I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood), and these
are structural posts for a car port & garage.
The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide, and
they are then are through bolted to it.
Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not to
good.
The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have had
galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on average.
So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
(i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
perhaps 9mm.
My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ... but
it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm wide.
I have a hand held router.
Any other suggestions ?
It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
Rick
Rick Hughes wrote:
> I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood), and these
> are structural posts for a car port & garage.
>
> The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
> proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide, and
> they are then are through bolted to it.
>
> Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not to
> good.
>
>
> The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have had
> galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on average.
>
> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
> perhaps 9mm.
> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ... but
> it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm wide.
> I have a hand held router.
>
> Any other suggestions ?
>
> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>
>
> Rick
Mark it with a mortice guage or if you haven't got one something else -
pencil?
Cut it with a sharp handsaw - e.g. new cheapo hardpoint.
Chisel out with thin chisel, or anything - sharpened screwdriver?
cheers
Jacob
normanwisdom wrote:
> Rick Hughes wrote:
>> I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood), and these
>> are structural posts for a car port & garage.
>>
>> The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
>> proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide, and
>> they are then are through bolted to it.
>>
>> Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not to
>> good.
>>
>>
>> The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have had
>> galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on average.
>>
>> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
>> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
>> perhaps 9mm.
>> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ... but
>> it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm wide.
>> I have a hand held router.
>>
>> Any other suggestions ?
>>
>> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>>
>>
>> Rick
> Mark it with a mortice guage or if you haven't got one something else -
> pencil?
> Cut it with a sharp handsaw - e.g. new cheapo hardpoint.
> Chisel out with thin chisel, or anything - sharpened screwdriver?
>
> cheers
> Jacob
>
Drill through first with 9mm drill, then handsaw the slot out.
Whichever tool you use, I would first drill a through-hole where the
slot will stop. I'd drill it half way from either side because it will
never emerge in the right spot otherwise (unless you have very regular
timber and a pedestal drill). Drilling the hole somewhat oversize e.g.
20mm will mean any inaccuracy in the slot meeting the hole will be much
less obvious.
I'd cut the slot as two parallel cuts up to the drilled hole. Best
possible tool is a bandsaw, a fairly hefty one. Failing that a handheld
circular saw, 2 parallel cuts on each side - then handsaw the
remainder. Remember your timber may be far from square or of constant
dimensions, so a single deep cut will produce the best result. As
others have said, for 5 posts in softwood, handcutting with a new
hardpoint ripsaw isn't that bad - even without precuts with a circular
saw.
Stuart wrote:
> On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 18:04:42 +0100, "Rick Hughes" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >"Stuart" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >news:[email protected]...
> >> On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 13:58:01 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <[email protected]> wrote:
> >
> >> I suppose hiring a bandsaw for just 5 posts is overkill.. ?
> >
> >Don't know why I did not think of a bandsaw .. my neighbour has one ...
> >maybe this is the solution (unless somebody else has a neat idea)
> >
>
> Cant see how you'll get anyhting neater (and cheaper) than a neighbours bandsaw
> .Go for it .
> Just make sure the posts are guided accurately and make sure you stop the cut at
> the proper place .
>
>
> Stuart .
Farkin ell, basically if you can't do it with any of the solutions
offered yer fucked anyway and I'd suggest don't bother just abandon the
whole tedious project.
cheers
Norman
On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 16:00:13 +0100, Guy King <[email protected]> wrote:
>The message <[email protected]>
>from "Rick Hughes" <[email protected]> contains these words:
>
>> Any other suggestions ?
>
>If your local timber yard has a band saw, slip 'em a fiver to cut the
>slots for you.
Best idea so far rather than all that faffing around with a router,chainsaw ,
circ saw etc .
Stuart .
The message <[email protected]>
from "Rick Hughes" <[email protected]> contains these words:
> Any other suggestions ?
If your local timber yard has a band saw, slip 'em a fiver to cut the
slots for you.
--
Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.
Can you get hold of a chain saw?
"Rick Hughes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood), and
>these are structural posts for a car port & garage.
>
> The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
> proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide, and
> they are then are through bolted to it.
>
> Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not to
> good.
>
>
> The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have had
> galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on average.
>
> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
> perhaps 9mm.
> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ...
> but it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm
> wide.
> I have a hand held router.
>
> Any other suggestions ?
>
> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>
>
> Rick
>
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
rrh <[email protected]> wrote:
>> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
>> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm
>> thick or perhaps 9mm.
>> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides
>> ... but it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and
>> only 9mm wide.
>> I have a hand held router.
>>
>> Any other suggestions ?
>>
>> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>
> I'd use a circular saw, though it would have to be a fairly large one
> to cut to 75mm+ (probably at least a 235mm blade). I would clamp
> other bits of wood around the post accordingly and make careful use
> of the rip fence to make 2-3 passes as necessary, moving the rip
> fence fractionally for each.
I tend to agree - although a 10" blade is quite large for a hand-held saw.
There are lots of saw tables with 10" blades but I imagine these posts are
about 8' long - and I wouldn't fancy trying to maneouvre one over the blade
in an upright position!
An alternative may be to make 6 cuts with a smaller circular saw - 3 on each
side of the slot from both sides of the post and the bottom. This woudn't go
the full depth in the middle - so you'd have to finish off with a handsaw
and then use a narrow chisel to remove the remaining material.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Roger Mills <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> An alternative may be to make 6 cuts with a smaller circular saw - 3
> on each side of the slot from both sides of the post and the bottom.
> This woudn't go the full depth in the middle - so you'd have to
> finish off with a handsaw and then use a narrow chisel to remove the
> remaining material.
