Jack wrote:
> On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 19:10:50 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >Then a phase converter to run it on.
>
> A phase or rotary converter will cost a few hundreds more. BTW, do you
> think by changing the original 16/3 about 8 ft long connecting power
> wire to a 12/3 will help? I got a gut feeling the under size power
> wire drawing excessive current and tripped the circuit breaker in the
> control panel?
>
An undersized wire will have too much resistance, thereby drawing LESS
current, not more. Because of the higher resistance, more power is
dissipated in the wire; therefore it heats up, eventually getting hot
enough to melt the metal (and/or start a fire) resulting in an OPEN
circuit, not a short circuit.
1.5 HP is a little over 1100 watts. At 220V, that's around 5 amps of
current. 16/3 shouldn't have any problem handling 5 amps. If you're
running it at 115V, you're closer to 10 amps, which is still okay for
16 ga. wire. Personally, I'd replace the wire with 12/3, but don't
expect it to solve your issue.
Josh
Andy Dingley wrote:
> TEFC is the crucial thing to look out for. Woodworking is a hard
> environment for dust.
TEFC is most-needed in a cabinet saw or hybrid where the motor is
enclosed with all the sawdust.
For something like a bandsaw/planer/jointer, it's probably overkill.
Even in a contractor's saw (with the motor hanging out the back) it's
not necessary (although probably nice). I had an ancient Rockwell saw
with an ODP motor on it. Seemed to work fine.
Chris
>I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
>16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.
>
>
This is the best idea yet. Upgrading the wiring to the motor
eliminates the electrical drag (resistance) caused by undersized and
overheated wires. Damn minimalistic engineers.
Pete
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:05:12 GMT, "Wilson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>The load on WW motors is generally very light. You didn't say what tool is
>involved, but any motor should be fine, assuming it doesn't have a
>manufacturing fault.
>Wilson
>"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two
years old. Yesterday, I used it continuously for about two hours and
it starts making a funny noise, the motor's thermal overload tripped
and quit. I opened the machine panel and smell the insulation, the
motor was warm, not hot. After it cooled down, it started with the
funny noise again and quit, this time my 20 amps panel's breaker
tripped.
I am thinking of replacing it with a 2hp Farm duty motor which is
cheaper than a Leeson's continuous cycle motor, or buy a Grizzle's
1-1/2hp motor. I really don't think the motor is kaput, maybe the
motor's insulation is bad or the power wire is a 8 ft,16/3 gauge.
Maybe, if I replace it with a 12/3 it may help? Any suggest or should
I go ahead and replace the 1-1/2hp motor with a Farm duty 2hp motor.
Thanks again.
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
<tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote:
>Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
>Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you
>well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
> they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.
Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.
.
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 19:10:50 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>Then a phase converter to run it on.
A phase or rotary converter will cost a few hundreds more. BTW, do you
think by changing the original 16/3 about 8 ft long connecting power
wire to a 12/3 will help? I got a gut feeling the under size power
wire drawing excessive current and tripped the circuit breaker in the
control panel?
>
>"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> [email protected] (Jack) writes:
>>
>>
>> [...]
>>
>> >
>> > It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two
>>
>> For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
>> motor.
>>
>> --
>> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
>> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
>> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
>> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
>
>
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 22:44:58 GMT, "Wilson" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face
>jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short and
>probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an
>insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious
>enough to short out and blow the breaker.
I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.
Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it.
>If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???
>
>My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads.
>Wilson
>
>"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
>> <tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
>>>Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve
>>>you
>>>well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
>>> they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.
>>
>> Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
>> I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
>> 16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.
>>
>>
>> .
>
>
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
> replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
> Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
> motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
> motor? Thank you.
Whichever motor you decide to use, make sure it is TEFC rated. (totally
enclosed, fan cooled). The 'totally enclosed' part ensures that sawdust
won't find its way into the innards of the more. 'Fan cooled' is
self-explanatory.
"Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
>> encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
>> warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
>> whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
>> will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
>> BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.
>
> The field could be rewound. A bad capacitor can be replaced. A bad
> thermal switch can be replaced. Bearings can be replaced. There really
> isn't much that can't be fixed.
> Jim
The question is, what can be done for less than the cost of another motor.
When I had to replace a 1 3/4 HP motor a while back, I called a place
looking for rebuilt units. They told me they don't even bother rebuilding
anything less than 10HP. Start capacitors and thermal switches might be
easily replaceable, but I wonder about getting a smallish motor rewound.
todd
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Jack) writes:
>
>
> [...]
>
>>
>> It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two
>
> For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
> motor.
>
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
That is certainly correct; however, 3 phase power is not available in the US
in homes. Businesses are very different.
Jim
I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face
jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short and
probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an
insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious
enough to short out and blow the breaker.
If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???
My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads.
Wilson
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
> <tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote:
>
>>Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
>>Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve
>>you
>>well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
>> they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.
>
> Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
> I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
> 16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.
>
>
> .
Jack wrote:
> On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
> <tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote:
>
>> Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
>> Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you
>> well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
>> they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.
>
> Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
> I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
> 16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.
>
>
> .
