I just finished assembly of a photo storage box, which is made of
walnut front and back panels and maple side panels. They are joined in
the corners with some through dovetails for contrasting color. I'm
ready to finish it, and my plan was just to brush on some minwax clear
oil based poly. I want to bring out the grain but limit the amount of
work. I love those pictures of hand rubbed finishes that are built up
of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
compromise?
Mark
Thin the Minwax at least 50% and wipe on several coats .. .. .. usually,
you can do 3-4 coats in a day, with a LIGHT sanding about every 4th coat,
just to get rid of dust nibs. Thin with VM&P Naphtha and it will dry to
the touch in minutes .. .. .. after about 3-5 days, you can let it "REST"
& cure for several days. Wax it, using 0000 steel wool, and it should
look GREAT !! !! !!
I just used this procedure on a vanity I built for a friend .. .. ..
finish looked GREAT after about 5 coats .. .. .. sanded it lightly and
gave it 2 more .. .. .. looks better than the pre catalyzed lacquer I
usually use .. .. ..
Mark wrote:
> I just finished assembly of a photo storage box, which is made of
> walnut front and back panels and maple side panels. They are joined in
> the corners with some through dovetails for contrasting color. I'm
> ready to finish it, and my plan was just to brush on some minwax clear
> oil based poly. I want to bring out the grain but limit the amount of
> work. I love those pictures of hand rubbed finishes that are built up
> of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
> a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
> compromise?
> Mark
--
I AM NOT PARANOID .. .. .. but EVERYONE thinks I am !! !! !!
<<<__ Bob __>>>
Hop on down to your favorite hardware store and gets a couple or three spray
cans of Deft lacquer
With shellac's drying time it'd also be a good candidate but, because of
it's quick drying time, brushing it on is a tad more problematic then
spraying the lacquer.
Ahh, if you do go with the lacquer make sure you have some decent cross
ventilation. The stuff will have you buzzed in about ten minutes if you
don't..
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just finished assembly of a photo storage box, which is made of
> walnut front and back panels and maple side panels. They are joined in
> the corners with some through dovetails for contrasting color. I'm
> ready to finish it, and my plan was just to brush on some minwax clear
> oil based poly. I want to bring out the grain but limit the amount of
> work. I love those pictures of hand rubbed finishes that are built up
> of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
> a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
> compromise?
> Mark
Gloss Wipe-On Poly is nice. Coat morning, five hours or so if the weather's
favorable to level with mineral spirits/400 wet and dry. Tack, recoat, do
the level next morning and decide if you want it deeper after a rub off. If
so, do another couple of coats, same drill. Then let your gloss dry
three-four days, rub out at 600, Tripoli buff gently (no heat) and follow
with rouge if you want a mirror. Careful not to cut through the last coat,
or you might pick up a ring.
Regular poly diluted with mineral spirits 2 poly one spirits will do about
the same. Reason for the dilute is I can't ever seem to get that run and
sag free finish with full strength. If you can, you may still buff it out
after the last coat.
Now let me tell you about shellac ... no, one of the anti-poly Nazis will
take care of that for me. For quick and glow it's tough to beat.
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just finished assembly of a photo storage box, which is made of
> walnut front and back panels and maple side panels. They are joined in
> the corners with some through dovetails for contrasting color. I'm
> ready to finish it, and my plan was just to brush on some minwax clear
> oil based poly. I want to bring out the grain but limit the amount of
> work. I love those pictures of hand rubbed finishes that are built up
> of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
> a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
> compromise?
> Mark
Try zinser quick 15 brush on varnish. Can put 3 coats on in a day and rub
out with turpentine and mineral oil and 1500 grit paper for a beautiful
finish. Seal with a thin coat of shellac before first coat of varnish.
Shellac needs very little time to try.
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just finished assembly of a photo storage box, which is made of
> walnut front and back panels and maple side panels. They are joined in
> the corners with some through dovetails for contrasting color. I'm
> ready to finish it, and my plan was just to brush on some minwax clear
> oil based poly. I want to bring out the grain but limit the amount of
> work. I love those pictures of hand rubbed finishes that are built up
> of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
> a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
> compromise?
> Mark
Mark wrote:
> of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
> a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
> compromise?
Shellac dries remarakbly fast...you can apply several coats each day.
--
************************************
Chris Merrill
[email protected]
(remove the ZZZ to contact me)
************************************
On 14 Aug 2003 13:34:44 -0700, [email protected] (Mark) wrote:
>I just finished assembly of a photo storage box, which is made of
>walnut front and back panels and maple side panels. They are joined in
>the corners with some through dovetails for contrasting color. I'm
>ready to finish it, and my plan was just to brush on some minwax clear
>oil based poly. I want to bring out the grain but limit the amount of
>work. I love those pictures of hand rubbed finishes that are built up
>of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
>a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
>compromise?
>Mark
Perfect job for shellac. It builds quickly, dries quickly and, if you
do it tonight, you may be able to gently rub it out before delivery.
Regards, Tom
Tom Watson - Woodworker
Gulph Mills, Pennsylvania
http://users.snip.net/~tjwatson
I would use a few coats of Waterlox - an oil/varnish blend. It is really
easy to apply and brings out the grain very nicely, as well as provide
moderate protection. Then put a coat or two of paste wax on the surface.
check out www.waterlox.com
Mike
"Mark" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I just finished assembly of a photo storage box, which is made of
> walnut front and back panels and maple side panels. They are joined in
> the corners with some through dovetails for contrasting color. I'm
> ready to finish it, and my plan was just to brush on some minwax clear
> oil based poly. I want to bring out the grain but limit the amount of
> work. I love those pictures of hand rubbed finishes that are built up
> of 10 or 12 coats. But I don't have the patience and the box is due as
> a gift weekend after next. Any recommendations or is the minwax a good
> compromise?
> Mark