I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
ask questions.
Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
what roles for each
2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
rest of the room?
3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
up near the walls.
5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
river refreshed?
If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
contribute.
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
> of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
> down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
> purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
> fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
> out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
> I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
> I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
> it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
> ask questions.
>
> Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
>
> 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
> what roles for each
>
> 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
> rest of the room?
>
> 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
> my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
> angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
> the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
>
> 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
> what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
> when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
> up near the walls.
>
> 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
> river refreshed?
>
> If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
> five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
> contribute.
Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use
only", according to the product specs.
On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
> > of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
> > down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
> > purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
> > fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
> > out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
> > I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
> > I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
> > it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
> > ask questions.
>
> > Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
>
> > 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
> > what roles for each
>
> > 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
> > rest of the room?
>
> > 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
> > my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
> > angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
> > the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
>
> > 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
> > what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
> > when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
> > up near the walls.
>
> > 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
> > river refreshed?
>
> > If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
> > five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
> > contribute.
>
> Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use
> only", according to the product specs.
Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to
do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it
out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America
would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to
learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer.
On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
> > of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
> > down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
> > purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
> > fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
> > out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
> > I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
> > I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
> > it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
> > ask questions.
>
> > Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
>
> > 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
> > what roles for each
>
> > 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
> > rest of the room?
>
> > 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
> > my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
> > angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
> > the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
>
> > 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
> > what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
> > when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
> > up near the walls.
>
> > 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
> > river refreshed?
>
> > If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
> > five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
> > contribute.
>
> Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use
> only", according to the product specs.
Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to
do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it
out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America
would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to
learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer.
On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>
> > I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
> > of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
> > down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
> > purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
> > fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
> > out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
> > I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
> > I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
> > it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
> > ask questions.
>
> > Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
>
> > 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
> > what roles for each
>
> > 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
> > rest of the room?
>
> > 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
> > my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
> > angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
> > the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
>
> > 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
> > what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
> > when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
> > up near the walls.
>
> > 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
> > river refreshed?
>
> > If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
> > five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
> > contribute.
>
> Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use
> only", according to the product specs.
Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to
do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it
out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America
would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to
learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer.
On Apr 9, 10:25 am, [email protected] wrote:
> Oh, and don't hold me to those percentages above; they were changed to
> protect the stupid.
Ever hear the one about honey, vinegar, and flies? Or beggars/
choosers?
Lighten up, eh?
J
Yeah, sorry if I was a little too rough... some usenet posters can be
jerks and that starts to rub off on ya. Once I reread the statement
it doesn't sound too bad; I suppose I replied the way I did because I
wasn't asking whether I should or not but how to. Anyways, I already
contacted Bonakemi and told them I am a DIY and would like some
pointers. They gave me no guff and were very helpful including
sending me a PowerPoint presentation and a video on how to apply
Traffic. So consider this question answered.
On Apr 9, 5:33 pm, Tanus <[email protected]> wrote:
> [email protected] wrote:
> > On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> >>news:[email protected]...
>
> >>> I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
> >>> of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
> >>> down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
> >>> purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
> >>> fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
> >>> out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
> >>> I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
> >>> I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
> >>> it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
> >>> ask questions.
> >>> Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
> >>> 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
> >>> what roles for each
> >>> 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
> >>> rest of the room?
> >>> 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
> >>> my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
> >>> angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
> >>> the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
> >>> 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
> >>> what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
> >>> when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
> >>> up near the walls.
> >>> 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
> >>> river refreshed?
> >>> If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
> >>> five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
> >>> contribute.
> >> Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use
> >> only", according to the product specs.
>
> > Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to
> > do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it
> > out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America
> > would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to
> > learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer.
>
> In many respects, that's precisely what
> todd gave you: constructive response. If
> the mfgr recommends that only the pros
> do the job, then maybe that's what
> should be done. There are times when a
> man can't - or shouldn't - do a certain
> job. Maybe this is one of those times.
>
> Or maybe you're just going to flip me
> off too.
>
> Tanus
>
> --
> This is not really a sig.
>
> http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/
How does one become a professional - by asking questions and learning.
A professional was once in the same boat as myself. I know I have the
common sense, patience, and hunger to learn correctly so I'd rather
learn myself with the possibility of making a mistake than to pay a
professional without considering my own outcome and contemplating
trying. If I felt I was over my head I would have definitely called a
professional but I felt I could easily do it myself if I had
clarification on a few points. I hope you understand my point of
view. Thanks.
Hey thanks guys for your concerns and handling of the situation well.
The reason I asked for a detailed how-to was not because I needed one
but that it would give me the best basis to peck from for tidbits of
what I don't know. I also thought it would help aggregate the snippets
here and there out on different forums regarding applying Bonakemi
Traffic for the DIY.
I will let you know how it goes... here's one for learning from the
Father for with Him a little common sense and faith goes a LONG ways.
Hey thanks guys for your considerations and for handling this
situation well.
Just to clarify I didn't ask for a detailed how-to because I didn't
know anything about it but instead asked for a detailed how-to for
clarification and aggregation purposes. I felt a complete how-to
would allow me to peck at the parts I wanted clarification on and I
thought it would be nice to have one solid place to have the entire
how-to for DIY.
I'll let you know how it goes... here's one for learning from the
Father because with Him a little common sense and faith goes a LONG
way.
We just finished putting down two coats of the Traffic tonight -
everything went really well and looks great! I'm glad we got to
practice with the BonaSeal though as I learned techniques while using
that. I must say though that the BonaSeal is more difficult to put
down than the Traffic. BonaSeal is very thin and the river runs out
fast whereas the Traffic is quite thick and it glides so smoothly; it
seems to take a while for the river to run out. We're definitely
looking forward to sleeping in our beds again!
