I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
of the original finish as possible.
We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
looking like the surrounding finish.
I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
will soak in and darken the wood.
We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
some protection and shine to the floor.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Jay and Kelli
Everyone, thanks for your replies!
FYI, the Pam and WD-40 did not work,
but the Pam left a nice shiny finish and
a buttery smell :)
The alcohol removed the stain and the finish.
We will try the steel wool and MS tomorrow.
Either way, the finish is "unsound" and needs
repair. I am thinking another coat of shellac
will do the trick. I'll let ya know how things
develop.
[email protected] wrote:
> I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
> and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
> some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
> look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
> of the original finish as possible.
>
> We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
> but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
> completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
> They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
> looking like the surrounding finish.
IF the surface is shellac, white stains could be from water. Try very
fine steel wool on those. Some waxes will turn white with food stains
on them, as well.
>
> I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
> bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
> if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
> will soak in and darken the wood.
Don't use water.
>
> We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
> to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
Blue 3M scrubber might work. May want to start with less abrasive one,
if there is one. I don't recall how many varieties there are.
>
> Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
> some protection and shine to the floor.
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?
> Jay and Kelli
>
An old book on finishing pianos tells of using multiple coats of shellac
to build a glassy coating, with varnish on top for protection from water
and alcohol, both of which will leave rings on shellac. If you get down
to the old coating, a couple of coats of real varnish might be good.
Mineral spririts to remove all wax, first. Fine steel wool with mineral
spirits may dull the shellac finish, but a final finish of whatever
gloss you like should even it out. Be sure to wipe up all steel wool
particles, and let ms dry well.
On 11 Jun 2005 12:55:39 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
>and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
>some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
>look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
>of the original finish as possible.
>
>We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
>but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
>completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
>They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
>looking like the surrounding finish.
>
>I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
>bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
>if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
>will soak in and darken the wood.
>
>We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
>to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
>
>Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
>some protection and shine to the floor.
>
>Any ideas or suggestions?
>Jay and Kelli
Scrape the padding off with whatever works best - I've used regular
paint scrapers with good effect as long as you are *very* careful of
the corners of the scraper. Once the pad is removed rent a floor
sander and take it all down to bare wood (there is no finish left in
the traffic areas, that is why the water soaks in) before applying
your favorite floor finish.
IMO, trying to preserve any of the old finish on a floor that will
actually be used is a waste of time.
--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"
Tim Douglass
http://www.DouglassClan.com
On 11 Jun 2005 12:55:39 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
>but it is not coming off too easily.
I used one of these
http://www.ww2incolor.com/gallery/albums/British/churchill_mk_7_crocodile.sized.jpg
Don't laugh at this idea...try some Pam the kitchen spray...you see I sell
hotwheels on ebay and some of the price stickers from some of the older ones
that I bought were a bear to remove without damaging the card and just a
little pam on a rag and gently rub and the glue comes off the cardboard and
the clear plastic that the hotwheel is displayed in...works every time
Tina
"BoborAnn" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I've used WD 40 many times to remove all sorts of glue you might test an
> inconspicuous area and see if that works
> Bob
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
> > and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
> > some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
> > look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
> > of the original finish as possible.
> >
> > We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
> > but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
> > completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
> > They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
> > looking like the surrounding finish.
> >
> > I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
> > bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
> > if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
> > will soak in and darken the wood.
> >
> > We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
> > to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
> >
> > Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
> > some protection and shine to the floor.
> >
> > Any ideas or suggestions?
> > Jay and Kelli
> >
>
>
Scrape off the gunk. Sand to bare wood. Refinish.
Now that you've used mineral spirits on some areas, you'll
need to do the above to get a consistent finish. No way
around it.
<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected]...
> I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
> and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
> some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
> look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
> of the original finish as possible.
>
> We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
> but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
> completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
> They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
> looking like the surrounding finish.
>
> I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
> bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
> if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
> will soak in and darken the wood.
>
> We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
> to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
>
> Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
> some protection and shine to the floor.
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?
> Jay and Kelli
>
[email protected] wrote in news:1118519739.034012.114590
@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
> I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
> and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
> some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
> look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
> of the original finish as possible.
> ...
>
> Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
> some protection and shine to the floor.
Been there, done that-- we've removed all the carpet from our 1958
house, five rooms and several hallways. The previous owners were
idiots and glued carpet pad to the oak floors; several rooms had more
than one later of carpet (topping out at three laters plus two pads
for a nearly 2" floor). As others have said, you're much better off
scraping and refinishing the floors than trying to save the existing
finish.
With the glued-down pads we ended up using a floor scraper, like
you'd use to rip up tile. Used carefully it was possible to remove
the pads without gouging the flooring, but small scratches were
common. This left a layer of adhesive that had to be removed, in
addition to the remains of the original varnish. We rented the
Varathane rotary floor sander, which is essentially a triple-head
random orbit sander with a vacuum attached. It actually worked pretty
well and we were able to run through three grits in a 12x14' room in
half a day. The corners I sanded with my 5" Bosch ROS to the same
grit. Even with the vacuum system it's a dusty process.
We refinshed the floors with the water-based Varathane satin finish.
It worked great, went down easily, and looks like a new floor. We've
only had this done for about six months so I can't comment on wear,
but if it lasts I'll be delighted. The only spots on the floor that
look bad are a few places where the wood is stained from my attempts
to use a 3M carpet adhesive removal product, which is what the local
flooring folks suggested to use on the carpet adhesive. It didn't
work at all; the mechanical approach was clearly better, though
dusty.
