I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs.
Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
Any thoughts?
Larry
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
>Tom Dacon wrote:
>>> Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not
>>> know.
>>
>> Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
>> medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's
>> take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros -
>> qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations
>> that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their
>> Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.
>
>Well - as an appropriate response - fuck you and your white horse. Did you
>even read what I read? Apparently not and so we'll just let it die there.
>You should make yourself very comfortable in what you tree guy tells you.
>Good to go...
Way to drive another rational soul from the group. Good job mike.
In article <[email protected]>,
Gramps' shop <[email protected]> wrote:
> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric
> that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for
> the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs
> or limbs.
>
> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently
> has Poulans available. Here's an example:
> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Larry
I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
expensive.
--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes
In article <[email protected]>, Mike Marlow
<[email protected]> wrote:
> They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
> anymore. Or - shops to repair them.
Not too difficult to find up here in Western Canuckistan.
--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes
Well, that was a spirited discussion! I've decided on the Stihl MS170. Th=
anks for all of the good recommendations -- and for steering me away from s=
ome bad options. Buying this from a local outdoor equipment company at abo=
ut 30% off MSRP. It was his last one.
Larry
On Sunday, February 23, 2014 1:52:40 PM UTC-6, Gramps' shop wrote:
> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electr=
ic that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote f=
or the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found l=
ogs or limbs. =20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequent=
ly has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.=
org/tls/4346181306.html
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Any thoughts?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Larry
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 23:20:41 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Puckdropper wrote:
>
>>
>> Here's what I was thinking about:
>> http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#
>>
>> I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
>> website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good
>> idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
>Please,,. don't waste your money, There is no wa you can properly sharpen a
>chain in the way they describe. No matter - it only takes minutes to do it
>the right way without getting scammmed by this kind of crap. Go to a local
>chainsaw repair shop and have them show you how to do it. It will be so
>worth your time that you will be posting comments about it. A simple round
>file of the right size and a couple of strokes, and you can have a perfect;u
>sharpened chain. Really... Yoi can!
Have an 12V electric file takes me about ten minutes to do the 18" and
14" saws, about twenty minutes with a regular file. Also remember to
mark the starting tooth otherwise it takes all day.
Mark
On Tue, 25 Feb 2014 10:56:51 -0800, "Tom Dacon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
<snip>
>I love the SawStop - I'm half-owner of a fairly new one that I share with a
>boat builder friend, that we purchased to replace a Delta cabinet saw that
>took off one of his index fingers. I'm on the Festool bandwagon too, with a
>CXS drill, a jigsaw, and a random orbital sander - hope this admission
>doesn't bring the Festool haters out of the woodwork, too.
Not a Festool hater, by any means (track saw, router, and Domino) but
I'm not "getting" the drill or jigsaw. My wife even commented that
the ROS looks nice. ;-)
I admit that I don't use a jigsaw very much and I'm quite happy with
my Bosch the few times I need it. Why do you think the drill and
jigsaw are better than the myriad of others? I've asked others this
before but I just wanted your take. Thanks.
Gramps' shop wrote:
> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
> electric
> that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too
> remote for
> the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of
> found logs
> or limbs.
>
> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
> frequently
> has Poulans available. Here's an example:
> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>
> Any thoughts?
--------------------------------------------------------------------
For your infrequent use, I'd rent one.
Unless I miss my guess, storage space is at a premium in your shop.
Lew
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
> Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
> Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
> recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
> learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
> require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
> pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
> work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.
>
*snip*
I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are
they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you
something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a
hone?
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
Puckdropper wrote:
>>
>> I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount
>> on the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work?
>> Or are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge
>> and gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape
>> the edge like a hone?
>>
>
> Most of those work well in that they guide you to hold the proper
> angle. You can learn to do that yourself very easily without a guide,
> but the guides do indeed work in that regard. You don't run the chain
> through it though. You can't run a chain through any sharpening
> device. You still have to apply the sharpening to the cutter. That's
> usually with a file. And yes - you can indeed get the chain back to
> factory spec by sharpening it - either with a guide or without one.
> Forget the hone - you don't have to get all woodworker anal retentive
> when sharpening a chainsaw chain - or even woodworking tools for that
> matter...
>
Here's what I was thinking about:
http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#
I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good idea
but restricted to special products only offered by one company.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Morgans" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Gramps' shop" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
>> electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too
>> remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage
>> of found logs or limbs.
>>
>> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
>> frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
>> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>
> Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good compression,
> and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a bought when Huge
> hit in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly trimming. I guarantee I could
> go get it out of the shed, put fresh gas in it, and start it on the 4th or
> 5th pull. I don't know about the newer Poulans. As little as you sound
> like you use one, an old used saw sounds like what you need.
> --
I agree, I have an old Poulan that I bought around 1980. It will take about
6 pulls of the cord to get it started as it hasn't run for about 8 years,
but I am certain it will start, and then it will start on the first pull
after that. I am going to clean it up and sharpen it when this cold snap is
over, as I have a yard full of fallen tree limbs from the ice storm to get
rid of.
"BillinGA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not
> anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with
> Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if
> used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip
> over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the
> gas line and run them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point
> out starving an engine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so
> far. All start on first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time
> used.
I have learned to never use ethanol gas in single cylinder engines,
especially the small ones. I have a Honda baby tiller 4 cycle engine that
will NOT run with ethanol gas, but put premium ethanol free gas and it will
purr like a kitten. I now use it in my Honda 4 cycle string trimmer and it
starts instantly. I use it in my lawn mower, snow blower and other small
engines and they all seem to start and run better. It will be used in my
chain saw when spring comes -- with the addition of 2 cycle oil.
On 2/25/2014 12:56 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every
>> piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use.
>
> Yeah, I get that, Leon. In my original response to Gramps, I just
> mentioned that the local arborists are Husky users, merely as a point of
> comparison to offer a different viewpoint from mine as a satisfied Stihl
> user. Trying to be even-handed. If Stihl vs. Husky is a religious war in
> some quarters, I have no intention of dying in a ditch over it. In fact,
> the reason I've got a Stihl is that the nearest good chainsaw repair
> place was at the time a Stihl dealer; if it had been a Husky dealer I'd
> no doubt own a Husky instead.
I bought my Stihl cause my father-in-laws saw was so old and till
running but just not top notch. So I stuck with that brand considering
that brand has held up for so long. Of course it helps that the dealer
who also does the service on Stihls is about 2 miles from my house.
As far as chainsaws that is the only brand that they carry in that shop
but they do carry other brands of other implements.
>
> I love the SawStop - I'm half-owner of a fairly new one that I share
> with a boat builder friend, that we purchased to replace a Delta cabinet
> saw that took off one of his index fingers. I'm on the Festool bandwagon
> too, with a CXS drill, a jigsaw, and a random orbital sander - hope this
> admission doesn't bring the Festool haters out of the woodwork, too.
