In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic
woodworking projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and
almost undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've
learned to check out the board under various angles to see the
deviations so that I can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove
the chew marks (not sure if that's what they're called).
Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the
boards are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required
would be ridiculous.
Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
mentioned above?
Jack
My Delta will do that if I don't use the dust collector.
"Woodhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've seen little "divots" on the surface of some of the boards I've
planed.
> It didn't matter which planer I was using. They all did it over time.
> I attributed most of the problem to either poor chip removal and the
> rollers then press the chips into the board surface or possibly dull
> blades press them into the surface. Whatever the cause they are hard to
> spot and sand out, especially in cherry. I haven't checked yet to see if
> they go away after a blade change. Maybe someone else has identified the
> source of the problem.
>
On Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:33:15 -0500, "Darrell Dorsey"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Of course. I don't have one, and I've been doing woodworking in
>> various forms for quite some time. Not only is it a hobby, but it's
>> how I make a living, and in every shop I've been in, the jointer sits
>> unused in a corner collecting dust.
>>
>> That isn't to say they don't have their uses, but they are rarely a
>> must have piece of equipment.
>
>So what are the steps you use for flattening rough stock? Do you find that
>hand planes are faster and better than a jointer?
Faster and better? No. Cheaper and smaller? Yes. My standard
procedure with rough lumber (though I will point out that at least 75%
of my stock is S3S) is to hand plane one side, check the board for
parallel faces with some winding sticks, then run it through the
planer.
Truth be told, if it's not too rough I often skip the handplane and go
right to the planer- it hasn't complaned yet.
As far as edge jointing goes, I just run it through the table saw. If
it's warped, I tack it to a bit of mdf and run that against the fence,
then flip it to rip the other side to the final dimention. A good
blade and a bit of practice will give you cut edges that are ready for
glue up right off the saw.
If your saw isn't very accurate for one reason or another and you need
a better finish for edge jointing, just clamp the two boards that are
to be jointed together, stand them on end, and shave them both with a
handplane at the same time. Even if you're a little out of square,
the result will be complemenary angles.
A good hand plane (or even a bad hand plane that is sharp and tuned
up) is easy to use, and very portable. A jointer is easier to use,
but you're never going to lug it to a jobsite to trim a door- and when
you're not using it, it's an aircraft carrier collecting dust in your
shop. I'm not a neander by any means, but at least in my shop, that's
a bit of big iron that would probably not earn it's keep.
Of course, I reserve the right to change my mind and buy one at any
time! :)
mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:
> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic
> woodworking projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and
> almost undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've
> learned to check out the board under various angles to see the
> deviations so that I can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove
> the chew marks (not sure if that's what they're called).
>
> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
> the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
> reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the
> boards are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required
> would be ridiculous.
>
> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
> mentioned above?
Just the DW733 in my case, and you'd be sanding the cutter marks from
the wood with this planer. Tom
The reason above folks suggested a Jointer is that a cupped or bowed
board needs to be flattened on one side and then put that side down
through the planner to get the other side parrallel which means that it
also will get flat. The planner rollers will flatten a board going
through but the board will want to go back to its cupped shape. If you
get tear out feed the board in the other direction to get the grain in
the correct direction. My delta has problems without dust collection as
stated above. Also try a lighter pass at very end.
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
> wrote in message
>> - looking at , the Delta 22-580, Do these portable thickness planers do
>> a reasonable job of smoothing a rough board? Does anyone have any
>> experience with the three models I've mentioned above?
>
> I have the Delta. When the blades are new, you can go from planer to
> finish. As they age, the finish is less than perfect. You NEED a dust
> collector with it for best results.
I missed the beginning of this thread... but have a different take on the
role of the thickness planer than the theme I've seen in the replies thus
far. I view the thickness planner as a dimensioning tool and not as a
finishing tool. The resulting finish may be OK if you are painting or doing
work that demands a less than fine finish but for furniture, cabinets, or
architectural woodworking where a fine finish is desired the thickness
planer is not a finishing tool.
No matter how good of a job the thickness planer does the surface still has
small undulations from the rotating knives. Worst case the surface has
compressed wood from dull knives that can later expand when the finish is
applied... Hand planning or sanding (power or hand) is needed to remove
those surface defects.
