Projects going out one door, and in another:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise
and tenons this afternoon.
This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to
repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it
does to finish it.
The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/21/2013 11:48 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 11:25 AM, Leon wrote:
>> On 3/21/2013 9:42 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:
>>>
>>>> So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?
>>>
>>> Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
>>> end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
>>> ... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
>>> wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
>>> is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.
>>>
>>> The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
>>> some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
>>> that by the truckload from ATOH. ;)
>>>
>>> Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
>>> added to the delivery time.
>
>> OK now I am confused. First 4 coats poly/oil, is that a different Sam
>> Maloof product? What you rub off, is that simply excess, does it dry
>> such that it may become difficult to wipe off should it not be wiped
>> immediately.
>
> Two different products:
>
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2004
>
>> Would I be correct in assuming that the poly/oil/wax rubbing by hand is
>> similar to wiping off a wax haze?
>
> To an extent ... no haze, but Sam was apparently noted as saying that he
> rubbed the poly/oil/wax product (usually used for the last two coats,
> but also great refresher coats each year) hard enough that the friction
> got the part hot.
>
Ok, I think I am up to speed now. ;~)
IIRC some of the hand rubbing/buffing was done literally with the bare
hand, no rag, hence the hand feeling the heat.
On 3/21/2013 9:42 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:
>
>> So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?
>
> Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
> end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
> ... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
> wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
> is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.
>
> The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
> some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
> that by the truckload from ATOH. ;)
>
> Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
> added to the delivery time.
>
>> The walnut is looking really good! Any Arkansas walnut mixed in?
>
> Yep, the frame for the inlay will be Uncle Tete's (RIP) AR walnut ...
>
OK now I am confused. First 4 coats poly/oil, is that a different Sam
Maloof product? What you rub off, is that simply excess, does it dry
such that it may become difficult to wipe off should it not be wiped
immediately.
Would I be correct in assuming that the poly/oil/wax rubbing by hand is
similar to wiping off a wax haze?
it takes less time to fabricate one than it=20
>=20
> does to finish it.
>=20
>=20
Amen to dat. I often make 3 or 4 of whatever I am building. Then I'll finis=
h one right away but the others always sit until I get inspired or have mor=
e time.
I guess if I was just spraying in a blow and go method maybe it would be ea=
sier but I labor over every piece during assembly doing methodical near fin=
al sanding. Then once assembled lots of hand prep work. Then usually hand a=
pplied rubbed\wiped finish of some sort which including any dying and waxin=
g might be 6 or 8 steps, ie 6 or 8 complete workovers of the entire surface=
of the piece. =20
Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep it natural.
On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
>
>
> > Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
>
> > test strip. (not much to see yet)
>
>
>
> Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
>
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable#5858762999005691618
>
>
>
> --
>
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Sunday, May 26, 2013 3:15:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the
>
> splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof:
>
>
>
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BfgwxPuB3eEJSYdO1gxYBtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Looking good, Karl. Question: Is the center veneer?
Larry
On Friday, March 22, 2013 9:04:22 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/22/2013 8:21 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago =
when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 6=
0:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio d=
o you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoct=
ion? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Larry, in the interest of time, and the uncertainty of getting fresh=20
>=20
> materials to make it these days (and certainly not $$ because buying the=
=20
>=20
> stuff is expensive, but it goes a long way, and I'd rather not take the=
=20
>=20
> chance of any drying issues since I don't get paid until it's finished),=
=20
>=20
> I buy the "Sam Maloof Finish" from Rockler.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since=
=20
>=20
> I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps=20
>=20
> in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,=
=20
>=20
> but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in=
=20
>=20
> any event.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>=20
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>=20
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>=20
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>=20
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Thanks, Karl. That will be very helpful!
On 3/21/2013 10:47 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 6:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>
>>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>>
>> First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>>
>>
>>
> Let me guess. Is the spare piece in the foreground with only one tenon
> used to "mask" the leg while you apply the finish?
Close ... it was there to use as an edge in helping to precisely tear
off the tape that is indeed masking the mortises.
Works much better, and with no danger of scarring the stock, than a
razor blade. ;)
I also left it there because it does show the contrast between the
oil/poly application, and the unfinished wood.