>
> One of the saws that my tree guys use is a very small and light Husky
> limbing chainsaw with about a 14-inch bar, that they use one-handed when
> they're up a tree. I lust after it, but it's a professional tool and
> priced to suit - about $600 or so - and there's no way that I could
> justify it for the occasional use I'd make of it.
>
> Tom
>
Tom doesn't Stihl have a small limbing saw for around $200?
I thought I seen one in my local dealer.
--
All the Best
Dale Miller
Tennessee
ASP since February 2005
Registered Linux User: #317401
Linux since June 2003
Registered Ubuntu User #26423
[email protected]
[email protected]
(cut the spam to reply)
VOTE TO REBUILD!
www.twintowersalliance.com
__
"Tom Dacon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.
>
> Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
> medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take
> a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified
> arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know
> about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I,
> or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.
>
> Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
> either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs?
>
> Tom
"Tom Dacon" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.
>
> Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
> medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take
> a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified
> arborists who have been in the business for two generations that I know
> about. They do this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I,
> or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.
>
> Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
> either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference to theirs?
>
> Tom
There is a possibility that a long time tree guy that has been unsung a
particular well known brand just may not know what might be best for an
occasional user. I own the top of the line SawStop TS. I would not assume
that the 120 volt contractors model would not serve an occasional user
well. I own several Festool power tools that I use on every job and again
would not assume that my experience would qualify me to recommend a
particular tool for an occasional user.
What might be a best but for a novice may not have any appeal at all to the
pro.
Festool makes and sells a $600 drill kit which I own and use. They also
produce a model for about half that price aimed at the budget minded user.
I'm not about to say that the cheaper model down grades the brand.
Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every
piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use.
On 23 Feb 2014 in rec.woodworking, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Dave Balderstone wrote:
>
>> I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
>> expensive.
>
> They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
> anymore. Or - shops to repair them.
Tractor Supply carries them in the US:
http://www.tractorsupply.com/content_landing-page_jonsered.html
I don't know about repair, though.
--
Joe Makowiec
http://makowiec.org/
Email: http://makowiec.org/contact/?Joe
Usenet Improvement Project: http://twovoyagers.com/improve-usenet.org/
Gramps' shop wrote:
> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs.
>
> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Larry
I have two Huskys and love them for the compression relief button.
Easier to pull and always start at 1-3 pulls. The reason I have two
is: After 12 or 13 years I buggered up the key in the flywheel. New
flywheels are about $100 so I opted to buy a new saw. Then I found a
used flywheel on Ebay for $15 and bought it. So now I have a 20
incher and a 18 incher for trimming.
I have had a Poulan and a Mac. Both had lightweight chains that had
to be re-tensioned every 15 minutes and both had starting problems
after about a year.
--
GW Ross
Some minds should be cultivated,
others plowed under...
> Gramps, I bought a Poulan around six or seven years ago, from a local
> hardware store/lumberyard because I thought that they would stand behind
> it if it gave me trouble. Which it did, right away. I could never get it
> working right, and neither could they. Took me a month to get my money
> back from them. So as far as I'm concerned, Poulan chain saws aren't worth
> a damn, and neither is that hardware store/lumberyard.
>
> I've got a medium-size Stihl now and am happy with it. The local tree guys
> tend to use Husqvarnas, but they say that they eat starter ropes. On the
> other hand, they start them a dozen times a day, and I start mine a dozen
> times a year.
>
> Tom
>
Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts.
Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've used
Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful 009, died
yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but I will miss it
nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the years and I look
after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist and a pro. The wood
burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit of timber to attend to.
Last week there were some tree surgeons working locally on a large weeping
willow that had toppled following high winds and flooding. About 100ft high.
Blocked a stream and a lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came
with a 130T capacity crane to assist!
I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a Husqvarna with a 48" bar.
He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his words, 'lost the
plot some years ago when they started concentrating on saws for hobbyists'.
Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now produce excellent saws for both
pro's and hobbyists. I think this a bit of a shame as Stihl led the market
for years, but times change. Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws
through innovation.
I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly look
at what Husqvarna might have to offer.
Good luck.
Nick.
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 22:21:41 -0600, Dale Miller
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Sorry Ed didn't mean to send this to you.
>Stupid Thunderbird changed there reply to button
>
No harm done.
>
>Husqvarna was the most recent sell out to the conglomerate.
>
>Buy a Stihl you won't be sorry.
Sad to hear that. You can be sure everything will be cheapened up and
they will ride the good reputation of the past as long as possible.
Thanks, Mike. The dealer seems like a good guy and promised to show me how to properly start and maintain it, including sharpening the chain.
>
> >
>
>
>
> Good for you Larry. That is a very good saw for light weight work and you
>
> will not be disappointed in it at all. If you want to use it beyond it's
>
> real design intent, just remember to go slow and easy - it will do it, just
>
> don't try to push it hard at that point. If I can offer any user based
>
> advise on that saw, just give a yell. But - I think you're really going to
>
> love that saw. It's a great little saw.
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> -Mike-
>
> [email protected]
On 2/23/2014 2:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs or limbs.
>
> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example: http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Larry
>
That is because owners of Stihl and Husky don't sell them. Poulan
owners are giving up or upgrading to Stihl.
I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not anythi=
ng with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with Stabil or li=
ke additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if used infrequent=
ly. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip over...large 4 s=
trokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the gas line and run=
them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point out starving an e=
ngine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on =
first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time used.
On 2/23/2014 2:19 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 2/23/2014 2:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
>> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
>> electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back
>> too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take
>> advantage of found logs or limbs.
>>
>> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
>> frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
>> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Larry
>>
>
> That is because owners of Stihl and Husky don't sell them. Poulan
> owners are giving up or upgrading to Stihl.
Sorry Ed didn't mean to send this to you.
Stupid Thunderbird changed there reply to button
Exactly I wouldn't sell my Stihl for anything.
Buy a Stihl and you won't have a need for any other saw.
I guarantee it.
I have my father-in-laws old Stihl and it is still a pretty good saw.
Of course it is over 20 years old.
So we purchased a new one about 5 years ago and never looked back.
I use it for firewood so it has to be a good saw and after 2 craftsman's
that didn't last more than 2 years we decided we needed a good saw if we
were going to cut our own firewood.
So trust me buy a Stihl as there the only company that isn't owned by a
congolermate like all the rest of the chainsaw companies out there.
Go look at Poulan, Craftsman, Husqvarna, etc and tell me they don't look
the same, that is because there all made by the same company now and
they all suck.
Husqvarna was the most recent sell out to the conglomerate.
Buy a Stihl you won't be sorry.