My new favorite tool is an L-N No 7... I take the wood out of the thickness
planer and plane the thickness planer surface off with a few passes of the
No 7. Sanding using a firm sanding block and progressively finer grades of
paper will do the job too but the jointer hand plane does the job quickly
and takes care of minor snipe quickly. I find that with soft woods (relative
hardness rather than broad category of hard wood vs. softwood) that hand
planning works better as sanding often hollows out the soft parts of the
wood between growth rings while leaving the hard parts standing a bit proud.
This might sound odd but I've found that my L-N No 4 with York pitch, a
tight mouth and fine iron setting works wonderfully on new white pine...
seems counter intuitive but a lot of the new white pine is so weak that it
tears out with a more aggressive hand planning attack. Basically I'm
treating it like a wild grain hard wood. ;~)
John
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
>I don't have a jointer
Okay, I kinda got that impression. If your using rough stock lumber, you'll
definitely want to get a jointer first. You need to flatten and square up
one side first on the jointer then run the remaining rough side through the
planer to make it parallel.
Most of the lunch box planners will do a good job. I have an 8 year Delta
22-560, and it performs very well. I don't run a lot of lumber so I have
the original set of blades installed. I have a spare set, but haven't found
the need to change just yet. If I take my time and run the last few passes
in very small increments, (say 1/4 turn on the handle), I can get a very
smooth finish.
I'm gonna upgrade to a 15" in planner some day, but that will mainly be for
noise issues. The induction motor will be a little quieter than the
universal on the lunch box.
Darrell
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
>I don't have a jointer
Okay, I kinda got that impression. If you buying rough stock lumber, you'll
need to consider getting a jointer first. The jointer will flatten one side
and square up one edge. You can then run the remaining rough side through
the planer to get is parallel and final thickness. With out some jigs and
finagling, it will be difficult to get parallel sides on rough stock.
Most of the lunchbox planers that have been suggested with give you good
finish. But you will need to do some final sanding. I have an 8 year old
Delta 22-560. I don't run a lot of lumber through mine and I have the
original set of blades. If I take very light passes on the final passes, I
can get a very smooth finish.
Darrell
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic woodworking
> projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and almost
> undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've learned to
> check out the board under various angles to see the deviations so that I
> can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove the chew marks (not
> sure if that's what they're called).
>
> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
> the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
> reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the boards
> are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required would be
> ridiculous.
>
> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
> mentioned above?
What jointer do you have?
Darrell
I've seen little "divots" on the surface of some of the boards I've planed.
It didn't matter which planer I was using. They all did it over time.
I attributed most of the problem to either poor chip removal and the
rollers then press the chips into the board surface or possibly dull
blades press them into the surface. Whatever the cause they are hard to
spot and sand out, especially in cherry. I haven't checked yet to see if
they go away after a blade change. Maybe someone else has identified the
source of the problem.
Jim
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic woodworking
> projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and almost
> undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've learned to
> check out the board under various angles to see the deviations so that I
> can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove the chew marks (not
> sure if that's what they're called).
>
> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
> the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
> reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the boards
> are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required would be
> ridiculous.
>
> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
> mentioned above?
>
> Jack
>
>
>
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Of course. I don't have one, and I've been doing woodworking in
> various forms for quite some time. Not only is it a hobby, but it's
> how I make a living, and in every shop I've been in, the jointer sits
> unused in a corner collecting dust.
>
> That isn't to say they don't have their uses, but they are rarely a
> must have piece of equipment.
So what are the steps you use for flattening rough stock? Do you find that
hand planes are faster and better than a jointer?
Darrell
I have seen them too on some particularly resinous pine, the chips were so
sticky with resin that they stuck to the rollers and embossed the wood
surface.
"Woodhead" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've seen little "divots" on the surface of some of the boards I've
> planed.
> It didn't matter which planer I was using. They all did it over time.
> I attributed most of the problem to either poor chip removal and the
> rollers then press the chips into the board surface or possibly dull
> blades press them into the surface. Whatever the cause they are hard to
> spot and sand out, especially in cherry. I haven't checked yet to see if
> they go away after a blade change. Maybe someone else has identified the
> source of the problem.