IME, there is nothing like this type of finish for walnut, as years of
gun stock makers, using similar products, will attest.
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 04/01/2013 03:05 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
>>> other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
>>> or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
>>> it natural.
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
>>>>> maple
>>>>
>>>>> test strip. (not much to see yet)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHa
>>>> llTable#5858762999005691618
>>
>> I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
>> slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
>> take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
>> must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
>> would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
>> start experimenting with bleach ...
>
> Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied already?
>
> If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it lightens
> up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting around
> unfinished.
>
Oxidation - a slow burn.
--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill
"Swingman" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5899852665628096258
>
> (there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
> delivery time)
>
That is a pretty little thing. Obviously not an industrial piece. Looks
nice!
Han <[email protected]> wrote:
> "Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
>> other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
>> or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
>> it natural.
>>
>> On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
>>>> maple
>>>
>>>> test strip. (not much to see yet)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHa
>>> llTable#5858762999005691618
>
> I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
> slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
> take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
> must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
> would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
> start experimenting with bleach ...
Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied already?
If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it lightens
up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting around
unfinished.
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On 5/26/2013 3:15 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the
> splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof:
>
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BfgwxPuB3eEJSYdO1gxYBtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>
>
>
Looks great! and I am thinking that would make a beautiful kitchen
cabinet door!
On Mar 19, 6:33=A0pm, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
> Projects going out one door, and in another:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergH...
>
> Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise
> and tenons this afternoon.
>
> This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to
> repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it
> does to finish it.
I dunno.... maybe you missed at least part of your calling. No
kidding, but maybe you should think about (just saying, here...)
setting up furniture shop where you teach how to do that kind of fine
workmanship. I can actually see you teaching that kind of work if you
had willing students, and where else in our part of the world would
someone be able to learn those kinds of skills?
Robert
On 3/22/2013 8:21 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
> On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 6:33:56 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
>> Projects going out one door, and in another:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?authuser=0&feat=directlink
>>
>>
>>
>> Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise
>>
>> and tenons this afternoon.
>>
>>
>>
>> This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to
>>
>> repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it
>>
>> does to finish it.
>>
>>
>>
>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>>
>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>>
>> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>>
>> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>>
>> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>>
>> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
>
> I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.
>
> Larry
>
For your viewing pleasure, the formula straight from the mans mouth.
Look at about 17.5 minutes into the interview. He gives a couple of
formulas. The one I always remember is 1/3 varnish, 1/3 BLO, and 1/3
Tung Oil.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKIoezZUK6s
On 3/20/2013 6:40 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/20/13 6:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>> On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>>>>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>>>>
>>>> First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
>>>>
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.
>>
>> Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
>> should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?
>>
>
> You could save a few steps and use this...
> http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Honey-Adhesive-Contact-Paper/dp/B000KKIR0A
AAMOF, got some left over from those chairs I just 3D pri ... built.
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 4/1/2013 5:05 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
>>> other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
>>> or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
>>> it natural.
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
>>>>> maple
>>>>
>>>>> test strip. (not much to see yet)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHa
>>>> llTable#5858762999005691618
>>
>> I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
>> slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
>> take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
>> must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
>> would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
>> start experimenting with bleach ...
>
> Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied already?
>
> If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it lightens
> up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting around
> unfinished.
>
Funny you should mention this, the desk top cherry is darkening pretty
quickly in the garage facing the morning sun. Another narrow piece that
was being facing north in the garage had a couple of pieces of masking
tape on it. This was being kept for shelves. In just over 4 weeks the
wood has darkened except where the masking tape was and it would not
sand out. ;~( Fortunately one would have to look for it to see it.
I have low-E glass in my windows so the cherry getting the morning sun
inside the house is not darkening so quickly.
On 3/21/2013 11:25 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 3/21/2013 9:42 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:
>>
>>> So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?
>>
>> Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
>> end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
>> ... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
>> wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
>> is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.
>>
>> The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
>> some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
>> that by the truckload from ATOH. ;)
>>
>> Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
>> added to the delivery time.
