Hey everyone, I got into planing quite well in my adult ed. class here in
the new semester. I was planing stretchers and legs for my wood working
bench, quite a great task to enjoy, I love it because of the feel of the work
and the workout. Just plane old DF and a Footprint blade in a Stanley
Bailey No. 5 type 12. I had done a lot of sole and side lapping and I
noticed last night, as the toe points away from me, the left side is perfectly
square_to_sole and it is the thinner wall. However the right wall indents
on top about 1.5º...seems to be quite a "tilt" though the wall is flat and not
curved, possibly because of my previous lapping work on it. But I find it
a possibly daunting task to actually square it to the sole, holding it by
hand at a perfect 90º, lapping, and getting actual results does not seem
possible.
Anyone got the right method I could learn and apply? I'd much appreciate
any help, thanks all,
--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free excellent windows bible)
A bit wary about answering this, cannot completely interpret certain
words (UK) but thought as this modification has served me for so many
years i pass it on. i think you are trying to make the face of a board
90' to the side, for gluing wide boards etc. What i suggest is to drill
and tap in the plane side, for 3 bolts and shape a guide (i used
polycarbonate) which protrudes 2" or so below the plane surface all
with curves smooth to the touch. Then the beauty of this is it does not
matter re:your rogue plane side as you can pack/tune the added guide to
the 90' required. As an added feature i fixed a spare wooden knob on
the guide at the front to hold plane. The guide/fence runs along the
wide surface and the plane cuts the side. Is that comprehensible for
both languages ?
>A bit wary about answering this, cannot completely interpret certain
> words (UK) but thought as this modification has served me for so many
> years i pass it on. i think you are trying to make the face of a board
> 90' to the side, for gluing wide boards etc. What i suggest is to drill
> and tap in the plane side, for 3 bolts and shape a guide (i used
> polycarbonate) which protrudes 2" or so below the plane surface all
> with curves smooth to the touch. Then the beauty of this is it does not
> matter re:your rogue plane side as you can pack/tune the added guide to
> the 90' required. As an added feature i fixed a spare wooden knob on
> the guide at the front to hold plane. The guide/fence runs along the
> wide surface and the plane cuts the side. Is that comprehensible for
> both languages ?
>
No... just about the side of the plane being square to the sole and getting it there.
--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free excellent windows bible)
> If I understand your description, you are concerned about the right
> side wall of the body not being square. Unless you are going to use the
> plane on its right side in a shooting board, it doesn't matter. The
> decription of your usage did not seem to describe a shooting board use.
>
Hmmm... if I did use a shooting board, the plane would lie on it's left side
anyway... so... thanks. That is something I intend to make.
--
Alex
cravdraa - at - yahoo - dot - comment
http://www.e-sword.net/ (free excellent windows bible)