--
All the Best
Dale Miller
Tennessee
ASP since February 2005
Registered Linux User: #317401
Linux since June 2003
Registered Ubuntu User #26423
[email protected]
[email protected]
(cut the spam to reply)
VOTE TO REBUILD!
www.twintowersalliance.com
__
On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 11:07:55 -0800, "Tom Dacon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>>Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.
>
>Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal
>for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute
>for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who
>have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do
>this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that
>matter, to tell them otherwise.
>
>Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
>either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference
>to theirs?
>
>Tom
You could argue this point into the ground. I'm in Duvall,Wa where
there is a strong Stihl dealer which makes a big diffence. I'm still
running an o32 with a skip tooth chain on 24" bar after over 30 years,
I do some work for an aroboris and he runs all Stihl, again I think,
it's Bill at Carquest that is responsible. Ive dropped a tool off for
repair and been called to get it by the time I got home. We all get
to be a dumb ass sometimes. My point is a lot of times the best tool
is the one with the best support where you are.
MikeM
"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric
that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for
the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs
or limbs.
Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently
has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
Any thoughts?
Gramps, I bought a Poulan around six or seven years ago, from a local
hardware store/lumberyard because I thought that they would stand behind it
if it gave me trouble. Which it did, right away. I could never get it
working right, and neither could they. Took me a month to get my money back
from them. So as far as I'm concerned, Poulan chain saws aren't worth a
damn, and neither is that hardware store/lumberyard.
I've got a medium-size Stihl now and am happy with it. The local tree guys
tend to use Husqvarnas, but they say that they eat starter ropes. On the
other hand, they start them a dozen times a day, and I start mine a dozen
times a year.
Tom
"Gramps' shop" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
> electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too
> remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage
> of found logs or limbs.
>
> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
> frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good compression,
and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a bought when Huge hit
in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly trimming. I guarantee I could go
get it out of the shed, put fresh gas in it, and start it on the 4th or 5th
pull. I don't know about the newer Poulans. As little as you sound like
you use one, an old used saw sounds like what you need.
--
Jim in NC
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com
Morgans wrote:
>
> Go to the local pawn shop, and find you an old saw with good
> compression, and ask them to start it up for you. I have a Poulan a
> bought when Huge hit in (89 I think) and I use it for mainly
> trimming. I guarantee I could go get it out of the shed, put fresh
> gas in it, and start it on the 4th or 5th pull. I don't know about
> the newer Poulans. As little as you sound like you use one, an old
> used saw sounds like what you need.
Those were the good old days for Poulan. Today, they are what is considered
a 50 hour saw. Pure junk. For the very occassional user, it might be saw
enough but if you'd plan on using it every year - bad money spent. I'm a
Stihl guy through and through, so that would be my recommendation, but
that's me.
Rather than going the pawn shop route, I'd suggest going to a local shop
that sells and maintains chainsaws. Not to a big box store or to a store
that simply sells them. You want to go to the guys that actually fix them
right there at their shop. They'll give you the honest scoop on what's good
and what isn't but more importantly, they usually have some pretty good
deals on trade-ins. Plus, you've got a place that will stand behind their
saw.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Dave Balderstone wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> Gramps' shop <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
>> electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back
>> too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take
>> advantage of found logs or limbs.
>>
>> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
>> frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
>> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>>
>> Any thoughts?
>>
>> Larry
>
> I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
> expensive.
They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
anymore. Or - shops to repair them.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 2/23/2014 12:52 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the
back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw
to take advantage of found logs or limbs.
>
> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much.
CL frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Larry
>
I cut about 12 cords a year. My pardner just bought the Husky 460 with
a 24" bar. I have a Husky 435 with a 16" bar. I will be getting the
identical Husky, or a Stihl, (I think 391) with the 24" bar.
Point is, buy quality and cry only once. Stihl or Husky will do the
work. Both are serviceable, with parts easily available.
Main things are basics: Drain gas when not in use. Keep adjusted.
Learn how to sharpen with simply a file, no fancy devices, and that
includes electric sharpeners. Get a stump clamp, learn how to use it,
and you will be able to keep it sharp quickly.
If you want a saw that will start right up, Stihl or Husky is your
ticket, and take those precautions. Nothing like going out there,
adding a little fresh gas, and getting the job done, and not jacking
with it every time you want to use it. My 345 came in a package deal
for around $250. The $460 will be about $400, but we will be doing
heavier work. We fell trees up to 18" diameter, and may cut four cords
a day.
You get what you pay for. Buy a good one, and take care of it right.
Ignore all the tales of Poulans and Macs that have lasted decades. I'm
sure there are some Pintos and Vegas still on the road, too. But if you
want something reliable that just runs, and you don't spend a lot of
time cussing at, Stihl or Husky.
Get an air gun, and clean it good after a good use so the pitch doesn't
harden in the working parts. Put it away clean, and it's ready to go
next time you need it. Put it away gummy, and the gum will set, or the
gas will turn to varnish, and you will have fun getting it going
properly next time.
Just MHO from ten years of jacking with these things.
You get what you pay for, and anything less than Stihl or Husky is junk.
The cost difference between them is not that great when you are
talking of a quality tool.
Steve
SteveB wrote:
> I cut about 12 cords a year. My pardner just bought the Husky 460
> with a 24" bar. I have a Husky 435 with a 16" bar. I will be
> getting the identical Husky, or a Stihl, (I think 391) with the 24"
> bar.
> Point is, buy quality and cry only once. Stihl or Husky will do the
> work. Both are serviceable, with parts easily available.
>
> Main things are basics: Drain gas when not in use. Keep adjusted.
> Learn how to sharpen with simply a file, no fancy devices, and that
> includes electric sharpeners. Get a stump clamp, learn how to use it,
> and you will be able to keep it sharp quickly.
>
> If you want a saw that will start right up, Stihl or Husky is your
> ticket, and take those precautions. Nothing like going out there,
> adding a little fresh gas, and getting the job done, and not jacking
> with it every time you want to use it. My 345 came in a package deal
> for around $250. The $460 will be about $400, but we will be doing
> heavier work. We fell trees up to 18" diameter, and may cut four
> cords a day.
>
> You get what you pay for. Buy a good one, and take care of it right.
>
> Ignore all the tales of Poulans and Macs that have lasted decades. I'm
> sure there are some Pintos and Vegas still on the road, too. But
> if you want something reliable that just runs, and you don't spend a
> lot of time cussing at, Stihl or Husky.
>
> Get an air gun, and clean it good after a good use so the pitch
> doesn't harden in the working parts. Put it away clean, and it's
> ready to go next time you need it. Put it away gummy, and the gum
> will set, or the gas will turn to varnish, and you will have fun
> getting it going properly next time.
>
> Just MHO from ten years of jacking with these things.
>
> You get what you pay for, and anything less than Stihl or Husky is
> junk. The cost difference between them is not that great when you are
> talking of a quality tool.