>
> Jim
>
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
>> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic woodworking
>> projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and almost
>> undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've learned to
>> check out the board under various angles to see the deviations so that I
>> can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove the chew marks (not
>> sure if that's what they're called).
>>
>> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
>> the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
>> reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the boards
>> are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required would be
>> ridiculous.
>>
>> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
>> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
>> mentioned above?
>>
>> Jack
>>
>>
>>
>
>
"Tyke" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have the Delta 22-580. It does a great job, especially at the slower
>speed, but as other posters have stated you may need some final light
>sanding or scraping - unless the piece has some wild grain which can cause
>tearout. The blades will get some nicks and these will leave small lines.
>The Delta has rubber rollers so you will not see the "teeth" marks from
>models which have steel rollers which are machined for grip, but which
>leave little "teeth" marks.
>
You need to study planer setup a bit more thoroughly. The serrated steel
rollers are tension adjustable, which allows you to get the best compromise
between no-slip feeding and the depth of cut which removes evidence of same.
Important part of feed problems lies below, however, where the bed roller
adjustment allows smooth feed with little pressure from above.
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Saturday I prepped enough stock for the eight students signed up for my
> hand cut dovetail class. The students will make Shaker style pencil
> boxes--though some may opt for finer "Empire" style dovetails with
> contrasting wood. (More guys wanted to come but I am afraid to try to
> tackle more than eight students even with help!) To put the focus on the
> layout and cutting of the dovetails I figured I'd get all the stock ready
> ahead of time.
Don't any more, but I used to prepare a couple pieces once a year for the
kids as a demo. Scrub to smooth and beyond. Glad there was a shower near
by, as it's sweaty work, especially to one who is used to letting the
machine do it. My preference, as a matter of fact. Product over process
there, anytime.
"Prometheus" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sat, 17 Jun 2006 08:33:15 -0500, "Darrell Dorsey"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>So what are the steps you use for flattening rough stock? Do you find
>>that
>>hand planes are faster and better than a jointer?
>
> Faster and better? No. Cheaper and smaller? Yes. My standard
> procedure with rough lumber (though I will point out that at least 75%
> of my stock is S3S) is to hand plane one side, check the board for
> parallel faces with some winding sticks, then run it through the
> planer.
>
> Truth be told, if it's not too rough I often skip the handplane and go
> right to the planer- it hasn't complaned yet.
>
Note, there's hardly a tool out there you can't work around, though some
people must get taken up with process and forget about time entirely. A
decent jointer is too handy, and scarcely a buck and a half more expensive
than the LN #7, which is why most shops have one, even when lumber is
delivered surfaced and edged. It's not worth fussing.
No need to give a board parallel faces to put it through a planer. Plain
and plane silly. All you need is a stable board and to let the planer do
its job. Most people will do a quick high spot knock down and start the
feed if they need to. Even people with jointers do this. The machine does
an averaging act as it feeds. Of course, you can always stabilize boards on
a sled.
Did I mention that anyone owning their own planer should have their head
examined if they plane and store lumber? With a planer you make up what you
need in the dimension you require on the spot. Which is why you make shorter
boards, which are easier to work with, of the longer before processing.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
>
> If I'm just looking at doing things no bigger than a couple feet, like
> boxes ... can I get away without having a jointer?
Yes, easily.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> Darrell,
>
> How rough does a board have to be to justify getting a jointer? The wood
> at the Santa Fe store seems pretty flat and I'm looking to just do small
> projects. Of course, even a small curvature probably makes a reasonable
> difference when making cabinets or dressers.
I really don't know. Never thought about it. I always buy 8 to 10 foot
boards 6-8 inches wide. I don't have time or patients to flatten one side
with a jointer. So a jointer is the only way to go for me.
> If I'm just looking at doing things no bigger than a couple feet, like
> boxes ... can I get away without having a jointer? Space is a premium in
> my workshop.
Again, don't know, never tried it. My first step with rough lumber is to
flatten one side on the jointer. I have worked with shorter pieces of rough
stock. But I flatten first. I know I've seen jigs in magazines that allow
you to shim and hold rough boards for flattening on a planer, with out a
jointer. Never thought about using one, cause I have a jointer.
