I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage titebond
had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they even
make titebond. He didn't have any idea.
So I did a google search and found that the only advantage of titebond is
that parts can be taken apart with water, so it is good for joints that
might need to be taken apart.
So, my questions:
1) Can titebond joints be taken apart with water? If so, how? I made two
matching cabinets, only the plywood panels came from different sheets and
sure don't match. I would like to replace them on one cabinet. When I
posted a question a couple weeks ago on how to do that, no one suggested
dissolving the glue.
2) Is there any other advantage to titebond?
3) How susceptible to water problems is titebond? Is a cabinet in an
occasionally steamy bathroom at risk?
Thanks.
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage
titebond
> had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they
even
> make titebond. He didn't have any idea.
Titebond II can be exposed to wet conditions (outside, etc) and not have
any problems. Titebond will eventually fail.
As far as taking glued panels apart, you'll probably have to use so much
water that you'll delaminate the plywood. Titebond is pretty strong
stuff.
Fri, Nov 14, 2003, 5:20pm (EST+5) [email protected]
(Wade=A0Lippman) claims:
I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage
titebond had over titebond II. <snip>
And, probably a Home Depot clerk to boot.
There's a 1-800 number on the container. Call it, ask your
questions. I have done it several times, they are friendly, and will
answer all your questions.
JOAT
Of course I don't think you're a complete idiot. Some parts are
missing.
Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 13 Nov 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofalltrades/SOMETUNESILIKE/
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Mike, how much working time did the extended version give you. IIRC
> someone said only an extra 10 minutes? (which might be enough to stave
> off a few choice words of mine during glue-ups)
Nope - I got the full 30mins of open time off of Extend.. And needed every
second.
Phisherman wrote:
> It's a yellow carpenter's glue. Elmer's is just as good. The joint,
> curing process, and clamping are very important, no matter what brand
> is selected.
As someone who's been using Elmer's for years, I have to say I think I like
Titebond better. Still on my first bottle, mind you, so I haven't used it
much, and I haven't tried Titebond II yet. Seems to flow much easier, and
has a higher initial tack, so the parts don't want to slip around as much.
It also seems to have a longer working time. If the bottle isn't telling a
fib, it also won't transform irreversibly into cheese if I accidentally let
it freeze.
Strength wise, I doubt it matters. I've got Elmer's-glued stuff that has
held up for years.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
did you leave yours in the sun? :) Every bottle of titebond II I've seen
is yellow...
dave
Mike in Mystic wrote:
> "Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> -snip-
>
> "Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
> (pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
> chain. "
>
> why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?
>
>
>
hmmmm. I am thinking of the "extend" version of Titebond II that I recently
used - my mistake.
--
There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
"Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Mike in Mystic" wrote ...
> > why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?
>
> ???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.
>
> --
>
> Cheers,
> Howard
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
> Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
>
>
> "Wade Lippman" wrote
> Titebond II can be exposed to wet conditions (outside, etc) and not have
> any problems. Titebond will eventually fail.
Just to add to what Wade said, original Titebond and Titebond II are both
polyvinyl acetate emulsions. Ther term 'aliphatic resin has little or no
real meaning. Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
(pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
chain. This cross linking makes Titebond II more resistant to degradation
by water but it will still break down. Titebond II is not waterproof by any
stretch of the imagination. Water resistant would be a batter term. Thus,
both will fail eventually in the presence of water. For a bathroom I would
definitely use Titebond II as it would resist the higher humidity more
effectively.
> As far as taking glued panels apart, you'll probably have to use so much
> water that you'll delaminate the plywood. Titebond is pretty strong
> stuff.
Too true. To say that Titebond can be taken apart by water would be a
stretch. It is degraded by water but you do not use water to take it apart.
That would suggest reversibility and since PVA adhesives are polymerized
through a chemical reaction, they are by their very nature irreversible -
unlike hide glue for instance. No-one suggested taking it apart using water
because it just isn't a good idea. I would probably steer closer to
veneering the panel or finding another way to cover it rather than taking
the cabinet apart. You could try to use creative finishing to match them
better.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] says...
> As far as taking glued panels apart, you'll probably have to use so much
> water that you'll delaminate the plywood. Titebond is pretty strong
> stuff.
>
Yep. If you want reversibility, use hide glue. But not outside :-).
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
....
> 2) Is there any other advantage to titebond?
I went back to using Titebond for most of my gluing. Titebond II was too
viscous, and more of a pain to use.
You are better off with a variety of adhesives --- Polyurethane, white (for
more working time), yellow, water-resistant yellow, 5 min epoxy, System 3
regular epoxy, hide glue, and hot shot. They all have a place in the shop.
"Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
-snip-
"Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
(pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
chain. "
why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?
