This's been covered before. And people go on about using propane,
and what all. But I never saw this one before.
Not original with me, I just ran across it a day or so ago, but
seems excellent.
Take waxed paper, set the paint can on it, and cut out a circle
just the size of the can. Then set the circle in the can, right on top
of the paint. Put the top back on the can. Next time you want to use
the paint just peel the waxed paper circle off and toss it. I haven't
tried it yet, but would seem to be as effective as the fancy (read
expensive) gases and loads less expensive.
JOAT
Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> of the paint. Put the top back on the can. Next time you want to use
> the paint just peel the waxed paper circle off and toss it.
Sounds reasonable. I'm wondering if tin foil might accomplish the same
thing?
J T wrote:
> Tue, Jan 23, 2007, 2:14am [email protected] (Upscale) doth
> wondereth:
> Sounds reasonable. I'm wondering if tin foil might accomplish the same
> thing?
>
> I'm thinking tin foil wouldn't be near as easy to get flat.
>
>
>
> JOAT
> Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.
I use plastic wrap. You can get is right down on top of the paint, and
you can leave enough plastic wrap going up the edges to make it easy to
remove without getting paint all over your hands. Works like a charm.
Kerry
Tim Douglass wrote:
> Sorry Lew, I'm missing something here. Do you heat the paint? ???
Naw.
The reason paint cans skin over is the oxygen in the air that gets
trapped when you seal the can.
Remove the oxygen, no skinning.
Propane is heavier than air.
Simply point an unlit propane torch down into the can for a few
seconds, allowing propane to fill the space above the paint, then seal.
Lew
Tue, Jan 23, 2007, 2:14am [email protected] (Upscale) doth
wondereth:
Sounds reasonable. I'm wondering if tin foil might accomplish the same
thing?
I'm thinking tin foil wouldn't be near as easy to get flat.
JOAT
Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.
On Thu, 25 Jan 2007 19:52:00 GMT, B A R R Y <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Upscale wrote:
>>
>> Then go pick up one of the kits that they use when resealing open bottles of
>> wine. It's a common practise. No flammable material and it's designed for
>> replacing air with a heavier than oxygen gas.
>>
>
>
>The products are known as "Bloxygen" (woodworking stores) and
>"Winesaver" (wine shops).
>
>Bloxygen a.) works great, b.) is non-flammable, c.) may not be much more
>expensive per shot compared to propane purchased in small quantities,
>d.) per the label, is not for latex or water-based products.
>
>I'd guess the can actually contains argon.
Hmmm. Doesn't work for latex or water-based. That's interesting. Of
course I don't ever recall really having much trouble with latex
skinning over, it seems that the pigments settle out and you get a
layer of water on the top that pretty much keeps things liquid.
However, given my total CRS that keeps me from remembering to do even
what I have been trying to do in the past I doubt I'll adopt any new
approach.
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
I use aluminum foil, works great. It is hard to use in small quart cans
especially if they are more than half full.
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tue, Jan 23, 2007, 2:14am [email protected] (Upscale) doth
> wondereth:
> Sounds reasonable. I'm wondering if tin foil might accomplish the same
> thing?
>
> I'm thinking tin foil wouldn't be near as easy to get flat.
>
>
>
> JOAT
> Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.
>
Upscale wrote:
>
> Then go pick up one of the kits that they use when resealing open bottles of
> wine. It's a common practise. No flammable material and it's designed for
> replacing air with a heavier than oxygen gas.
>
The products are known as "Bloxygen" (woodworking stores) and
"Winesaver" (wine shops).
Bloxygen a.) works great, b.) is non-flammable, c.) may not be much more
expensive per shot compared to propane purchased in small quantities,
d.) per the label, is not for latex or water-based products.
I'd guess the can actually contains argon.
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message
> Simply point an unlit propane torch down into the can for a few
> seconds, allowing propane to fill the space above the paint, then seal.
I've got a mental picture of Bogart doing that, with a lit cigarette in his
mouth, while Bacall looks on ...
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/06/07
On 23 Jan 2007 07:14:36 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>
>J T wrote:
>> Tue, Jan 23, 2007, 2:14am [email protected] (Upscale) doth
>> wondereth:
>> Sounds reasonable. I'm wondering if tin foil might accomplish the same
>> thing?
>>
>> I'm thinking tin foil wouldn't be near as easy to get flat.
>>
>>
>>
>> JOAT
>> Bugrit. Millennium hand AND shrimp.
>
>I use plastic wrap. You can get is right down on top of the paint, and
>you can leave enough plastic wrap going up the edges to make it easy to
>remove without getting paint all over your hands. Works like a charm.
That's what I do - when I remember.
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"Tim Douglass" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >
> >Simply point an unlit propane torch down into the can for a few
> >seconds, allowing propane to fill the space above the paint, then seal.
>
> Now that you mention it, I seem to recall seeing a commercial product
> that had an inert heavier than air gas in it for that purpose.
Then go pick up one of the kits that they use when resealing open bottles of
wine. It's a common practise. No flammable material and it's designed for
replacing air with a heavier than oxygen gas.
On Tue, 23 Jan 2007 18:52:00 GMT, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>RE: Subject
>
>Propane.
>
>Simple.
>
>No mess.
>
>Have used it for years.
>
>Lew
Sorry Lew, I'm missing something here. Do you heat the paint? ???
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
On Wed, 24 Jan 2007 17:28:29 GMT, Lew Hodgett
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Tim Douglass wrote:
>
> > Sorry Lew, I'm missing something here. Do you heat the paint? ???
>
>Naw.
>
>The reason paint cans skin over is the oxygen in the air that gets
>trapped when you seal the can.
>
>Remove the oxygen, no skinning.
>
>Propane is heavier than air.
>
>Simply point an unlit propane torch down into the can for a few
>seconds, allowing propane to fill the space above the paint, then seal.
OK, that makes sense. Obviously no smoking while doing this...
Now that you mention it, I seem to recall seeing a commercial product
that had an inert heavier than air gas in it for that purpose. I'm
always a bit leery about flammable gasses floating around the shop. Of
course the plastic wrap blocks the air from the paint too.
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
"J T" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> This's been covered before. And people go on about using propane,
> and what all. But I never saw this one before.
>
> Not original with me, I just ran across it a day or so ago, but
> seems excellent.
>
> Take waxed paper, set the paint can on it, and cut out a circle
> just the size of the can. Then set the circle in the can, right on top
> of the paint. Put the top back on the can. Next time you want to use
> the paint just peel the waxed paper circle off and toss it. I haven't
> tried it yet, but would seem to be as effective as the fancy (read
> expensive) gases and loads less expensive.
Turn the can up side down.