Darrell
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 18:39:40 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Darrell,
>
>How rough does a board have to be to justify getting a jointer? The
>wood at the Santa Fe store seems pretty flat and I'm looking to just do
>small projects. Of course, even a small curvature probably makes a
>reasonable difference when making cabinets or dressers.
>
>If I'm just looking at doing things no bigger than a couple feet, like
>boxes ... can I get away without having a jointer? Space is a premium
>in my workshop.
Yes, but you really should have a hand plane or two to straighten the
edges prior to running through the table saw.
-Leuf
I have the Delta 22-580. It does a great job, especially at the slower
speed, but as other posters have stated you may need some final light
sanding or scraping - unless the piece has some wild grain which can cause
tearout. The blades will get some nicks and these will leave small lines.
The Delta has rubber rollers so you will not see the "teeth" marks from
models which have steel rollers which are machined for grip, but which leave
little "teeth" marks.
I also have a drum sander which can sand without tearout, but also needs
final light sanding or scraping to get a really smooth finish.
Bottom line is to expect some degree of final smoothing, but it should not
take long.
Dave Paine.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic woodworking
> projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and almost
> undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've learned to
> check out the board under various angles to see the deviations so that I
> can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove the chew marks (not
> sure if that's what they're called).
>
> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
> the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
> reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the boards
> are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required would be
> ridiculous.
>
> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
> mentioned above?
>
> Jack
>
>
>
It's a plane. Place it on the wood and push.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> What is an L-N No. 7? I assume it's a planer of some sort, but I can't
> find it anywhere.
"Darrell Dorsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I guess you cant trust spell checkers to do the thinking for you as well
> as check spelling!!!!!
I thing your write. Doughnut get you made?
What is an L-N No. 7? I assume it's a planer of some sort, but I can't
find it anywhere.
Jack
John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
>>wrote in message
>>
>>> - looking at , the Delta 22-580, Do these portable thickness planers do
>>>a reasonable job of smoothing a rough board? Does anyone have any
>>>experience with the three models I've mentioned above?
>>
>>I have the Delta. When the blades are new, you can go from planer to
>>finish. As they age, the finish is less than perfect. You NEED a dust
>>collector with it for best results.
>
>
> I missed the beginning of this thread... but have a different take on the
> role of the thickness planer than the theme I've seen in the replies thus
> far. I view the thickness planner as a dimensioning tool and not as a
> finishing tool. The resulting finish may be OK if you are painting or doing
> work that demands a less than fine finish but for furniture, cabinets, or
> architectural woodworking where a fine finish is desired the thickness
> planer is not a finishing tool.
>
> No matter how good of a job the thickness planer does the surface still has
> small undulations from the rotating knives. Worst case the surface has
> compressed wood from dull knives that can later expand when the finish is
> applied... Hand planning or sanding (power or hand) is needed to remove
> those surface defects.
>
> My new favorite tool is an L-N No 7... I take the wood out of the thickness
> planer and plane the thickness planer surface off with a few passes of the
> No 7. Sanding using a firm sanding block and progressively finer grades of
> paper will do the job too but the jointer hand plane does the job quickly
> and takes care of minor snipe quickly. I find that with soft woods (relative
> hardness rather than broad category of hard wood vs. softwood) that hand
> planning works better as sanding often hollows out the soft parts of the
> wood between growth rings while leaving the hard parts standing a bit proud.
> This might sound odd but I've found that my L-N No 4 with York pitch, a
> tight mouth and fine iron setting works wonderfully on new white pine...
> seems counter intuitive but a lot of the new white pine is so weak that it
> tears out with a more aggressive hand planning attack. Basically I'm
> treating it like a wild grain hard wood. ;~)
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
"John Grossbohlin" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
>> wrote in message
>>> - looking at , the Delta 22-580, Do these portable thickness planers do
>>> a reasonable job of smoothing a rough board? Does anyone have any
>snip
> those surface defects.
>
> My new favorite tool is an L-N No 7... I take the wood out of the
> thickness planer and plane the thickness planer surface off with a few
> passes of the No 7. Sanding using a firm sanding block and progressively
> finer grades of paper will do the job too but the jointer hand plane does
> the job quickly and takes care of minor snipe quickly. I find that with
> soft woods (relative hardness rather than broad category of hard wood vs.