>
Well spoken sir! In particular, your closing comment. Nothing more to say.
(Except that real men buy Stihl...)
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw.
House demolition to light tree falling.
Brush work, carving.......
Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation.
A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must, little
grease gun for bearing.....
Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean......
And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped.
On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and
dangerous.....
Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types.....
professional that tree fallers use.
Good cutting.
john
"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough electric
that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back too remote for
the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take advantage of found logs
or limbs.
Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL frequently
has Poulans available. Here's an example:
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
Any thoughts?
Larry
jloomis wrote:
> I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw.
> House demolition to light tree falling.
> Brush work, carving.......
For the VERY occasional homeowner use, I agree that Echo is a good buy.
Pick it up at a big box store. It will be far better quality than any other
offerings they have. But - it's an occasional use saw. Just keep that in
mind and all should be well.
> Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation.
Only if it is top mounted grip. To use any traditional grip chainsaw in a
one handed manner is nothing short of stupidity. There is no control over
the bar in this configuration.
> A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must,
> little grease gun for bearing.....
> Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean......
> And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped.
Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too
many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize
when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it
properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a
couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a
chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes
most people.
>
> On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and
> dangerous.....
Such a shame... A Stihl would make you so much happier...
> Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types.....
> professional that tree fallers use.
Except for the very occasional user, I so agree with you! For someone who
really wants to use a chainsaw - there is no such thing as a "homeowner"
version. Get over it. Accept it. Quit arguing/thinking about it. Just
buy a good saw. It won't even cost much more than the junk that homeowners
think they're getting a good deal on. Spend the extra $50-$100 and get a
saw ferchristsakes...
Did I say that right?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Dave Balderstone wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, Mike Marlow
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
>> anymore. Or - shops to repair them.
>
> Not too difficult to find up here in Western Canuckistan.
Around here it's mostly Tractor Supply. I don't know if those are models
that are spec'd for TS, or if they are full blown John's. Either way, the
selection seems to be limited to the smaller models. Certainly not what one
used to expect to see in their available lineup.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
woodchucker wrote:
> On 2/23/2014 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> Dave Balderstone wrote:
>>> In article <[email protected]>,
>>> Gramps' shop <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
>>>> electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the
>>>> back too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to
>>>> take advantage of found logs or limbs.
>>>>
>>>> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
>>>> frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
>>>> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>>>>
>>>> Any thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> Larry
>>>
>>> I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
>>> expensive.
>>
>> They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
>> anymore. Or - shops to repair them.
>>
> Tractor supply sells Jonsereds, but they don't offer service.
>
> Buy a Stihl.
Correct!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Nick wrote:
> Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts.
> Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've
> used Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful
> 009, died yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but
> I will miss it nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the
> years and I look after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist
> and a pro. The wood burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit
> of timber to attend to. Last week there were some tree surgeons
> working locally on a large weeping willow that had toppled following
> high winds and flooding. About 100ft high. Blocked a stream and a
> lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came with a 130T
> capacity crane to assist! I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a
> Husqvarna with a 48"
> bar. He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his
> words, 'lost the plot some years ago when they started concentrating
> on saws for hobbyists'. Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now
> produce excellent saws for both pro's and hobbyists. I think this a
> bit of a shame as Stihl led the market for years, but times change.
> Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws through innovation.
> I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly
> look at what Husqvarna might have to offer.
> Good luck.
> Nick.
I think that Husky (prior to the sell out), was a viable competitor to
Stihl. I am a Stihl guy and there are plenty of Husky guys out there.
Never really did see where one was really better than the other. Both great
saws. I would though, strenuously disagree with your tree guy. Don't know
what he's smoking, but to this day Stihl still makes some of the best pro
model saws available and that is proven by the number of pros that still use
them. I think he was just talking shit. Even their homeowner line is far
better than competing products. Still Stihl quality. Not pro quality, but
way better than typical homeowner quality junk that's out there in the
market. My thoughts on the quality of Stihl are not just based on my
preference for that saw but are hugely influenced by my local dealer who
sells both Husky and Stihl, and repairs everything out there. Talk to one
of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
>Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.
Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold medal
for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's take a minute
for the applause to die down). These guys are pros - qualified arborists who
have been in the business for two generations that I know about. They do
this every day, and they like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that
matter, to tell them otherwise.
Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in preference
to theirs?
Tom
Tom Dacon wrote:
>> Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not
>> know.
>
> Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
> medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's
> take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros -
> qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations
> that I know about. They do this every day, and they like their
> Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell them otherwise.
Well - as an appropriate response - fuck you and your white horse. Did you
even read what I read? Apparently not and so we'll just let it die there.
You should make yourself very comfortable in what you tree guy tells you.
Good to go...
Broad jumping to a conclusionj? You really cannot read and comprehend - can
you? Maybe you should make another run at it. Just as many of your "pros -
qualified arborists who have been in the business for two generations" favor
Stihl. But don't let that little thing bother you at all. Just continue to
ignore the content of what was really said. And after that - go buy
whatever you think you need.
>
> Come to think of it, I don't know anything about your qualifications,
> either. Any special reason why I should listen to your opinion in
> preference to theirs?
>
You might just want to look at the advice that was offered. Or not. I
don't really care. As far as I am concerned - with your attitude - you can
go sit on it, and buy what ever you want. I really don't care.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Puckdropper wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>> Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
>> Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
>> recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
>> learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
>> require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
>> pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
>> work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.
>>
> *snip*
>
> I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
> the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or
> are they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and
> gives you something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the
> edge like a hone?
>
Most of those work well in that they guide you to hold the proper angle.
You can learn to do that yourself very easily without a guide, but the
guides do indeed work in that regard. You don't run the chain through it
though. You can't run a chain through any sharpening device. You still
have to apply the sharpening to the cutter. That's usually with a file.
And yes - you can indeed get the chain back to factory spec by sharpening
it - either with a guide or without one. Forget the hone - you don't have
to get all woodworker anal retentive when sharpening a chainsaw chain - or
even woodworking tools for that matter...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Scott Lurndal wrote:
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> writes:
>> Tom Dacon wrote:
>>>> Talk to one of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not
>>>> know.
>>>
>>> Well, Mike, I'd like to congratulate you on winning the Olympic gold
>>> medal for the broad jump to a conclusion, about my tree guys (let's
>>> take a minute for the applause to die down). These guys are pros -
>>> qualified arborists who have been in the business for two
>>> generations that I know about. They do this every day, and they
>>> like their Huskys, and who am I, or you for that matter, to tell
>>> them otherwise.
>>
>> Well - as an appropriate response - fuck you and your white horse.
>> Did you even read what I read? Apparently not and so we'll just let
>> it die there. You should make yourself very comfortable in what you
>> tree guy tells you. Good to go...
