I've built cherry face-framed kitchen cabs finished with 3 coats of
waterlox finisher/sealer. I would like to add a coat of wax. The guy
at woodcraft suggested a hard wax (which they were out of at the time).
I don't know nothin' 'bout hard waxing no babies.
What is the upside/downside of using hardwax instead of a paste wax?
>From what I can find on the web, the hard wax is going to be more
difficult to apply but will give me an additional degree of protection.
My current thought is to go ahead with a hardwax and then to use a
paste wax for periodic maint. Comments on this approach are requested.
Also recommendations for brands of hard and/or paste wax would be
appreciated.
~ Wyatt
Hi Larry,
I just posted that and was hoping for a response by tomorrow :)
The carcasses are UV prefinished maple ply so I think they are plenty
protected. I applied three coats of waterlox on the face frames before
attaching with pocket screws to the carcasses. The cabs are installed,
but he doors and drawer fronts are not done yet, so I should be able to
apply a couple more coats.
The finisher/sealer gave the level of sheen that I liked. I want the
wax for additional protection and a final coat that is easy to mantain.
You think I'm better off with two more coats of waterlox instead of
wax? What do you recommend for maintenance of waterlox over cherry in
a kitchen? Lemon oil/ Murphy's oil soap/...?
~Wyatt
"Wyatt" <[email protected]> wrote in news:1121634754.709817.131040
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:
> Hi Larry,
>
> I just posted that and was hoping for a response by tomorrow :)
>
> The carcasses are UV prefinished maple ply so I think they are plenty
> protected. I applied three coats of waterlox on the face frames
before
> attaching with pocket screws to the carcasses. The cabs are
installed,
> but he doors and drawer fronts are not done yet, so I should be able
to
> apply a couple more coats.
>
> The finisher/sealer gave the level of sheen that I liked. I want the
> wax for additional protection and a final coat that is easy to
mantain.
> You think I'm better off with two more coats of waterlox instead of
> wax? What do you recommend for maintenance of waterlox over cherry in
> a kitchen? Lemon oil/ Murphy's oil soap/...?
>
> ~Wyatt
>
>
Before you open that can of Briwax, you'll want to let the Waterlox
cure. At least a week, maybe longer. Heck, wait until after Labor Day.
The solvent & cleaner in Briwax, and many others, btw, will dissolve a
bit of that Waterlox you just worked so hard to apply.
I use this stuff regularly, and love it. But one of the hardest parts
for me is to be sufficiently patient with the finishing (mostly the
curing) schedule.
Pros use finishes that cure wuickly, but they have the tools and
expertise to get them right, and the booths to deal with the outgassing
and overspray. With simpler finishes, the cost is in time.
Patriarch
On 17 Jul 2005 14:12:34 -0700, the opaque "Wyatt"
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>Hi Larry,
>
>I just posted that and was hoping for a response by tomorrow :)
>
>The carcasses are UV prefinished maple ply so I think they are plenty
>protected. I applied three coats of waterlox on the face frames before
>attaching with pocket screws to the carcasses. The cabs are installed,
>but he doors and drawer fronts are not done yet, so I should be able to
>apply a couple more coats.
That's good. I wipe it on, so my coats are very thin. For a glossy
finish, 4-6 coats should do ya, no more frequently than one a day.
If weather permits, stack them outside in the heat to cure more
quickly and lose any smell. I MUCH prefer the smell of Waterlox over
Watco.
>The finisher/sealer gave the level of sheen that I liked. I want the
>wax for additional protection and a final coat that is easy to mantain.
> You think I'm better off with two more coats of waterlox instead of
>wax?
Absolutely. The varnish (if not the tung oil) is a better final coat
than wax. I use Jwax and 0000 steel wool to degloss my medium sheen
Original Waterlox; the wax just fills in the small scratches. AFAIC,
wax is not a functional finish, especially for a humid, greasy,
heavily-handled place like a kitchen cabinet door/drawer.
>What do you recommend for maintenance of waterlox over cherry in
>a kitchen? Lemon oil/ Murphy's oil soap/...?
I used lemon oil on my cabinets in the old house about twice a year.
I'd rub it on in the evening, let it sit overnight, and wipe if off in
the morning. If you use standard liquid kitchen cleaners (PineSol,
Lysol, Murphy's Oil Soap), that might be all you need. Remind your SO
that things such as Ajax and ScotchBrite pads shouldn't be used on the
finish.
- Woodworkers of the world, Repent! Repeat after me:
"Forgive Me Father, For I Have Stained and Polyed."
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On 17 Jul 2005 12:52:05 -0700, the opaque "Wyatt"
<[email protected]> clearly wrote:
>I've built cherry face-framed kitchen cabs finished with 3 coats of
>waterlox finisher/sealer. I would like to add a coat of wax. The guy
>at woodcraft suggested a hard wax (which they were out of at the time).
> I don't know nothin' 'bout hard waxing no babies.
I'd put on a couple more coats of Waterlox for the kitchen, Wyatt.
And make sure the insides are done, too. Humidity in there is a
killer.
>What is the upside/downside of using hardwax instead of a paste wax?
>>From what I can find on the web, the hard wax is going to be more
>difficult to apply but will give me an additional degree of protection.
Hard wax (like straight carnauba, right?) is a lot tougher to put on
and buff. Are you wanting this for a deglossing or what? Waterlox is
plenty tough enough to handle anything thrown at it all by itself, and
it needs no waxing. It's nice to work with, isn't it?
-
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