> softwood) that hand planning works better as sanding often hollows out the
> soft parts of the wood between growth rings while leaving the hard parts
> standing a bit proud. This might sound odd but I've found that my L-N No 4
> with York pitch, a tight mouth and fine iron setting works wonderfully on
> new white pine... seems counter intuitive but a lot of the new white pine
> is so weak that it tears out with a more aggressive hand planning attack.
> Basically I'm treating it like a wild grain hard wood. ;~)
> John
My 607 Bedrock with a Hock iron does a fair job too. :-)
My current passion is for the 5 1/2 Bailey that I recently put into use, and
it's a $40 plane with no special irons or breakers. It's a weird one
though, the iron is 2 1/4" wide instead of 2 3/8". Hock has a 2 1/4" iron
listed.
I think I'll make a shooting board for it. It is flat and square, with good
mass.
Darrell,
How rough does a board have to be to justify getting a jointer? The
wood at the Santa Fe store seems pretty flat and I'm looking to just do
small projects. Of course, even a small curvature probably makes a
reasonable difference when making cabinets or dressers.
If I'm just looking at doing things no bigger than a couple feet, like
boxes ... can I get away without having a jointer? Space is a premium
in my workshop.
Jack
Darrell Dorsey wrote:
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
> in message news:[email protected]...
>
>>I don't have a jointer
>
>
> Okay, I kinda got that impression. If your using rough stock lumber, you'll
> definitely want to get a jointer first. You need to flatten and square up
> one side first on the jointer then run the remaining rough side through the
> planer to make it parallel.
>
> Most of the lunch box planners will do a good job. I have an 8 year Delta
> 22-560, and it performs very well. I don't run a lot of lumber so I have
> the original set of blades installed. I have a spare set, but haven't found
> the need to change just yet. If I take my time and run the last few passes
> in very small increments, (say 1/4 turn on the handle), I can get a very
> smooth finish.
>
> I'm gonna upgrade to a 15" in planner some day, but that will mainly be for
> noise issues. The induction motor will be a little quieter than the
> universal on the lunch box.
>
> Darrell
>
>
>
Thanks for the link!
John Grossbohlin wrote:
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
> in message news:[email protected]...
>
>>What is an L-N No. 7? I assume it's a planer of some sort, but I can't
>>find it anywhere.
>>
>>Jack
>
>
> As others have mentioned, it's a hand plane. Following is a link.
>
> http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1264
>
> I'd wanted one for at least three years. Tom L-N and his daughter manned
> the L-N booth at my club's woodworking show in March and I decided to go for
> it... With the "show special" discount and the "post card" discount it was
> slightly less painful than paying full pop. After using it, compared to my
> grandfather's abused and tired Millers Falls 22, I promptly forgot the
> price. This as it works so nicely! I find I use it for things where a
> smaller plane could work. ;~)
>
> Saturday I prepped enough stock for the eight students signed up for my hand
> cut dovetail class. The students will make Shaker style pencil boxes--though
> some may opt for finer "Empire" style dovetails with contrasting wood. (More
> guys wanted to come but I am afraid to try to tackle more than eight
> students even with help!) To put the focus on the layout and cutting of the
> dovetails I figured I'd get all the stock ready ahead of time. Running the
> L-N No 7 over everything took care of the thickness planner snipe and
> undulations in short order and besides it was another excuse to use the
> plane!
>
> John
>
>
>
Tnx! Damn, it's like learning science. Half the time, I'm just trying
to wade through the acronyms.
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
> in message news:[email protected]...
>
>>What is an L-N No. 7? I assume it's a planer of some sort, but I can't
>>find it anywhere.
>>
>
>
> Plane, no planer. Lie-Neilson makes them.
>
>
Yes, I've already fell victim to that problem. Right now, I have a board
that is uneven on both sides. What I plan on doing is taking a nice
straight guide board (like a precut 2x1 oak strip), affixing it to one
side, then making my first straight cut with the straight tacked strip
up against the fence. Then, the board should be ready for a simple cut
on the other side with the newly cut side against the fence.