>
> Way to drive another rational soul from the group. Good job mike.\
Another rationaly soul? Perhaps you did not read his opening statement? Or
my previous response which solicited his reply above? You and your white
horse also.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Puckdropper wrote:
>
> Here's what I was thinking about:
> http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#
>
> I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
> website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good
> idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company.
>
> Puckdropper
Please,,. don't waste your money, There is no wa you can properly sharpen a
chain in the way they describe. No matter - it only takes minutes to do it
the right way without getting scammmed by this kind of crap. Go to a local
chainsaw repair shop and have them show you how to do it. It will be so
worth your time that you will be posting comments about it. A simple round
file of the right size and a couple of strokes, and you can have a perfect;u
sharpened chain. Really... Yoi can!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
jloomis wrote:
> I use an Echo 14" for a rough and ready all around chain saw.
> House demolition to light tree falling.
> Brush work, carving.......
For the VERY occasional homeowner use, I agree that Echo is a good buy.
Pick it up at a big box store. It will be far better quality than any other
offerings they have. But - it's an occasional use saw. Just keep that in
mind and all should be well.
I use the echo all the time in the brush and for tearing out remodel work,
taking decks out, etc.
It is a good all around home/bus. saw.
> Lightweight, inexpensive, one hand operation.
Only if it is top mounted grip. To use any traditional grip chainsaw in a
one handed manner is nothing short of stupidity. There is no control over
the bar in this configuration.
Many fallers use these for small branch removal.....and one handed....
Yes, experience helps, and yes, one has to be very cautious of kick back.
2 hands are always better....always.
> A sharp chain is is important of course....Good fuel mix a must,
> little grease gun for bearing.....
> Saw cover for chain.....keep air filter clean......
> And a chain file and handy small guide.....easy to keep prepped.
Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion. Too
many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to recognize
when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to learn how to do it
properly from someone who knows, does not even require a guide, and only a
couple of oops' before you're really pretty good at being able to keep a
chain sharp enough to do good work. But - for some reason, this escapes
most people.
>
> On the larger jobs, I use a Husqavarna. High powered, fast, and
> dangerous.....
Such a shame... A Stihl would make you so much happier...
Not sure why Stihl would make me happier....
I guess it is like a football team....
]One always prefers their brand?
> Not a home owners model either....They make 2 quality types.....
> professional that tree fallers use.
Except for the very occasional user, I so agree with you! For someone who
really wants to use a chainsaw - there is no such thing as a "homeowner"
version.
Yes, there is.....
At the local chain saw shop they have differing versions priced that way....
piston size,quality......
tree fallers always get the pro.....
Like a John Deere tractor compared to a Case.....
Get over it. Accept it. Quit arguing/thinking about it. Just
buy a good saw. It won't even cost much more than the junk that homeowners
think they're getting a good deal on. Spend the extra $50-$100 and get a
saw ferchristsakes...
Did I say that right?
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
forget it.....
a file and a saw guide......
john
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
> Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
> Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
> recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
> learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
> require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
> pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
> work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.
>
*snip*
I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are
they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you
something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a
hone?
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
On 2/25/2014 7:19 AM, jloomis wrote:
> forget it.....
> a file and a saw guide......
> john
>
> "Puckdropper" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
> *snip*
>
>> Sharp chain - the number one qualifier for any chainsaw discussion.
>> Too many occasional users never learn how to sharpen a chain, how to
>> recognize when it needs sharpening, et. al. It takes 5 minutes to
>> learn how to do it properly from someone who knows, does not even
>> require a guide, and only a couple of oops' before you're really
>> pretty good at being able to keep a chain sharp enough to do good
>> work. But - for some reason, this escapes most people.
>>
> *snip*
>
> I've seen devices that are supposed to "sharpen" a chain that mount on
> the saw and you run the chain through it. Do they actually work? Or are
> they like most "sharpeners" out there that take a dull edge and gives you
> something that actually cuts (but not well) or reshape the edge like a
> hone?
>
> Puckdropper
One of the biggest problems with end users in chainsaws is that they
overthink the problem. I have a Crapsman chainsaw sharpener that has
more adapter dials than a diamond cutting wheel. It takes ten minutes
to just get the thing mounted, and that is if you are totally aware on
how it works.
Most chains have an indicator groove that show which angle to hold the
file at when filing. Any book will tell you which direction to stroke.
Any book will have instructions on how to file down the nubbins on the
chain.
Results: If you have a vise or a stump clamp, you can set up your saw,
and sharpen it very well in about five minutes. It's all about the
angles, and there are only a couple. The devices they sell with motors
take off twice the amount of metal needed to sharpen a saw, and most
people take off more than that, or take it off in the wrong place.
A simple round chainsaw file and a vise or stump clamp is all one needs
to service a saw. What do you see those professional guys carrying
around in their pocket? Not a bunch of contraptions. Just a file, and
maybe a stump clamp. But minimalist gear, and they know how to use it.
Get the right gear, and learn how to use it. Get rid of the automatic
gadgets, and learn how to do it right.
Steve
"Leon" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every
>piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use.
Yeah, I get that, Leon. In my original response to Gramps, I just mentioned
that the local arborists are Husky users, merely as a point of comparison to
offer a different viewpoint from mine as a satisfied Stihl user. Trying to
be even-handed. If Stihl vs. Husky is a religious war in some quarters, I
have no intention of dying in a ditch over it. In fact, the reason I've got
a Stihl is that the nearest good chainsaw repair place was at the time a
Stihl dealer; if it had been a Husky dealer I'd no doubt own a Husky
instead.
I love the SawStop - I'm half-owner of a fairly new one that I share with a
boat builder friend, that we purchased to replace a Delta cabinet saw that
took off one of his index fingers. I'm on the Festool bandwagon too, with a
CXS drill, a jigsaw, and a random orbital sander - hope this admission
doesn't bring the Festool haters out of the woodwork, too.
One of the saws that my tree guys use is a very small and light Husky
limbing chainsaw with about a 14-inch bar, that they use one-handed when
they're up a tree. I lust after it, but it's a professional tool and priced
to suit - about $600 or so - and there's no way that I could justify it for
the occasional use I'd make of it.
Tom
EXT wrote:
> I agree, I have an old Poulan that I bought around 1980. It will take
> about 6 pulls of the cord to get it started as it hasn't run for
> about 8 years, but I am certain it will start, and then it will start
> on the first pull after that. I am going to clean it up and sharpen
> it when this cold snap is over, as I have a yard full of fallen tree
> limbs from the ice storm to get rid of.
Ahhhh... back in the day when Poulan was a competitive name.
Unfortunately... not today.
