Found out that the table saw insert that Delta supplied with my saw is
anything but flat. Might be the reason my WWII isn't giving me the cut
that I'd like. I'm going to look for a new insert. Does anyone have
recommendations on type/brand? I need to have a splitter in it as well
since I don't use the guard.
Thomas
Oh if my skills were up to par to make my own cutout. I figure I'd get
more frustrated trying to make my own than to buy the blank. Maybe I'll
try sanding the one I have. It can't make it any worse.
Ramsey wrote:
> Many of us cut one out of birch plywood, put some set screws in it
> (where the ones are in the original Delta insert), place in the hole,
> us ethe screws to level it, place fence just over the edge so that it
> does not contact the blade when you raise it, and SLOWLY raise the
> blade cutting you a zero clearance. Takes maybe 30 minutes. You don't
> even have to tap the holes; drill them close and screw the screws on
> in. I use the 3/8" plastic cutting board from Wal-Mart sometimes when
> I want a change.
>
>
> On Tue, 19 Aug 2003 15:49:11 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Found out that the table saw insert that Delta supplied with my saw is
>>anything but flat. Might be the reason my WWII isn't giving me the cut
>>that I'd like. I'm going to look for a new insert. Does anyone have
>>recommendations on type/brand? I need to have a splitter in it as well
>>since I don't use the guard.
>>
>>Thomas
>
>
Thomas wrote:
Group: rec.woodworking Date: Tue, Aug 19, 2003, 6:39pm From:
[email protected] (Thomas=A0Mitchell)
Oh if my skills were up to par to make my own cutout. I figure I'd get
more frustrated trying to make my own than to buy the blank. Maybe I'll
try sanding the one I have. It can't make it any worse.
******************************************************
I use the original insert to trace its outline on a blank piece of wood
of the desired thickness. Then I jigsaw it to the approximate shape
within 1/8" or so, I attach the insert to the blank with carpet tape
and use a router with a ball bearing edge trimming bit to shape the
blank. I usually make a few for future use. Another thought comes to
mind. Does your original insert have leveling screws in it?
Peace ~ Sir Edgar
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=
=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8=F8
What you say is very true. A zero clearance insert has been on the list
of things to get. I'll probably try to make one this weekend and if that
fails, buy one.
Brian D. LaVoie wrote:
> Sand if you must, but in my opinion you'd be better off hanging the stock
> insert on the wall as a permanent template and making or buying a zero
> clearance insert -- which I am assuming the stock Delta is not.
>
> IMHO, even if dead flat, that stock insert is still going to frustrate you
> with frequent tearout on all cuts as well as difficulties with thin rips.
>
> --
>
> Brian
> www.wood-workers.com/users/lavoie
>
>
> "Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Yep the original insert has leveling screws. Doesn't help when the
>>insert isn't flat though. I laid the insert on the saw table top, about
>>the flattest thing that I have in the shop, and it wobbles. The worst
>>part is right at the front. The process you described for making them is
>>great. I just read about cutting out a pattern in the same manner. Maybe
>> will try to make my own. First I'll try sanding the existing insert
>
> flat.
>
>>Thomas
>>
>>Sir Edgar wrote:
>>
>>>Thomas wrote:
>>>Group: rec.woodworking Date: Tue, Aug 19, 2003, 6:39pm From:
>>>[email protected] (Thomas Mitchell)
>>>Oh if my skills were up to par to make my own cutout. I figure I'd get
>>>more frustrated trying to make my own than to buy the blank. Maybe I'll
>>>try sanding the one I have. It can't make it any worse.
>>>******************************************************
>>>I use the original insert to trace its outline on a blank piece of wood
>>>of the desired thickness. Then I jigsaw it to the approximate shape
>>>within 1/8" or so, I attach the insert to the blank with carpet tape
>>>and use a router with a ball bearing edge trimming bit to shape the
>>>blank. I usually make a few for future use. Another thought comes to
>>>mind. Does your original insert have leveling screws in it?
>>>Peace ~ Sir Edgar
>>>øøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøø
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
I'll have to check, but I bought the thing two-three years ago, so I
suspect yes. Why'd it take so long to find out? Cause I didn't have a
good enough blade in the saw to worry about it.
Bay Area Dave wrote:
> is this thing out of warranty? if not just call Delta and they'll ship
> a new one pronto.
>
> dave
>
> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
>
>> Yep the original insert has leveling screws. Doesn't help when the
>> insert isn't flat though. I laid the insert on the saw table top,
>> about the flattest thing that I have in the shop, and it wobbles. The
>> worst part is right at the front. The process you described for making
>> them is great. I just read about cutting out a pattern in the same
>> manner. Maybe will try to make my own. First I'll try sanding the
>> existing insert flat.