I'll check the newly cut side first and ... as you suggest ... hand
plane it if necessary to ensure a nice straight cut.
Thanks!
Jack
Leuf wrote:
> On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 18:39:40 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
> <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>
>
>>Darrell,
>>
>>How rough does a board have to be to justify getting a jointer? The
>>wood at the Santa Fe store seems pretty flat and I'm looking to just do
>>small projects. Of course, even a small curvature probably makes a
>>reasonable difference when making cabinets or dressers.
>>
>>If I'm just looking at doing things no bigger than a couple feet, like
>>boxes ... can I get away without having a jointer? Space is a premium
>>in my workshop.
>
>
> Yes, but you really should have a hand plane or two to straighten the
> edges prior to running through the table saw.
>
>
> -Leuf
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> What is an L-N No. 7? I assume it's a planer of some sort, but I can't
> find it anywhere.
>
Plane, no planer. Lie-Neilson makes them.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
wrote in news:[email protected]:
> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic
> woodworking projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and
> almost undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've
> learned to check out the board under various angles to see the
> deviations so that I can make sure that I've sanded it enough to
> remove the chew marks (not sure if that's what they're called).
>
> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking
> at the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have
> a reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the
> boards are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required
> would be ridiculous.
>
> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models
> I've mentioned above?
>
> Jack
>
I've used the DeWalt in my neighbor's shop, and the Delta at the local
adult ed shop. I've got a Ridgid TP1300 in my shop. Those are all
pretty good tools.
They're best at thicknessing, even with new or freshly honed blades.
There will almost always be a sanding stage afterwards, even if you've
applied some seriously tuned hand plane to the surface, with most woods.
For me, that's OK.
I tried a drum sander, the Performax 16-32, for a while, and sold it
after six months. It did what it was supposed to do, I suppose, but not
what I really thought I wanted it to do. Some of my tools are like
that, after all.
Smoothing a rough board is what a thickness planer does, but there will
likely be some further finishing required to get it to 'perfect' or
'done well enough' for me. Set your expectations, and you'll be OK.
Patriarch,
playing with hand planes more and more...
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> What is an L-N No. 7? I assume it's a planer of some sort, but I can't
> find it anywhere.
>
> Jack
As others have mentioned, it's a hand plane. Following is a link.
http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1264
I'd wanted one for at least three years. Tom L-N and his daughter manned
the L-N booth at my club's woodworking show in March and I decided to go for
it... With the "show special" discount and the "post card" discount it was
slightly less painful than paying full pop. After using it, compared to my
grandfather's abused and tired Millers Falls 22, I promptly forgot the
price. This as it works so nicely! I find I use it for things where a
smaller plane could work. ;~)
Saturday I prepped enough stock for the eight students signed up for my hand
cut dovetail class. The students will make Shaker style pencil boxes--though
some may opt for finer "Empire" style dovetails with contrasting wood. (More
guys wanted to come but I am afraid to try to tackle more than eight
students even with help!) To put the focus on the layout and cutting of the
dovetails I figured I'd get all the stock ready ahead of time. Running the
L-N No 7 over everything took care of the thickness planner snipe and
undulations in short order and besides it was another excuse to use the
plane!
John
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message
> - looking at , the Delta 22-580, Do these portable thickness planers do a
> reasonable job of smoothing a rough board? Does anyone have any
> experience with the three models I've mentioned above?
I have the Delta. When the blades are new, you can go from planer to
finish. As they age, the finish is less than perfect. You NEED a dust
collector with it for best results.
"alexy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Darrell Dorsey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>I really don't know. Never thought about it. I always buy 8 to 10 foot
>>boards 6-8 inches wide. I don't have time or patients to flatten one side
>
> Even if you had the patients, how would you convince them to do the
> flattening for you? <g>
I guess you cant trust spell checkers to do the thinking for you as well as
check spelling!!!!!
Darrell
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic woodworking
> projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and almost
> undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've learned to
> check out the board under various angles to see the deviations so that I
> can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove the chew marks (not
> sure if that's what they're called).
>
> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
> the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
> reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the boards
> are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required would be
> ridiculous.