Really - unfortunate that another good name bit the corporate dust.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Not a Festool hater, by any means (track saw, router, and Domino) but
I'm not "getting" the drill or jigsaw. My wife even commented that
the ROS looks nice. ;-)
I admit that I don't use a jigsaw very much and I'm quite happy with
my Bosch the few times I need it. Why do you think the drill and
jigsaw are better than the myriad of others? I've asked others this
before but I just wanted your take. Thanks.
I forgot to mention the track saw, in which I'm also partners with my
fingerless friend. Best purchase we've ever made. We can slide sheet goods
right from the truck onto a work table and break them down, right to the
finished line, without having to fire up the table saw for big cuts. Saves a
huge amount of time and turns what's often a two-person job into a solo
operation. Hell of a tool.
The CXS drill is mostly because of my bad shoulders. Forty years of wooden
boat repair and restoration have pretty much wrecked them, so I now have a
heck of a time holding tools up over my head. The CXS drill is Festool's
smallest at 10.8 V, but it's lightweight, has more power than I expected,
and has proven to be pretty good for what I do with it nowadays. I keep the
spare battery on the charger and swap them whenever I need to, but I don't
run a portable drill as hard as I used to and so it doesn't turn out to be a
problem. An inconvenience is that it only goes up to 5/16 diameter bits. So
I'm thinking of adding a C15 to the shop for heavier work and larger drill
bits, in spite of the additional weight (and cost!).
I got the jigsaw to replace an ancient Makita that's started to rattle so
loud that my wife says she can hear it from the house. As advertised, it
claims that its splinter-guard inserts will handle the issue with breakout
on top of the piece, and that was the main reason I got it instead of the
very-highly-regarded Bosch. But in practice that aspect hasn't worked out
very well, and in addition the plastic shroud that's part of the dust
collection system somewhat obscures my view of the cutting line, so the
premium cost of the Festool name was pretty much wasted in this case. I've
gone back to using it like I was doing with the Makita, which is to use
hollow-ground down-cut blades. With that scheme I can follow a mark within a
few hundredths of an inch if I keep my wits about me. If you can believe it,
Starrett now even makes a combination up-cut and down-cut blade that leaves
a clean edge on both the top and bottom of the piece.
I guess what I'm not "getting" is the router. I've got a Porter-Cable 890
that lives permanently in the router table, a couple Porter-Cable 690s that
I use handheld, and recently a new Dewalt 611 which is a nice little 1 1/4
hp machine, a sort of big brother to a trim router. It has a good depth
adjustment mechanism, but has the drawback that it accepts only 1/4" bits.
All these machines are working out OK for me, so I'm not feeling like I need
to up my game in that area.
Tom
"Dale Miller" wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>Tom doesn't Stihl have a small limbing saw for around $200?
>I thought I seen one in my local dealer.
You don't say...I'll have to take another look.
Tom
--
All the Best
Dale Miller
Tennessee
ASP since February 2005
Registered Linux User: #317401
Linux since June 2003
Registered Ubuntu User #26423
[email protected]
[email protected]
(cut the spam to reply)
VOTE TO REBUILD!
www.twintowersalliance.com
__
EXT wrote:
> "BillinGA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not
>> anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with
>> Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas
>> if used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can
>> easily flip over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a
>> cut off valve in the gas line and run them until they die from lack
>> of fuel. Purists may point out starving an engine struggling to run
>> is lean/harmful...no problems so far. All start on first pull with
>> the addition of fresh fuel next time used.
>
> I have learned to never use ethanol gas in single cylinder engines,
> especially the small ones. I have a Honda baby tiller 4 cycle engine
> that will NOT run with ethanol gas, but put premium ethanol free gas
> and it will purr like a kitten. I now use it in my Honda 4 cycle
> string trimmer and it starts instantly. I use it in my lawn mower,
> snow blower and other small engines and they all seem to start and
> run better. It will be used in my chain saw when spring comes -- with
> the addition of 2 cycle oil.
You are well advised to follow that plan sir. I use ethanol shields and
they have worked very well so far, but it is still better to use fuel that
does not contain ethanol. Even with the ethanol shields, natural rubber gas
lines decay, seals decay, etc. It's not worth the trouble to use the junk.
As you say - just buy non-ethanol gas and be rid of all of the ethanol
problems.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Tom Dacon wrote:
>
> I guess what I'm not "getting" is the router. I've got a Porter-Cable
> 890 that lives permanently in the router table, a couple Porter-Cable
> 690s that I use handheld, and recently a new Dewalt 611 which is a
> nice little 1 1/4 hp machine, a sort of big brother to a trim router.
> It has a good depth adjustment mechanism, but has the drawback that
> it accepts only 1/4" bits. All these machines are working out OK for
> me, so I'm not feeling like I need to up my game in that area.
>
I have a DeWalt 618 that also spends 99% of its time in the table. It came
with both the 1/4" and the 1/2" collets, but I don't think I've ever put the
1/2" collet in the thing. The 1/4" has handled everything I've ever needed
to throw at it so far, so who knows - maybe at some point, but for now - it
just works.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
Tom Dacon wrote:
> "Dale Miller" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>
>> Tom doesn't Stihl have a small limbing saw for around $200?
>> I thought I seen one in my local dealer.
>
> You don't say...I'll have to take another look.
>
> Tom
They do! I know because that's what I bought for my wife for Christmas a
couple of years ago when she made the mistake of saying that she wanted a
"girly chainsaw". I bought her a 170. It was under $200, and I gotta tell
you - I love that little saw. It is so much better to limb with than my
361! Lightweight, maneuverable, doesn't get all caught up in the branches
like my long bar on my 361. It's good for blocking wood up to about 8" in
diameter or so, and then it starts to show its size. It will still cut
bigger pieces, but it's working harder to do it. But like I said for
limbing - it's the cat's meow.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"Mike Marlow" wrote in message news:[email protected]...
They do! I know because that's what I bought for my wife for Christmas a
couple of years ago when she made the mistake of saying that she wanted a
"girly chainsaw". I bought her a 170. It was under $200, and I gotta tell
you - I love that little saw. It is so much better to limb with than my
361! Lightweight, maneuverable, doesn't get all caught up in the branches
like my long bar on my 361. It's good for blocking wood up to about 8" in
diameter or so, and then it starts to show its size. It will still cut
bigger pieces, but it's working harder to do it. But like I said for
limbing - it's the cat's meow.
That sounds like a good recommendation.
Thanks, Mike.
Tom
"Mike Marlow" <[email protected]> wrote>
> You are well advised to follow that plan sir. I use ethanol shields and
> they have worked very well so far, but it is still better to use fuel that
> does not contain ethanol. Even with the ethanol shields, natural rubber
> gas lines decay, seals decay, etc. It's not worth the trouble to use the
> junk. As you say - just buy non-ethanol gas and be rid of all of the
> ethanol problems.
In addition, I have had the metal in some small engine carburetors all but
dissolve using E10. They form a powdery type of corrosion that plugs up the
small passages and jets, then you might as well throw them away. Expensive.