>>
>> Thomas
>>
>> Sir Edgar wrote:
>>
>>> Thomas wrote:
>>> Group: rec.woodworking Date: Tue, Aug 19, 2003, 6:39pm From:
>>> [email protected] (Thomas Mitchell) Oh if my skills were up to par to
>>> make my own cutout. I figure I'd get
>>> more frustrated trying to make my own than to buy the blank. Maybe I'll
>>> try sanding the one I have. It can't make it any worse.
>>> ******************************************************
>>> I use the original insert to trace its outline on a blank piece of wood
>>> of the desired thickness. Then I jigsaw it to the approximate shape
>>> within 1/8" or so, I attach the insert to the blank with carpet tape
>>> and use a router with a ball bearing edge trimming bit to shape the
>>> blank. I usually make a few for future use. Another thought comes to
>>> mind. Does your original insert have leveling screws in it?
>>> Peace ~ Sir Edgar
>>> øøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøø
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
In rec.woodworking
Jim K <jkajpust@###ameritech.net> wrote:
I made mine out of scraps of Pergo flooring. Really nice and smooth and
easy to cut. I had a zero clearance I bought but I made one for my dado
from the pergo.
>I'm pretty much a newbie, but just made a couple of inserts last
>night. I bought a piece of 2' x 2', 1/4" oak plywood at Lowes for $5
>and cut out two strips on table saw, then trimmed them with a sabre
>saw finally finishing off with a sander. I'm going to coat them wth a
>little acrylic and will be ready to go. A new insert from Sears is
>about $17-19.
>
>On Thu, 21 Aug 2003 07:22:51 -0400, Thomas Mitchell
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>What you say is very true. A zero clearance insert has been on the list
>>of things to get. I'll probably try to make one this weekend and if that
>>fails, buy one.
>>
>
In article <[email protected]>,
jkajpust@###ameritech.net says...
> I'm pretty much a newbie, but just made a couple of inserts last
> night. I bought a piece of 2' x 2', 1/4" oak plywood at Lowes for $5
>
I make them out of cedar. A single 5' cedar fence board costs about $2
and will supply wood for several. Cedar is easy to shape and thickness.
Nothing wrong with the plywood, just offering another alternative.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
In article <[email protected]>, lramsey@cox-
internet.com says...
> Just asking , but I thought of that but then looked at and how easily
> they split and decided birch was more feasible. Does Cedar split
> easily?
>
> >I make them out of cedar. A single 5' cedar fence board costs about $2
> >and will supply wood for several. Cedar is easy to shape and thickness.
Well, I've only made about a dozen, because they last quite a while.
I've never seen one split. They will dent/gouge if you drop the saw
blade (or any other heavy piece of ...), but so would most materials.
Cedar does split easier than some woods, but in this application it
doesn't seem to. YMMV.
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
is this thing out of warranty? if not just call Delta and they'll ship
a new one pronto.
dave
Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> Yep the original insert has leveling screws. Doesn't help when the
> insert isn't flat though. I laid the insert on the saw table top, about
> the flattest thing that I have in the shop, and it wobbles. The worst
> part is right at the front. The process you described for making them is
> great. I just read about cutting out a pattern in the same manner. Maybe
> will try to make my own. First I'll try sanding the existing insert flat.
>
> Thomas
>
> Sir Edgar wrote:
>
>> Thomas wrote:
>> Group: rec.woodworking Date: Tue, Aug 19, 2003, 6:39pm From:
>> [email protected] (Thomas Mitchell) Oh if my skills were up to par to
>> make my own cutout. I figure I'd get
>> more frustrated trying to make my own than to buy the blank. Maybe I'll
>> try sanding the one I have. It can't make it any worse.
>> ******************************************************
>> I use the original insert to trace its outline on a blank piece of wood
>> of the desired thickness. Then I jigsaw it to the approximate shape
>> within 1/8" or so, I attach the insert to the blank with carpet tape
>> and use a router with a ball bearing edge trimming bit to shape the
>> blank. I usually make a few for future use. Another thought comes to
>> mind. Does your original insert have leveling screws in it?
>> Peace ~ Sir Edgar
>> øøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøøø
>>
>>
>>
>
"Ramsey" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Maybe if you have a horizonal belt sander you could flatten it on
> that. I still favor a birch 7-9 ply plywood zero clearance insert. I
> like the way the wood stands out instead of something red.
>
>
Depending upon the thickness you need, you can also use one of the
Pergos, Wilsonarts, et. al.