>
> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
> mentioned above?
What size jointer do you have?
Darrell
I have a planer, no jointer. Not likely to ever have one. No need.
"Darrell Dorsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net">
wrote
> in message news:[email protected]...
> >I don't have a jointer
>
> Okay, I kinda got that impression. If your using rough stock lumber,
you'll
> definitely want to get a jointer first. You need to flatten and square up
> one side first on the jointer then run the remaining rough side through
the
> planer to make it parallel.
>
> Most of the lunch box planners will do a good job. I have an 8 year Delta
> 22-560, and it performs very well. I don't run a lot of lumber so I have
> the original set of blades installed. I have a spare set, but haven't
found
> the need to change just yet. If I take my time and run the last few
passes
> in very small increments, (say 1/4 turn on the handle), I can get a very
> smooth finish.
>
> I'm gonna upgrade to a 15" in planner some day, but that will mainly be
for
> noise issues. The induction motor will be a little quieter than the
> universal on the lunch box.
>
> Darrell
>
>
>
On Fri, 9 Jun 2006 19:46:37 -0400, "Woodhead"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I've seen little "divots" on the surface of some of the boards I've planed.
> It didn't matter which planer I was using. They all did it over time.
>I attributed most of the problem to either poor chip removal and the
>rollers then press the chips into the board surface or possibly dull
>blades press them into the surface. Whatever the cause they are hard to
>spot and sand out, especially in cherry. I haven't checked yet to see if
>they go away after a blade change. Maybe someone else has identified the
>source of the problem.
My observation, for whatever it's worth, is that mill marks on a
thickness planer usually come from not taking enough of a bite on each
pass. Even on a big Powermatic, they still appear from time to time,
but they are the worst on the first pass that touches the board, where
the knives are skipping along the surface rather than digging in
nicely.
Overall, I'm really less than overwhelmed by the technology. Every so
often they do a job that nothing else will, but they're tough to set
up, extremely loud, and the knives always seem to get nicked right
away. I don't intend to toss mine to the curb, but I never expect the
end result to be ready for finishing without a little sanding time
first.
On Mon, 12 Jun 2006 18:39:40 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"
<"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:
>Darrell,
>
>How rough does a board have to be to justify getting a jointer? The
>wood at the Santa Fe store seems pretty flat and I'm looking to just do
>small projects. Of course, even a small curvature probably makes a
>reasonable difference when making cabinets or dressers.
>
>If I'm just looking at doing things no bigger than a couple feet, like
>boxes ... can I get away without having a jointer? Space is a premium
>in my workshop.
Of course. I don't have one, and I've been doing woodworking in
various forms for quite some time. Not only is it a hobby, but it's
how I make a living, and in every shop I've been in, the jointer sits
unused in a corner collecting dust.
That isn't to say they don't have their uses, but they are rarely a
must have piece of equipment.
I have a Delta 22-560. Predeccor to the one you're looking at. With proper
technique (not hard), the only finish work required after planing is a light
tough with a card scraper and very light finish sand. You will appreciate
having a planer. Stock thicknessed by you to your specs is far better than
anything you can buy.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote
in message news:[email protected]...
> In the past, some of the boards I've purchased for some basic
> woodworking projects have had "chew" marks on them. Very small and
> almost undetectable, but quickly seen when you stain the board. I've
> learned to check out the board under various angles to see the
> deviations so that I can make sure that I've sanded it enough to remove
> the chew marks (not sure if that's what they're called).
>
> Anyway, I'm thinking of buying a portable thickness planer - looking at
> the Dewalt DW733, the Delta 22-580, and the Makita 2012NB. I have a
> reasonable selection of woods available to me in Santa Fe, but the
> boards are usually far too rough and the amount of sanding required
> would be ridiculous.
>
> Do these portable thickness planers do a reasonable job of smoothing a
> rough board? Does anyone have any experience with the three models I've
> mentioned above?
>
> Jack
>
>
>
"Darrell Dorsey" <[email protected]> wrote:
>I really don't know. Never thought about it. I always buy 8 to 10 foot
>boards 6-8 inches wide. I don't have time or patients to flatten one side
Even if you had the patients, how would you convince them to do the
flattening for you? <g>
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.