> OK now I am confused. First 4 coats poly/oil, is that a different Sam
> Maloof product? What you rub off, is that simply excess, does it dry
> such that it may become difficult to wipe off should it not be wiped
> immediately.
Two different products:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2004
> Would I be correct in assuming that the poly/oil/wax rubbing by hand is
> similar to wiping off a wax haze?
To an extent ... no haze, but Sam was apparently noted as saying that he
rubbed the poly/oil/wax product (usually used for the last two coats,
but also great refresher coats each year) hard enough that the friction
got the part hot.
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/22/2013 9:04 AM, Swingman wrote:
> I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since
> I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps
> in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.
>
> I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,
> but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in
> any event.
Larry, as promised, this is just a progress report, not yet finished.
Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
test strip. (not much to see yet)
This would be the minimum number of coats of the basic product, which
would be followed by at least two coats with the product that contains
wax. These last coats are were you would get the most sheen.
Stay tuned ... I only have a cell phone to take photos these days, so I
wanted to take it the sunlight, but alas, no sun yet today.
Will add a couple of more basic coats, then at least two of the final
coats and report back here.
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods#5861914857879307954
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5899852665628096258
(there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
delivery time)
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5899852665628096258
>>
>>
>> (there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
>> delivery time)
>>
> As best I can tell, rec.woodworking tradition requires that someone stir
> the pot by calling a classic design like that "soulless" or "derivative".
>
> It'll have to be somebody else though. I'm hoping my own work gets to be
> half as good as that someday; maybe good enough for someone to bother insulting me too
>
> I like this one a lot.
Thanks.
I've built a dozen or so similar "hall" tables for folks in the past, but
this one is my favorite so far of this particular style, due mainly to its
proportions.
In this case the height, width and depth of the table, as well as the
amount of leg taper and inlay and spline material, was specified by the
customer, I simply built it to her spec.
So, the logical response to any such self styled critics you mention is
that when doing "custom" work, the CUSTOMer dictates the design ... IOW,
the only person who has to like it is the one who paid for it :)
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the
splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BfgwxPuB3eEJSYdO1gxYBtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/22/2013 8:21 AM, Gramp's shop wrote:
> I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40 oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do you use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction? Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.
Larry, in the interest of time, and the uncertainty of getting fresh
materials to make it these days (and certainly not $$ because buying the
stuff is expensive, but it goes a long way, and I'd rather not take the
chance of any drying issues since I don't get paid until it's finished),
I buy the "Sam Maloof Finish" from Rockler.
I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since
I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps
in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.
I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,
but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in
any event.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
"Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
> other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a coat
> or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to keep
> it natural.
>
> On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
>> On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> > Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
>> > maple
>>
>> > test strip. (not much to see yet)
>>
>>
>>
>> Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHa
>> llTable#5858762999005691618
I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very, very
slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss. She'll
take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it is. And I
must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I thought it
would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little hesitant to
start experimenting with bleach ...
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
Swingman <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> Han <[email protected]> wrote:
>> "Gramp's shop" <[email protected]> wrote in
>> news:[email protected]:
>>
>>> Thanks, Karl. My son wants this a tad darker to match/compliment
>>> other woodwork in his dining room, so we'll need to start with a
>>> coat or two of Watco stain. I've given up trying to convince him to
>>> keep it natural.
>>>
>>> On Monday, April 1, 2013 11:41:49 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard
>>>>> maple
>>>>
>>>>> test strip. (not much to see yet)
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldberg
>>>> Ha llTable#5858762999005691618
>>
>> I'm having the opposite problem. The coffeetable I am making (very,
>> very slowly, but it is coming!) is too dark according to the boss.
>> She'll take however it comes out, but she'd like it lighter than it
>> is. And I must admit, that quartersawn oak now looks darker than I
>> thought it would. Is there a wau to make it lighter? I'm a little
>> hesitant to start experimenting with bleach ...
>
> Is it just darker from exposure, or do you have something applied
> already?
>
> If it is just exposure, hit it with some sandpaper and see if it
> lightens up. Oak, particularly white oak, will darken just sitting
> around unfinished.
