Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the
arm stripped the hole in the chair back.
Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again? A think
longer screw may cause trouble, since the chair back is curved. I was
also considering Plastic Wood...but I'm not sure.
Thanks!
Paul
"Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
> unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
> together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the arm
> stripped the hole in the chair back.
>
> Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again? A think
> longer screw may cause trouble, since the chair back is curved. I was
> also considering Plastic Wood...but I'm not sure.
If the wood is sufficiently sound, try drilling a hole and fitting .
plastic wall plug
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
Paul Wolsko <[email protected]> writes:
>Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
>unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
>together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the
>arm stripped the hole in the chair back.
What I have done in cases like this is to fill the hole with polyurethane
glue (Gorilla glue) and then drive the screw in. The poly glue will lock
the screw in tight in most cases.
Brian Elfert
Probably the best, but most difficult fix is to drill it out and glue
in a dowel then set the screw into the dowel.
The medium difficulty and quality of fix is probably to fill the hole
with some epoxy and then insert the screw once the expoxy starts to
set. Then tighten after 24 hours when the epoxy is fully cured. You
don't have to grease anything - if you want to remove a screw from
epoxy, just heat the end of the screw with a soldering iron - the heat
softens the epoxy.
The easiest is probaby to use a couple of toothpicks or slivers of
wood and wood glue to hold the loose screw.
Notice my liberal use of "probably." Everyone's experiences are
different.
On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 18:10:39 -0400, Paul Wolsko
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
>unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
>together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the
>arm stripped the hole in the chair back.
>
>Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again? A think
>longer screw may cause trouble, since the chair back is curved. I was
>also considering Plastic Wood...but I'm not sure.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Paul
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
>
> Body filler. I've done small and large patches on painted items
>
No, won't work. His screw is structural by the sound of it, body filler will
crack and give way in that situation.
Solution1: Drill out the hole to 1/4 or 3/8 or 1/2 inch or whatever and glue
the same size wood dowelling into the hole, drill a new pilot hole .....
Solution2: Don't bother. Stick a couple of broken off matches or toothpicks
into the stripped hole, after dipping them in glue, then put the screw back in.
It'll hold fine.
This is assuming that we are not talking machine screws with a metal insert, of
course! In THAT case, get a drill and a tap-and die set on to the job; oh, and
a chart with the exact pre-drilling sizes for the taps.
-P.
--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com
What I like to do in those cases in dip a wooden toothpick in some glue,
stick it in the hole and break it off. Repeat until the hole is filled. Wait
until the glue dries( or not as you wish), level the tops of the picks and
insert the screw. Should be a no brainer.
HTH,
Vic
"Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
> unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
> together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the arm
> stripped the hole in the chair back.
>
> Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again? A think
> longer screw may cause trouble, since the chair back is curved. I was
> also considering Plastic Wood...but I'm not sure.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul
Paul Wolsko wrote:
> Although it looks OK and went
> together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the
> arm stripped the hole in the chair back.
>
> Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again?
Epoxy and micro-balloons to form a fairing putty.
You don't indicate what size screw, so I will assume a #10-#12.
Drill out the damaged screw hole with a 1/2" drill all the way thru.
Tape the back of the hole shut with some duct tape.
Mix up some fairing putty to a runny ketchup consistency and pour into
the hole filling hole proud.
Wait at least 72 hours to insure a good cure.
Remove tape, drill out the fairing putty with a tap drill, then
reinstall screw.
When that chair returns to compost, that epoxy fairing putty will still
be there.
Trust me.
Lew
On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 03:24:19 GMT, "Max"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>That's generally the way I do it.
Which way was that?
Fill the hole with epoxy. Grease the screw and put it in, cleaning up the
excess glue. When the epoxy has set remove the screw, clean off the grease,
and put it back in tight. It should tighten up quite well. I've done this a
number of times. It's a pretty tough fix.
Tim Ellestad
"Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
> unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
> together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the
> arm stripped the hole in the chair back.
>
> Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again? A think
> longer screw may cause trouble, since the chair back is curved. I was
> also considering Plastic Wood...but I'm not sure.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul
I've had stronger results tightening screws into the epoxy formed threads
than into the end grain of a dowel.
Tim
"Bugs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Matches & toothpicks are a waste of time for joints that may be
> stressed. Drill the stripped hole out to 1/4" or 3/8" and glue in a
> dowel with waterproof glue. Reassemble the joint and you're done.
> Bugs
>
Or drill out, glue in an appropriate size piece of
dowel, then drill for the screw and put the screw
into the dowel
John
On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 07:57:33 +0100, "Jeff Gorman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Paul Wolsko" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
>> unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
>> together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the arm
>> stripped the hole in the chair back.
>>
>> Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again? A think
>> longer screw may cause trouble, since the chair back is curved. I was
>> also considering Plastic Wood...but I'm not sure.
>
>If the wood is sufficiently sound, try drilling a hole and fitting .
>plastic wall plug
Won't hold screws though.
"Guess who" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 18:10:39 -0400, Paul Wolsko
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again?
>
> Body filler. I've done small and large patches on painted items. An
> entrance door whose bottom corner had been chewed by wildlife [I live
> in an older self-renovated home.] I clamped some wood both sides of
> the door to hold the gunk, then mixed and applied it. A little later,
> remove the wood, rasped, scraped, sanded, then painted. Awesome.
>
> I live near a small village with a great bodyshop [the car kind], and
> can beg a baby jar full if I don't want to do a large area.
>
"Guess who" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 03:24:19 GMT, "Max"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>That's generally the way I do it.
>
> Which way was that?
Screw stripped.
Max
On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 18:10:39 -0400, Paul Wolsko
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again?
Body filler. I've done small and large patches on painted items. An
entrance door whose bottom corner had been chewed by wildlife [I live
in an older self-renovated home.] I clamped some wood both sides of
the door to hold the gunk, then mixed and applied it. A little later,
remove the wood, rasped, scraped, sanded, then painted. Awesome.
I live near a small village with a great bodyshop [the car kind], and
can beg a baby jar full if I don't want to do a large area.
On Wed, 19 Apr 2006 01:52:15 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Won't hold screws though.
You are likely right., and I'll have to take your word on that.
Still, I should have thought of it. However, what I did didn't need
screws. Sorry if this was a wasted suggestion, and hope it didn't
point anyone in the wrong direction.
>"Guess who" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 18:10:39 -0400, Paul Wolsko
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>> >Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again?
>>
>> Body filler.
Why not try using an insert like one of these:
http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView.cfm?Cat_ID=116&sid=AFM51
Paul Wolsko wrote:
> Can someone advise me? I've just put together an Adirondack Chair made,
> unfortunately, of cheap Indonesian wood. Although it looks OK and went
> together easily enough, one of the screws that attach the back to the
> arm stripped the hole in the chair back.
>
> Is there something I can use to fill the hole and start again? A think
> longer screw may cause trouble, since the chair back is curved. I was
> also considering Plastic Wood...but I'm not sure.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Paul
--
http://wuudchuck.com - Free Woodworking Plans