--
Jim in NC
---
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http://www.avast.com
On 2/25/2014 12:42 PM, Markem wrote:
> On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 23:20:41 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Puckdropper wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Here's what I was thinking about:
>>> http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#
>>>
>>> I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
>>> website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good
>>> idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company.
>>>
>>> Puckdropper
>>
>> Please,,. don't waste your money, There is no wa you can properly sharpen a
>> chain in the way they describe. No matter - it only takes minutes to do it
>> the right way without getting scammmed by this kind of crap. Go to a local
>> chainsaw repair shop and have them show you how to do it. It will be so
>> worth your time that you will be posting comments about it. A simple round
>> file of the right size and a couple of strokes, and you can have a perfect;u
>> sharpened chain. Really... Yoi can!
>
> Have an 12V electric file takes me about ten minutes to do the 18" and
> 14" saws, about twenty minutes with a regular file. Also remember to
> mark the starting tooth otherwise it takes all day.
>
> Mark
If you were to measure the cutting life of two chains, one sharpened
with a hand file, the other sharpened with an electric, I would say that
the hand file sharpened chain would last twice as long. The hand file
simply removes less metal, and it reduces the tendency of ham handed
operators to go crazy with them.
Do what the pros do. Carry a couple of very simple files, and know
where to take off the metal. Same as any guy who knows how to sharpen
knives. I've seen knives that were sharpened down to almost nothing,
starting at 3/8" wide at the handle, and coming down to a toothpick on
the point. Absolutely no need to remove that much metal besides
inexperience and error.
Steve
Steve
"SteveB" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Do what the pros do. Carry a couple of very simple files, and know where
> to take off the metal. Same as any guy who knows how to sharpen knives.
> I've seen knives that were sharpened down to almost nothing, starting at
> 3/8" wide at the handle, and coming down to a toothpick on the point.
> Absolutely no need to remove that much metal besides inexperience and
> error.
Another comment I would make is to keep spare new files on hand. It seems
to me the speed of sharpening with a file used just a very few times is
twice as slow as a nice new file.
--
Jim in NC
---
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Gramps' shop wrote:
> Well, that was a spirited discussion! I've decided on the Stihl
> MS170. Thanks for all of the good recommendations -- and for
> steering me away from some bad options. Buying this from a local
> outdoor equipment company at about 30% off MSRP. It was his last
> one.
>
Good for you Larry. That is a very good saw for light weight work and you
will not be disappointed in it at all. If you want to use it beyond it's
real design intent, just remember to go slow and easy - it will do it, just
don't try to push it hard at that point. If I can offer any user based
advise on that saw, just give a yell. But - I think you're really going to
love that saw. It's a great little saw.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:50:47 -0500, "EXT"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"BillinGA" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> I would vote for Stihl also. I like to purchase 100% gasoline...not
>> anything with an ounce of ethanol in it. Others have good luck with
>> Stabil or like additives. As posters above point out...drain the gas if
>> used infrequently. I drain gas tanks on 2 stoke devices I can easily flip
>> over...large 4 strokes like mowers or tillers I put a cut off valve in the
>> gas line and run them until they die from lack of fuel. Purists may point
>> out starving an engine struggling to run is lean/harmful...no problems so
>> far. All start on first pull with the addition of fresh fuel next time
>> used.
>
>I have learned to never use ethanol gas in single cylinder engines,
>especially the small ones. I have a Honda baby tiller 4 cycle engine that
>will NOT run with ethanol gas, but put premium ethanol free gas and it will
>purr like a kitten. I now use it in my Honda 4 cycle string trimmer and it
>starts instantly. I use it in my lawn mower, snow blower and other small
>engines and they all seem to start and run better. It will be used in my
>chain saw when spring comes -- with the addition of 2 cycle oil.
I have no trouble with E10 in my small engines, including Honda lawn
mower, Crapsman tractor, Generac pressure washer, and 4-cycle
trimmer/blower/brush cutter/edger. Works fine in all. Starts fine,
even in the spring after sitting for six months. I just change the
oil, top off the fuel, and pull.
On 2/23/2014 9:05 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Dave Balderstone wrote:
>> In article <[email protected]>,
>> Gramps' shop <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> I have infrequent need for a chainsaw and have a little McCullough
>>> electric that does OK. There are a couple of trees down in the back
>>> too remote for the electric and I'd like to have a gas saw to take
>>> advantage of found logs or limbs.
>>>
>>> Since my use is infrequent, I don't want to invest too much. CL
>>> frequently has Poulans available. Here's an example:
>>> http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/4346181306.html
>>>
>>> Any thoughts?
>>>
>>> Larry
>>
>> I've got a couple of Jonsereds. Reliable, sturdy, not terribly
>> expensive.
>
> They've always been good saws but you don't find dealers around much
> anymore. Or - shops to repair them.
>
Tractor supply sells Jonsereds, but they don't offer service.
Buy a Stihl.
--
Jeff
On Wed, 26 Feb 2014 11:03:01 -0800, "Tom Dacon"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Not a Festool hater, by any means (track saw, router, and Domino) but
>I'm not "getting" the drill or jigsaw. My wife even commented that
>the ROS looks nice. ;-)
>
>I admit that I don't use a jigsaw very much and I'm quite happy with
>my Bosch the few times I need it. Why do you think the drill and
>jigsaw are better than the myriad of others? I've asked others this
>before but I just wanted your take. Thanks.
>
>
>I forgot to mention the track saw, in which I'm also partners with my
>fingerless friend. Best purchase we've ever made. We can slide sheet goods
>right from the truck onto a work table and break them down, right to the
>finished line, without having to fire up the table saw for big cuts. Saves a
>huge amount of time and turns what's often a two-person job into a solo
>operation. Hell of a tool.
>
>The CXS drill is mostly because of my bad shoulders. Forty years of wooden
>boat repair and restoration have pretty much wrecked them, so I now have a
>heck of a time holding tools up over my head. The CXS drill is Festool's
>smallest at 10.8 V, but it's lightweight, has more power than I expected,
>and has proven to be pretty good for what I do with it nowadays. I keep the
>spare battery on the charger and swap them whenever I need to, but I don't
>run a portable drill as hard as I used to and so it doesn't turn out to be a
>problem. An inconvenience is that it only goes up to 5/16 diameter bits. So
>I'm thinking of adding a C15 to the shop for heavier work and larger drill
>bits, in spite of the additional weight (and cost!).