Yes it has been laying around due to general inertia, whatever. I do
hope it'll get lighter upon final sanding, but I guess that I'll have to
finish the exposed parts then immediately ... I'm waiting for the Sam
Maloof finishes to arrive from Rockler (thanks, Karl, for the
recommendation and links!!). So, I'll be safe from having to work on it
for another day <grin>.
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
On Sunday, May 26, 2013 3:15:12 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> Finally got back on this project yesterday, finished the top, did the splines this morning, sanded and started applying the Maloof: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/BfgwxPuB3eEJSYdO1gxYBtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink --
That looks great. Really like the book-matching and grain exposure, too.
Sonny
On Mon, 01 Apr 2013 11:35:48 -0500, Swingman <[email protected]> wrote:
>On 3/22/2013 9:04 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> I've never used it on hard maple, but I'll tell you what I will do since
>> I have to slather on some more today ... I have some hard maple scraps
>> in the shop and will run a test for you over the next few days.
>>
>> I would imagine that it will be an excellent, natural finish for maple,
>> but stay tuned and I'll post you some photos ... you got me wondering in
>> any event.
>
>Larry, as promised, this is just a progress report, not yet finished.
>
>Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
>test strip. (not much to see yet)
>
>This would be the minimum number of coats of the basic product, which
>would be followed by at least two coats with the product that contains
>wax. These last coats are were you would get the most sheen.
>
>Stay tuned ... I only have a cell phone to take photos these days, so I
>wanted to take it the sunlight, but alas, no sun yet today.
>
>Will add a couple of more basic coats, then at least two of the final
>coats and report back here.
>
>https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopJigsFixturesMethods#5861914857879307954
Love your work , and here I'm stuck with trying to figure my
girlfriend's smart hot water tank. The smart card says it's a bad
lower element, my Fluke meter says the element is fine, My guess is a
bad circuit board. But I love that table.
Mike M
On Tuesday, March 19, 2013 6:33:56 PM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:
> Projects going out one door, and in another:
>=20
>=20
>=20
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallT=
able?authuser=3D0&feat=3Ddirectlink
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Bought the stock at lunch, dimensioned the stock and cut all the mortise=
=20
>=20
> and tenons this afternoon.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> This little table is very familiar territory ... I keep being hired to=20
>=20
> repeat it to the point that it takes less time to fabricate one than it=
=20
>=20
> does to finish it.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as=20
>=20
> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> --=20
>=20
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
>=20
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
>=20
> https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
>=20
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
>=20
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
I recall reading about Maloof's poly/oil mix in FWW about 30 years ago when=
I made a bedroom set out of padauk. IIRC, I used a mixture of about 60:40=
oil to poly. Used 400 grit wet-dry paper between coats. What ratio do yo=
u use and can you report on the composition of the poly/oil/wax concoction?=
Also ... your thoughts on how this would work on hard maple.
Larry
On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
> test strip. (not much to see yet)
Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable#5858762999005691618
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/20/2013 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>
> First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>
>
So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?
As with most finishes that are rubbed on the first coat tends to be the
easiest. The subsequent coats tend to be the ones that are hard to rub
on evenly. I am finally mastering Old Masters gel varnish, local
conditions really really apply as to whether you have to rub out a coat
before proceeding to the next. The guide lines for doing so are
specifically, Sometimes you do, Sometimes you don't.
The walnut is looking really good! Any Arkansas walnut mixed in?
On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>
> First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>
>
Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 3/20/13 6:16 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>
>>>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>>>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>>>
>>> First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
>>>
>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.
>
> Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
> should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?
>
You could save a few steps and use this...
http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Honey-Adhesive-Contact-Paper/dp/B000KKIR0A
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Swingman wrote:
> On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
>>
>> Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.
>
> Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
> should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?
No need for the BIN. Save yourself a few bucks and thin down some old
latex. Should work great if you put it on correctly. The walnut faux
should really stand out nice on that.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 3/20/2013 6:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
> On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>
> First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>
>
Let me guess. Is the spare piece in the foreground with only one tenon
used to "mask" the leg while you apply the finish?
