Hello all,
I am considering the following used table saw:
Craftsman model #113.298750
10" Contractor table saw
15 Amp, 110V/220V (wired for 110)
Jet Xacta Fence 30" with extension table (another wing is included
but not installed)
cast-iron table and wings
mobile base
new condition
$325
The guy selling it says that it was only used for about a year or so and has
been sitting since (about 8 years) but is in new condition. I'm sure that
the fence alone would justify a majority of the asking price, but this will
be my first/learning saw and has to last me for a few years before SWMBO
will authorize another one - yes I know I'm whipped.
I can find no info online about that model (I checked sears.com and Google
it) other than that the "113" part signifies Emerson-built. Is anyone
familiar with this model? Is it belt-drive or direct (I forgot to ask him
when I had him on the phone)?
I have seen threads that praise "older" Craftsman saw, but is 10 years old
too old or too young to fall into the "good" category?
I am told to consider the arbor bearings and trunnions when purchasing a
used table saw. What do I look for? How do I determine their condition?
Assuming this item really is in new condition (and that this will be my
first/learning saw), I would really appreciate in advice, info or caveats
you folks could offer.
Thanks.
>
> I can find no info online about that model (I checked sears.com and Google
> it) other than that the "113" part signifies Emerson-built. Is anyone
> familiar with this model? Is it belt-drive or direct (I forgot to ask him
> when I had him on the phone)?
I would normally tell you to walk if it were a direct drive saw... BUT I
will hold that comment for now.
>
> I have seen threads that praise "older" Craftsman saw, but is 10 years old
> too old or too young to fall into the "good" category?
>
Much Much too young... pre 1970 in general is what I think are the GOOD
Craftsman years....
> I am told to consider the arbor bearings and trunnions when purchasing a
> used table saw. What do I look for? How do I determine their condition?
>
IF indeed the saw has one years usage I doubt if there is any wear on the
bearings... just check for any play that you can actually feel...
> Assuming this item really is in new condition (and that this will be my
> first/learning saw), I would really appreciate in advice, info or caveats
> you folks could offer.
This is your first Table Saw...and you are interested in learning on this
saw...Correct ?
I look at it this way...for $325 bucks you can play with it
for a year and you should be able to sell it for $200 bucks
at least...or maybe the $325 you would be paying for it...
SO at most you are risking 125 bucks... To my way of thinking that is
about what taking my wife out for dinner and drinks would cost...damn cheap
If is is a direct drive saw I may still tell you to walk... BUT for a risk
factor of 125 bucks I may tell you just buy it and
learn...If it is a belt drive just write the check...
Bob Griffiths
"Bob G" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> >
> > If is is a direct drive saw I may still tell you to walk... BUT for a risk
> factor of 125 bucks I may tell you just buy it and
> learn...If it is a belt drive just write the check...
>
> Bob Griffiths
I would think a contractors saw that can be wired for 110 or 220 would
be belt driven.
Sounds like a pretty good saw to me.
I have a 113.XXXXXXXX crafsman T/S and it is pretty decent.
Thanks, Tony D.
If this is your first TS and you are relative new to woodworking, this is
probably a pretty good deal for a starter saw. Basically you propaply will
not want to still be using this saw a few years down the road, maybe you
will, but the price is not too high if you loose interest. I worked with a
similar set up for 17 years before graduating to a cabinet saw. The fence
is worth half the asking price of the whole set up. Just be sure to tune it
up after you get it.