I have the Bosch 12V (10.8V) and 18V drills and drivers. The smaller
ones are the most used. I'm not seeing the difference. "It makes
holes!" ;-)
>I got the jigsaw to replace an ancient Makita that's started to rattle so
>loud that my wife says she can hear it from the house. As advertised, it
>claims that its splinter-guard inserts will handle the issue with breakout
>on top of the piece, and that was the main reason I got it instead of the
>very-highly-regarded Bosch. But in practice that aspect hasn't worked out
>very well, and in addition the plastic shroud that's part of the dust
>collection system somewhat obscures my view of the cutting line, so the
>premium cost of the Festool name was pretty much wasted in this case. I've
>gone back to using it like I was doing with the Makita, which is to use
>hollow-ground down-cut blades. With that scheme I can follow a mark within a
>few hundredths of an inch if I keep my wits about me. If you can believe it,
>Starrett now even makes a combination up-cut and down-cut blade that leaves
>a clean edge on both the top and bottom of the piece.
Interesting. I'll have to look into the Starrett blades, though I
haven't had a lot of tear-out with the Bosch (I threw away a few
older-crappy saws).
>I guess what I'm not "getting" is the router. I've got a Porter-Cable 890
>that lives permanently in the router table, a couple Porter-Cable 690s that
>I use handheld, and recently a new Dewalt 611 which is a nice little 1 1/4
>hp machine, a sort of big brother to a trim router. It has a good depth
>adjustment mechanism, but has the drawback that it accepts only 1/4" bits.
>All these machines are working out OK for me, so I'm not feeling like I need
>to up my game in that area.
>
I had a PC7518 motor in a table, a PC691, and a Bosch Colt trim
router. I wanted something bigger for hand-held but wanted it
controllable. The OF1400 has very nice depth adjustments and the
plunge control really smooth. I guess I just liked it better than
anything else I found. I wouldn't buy a router (other than a trim
router) that didn't take 1/2" bits (so didn't bother looking further
at that OF1100).
On 2/24/2014 11:20 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Puckdropper wrote:
>
>>
>> Here's what I was thinking about:
>> http://powersharp.com/default_NoFlash.asp#
>>
>> I thought there was also a version built into the saw. Looking at the
>> website, though, it looks like one of those products that's a good
>> idea but restricted to special products only offered by one company.
>>
>> Puckdropper
>
> Please,,. don't waste your money, There is no wa you can properly sharpen a
> chain in the way they describe. No matter - it only takes minutes to do it
> the right way without getting scammmed by this kind of crap. Go to a local
> chainsaw repair shop and have them show you how to do it. It will be so
> worth your time that you will be posting comments about it. A simple round
> file of the right size and a couple of strokes, and you can have a perfect;u
> sharpened chain. Really... Yoi can!
>
Yes but after a while you will need to take a flat file and reshape the
tooth. The round part is only part of the sharpening, the flats are
important too.
But like everyone says it's really not hard to do free hand.
--
Jeff
On 2/25/2014 12:56 PM, Tom Dacon wrote:
>
>
> "Leon" wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>> Being a pro in a particular field does not made you an expert on every
>> piece of equipment within a product line that you may or may not use.
>
> Yeah, I get that, Leon. In my original response to Gramps, I just
> mentioned that the local arborists are Husky users, merely as a point of
> comparison to offer a different viewpoint from mine as a satisfied Stihl
> user. Trying to be even-handed. If Stihl vs. Husky is a religious war in
> some quarters, I have no intention of dying in a ditch over it. In fact,
> the reason I've got a Stihl is that the nearest good chainsaw repair
> place was at the time a Stihl dealer; if it had been a Husky dealer I'd
> no doubt own a Husky instead.
>
> I love the SawStop - I'm half-owner of a fairly new one that I share
> with a boat builder friend, that we purchased to replace a Delta cabinet
> saw that took off one of his index fingers. I'm on the Festool bandwagon
> too, with a CXS drill, a jigsaw, and a random orbital sander - hope this
> admission doesn't bring the Festool haters out of the woodwork, too.
Good on you Tom. ;~)
>
> One of the saws that my tree guys use is a very small and light Husky
> limbing chainsaw with about a 14-inch bar, that they use one-handed when
> they're up a tree. I lust after it, but it's a professional tool and
> priced to suit - about $600 or so - and there's no way that I could
> justify it for the occasional use I'd make of it.
>
> Tom
>
I continue to use an electric Craftsman that I bought about 20 years
ago. ;~)
Yep - I vote the same. My 25 year old Husky 20" 50 is still running.
Need rings I bet - leaks a bit of oil in the piston. But
then it has been really used and is a hand to use at 67 now. I love
my arbor Stihl a lightweight baby that works like a horse. But
use both. This new gas is crap for a lot of tools. Be sure to buy
the treatment to keep the water out - water and gas destroys light metals.
I used to live in a Redwood forest. The woodmen who cut the various
oaks, madrones and redwoods (species and sub-species) all use Stihl.
They have Husky's as backups and trim work on downed trees.
Martin
On 2/24/2014 12:41 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> Nick wrote:
>
>> Tom, I have to agree with you on all counts.
>> Except for Poulan. I'm in UK and have never heard of this make. I've
>> used Stihl chainsaws for 35 years. My oldest one, a really useful
>> 009, died yesterday. It has been on its last legs for some while but
>> I will miss it nevertheless. Stihls have served me very well over the
>> years and I look after my 4 saws. I'm somewhere in between a hobbyist
>> and a pro. The wood burner takes some feeding and I have a fair bit
>> of timber to attend to. Last week there were some tree surgeons
>> working locally on a large weeping willow that had toppled following
>> high winds and flooding. About 100ft high. Blocked a stream and a
>> lane. Too big for me at my age and these guys came with a 130T
>> capacity crane to assist! I got talking to one of the guys. He was using a
>> Husqvarna with a 48"
>> bar. He told me that he had stopped using Stihl as they, in his
>> words, 'lost the plot some years ago when they started concentrating
>> on saws for hobbyists'. Husqvarna have taken on the mantle and now
>> produce excellent saws for both pro's and hobbyists. I think this a
>> bit of a shame as Stihl led the market for years, but times change.
>> Husqvarna now lead the field in pro saws through innovation.
>> I don't think I'll ever need a new saw, if otherwise I will certainly
>> look at what Husqvarna might have to offer.
>> Good luck.
>> Nick.
>
> I think that Husky (prior to the sell out), was a viable competitor to
> Stihl. I am a Stihl guy and there are plenty of Husky guys out there.
> Never really did see where one was really better than the other. Both great
> saws. I would though, strenuously disagree with your tree guy. Don't know
> what he's smoking, but to this day Stihl still makes some of the best pro
> model saws available and that is proven by the number of pros that still use
> them. I think he was just talking shit. Even their homeowner line is far
> better than competing products. Still Stihl quality. Not pro quality, but
> way better than typical homeowner quality junk that's out there in the
> market. My thoughts on the quality of Stihl are not just based on my
> preference for that saw but are hugely influenced by my local dealer who
> sells both Husky and Stihl, and repairs everything out there. Talk to one
> of those guys - not the tree guy who really does not know.
>