On Sat, 15 Nov 2003 01:04:22 -0500, Silvan
<[email protected]> wrote:
>Phisherman wrote:
>
>> It's a yellow carpenter's glue. Elmer's is just as good. The joint,
>> curing process, and clamping are very important, no matter what brand
>> is selected.
>
>As someone who's been using Elmer's for years, I have to say I think I like
>Titebond better.
I agree, but I switched years ago. Elmer's may have changed since
then.
I've always found Titebond easier and more predictable to work with,
and it seems to sand better.
Barry
well, I'm not sure exactly. I used it to laminate the MDF layers of the
benchtop I made. I had laid out the doghole grid before I started, so I
knew were it would be safe to use nails, so I nailed the layers together
with brads. Because of that, I didn't really explore the open time
systematically. It definitely wasn't setting up as fast as regular
titebond, but I couldn't quantify it.
Mike
--
There are no stupid questions.
There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
"Bay Area Dave" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mike, how much working time did the extended version give you. IIRC
> someone said only an extra 10 minutes? (which might be enough to stave
> off a few choice words of mine during glue-ups)
>
>
> dave
>
> Mike in Mystic wrote:
>
> > hmmmm. I am thinking of the "extend" version of Titebond II that I
recently
> > used - my mistake.
> >
> > --
> >
> > There are no stupid questions.
> > There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
> >
> >
> > "Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> >
> >>"Mike in Mystic" wrote ...
> >>
> >>>why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?
> >>
> >>???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.
> >>
> >>--
> >>
> >>Cheers,
> >>Howard
> >>
> >>----------------------------------------------------------
> >>Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
> >>Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
"Wade Lippman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage titebond
> had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they even
> make titebond. He didn't have any idea.
I've used Titebond II for a couple of outdoor things. Good glue, but for
everyday working I prefer the 2002 GF from Lee Valley. I just like the way
it flows and brushes better. Moisture resistance or special applications
aside, use what ever glue feels best for you to work with.
I've also use System 3 epoxy when it was the best for the job. Filled in a
sloppy joint and gives a long set up time for a complicated assembly.
Ed
[email protected]
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome
On Fri, 14 Nov 2003 17:20:22 GMT, "Wade Lippman"
<[email protected]> wrote:
>I had to buy some glue today, and asked the clerk what advantage titebond
>had over titebond II. He said there wasn't any, so I asked why they even
>make titebond. He didn't have any idea.
>
>So I did a google search and found that the only advantage of titebond is
>that parts can be taken apart with water, so it is good for joints that
>might need to be taken apart.
>
>So, my questions:
>
>1) Can titebond joints be taken apart with water? If so, how? I made two
>matching cabinets, only the plywood panels came from different sheets and
>sure don't match. I would like to replace them on one cabinet. When I
>posted a question a couple weeks ago on how to do that, no one suggested
>dissolving the glue.
Yes. Warm water with a little vinegar added will loosen cured yellow
carpenter's glue joints, provided the glue is not labeled
"waterproof."
>
>2) Is there any other advantage to titebond?
It's a yellow carpenter's glue. Elmer's is just as good. The joint,
curing process, and clamping are very important, no matter what brand
is selected.
>
>3) How susceptible to water problems is titebond? Is a cabinet in an
>occasionally steamy bathroom at risk?
>
A joint should not depend on the glue. There's no substitute for
mortise and tenon joinery. Make sure you run an exhaust fan for 20
minutes during/after a steamy shower--this will prevent mold/mildew
from eating the wood.
>Thanks.
>
My gallon of Titebond II is yellow.
--
Al Reid
"It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know
for sure that just ain't so." --- Mark Twain
"Mike in Mystic" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> "Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> -snip-
>
> "Titebond II has the addition of some yellow colouring
> (pre-polymerization) and a chemical that acts to cross link the polymer
> chain. "
>
> why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?
>
>
>
Mike, how much working time did the extended version give you. IIRC
someone said only an extra 10 minutes? (which might be enough to stave
off a few choice words of mine during glue-ups)
dave
Mike in Mystic wrote:
> hmmmm. I am thinking of the "extend" version of Titebond II that I recently
> used - my mistake.
>
> --
>
> There are no stupid questions.
> There are a LOT of inquisitive idiots.
>
>
> "Howard Ruttan" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>"Mike in Mystic" wrote ...
>>
>>>why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?
>>
>>???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.
>>
>>--
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Howard
>>
>>----------------------------------------------------------
>>Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
>>Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org
>>
>>
>
>
>
"Mike in Mystic" wrote ...
> why is Titebond II white if they add yellow colouring?
???? My bottle of Titebond II is yellow.
--
Cheers,
Howard
----------------------------------------------------------
Working wood in New Jersey - [email protected]
Visit me in the woodshop - www.inthewoodshop.org