Swingman wrote:
> On 4/1/2013 11:35 AM, Swingman wrote:
>
>> Photo shows four coats of the basic Sam Maloof finish on a hard maple
>> test strip. (not much to see yet)
>
> Same number of coats on the walnut table frame:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable#5858762999005691618
Love that finish Karl!
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 7/12/2013 3:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5899852665628096258
>
>
> (there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
> delivery time)
>
Very nice Karl....always well done.
On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5899852665628096258
>
>
> (there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured by
> delivery time)
>
As best I can tell, rec.woodworking tradition requires that someone stir
the pot by calling a classic design like that "soulless" or "derivative".
It'll have to be somebody else though. I'm hoping my own work gets to be
half as good as that someday; maybe good enough for someone to bother
insulting me too
I like this one a lot.
Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5899852665628096258
>>
>>
>> (there was certainly no danger of the Maloof finish not being cured
>> by delivery time)
>>
> As best I can tell, rec.woodworking tradition requires that someone
> stir the pot by calling a classic design like that "soulless" or
> "derivative".
No - you should probably read more of this group than the one episode that
you make reference to. There was no real need for you to stir up that shit
Greg. But - maybe you feel better for having done it...
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel, surrounded
by (two layers of) border.
I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually similar;
a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end piece to
cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of the
panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5882382031842824786
Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the addition
of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract the
movement of the panel pieces?
Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>
> I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
> assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel, surrounded
> by (two layers of) border.
>
> I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually similar;
> a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
> around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end piece to
> cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of the
> panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
>
> But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5882382031842824786
>
> Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
> opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the addition
> of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract the
> movement of the panel pieces?
You do not want to frame a "solid wood" panel of any type in that manner.
You can get away with that type of framing in the photo when using a
veneered panel, made by gluing veneer on both sides of a dimensionally
stable substrate like MDF; or using some nicely figured plywood with the
veneer of your choice within the frame.
Because two sides of a "solid wood" framed panel are always going to be
"cross grain", you must make allowances for the inevitable cross grain
movement within any frame, like with a flat or raised panel door; or with
breadboard ends on the two cross grain ends on a table top, etc.
Also, be careful with the term "solid wood. In the commercial cabinet and
furniture industry, plywood is considered "solid wood".
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)
On 8/27/2013 5:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 8/27/2013 6:21 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>>>
>>> I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
>>> assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel, surrounded
>>> by (two layers of) border.
>>>
>>> I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually similar;
>>> a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
>>> around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end piece to
>>> cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of the
>>> panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
>>>
>>> But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
>>>
>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5882382031842824786
>>>
>>>
>>> Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
>>> opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the addition
>>> of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract the
>>> movement of the panel pieces?
>>
>> You do not want to frame a "solid wood" panel of any type in that manner.
>>
>> You can get away with that type of framing in the photo when using a
>> veneered panel, made by gluing veneer on both sides of a dimensionally
>> stable substrate like MDF; or using some nicely figured plywood with the
>> veneer of your choice within the frame.
>>
>> Because two sides of a "solid wood" framed panel are always going to be
>> "cross grain", you must make allowances for the inevitable cross grain
>> movement within any frame, like with a flat or raised panel door; or with
>> breadboard ends on the two cross grain ends on a table top, etc.
>>
>> Also, be careful with the term "solid wood. In the commercial cabinet and
>> furniture industry, plywood is considered "solid wood".
>>
> So the table top in the photo is veneer over some substrate?
Nothing mysterious/exotic ... 3/4" A1 Walnut Plywood (Domestic),
selected and cut for best grain effect.
--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://plus.google.com/114902129577517371552/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 8/28/2013 10:17 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
> On 8/27/2013 7:46 AM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 8/27/2013 5:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>>> On 8/27/2013 6:21 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>>> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>>> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>>>>>
>>>>> I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
>>>>> assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel,
>>>>> surrounded
>>>>> by (two layers of) border.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually
>>>>> similar;
>>>>> a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
>>>>> around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end
>>>>> piece to
>>>>> cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of
>>>>> the
>>>>> panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
>>>>>
>>>>> But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
>>>>>
>>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5882382031842824786
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
>>>>> opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the
>>>>> addition
>>>>> of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract
>>>>> the
>>>>> movement of the panel pieces?
