cut the stick to length and
> cut the mitered lap joint. But I haven't seen that technique mentioned
> before, which makes me worry that I am missing a real negative.
>
> BTW, I would probably make a new ZCTP for this blade combination.
> BTW^2, it is a right tilt saw, so the 10" blade would be closest to
> the arbor.
>
> Thoughts anyone?
> --
> Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Will the teeth of the adjacent chipper clear the 10 incher? Tom
> Good question. I may have to add shims to make sure that happens.
>
If the correct length is the end of the lap and you add shims to clear the
10" blade (set on the teeth?), the lap will not be complete to the end of
the stock.
There are so many risk factors in this that it doesn't seem worth the
effort.
"tom" <[email protected]> wrote:
>On Apr 11, 8:37 pm, alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Is this a dumb idea?
>>
>> I have a bunch of 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to miter at various angles and
>> join at their ends with lap joints. I am thinking about using my 7"
>> dado set on my table saw, replacing the right-hand blade with a 10"
>> saw blade. Then I can in one pass miter cut the stick to length and
>> cut the mitered lap joint. But I haven't seen that technique mentioned
>> before, which makes me worry that I am missing a real negative.
>>
>> BTW, I would probably make a new ZCTP for this blade combination.
>> BTW^2, it is a right tilt saw, so the 10" blade would be closest to
>> the arbor.
>>
>> Thoughts anyone?
>> --
>> Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
>
>Will the teeth of the adjacent chipper clear the 10 incher? Tom
Good question. I may have to add shims to make sure that happens.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
alexy wrote:
> Lobby Dosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>>> Will the teeth of the adjacent chipper clear the 10 incher? Tom
>>> Good question. I may have to add shims to make sure that happens.
>>>
>> If the correct length is the end of the lap and you add shims to clear the
>> 10" blade (set on the teeth?), the lap will not be complete to the end of
>> the stock.
> Well the goal of the buildup would be to have the outer edge of the
> dado blade within the "shadow" of the carbide teeth on the saw blade.
>> There are so many risk factors in this that it doesn't seem worth the
>> effort.
> And it's those risk factors I'm trying to assess. Thanks for your
> thoughts.
>
As you mentioned miters at various angles you have to take the diagonal
length of the joint into account. A 45° miter needs almost 1" of dado
blade to cut, this figured with a wooden desk ruler and no reliable
square reference.
Joe
Lobby Dosser <[email protected]> wrote:
>alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>>Will the teeth of the adjacent chipper clear the 10 incher? Tom
>> Good question. I may have to add shims to make sure that happens.
>>
>
>If the correct length is the end of the lap and you add shims to clear the
>10" blade (set on the teeth?), the lap will not be complete to the end of
>the stock.
Well the goal of the buildup would be to have the outer edge of the
dado blade within the "shadow" of the carbide teeth on the saw blade.
>
>There are so many risk factors in this that it doesn't seem worth the
>effort.
And it's those risk factors I'm trying to assess. Thanks for your
thoughts.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
"Charley" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I haven't tried this, just doing some thinking about the possibilities:
>
>I think you are going to have tooth interferrence between the teeth on the
>dado chipper blade and the side of the saw blade. The chipper teeth are
>wider than the body of the chipper and will prevent you from tightening the
>arbor nut without bending or breaking the chipper teeth.
You (and Tom) are right there. I had not thought about that.
> You may get away
>with putting a thin spacer washer between the chipper and the saw blade to
>keep them apart just the right amount, but that's going to be a pretty
>difficult spacer to find as it will need to not only be the right thickness
>but precision ground for flatness.
Actually, it's very easy to find--the outside cutter from the dado
set. Not sure why I was thinking of replacing that with the saw blade.
The dado set outer blades are hollow ground thin-rim steel, with blade
thickness at the center equal to the kerf. I'd put a very thin shim
between the dado outside blade and the 10" carbide saw blade to make
sure the dado's teeth were not interfering, but keep the shim thin
enough that the outside edge of the dado cutter is within the kerf of
the saw blade. Then build up the dado set enough to give my 3/4" lap.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Joe Gorman <[email protected]> wrote:
>As you mentioned miters at various angles you have to take the diagonal
>length of the joint into account. A 45° miter needs almost 1" of dado
>blade to cut, this figured with a wooden desk ruler and no reliable
>square reference.
Spoil-sport! Seriously, this may well be a deal-killer. I'll have to
figure it out when I determine the miter angles I will need. Thanks;
you may have saved me a dope-slap from discovering this after spending
time to set up the saw and make a test cut. <g>
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
On Wed, 11 Apr 2007 23:37:16 -0400, alexy <[email protected]> wrote:
>Is this a dumb idea?
>
>I have a bunch of 3/4" x 3/4" sticks to miter at various angles and
>join at their ends with lap joints. I am thinking about using my 7"
>dado set on my table saw, replacing the right-hand blade with a 10"
>saw blade. Then I can in one pass miter cut the stick to length and
>cut the mitered lap joint. But I haven't seen that technique mentioned
>before, which makes me worry that I am missing a real negative.
As long as the blade is 90 degrees to the table, I don't see problems.