Another thought . . Do you have access to a band-saw? You'd need to support
the posts horizontally, and have some means of guiding them onto the blade.
You could then make 2 cuts defining the width of the slot, and chisel out
the bit in the middle.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!
Rick Hughes wrote:
> I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood),
> and these are structural posts for a car port & garage.
>
> The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
> proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide,
> and they are then are through bolted to it.
>
> Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not
> to good.
>
>
> The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have
> had galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on
> average.
>
> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm
> thick or perhaps 9mm.
> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides
> ... but it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and
> only 9mm wide.
> I have a hand held router.
>
> Any other suggestions ?
>
> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>
>
> Rick
20GBP? spent at a lumber yard is time and money well spent.
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite
(SNIP
> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
> perhaps 9mm.
> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ...
> but it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm
> wide.
> I have a hand held router.
>
> Any other suggestions ?
>
> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
Use your router with an edge guide to cut in from both sides to whatever
depth you can cut easily. Make several passes stepping down 5 or 6 mm each
pass. Then use a hand saw to cut the rest. A little chisel work at the top
to square it up.
Earl Creel
On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 18:04:42 +0100, "Rick Hughes" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"Stuart" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 13:58:01 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I suppose hiring a bandsaw for just 5 posts is overkill.. ?
>
>Don't know why I did not think of a bandsaw .. my neighbour has one ...
>maybe this is the solution (unless somebody else has a neat idea)
>
Cant see how you'll get anyhting neater (and cheaper) than a neighbours bandsaw
.Go for it .
Just make sure the posts are guided accurately and make sure you stop the cut at
the proper place .
Stuart .
On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 12:15:13 +0100, "Rick Hughes" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood), and these
>are structural posts for a car port & garage.
>
>The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
>proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide, and
>they are then are through bolted to it.
>
>Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not to
>good.
>
>
>The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have had
>galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on average.
>
>So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
>(i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
>perhaps 9mm.
>My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ... but
>it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm wide.
>I have a hand held router.
>
>Any other suggestions ?
>
>It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>
>
>Rick
>
I'm a wee bit confused .I can see that you just need to cut the one slot as the
other part of the plate abuts the back of the post but according to the diagram
the distance from the top of the plate to the support part joining the vertical
parts of the plate is 200mm but you are saying the slot only needs to be 75mm
deep . ??
Stuart
On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 13:58:01 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <[email protected]> wrote:
>normanwisdom wrote:
>> Rick Hughes wrote:
>>> I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood), and these
>>> are structural posts for a car port & garage.
>>>
>>> The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
>>> proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide, and
>>> they are then are through bolted to it.
>>>
>>> Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not to
>>> good.
>>>
>>>
>>> The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have had
>>> galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on average.
>>>
>>> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
>>> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
>>> perhaps 9mm.
>>> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ... but
>>> it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm wide.
>>> I have a hand held router.
>>>
>>> Any other suggestions ?
>>>
>>> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick
>> Mark it with a mortice guage or if you haven't got one something else -
>> pencil?
>> Cut it with a sharp handsaw - e.g. new cheapo hardpoint.
>> Chisel out with thin chisel, or anything - sharpened screwdriver?
>>
>> cheers
>> Jacob
>>
>Drill through first with 9mm drill, then handsaw the slot out.
I suppose hiring a bandsaw for just 5 posts is overkill.. ?
Stuart .
> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
> perhaps 9mm.
> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ...
> but it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm
> wide.
> I have a hand held router.
>
> Any other suggestions ?
>
> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
I'd use a circular saw, though it would have to be a fairly large one to cut
to 75mm+ (probably at least a 235mm blade). I would clamp other bits of wood
around the post accordingly and make careful use of the rip fence to make
2-3 passes as necessary, moving the rip fence fractionally for each.
"Rick Hughes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have five 150mm x 150mm posts, (pressure impregnated soft wood), and
>these are structural posts for a car port & garage.
>
> The fixing for these is that there are base plates fixed to concrete,
> proving a 200mm T section steel upright onto which these posts slide, and
> they are then are through bolted to it.
>
> Pic on http://tinyurl.co.uk/pri5 if my power of description is not to
> good.
>
>
> The steel of the blade that they slide onto is 8mm plate which I have had
> galvanised ... just measured and it's 'about' 8.5mm thick on average.
>
> So at one end of each post I need to cut a slot right though the post
> (i.e.from one face to another on the centre line), either 8.5mm thick or
> perhaps 9mm.
> My only thought so far are to use a router, cutting from both sides ...
> but it's still asking a lot ... at least 75mm depth of cut and only 9mm
> wide.
> I have a hand held router.
>
> Any other suggestions ?
>
> It needs to be neat, straight, and square ended
>
>
> Rick
If you have to use that kind of base - use a skilsaw and finish with a
handsaw. Personally, I would not use that kind off base. I would some
thing else
http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/post-caps-bases_diy.html
Dave
"Teamcasa" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:rWMXg.1$qv6.0@trnddc06...
>
> If you have to use that kind of base - use a skilsaw and finish with a
> handsaw. Personally, I would not use that kind off base. I would some
> thing else
> http://www.strongtie.com/products/categories/post-caps-bases_diy.html
>
> Dave
As the plates had to be 8mm thick and structural calcs had to be provided
for this job, there is no option to use what you suggest - they look suited
for decks ... but not for full structural loading of a roof.
Also - I have already had these made - so money spent.
"Stuart" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 13 Oct 2006 13:58:01 +0100, The Natural Philosopher <[email protected]> wrote:
> I suppose hiring a bandsaw for just 5 posts is overkill.. ?
Don't know why I did not think of a bandsaw .. my neighbour has one ...
maybe this is the solution (unless somebody else has a neat idea)