Good Grief! No wonder you have motor problems.
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 22:44:58 GMT, "Wilson" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>I don't think you could overload this motor in a jointer, unless face
>>jointing hard wood and doing it rapidly. Your 16 ga wire was very short
>>and
>>probably didn't make enough drop to be a big deal. I think you have an
>>insulation fault that caused the overheating and eventually got serious
>>enough to short out and blow the breaker.
>
> I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
> encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
> warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
> whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
> will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
> BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.
>
> Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it.
>
>
>>If it is not enclosed, you could have sawdust in the starting switch???
>>
>>My jointer is a 6" Sears with about 1/2-3/4 HP and never overloads.
>>Wilson
>>
>>"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>> On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 13:07:23 GMT, "Tom Gardner"
>>> <tom(nospam)@ohiobrush.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
>>>>Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve
>>>>you
>>>>well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
>>>> they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.
>>>
>>> Your site does have the motor I could use for the replacment.
>>> I will check with them tomorrow for the S/H after I replace the
>>> 16/3 wire to a 12/3 wire and test it again. Thanks you.
>>>
>>>
>>> .
>>
>>
>
The field could be rewound. A bad capacitor can be replaced. A bad thermal
switch can be replaced. Bearings can be replaced. There really isn't much
that can't be fixed.
Jim
Then a phase converter to run it on.
"Juergen Hannappel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> [email protected] (Jack) writes:
>
>
> [...]
>
> >
> > It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two
>
> For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
> motor.
>
> --
> Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
> mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
> Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
> CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23
The load on WW motors is generally very light. You didn't say what tool is
involved, but any motor should be fine, assuming it doesn't have a
manufacturing fault.
Wilson
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
> replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
> Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
> motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
> motor? Thank you.
>
> .
"Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> My Taiwan made 1-1/2HP, 110/220V motor died and I am thinking of
> replacing it with a Leeson's Farm Duty motor. Anyone knows if Farm
> Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines? Further is Grizzle's
> motor any good or where could I find a good deal for woodworking's
> motor? Thank you.
Farm duty motors are green, green is ok...stay away from blue motors.
Usually farm duty motors are totally enclosed drip proof and will serve you
well. Keep an eye on http://www.surpluscenter.com/
they have been a good, cheap supplier for me.
"todd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Jim" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "Jack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>> I was facing hard maple in rapid succession. In the past I had never
>>> encountered any problems. I did touch the wire and it was not even
>>> warm. I rotated the pulley and it rotates freely with no resistance
>>> whatsoever. Tomorrow, I will replace the wire and if it still trips, I
>>> will replace the motor. Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
>>> BTW, the jointer is a Yorkcraft.
>>
>> The field could be rewound. A bad capacitor can be replaced. A bad
>> thermal switch can be replaced. Bearings can be replaced. There really
>> isn't much that can't be fixed.
>> Jim
>
> The question is, what can be done for less than the cost of another motor.
> When I had to replace a 1 3/4 HP motor a while back, I called a place
> looking for rebuilt units. They told me they don't even bother rebuilding
> anything less than 10HP. Start capacitors and thermal switches might be
> easily replaceable, but I wonder about getting a smallish motor rewound.
>
> todd
>
I didn't mention costs because that subject is one for discussion between
the OP and the rebuilder. In all likelihood, though, it would be cheaper to
replace a motor with a bad field.
Jim
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 19:10:50 GMT, "CW" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Then a phase converter to run it on.
>
>A phase or rotary converter will cost a few hundreds more. BTW, do you
>think by changing the original 16/3 about 8 ft long connecting power
>wire to a 12/3 will help? I got a gut feeling the under size power
>wire drawing excessive current and tripped the circuit breaker in the
>control panel?
It sure isn't gonna hurt. 16ga is kinda light for that motor.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
Somebody asked:
>Any idea if the motor still salvageable?
Yes, but at what price.
I have been out of the motor business for over 25 years.
Back then anything below 10HP was automatically scrapped because you
could replace it for less than the rebuild price.
Would not surprise me if the cut off is 15HP these days.
Lew
On Sun, 11 Jun 2006 17:37:59 GMT, [email protected] (Jack) wrote:
>Anyone knows if Farm Duty motor is suitable for woodworking machines?
Depends on the maker. It's a weasel term that could mean anything they
want it to mean. Originally it meant light duty cycle, not continuous,
but better seals and bearing lubrication on the assumption of never
being serviced again. Somewhere between industrial and light duty.
TEFC is the crucial thing to look out for. Woodworking is a hard
environment for dust.
[email protected] (Jack) writes:
[...]
>
> It's a 1-1/2hp, 8" jointer. The machine is lightly used and over two
For such a tool the kind of motor to get is a 3-phase asynchronous
motor.
--
Dr. Juergen Hannappel http://lisa2.physik.uni-bonn.de/~hannappe
mailto:[email protected] Phone: +49 228 73 2447 FAX ... 7869
Physikalisches Institut der Uni Bonn Nussallee 12, D-53115 Bonn, Germany
CERN: Phone: +412276 76461 Fax: ..77930 Bat. 892-R-A13 CH-1211 Geneve 23