>>>>
>>>> You do not want to frame a "solid wood" panel of any type in that
>>>> manner.
>>>>
>>>> You can get away with that type of framing in the photo when using a
>>>> veneered panel, made by gluing veneer on both sides of a dimensionally
>>>> stable substrate like MDF; or using some nicely figured plywood with
>>>> the
>>>> veneer of your choice within the frame.
>>>>
>>>> Because two sides of a "solid wood" framed panel are always going to be
>>>> "cross grain", you must make allowances for the inevitable cross grain
>>>> movement within any frame, like with a flat or raised panel door; or
>>>> with
>>>> breadboard ends on the two cross grain ends on a table top, etc.
>>>>
>>>> Also, be careful with the term "solid wood. In the commercial cabinet
>>>> and
>>>> furniture industry, plywood is considered "solid wood".
>>>>
>>> So the table top in the photo is veneer over some substrate?
>>
>> Nothing mysterious/exotic ... 3/4" A1 Walnut Plywood (Domestic),
>> selected and cut for best grain effect.
>>
> I'm curious. Does this mean that tables of similar design were not made
> before plywood (and chipboard, mdf, etc.) existed?
May be not, at least not with any great results. AAMOF plywood has been
around for thousands of years, the ancient Egyptians invented it IIRC.
On 8/27/2013 6:21 AM, Swingman wrote:
> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>>
>> I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
>> assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel, surrounded
>> by (two layers of) border.
>>
>> I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually similar;
>> a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
>> around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end piece to
>> cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of the
>> panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
>>
>> But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5882382031842824786
>>
>> Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
>> opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the addition
>> of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract the
>> movement of the panel pieces?
>
> You do not want to frame a "solid wood" panel of any type in that manner.
>
> You can get away with that type of framing in the photo when using a
> veneered panel, made by gluing veneer on both sides of a dimensionally
> stable substrate like MDF; or using some nicely figured plywood with the
> veneer of your choice within the frame.
>
> Because two sides of a "solid wood" framed panel are always going to be
> "cross grain", you must make allowances for the inevitable cross grain
> movement within any frame, like with a flat or raised panel door; or with
> breadboard ends on the two cross grain ends on a table top, etc.
>
> Also, be careful with the term "solid wood. In the commercial cabinet and
> furniture industry, plywood is considered "solid wood".
>
So the table top in the photo is veneer over some substrate?
On 8/27/2013 7:46 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 8/27/2013 5:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 8/27/2013 6:21 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>>>>
>>>> I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
>>>> assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel,
>>>> surrounded
>>>> by (two layers of) border.
>>>>
>>>> I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually
>>>> similar;
>>>> a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
>>>> around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end piece to
>>>> cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of the
>>>> panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
>>>>
>>>> But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
>>>>
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5882382031842824786
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
>>>> opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the addition
>>>> of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract
>>>> the
>>>> movement of the panel pieces?
>>>
>>> You do not want to frame a "solid wood" panel of any type in that
>>> manner.
>>>
>>> You can get away with that type of framing in the photo when using a
>>> veneered panel, made by gluing veneer on both sides of a dimensionally
>>> stable substrate like MDF; or using some nicely figured plywood with the
>>> veneer of your choice within the frame.
>>>
>>> Because two sides of a "solid wood" framed panel are always going to be
>>> "cross grain", you must make allowances for the inevitable cross grain
>>> movement within any frame, like with a flat or raised panel door; or
>>> with
>>> breadboard ends on the two cross grain ends on a table top, etc.
>>>
>>> Also, be careful with the term "solid wood. In the commercial cabinet
>>> and
>>> furniture industry, plywood is considered "solid wood".
>>>
>> So the table top in the photo is veneer over some substrate?
>
> Nothing mysterious/exotic ... 3/4" A1 Walnut Plywood (Domestic),
> selected and cut for best grain effect.
>
Ah. It's ply. Now I understand. Thanks.