-kiwanda
On 11 Jun 2005 12:55:39 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
>to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
I removed a fair amount of carpet in my house when I bought it, and
used a hunk of pine scrap to scrape the black gunk off the floor
afterwards. Worked pretty well, and didn't damage the finish- though
the floors were maple, not pine.
>Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
>some protection and shine to the floor.
>
>Any ideas or suggestions?
>Jay and Kelli
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
> and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
> some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
> look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
> of the original finish as possible.
(snip)
You have my sympathy. About ten years ago I had to do the same thing except
the kind soul who installed the carpet (It was in one piece and even went
into the kitchen, laundry and toilet!) actually glued it to the floor. I
tried any number of solvents, the only thing that would disolve the glue was
petrol (gasoline). The scraper I used was a spade. I managed to do one room
but gave up on the idea and just put linoleum down and then we sold the
house.
After that I suggested to my local MP that there be an amendment to the
criminal code to create a new offence 'Criminal Renovation' penalty 15
years.
Mekon
Put a drop of alcohol on the floor and test it for softening in a few
minutes to confirm it is shellac. If it is use alcohol to remove the
shellac under the padding. Shellac and lacquer melt previous coats
forming a single coat of finish unlike varnish that builds layers of
finish as it doesn't melt previous coats. When floor is clean I'd use
dewaxed shellac as the finish as it was used for years prior to
varnish. Easy repair unlike varnish. It can be obtained in several
"colors" depending on steps during processing. Look for the color
variations of shellac at www.homesteadfinishing.com
On 11 Jun 2005 12:55:39 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
>and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
>some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
>look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
>of the original finish as possible.
>
>We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
>but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
>completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
>They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
>looking like the surrounding finish.
>
>I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
>bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
>if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
>will soak in and darken the wood.
>
>We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
>to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
>
>Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
>some protection and shine to the floor.
>
>Any ideas or suggestions?
>Jay and Kelli
I've used WD 40 many times to remove all sorts of glue you might test an
inconspicuous area and see if that works
Bob
<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
> and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
> some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
> look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
> of the original finish as possible.
>
> We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
> but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
> completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
> They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
> looking like the surrounding finish.
>
> I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
> bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
> if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
> will soak in and darken the wood.
>
> We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
> to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
>
> Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
> some protection and shine to the floor.
>
> Any ideas or suggestions?
> Jay and Kelli
>
Did you use the sander after getting what you could of hte padding
off?
I have parts that look like they are now part of hte wood floor &
almost impossible to remove w/ a metal scrapper.
IJ've been busting by back for 3 days now. Still in the living room.
:crybaby:
I was able to remove everything from the bedrooms. Although the hall
& living room have become one w/ the floor. LOL
Sick of scrapping ..............
> Kiwandawrote:
[email protected] wrote in news:1118519739.034012.114590
> @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>
> I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
> and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
> some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
> look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
> of the original finish as possible.
> ...
>
> Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
> some protection and shine to the floor.
>
Been there, done that-- we've removed all the carpet from our 1958
house, five rooms and several hallways. The previous owners were
idiots and glued carpet pad to the oak floors; several rooms had more
than one later of carpet (topping out at three laters plus two pads
for a nearly 2" floor). As others have said, you're much better
off
scraping and refinishing the floors than trying to save the existing
finish.
With the glued-down pads we ended up using a floor scraper, like
you'd use to rip up tile. Used carefully it was possible to remove
the pads without gouging the flooring, but small scratches were
common. This left a layer of adhesive that had to be removed, in
addition to the remains of the original varnish. We rented the
Varathane rotary floor sander, which is essentially a triple-head
random orbit sander with a vacuum attached. It actually worked pretty
well and we were able to run through three grits in a 12x14' room in
half a day. The corners I sanded with my 5" Bosch ROS to the same
grit. Even with the vacuum system it's a dusty process.
We refinshed the floors with the water-based Varathane satin finish.
It worked great, went down easily, and looks like a new floor. We've
only had this done for about six months so I can't comment on wear,
but if it lasts I'll be delighted. The only spots on the floor that
look bad are a few places where the wood is stained from my attempts
to use a 3M carpet adhesive removal product, which is what the local
flooring folks suggested to use on the carpet adhesive. It didn't
work at all; the mechanical approach was clearly better, though
dusty.
-kiwanda[/quote:71817219e7]
try Goo-Gone; I have used it to remove old duct tape gum from a wood floor.
Goo-Gone is to gum removal what WD40 is to stuck bolts....
http://www.magicamerican.com/googone.shtml
------------------------------------------
"Rick" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Scrape off the gunk. Sand to bare wood. Refinish.
>
> Now that you've used mineral spirits on some areas, you'll
> need to do the above to get a consistent finish. No way
> around it.
>
> <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> I have an old (1912) house with pine or fir wood floors
>> and I think shellac finish over stain. We just removed
>> some ~20 year old carpet and padding, and the floor doesn't
>> look too horrible, so we would like to preserve as much
>> of the original finish as possible.
>>
>> We are using mineral spirits to remove the gummy pad stains,
>> but it is not coming off too easily. We have about a 1x4' area
>> completed in 3 hours, and you can still see some of the spots.
>> They even seem to look grey or white (dried out) instead of
>> looking like the surrounding finish.
>>
>> I tested the finish with water, and in the corners it will
>> bead up with no white spots, so I do not think there is much
>> if any wax buildup. The high traffic areas do not bead, but
>> will soak in and darken the wood.
>>
>> We have tried plastic scrapers to no avail. Fingernails seem
>> to do the best job. Acetone removes the finish and lightens the wood.
>>
>> Eventually we would like to apply a coat of paste wax to add
>> some protection and shine to the floor.
>>
>> Any ideas or suggestions?
>> Jay and Kelli
>>
>
>