But how many times would it take to get a flat insert? :) Besides I've
had the saw a few years now. While I doubt that I bent the insert as
it's seldom out of the table, there's that chance. Actually its not
really bent, rather not flat due to manufacturing defect, imho. The
worst is that it's not flat at the start of the feed so either the board
has to be raised a little as it's first fed, or the rest of the plate
has to be recessed slightly.
Thomas
Bay Area Dave wrote:
> call Delta's tech support and ask for a new insert!
>
> Thomas Mitchell wrote:
>
>> Found out that the table saw insert that Delta supplied with my saw is
>> anything but flat. Might be the reason my WWII isn't giving me the cut
>> that I'd like. I'm going to look for a new insert. Does anyone have
>> recommendations on type/brand? I need to have a splitter in it as well
>> since I don't use the guard.
>>
>> Thomas
>>
>
Shop made inserts are a breeze to make if you have a router table and a
flush trim bit. Trace the stock insert on a piece of ply, and rough cut out
with a jig saw or bandsaw. Then double stick tape the stock insert to the
plywood cutout and using the flush trim bit cut an exact duplicate with the
bearing following the template.
If your set on buying on to get you working right away, take a look at the
link below. I have one of these on my saw in use with a WWII, and it works
great. Tearout is virtually non existent.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/showdetl.cfm?offerings_id=2071&objectgroup_id=4
07&catid=7&DID=6&sid=AF626
Watch the line wrap.
Good Luck.
--
Brian
www.wood-workers.com/users/lavoie
"Thomas Mitchell" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Oh if my skills were up to par to make my own cutout. I figure I'd get
> more frustrated trying to make my own than to buy the blank. Maybe I'll
> try sanding the one I have. It can't make it any worse.
>
> Ramsey wrote:
> > Many of us cut one out of birch plywood, put some set screws in it
> > (where the ones are in the original Delta insert), place in the hole,
> > us ethe screws to level it, place fence just over the edge so that it
> > does not contact the blade when you raise it, and SLOWLY raise the
> > blade cutting you a zero clearance. Takes maybe 30 minutes. You don't
> > even have to tap the holes; drill them close and screw the screws on
> > in. I use the 3/8" plastic cutting board from Wal-Mart sometimes when
> > I want a change.
> >
> >
> > On Tue, 19 Aug 2003 15:49:11 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >
> >
> >>Found out that the table saw insert that Delta supplied with my saw is
> >>anything but flat. Might be the reason my WWII isn't giving me the cut
> >>that I'd like. I'm going to look for a new insert. Does anyone have
> >>recommendations on type/brand? I need to have a splitter in it as well
> >>since I don't use the guard.
> >>
> >>Thomas
> >
> >
>
call Delta's tech support and ask for a new insert!
Thomas Mitchell wrote:
> Found out that the table saw insert that Delta supplied with my saw is
> anything but flat. Might be the reason my WWII isn't giving me the cut
> that I'd like. I'm going to look for a new insert. Does anyone have
> recommendations on type/brand? I need to have a splitter in it as well
> since I don't use the guard.
>
> Thomas
>
Many of us cut one out of birch plywood, put some set screws in it
(where the ones are in the original Delta insert), place in the hole,
us ethe screws to level it, place fence just over the edge so that it
does not contact the blade when you raise it, and SLOWLY raise the
blade cutting you a zero clearance. Takes maybe 30 minutes. You don't
even have to tap the holes; drill them close and screw the screws on
in. I use the 3/8" plastic cutting board from Wal-Mart sometimes when
I want a change.
On Tue, 19 Aug 2003 15:49:11 -0400, Thomas Mitchell <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Found out that the table saw insert that Delta supplied with my saw is
>anything but flat. Might be the reason my WWII isn't giving me the cut
>that I'd like. I'm going to look for a new insert. Does anyone have
>recommendations on type/brand? I need to have a splitter in it as well
>since I don't use the guard.
>
>Thomas
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] says...
> Found out that the table saw insert that Delta supplied with my saw is
> anything but flat. Might be the reason my WWII isn't giving me the cut
> that I'd like. I'm going to look for a new insert. Does anyone have
> recommendations on type/brand? I need to have a splitter in it as well
> since I don't use the guard.
>
> Thomas
>
>
I second (third, fourth) the recommendation to may your own zero
clearance insert. A while back I decided to knock out half a dozen all
at once, production style. Took less than two hours. Now I have one
for a standard cross-cut blade, one for 1/2 inch ply, one for 3/4 ply
and 3 spares with no slot. I also drilled a couple 1 inch holes through
them to increase the effeciency of the dust collector.
Doug
--
use att.net as isp for functional addrress