On 8/27/2013 7:46 AM, Swingman wrote:
> On 8/27/2013 5:43 AM, Greg Guarino wrote:
>> On 8/27/2013 6:21 AM, Swingman wrote:
>>> Greg Guarino <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> On 7/12/2013 6:06 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>>>> Took long enough ... finally delivered this today:
>>>>
>>>> I've been wondering about this for a while. Your table top consists (I
>>>> assume) of two pieces of 3/4" solid wood glued up as a panel,
>>>> surrounded
>>>> by (two layers of) border.
>>>>
>>>> I have considered trying to make something that is conceptually
>>>> similar;
>>>> a table made of several slats of solid wood with some sort of border
>>>> around the edges. I have been advised against attaching an end piece to
>>>> cover the end grain of the main panel; expansion and contraction of the
>>>> panel boards will eventually break something, apparently.
>>>>
>>>> But in this (very nice) piece, I see exactly that:
>>>>
>>>> https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/EWoodShopGoldbergHallTable?noredirect=1#5882382031842824786
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Is it the full (four-sided) border that makes this OK somehow? (as
>>>> opposed to just covering the two end-grain edges). Or does the addition
>>>> of splines in the corners strengthen the border enough to counteract
>>>> the
>>>> movement of the panel pieces?
>>>
>>> You do not want to frame a "solid wood" panel of any type in that
>>> manner.
>>>
>>> You can get away with that type of framing in the photo when using a
>>> veneered panel, made by gluing veneer on both sides of a dimensionally
>>> stable substrate like MDF; or using some nicely figured plywood with the
>>> veneer of your choice within the frame.
>>>
>>> Because two sides of a "solid wood" framed panel are always going to be
>>> "cross grain", you must make allowances for the inevitable cross grain
>>> movement within any frame, like with a flat or raised panel door; or
>>> with
>>> breadboard ends on the two cross grain ends on a table top, etc.
>>>
>>> Also, be careful with the term "solid wood. In the commercial cabinet
>>> and
>>> furniture industry, plywood is considered "solid wood".
>>>
>> So the table top in the photo is veneer over some substrate?
>
> Nothing mysterious/exotic ... 3/4" A1 Walnut Plywood (Domestic),
> selected and cut for best grain effect.
>
I'm curious. Does this mean that tables of similar design were not made
before plywood (and chipboard, mdf, etc.) existed?
On Tue, 27 Aug 2013 10:28:33 -0400, Greg Guarino <[email protected]>
wrote:
>> Nothing mysterious/exotic ... 3/4" A1 Walnut Plywood (Domestic),
>> selected and cut for best grain effect.
>>
>Ah. It's ply. Now I understand. Thanks.
Don't be afraid to use plywood in the right application. It can look
every bit as good as the solid wood and be more stable. It woks well
with a solid wood edge trim.
On 3/21/2013 9:28 AM, Leon wrote:
> So how does that stuff work for you, Sam Maloof finish?
Been using it for years (coffee table, lamp, lamp table, hall tables,
end tables, hope chest ... have all been finished that type of finish
... basically anything made of walnut or cherry)... apply with a rag,
wipe off with a rag ... only thing difficult about applying the finish
is the time it takes ... each coat is 24 hours between.
The last coat is like applying a coat of wax in that you do have to put
some elbow grease into buffing by hand ... but you can apparently get
that by the truckload from ATOH. ;)
Four coats of the poly/oil, two coats of the poly/oil/wax ... six days
added to the delivery time.
> The walnut is looking really good! Any Arkansas walnut mixed in?
Yep, the frame for the inlay will be Uncle Tete's (RIP) AR walnut ...
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 3/20/2013 5:37 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 3/20/13 5:18 PM, Swingman wrote:
>> On 3/19/2013 6:33 PM, Swingman wrote:
>>
>>> The finish on this iteration of a walnut and cherry hall table is, as
>>> always, a hand-rubbed oil/poly/wax finish, a la Sam Maloof.
>>
>> First coat of that finish on the aprons and legs:
>>
>> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I4YEYdg7trtze0LawwWlMdMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
>>
>>
>>
>
> Very good, very good. The paint should stick well to that.
Yep, after a couple coats of BIN ... and that walnut faux grain paint
should complete the picture as a sheer work of art, you reckon?
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)