Ok,
I am relatively new to bandsaws. I got a good book which I am reading, but
at the same time I need to get started using the saw. So I have one
hopefully simple question. If I were to buy a few blades to cover most of
the usual tasks (curves, resaw, etc) what is the best type. I get confused
reading about all the hook angles, etc. The saw is a 15" and can handle up
to a 1inch blade.
Thanks
danh
A nice size band saw. Thin width blades are for tight inside curves.
Wider blades wont make a tight inside curve.
Fine teeth ( # of teeth per inch ) will crosscut just fine but are not
intended for ripping. I use a 1" blade for rip cuts to stock when it
cut it on its edge ( with a homemade fence, of course ) so the blade
wont ' wander ". A half inch blade will wander on rip cuts when
making an edge cut... in other words... lets say you want to cut some
veneer out of a 3/4 inch by six inch piece of stock.
I set up my high, homemade rip fence to a tad over 1/8 inch and send
the stock through feeding slowly. Get the idea ?
I use standard issue teeth configurations for all cuts because I'm
very fortunate to have a fully equipped wood shop... 16 inch bladed
table saw... 6 inch surface planner... hugh jointer... stand up 12"
disk sander... floor mounted shaper... etc., etc. I use a quality
scroll saw for tight inside corners on ' delicate' projects. So what
I'm saying is that blades for band saws arent like planner blades for
table saws.
All in all, 10 teeth per inch and a half inch wide blade is what I
use as standard issue for all cuts other than ripping veneer. I still
need to drum sand cuts made by my band saw regardless if I'm using a
14 teeth per inch blade or a 10. The work coming out of a band saw
isnt a smooth edged finished piece and more work has to be done on the
stock to finish it. So band saws have their limitations.
You'd have to get into those small project types of band saws with
about a 5 or 6 inch wheel to get a finished edge.
On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 01:12:59 GMT, "danh"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ok,
>
>I am relatively new to bandsaws. I got a good book which I am reading, but
>at the same time I need to get started using the saw. So I have one
>hopefully simple question. If I were to buy a few blades to cover most of
>the usual tasks (curves, resaw, etc) what is the best type. I get confused
>reading about all the hook angles, etc. The saw is a 15" and can handle up
>to a 1inch blade.
>
>Thanks
>
>danh
>
Call Suffolk Machinery, 1-800-234-SAWS, and tell them what you want to
do and they'll tell you the best blade for that task. They have a lot
of stuff on their site about blades.
On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 01:12:59 GMT, "danh"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ok,
>
>I am relatively new to bandsaws. I got a good book which I am reading, but
>at the same time I need to get started using the saw. So I have one
>hopefully simple question. If I were to buy a few blades to cover most of
>the usual tasks (curves, resaw, etc) what is the best type. I get confused
>reading about all the hook angles, etc. The saw is a 15" and can handle up
>to a 1inch blade.
>
>Thanks
>
>danh
>
1/4" for small detailed work, scroll saw type
3/8" for everything else except-
1/2" for resawing.
Only buy Suffolk Machinery or Highland Hardware Woodslicer blades.
On Mon, 22 Dec 2003 01:12:59 GMT, "danh"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Ok,
>
>I am relatively new to bandsaws. I got a good book which I am reading, but
>at the same time I need to get started using the saw. So I have one
>hopefully simple question. If I were to buy a few blades to cover most of
>the usual tasks (curves, resaw, etc) what is the best type. I get confused
>reading about all the hook angles, etc. The saw is a 15" and can handle up
>to a 1inch blade.
>
>Thanks
>
>danh
>
"danh" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I am relatively new to bandsaws. I got a good book which I am reading, but
> at the same time I need to get started using the saw. So I have one
> hopefully simple question. If I were to buy a few blades to cover most of
> the usual tasks (curves, resaw, etc) what is the best type. I get confused
> reading about all the hook angles, etc. The saw is a 15" and can handle up
> to a 1inch blade.
Call up http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/, tell them what kind of saw you
have and what kind of work you want to do. They'll sell you what you
need. Their blades cost a bit more than some others, but they're
excellent quality.
Don't waste your money buying the crap blades you can pick up at Sears.
Compared to the cost of the machine, blades (even expensive ones) are
cheap, and a good one can make a world of difference. Saving $10-20 on
a blade which will cripple a $500 machine is foolish.
Don't get lost in details like hook angles, blade tension, teeth per
inch, kerfs, etc. Just tell them what you want to do and they'll sell
you the right blade. Eventually you'll sort all that stuff out, but for
now just get some good blades and start making sawdust.