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> How does one become a professional - by asking questions and learning.
> A professional was once in the same boat as myself. I know I have the
> common sense, patience, and hunger to learn correctly so I'd rather
> learn myself with the possibility of making a mistake than to pay a
> professional without considering my own outcome and contemplating
> trying. If I felt I was over my head I would have definitely called a
> professional but I felt I could easily do it myself if I had
> clarification on a few points. I hope you understand my point of
> view. Thanks.
Here's the difference. A professional very likely had something you
don't...someone to show you how it's done. It's one thing to read about how
it's done...it's quite another to experience it in person. Personally, I
didn't find the risk/reward to be favorable. FWIW, if you choose to do it,
I hope it works out.
todd
[email protected] wrote:
> On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>
>>> I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
>>> of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
>>> down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
>>> purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
>>> fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
>>> out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
>>> I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
>>> I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
>>> it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
>>> ask questions.
>>> Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
>>> 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
>>> what roles for each
>>> 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
>>> rest of the room?
>>> 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
>>> my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
>>> angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
>>> the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
>>> 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
>>> what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
>>> when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
>>> up near the walls.
>>> 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
>>> river refreshed?
>>> If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
>>> five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
>>> contribute.
>> Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional use
>> only", according to the product specs.
>
> Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to
> do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it
> out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America
> would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to
> learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer.
>
In many respects, that's precisely what
todd gave you: constructive response. If
the mfgr recommends that only the pros
do the job, then maybe that's what
should be done. There are times when a
man can't - or shouldn't - do a certain
job. Maybe this is one of those times.
Or maybe you're just going to flip me
off too.
Tanus
--
This is not really a sig.
http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/
todd wrote:
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> How does one become a professional - by asking questions and learning.
>> A professional was once in the same boat as myself. I know I have the
>> common sense, patience, and hunger to learn correctly so I'd rather
>> learn myself with the possibility of making a mistake than to pay a
>> professional without considering my own outcome and contemplating
>> trying. If I felt I was over my head I would have definitely called a
>> professional but I felt I could easily do it myself if I had
>> clarification on a few points. I hope you understand my point of
>> view. Thanks.
>
> Here's the difference. A professional very likely had something you
> don't...someone to show you how it's done. It's one thing to read about how
> it's done...it's quite another to experience it in person. Personally, I
> didn't find the risk/reward to be favorable. FWIW, if you choose to do it,
> I hope it works out.
>
> todd
>
>
That was my point too. However, I was
surprised that after you had called the
company, they supported your decision to
go ahead and do it yourself. I'd gone to
the site and read the same instructions
that todd had and I figured they would
discourage anyone who wasn't trained to
do it themselves. As todd said, I hope
it works out for you.
Tanus
--
This is not really a sig.
http://users.compzone.ca/george/shop/
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Apr 8, 11:27 pm, "todd" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>
>>
>> > I'm nearing the end of my project which consisted of my manual labor
>> > of taking up old-growth douglas fir, planing it, and setting it back
>> > down along with some red oak for the kitchen. I have already
>> > purchased 7 gallons of Bonakemi Traffic, Bona Sealer for the douglas
>> > fir, and Bona DriFast stain for the red oak. If someone could help
>> > out I'd really appreciate a detailed how-to for applying the Traffic.
>> > I have the 18" applicators and some pads for cutting it at the sides.
>> > I've gleaned much from little blurps here and there about how to apply
>> > it but it would be great to have a condensed how-to where I may also
>> > ask questions.
>>
>> > Within the how-to, if specifically can be addressed:
>>
>> > 1) Minimum # of people for the job - if 2 what roles for each; if 3
>> > what roles for each
>>
>> > 2) Should I cut in the sides with the pad applicator before I do the
>> > rest of the room?
>>
>> > 3) How do I properly keep a wet edge and let's say my wet edge is to
>> > my right (I'm moving serpentine from right to left) is my applicator
>> > angled say -45-degrees perpendicular to the wet edge (high point of
>> > the applicator is on the wet-side and the dry edge on the low side).
>>
>> > 4) What's a good amount to have on the floor at a time (a river is
>> > what I read but that only tells me a little). What is the technique
>> > when approaching a wall, just a sweep? I'm concerned with it pooling
>> > up near the walls.
>>
>> > 5) Should a new river be put down for each pass? How often is this
>> > river refreshed?
>>
>> > If a detailed how-to could be written out that also addresses these
>> > five points I would be very thankful. Thanks for your time if you
>> > contribute.
>>
>> Apparently, this is why Traffic is "for trained experienced professional
>> use
>> only", according to the product specs.
>
> Thanks for your constructive response; just because I question how to
> do it does not mean that I don't have the common-sense to figure it
> out. I wise man seeks council; if everyone had your attitude America
> would be 90% stupid instead of 50% stupid. Sorry for wanting to
> learn; feel free not to post in this thread any longer.
Look, I'm all for figuring things out for my own, believe me. I've done all
kinds of my own work around the house, sometimes to my wife's chagrin
because it obviously takes me longer than a pro. I just don't think this is
the project to "figure it out" on. You're gonna get one shot to do this
correctly, unless you enjoy purchasing gallons of Traffic. And at nearly
$100/gallon, that may be one expensive lesson. You'll forgive me if I
doubted your ability to "figure it out" while you're asking for someone to
write you "a detailed how-to". Personally, I don't think every project
lends itself to DIY. This is one of the few I chose to farm out after
looking at it. I had a relatively small area (~350 sq ft). My guy put the
sealer and three coats of Traffic on for $300. I figured by the time I
bought the product (~$200+), the proper applicator, and the other sundries,
it really didn't make sense for me to do it myself if I was even thinking of
doing so. But hey, it's your money. Spend it however you wish.
todd