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Anyone who owns one, knows how fine the grade of the wheel is. I had a =
couple of tools that were really out of kilter, Skew and a gouge. They =
really had to have some meat removed to true them up. Well, I haven't a =
grinder, except for the tormek. I was getting very frustrated with the =
amount of time I was spending at the wheel, I mean an hour with another =
to go, if not more. So as I sit back taking a brake and thinking about =
getting a grinder. I dawns on me to true up the stone and let it dry for =
a while. After it was dry, I went to the cabinet and got a roll of 120 =
grit adhesive backed sandpaper and proceeded to wrap the dry wheel and =
overlap about 4 in.. Other than the slight bump, it was planed true in =
minutes and ready for the real wheel to fine tune. Anyone see anything =
wrong with this method. If not , I hope others will benefit from this =
idea and also save on a grinder for those problematic tools. Also it =
turns so slow that there is not a chance of taking the temper out of the =
steel with the proper handling.
Good luck to all,
Richard O'
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<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" color=3D#000080>Anyone who owns =
one, knows how=20
fine the grade of the wheel is. I had a couple of tools that were really =
out of=20
kilter, Skew and a gouge. They really had to have some meat removed to =
true them=20
up. Well, I haven't a grinder, except for the tormek. I was getting very =
frustrated with the amount of time I was spending at the wheel, I mean =
an hour=20
with another to go, if not more. So as I sit back taking a brake and =
thinking=20
about getting a grinder. I dawns on me to true up the stone and let it =
dry for a=20
while. After it was dry, I went to the cabinet and got a roll of 120 =
grit=20
adhesive backed sandpaper and proceeded to wrap the dry wheel and =
overlap about=20
4 in.. Other than the slight bump, it was planed true in minutes and =
ready for=20
the real wheel to fine tune. Anyone see anything wrong with this method. =
If not=20
, I hope others will benefit from this idea and also save on a grinder =
for those=20
problematic tools. Also it turns so slow that there is not a chance of =
taking=20
the temper out of the steel with the proper handling.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" color=3D#000080>Good luck to =
all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Bookman Old Style" color=3D#000080>Richard=20
O'</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 18:42:32 -0500, "Gepitto" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Anyone who owns one, knows how fine the grade of the wheel is. I had a couple of tools that were really out of kilter, Skew and a gouge.
>They really had to have some meat removed to true them up. Well, I haven't a grinder, except for the tormek. I was getting very frustrated
> with the amount of time I was spending at the wheel, I mean an hour with another to go, if not more. So as I sit back taking a brake and
> thinking about getting a grinder. I dawns on me to true up the stone and let it dry for a while. After it was dry, I went to the cabinet and got
>a roll of 120 grit adhesive backed sandpaper and proceeded to wrap the dry wheel and overlap about 4 in.. Other than the slight bump, it
>was planed true in minutes and ready for the real wheel to fine tune. Anyone see anything wrong with this method. If not , I hope others will
>benefit from this idea and also save on a grinder for those problematic tools. Also it turns so slow that there is not a chance of taking the
> temper out of the steel with the proper handling.
>Good luck to all,
>Richard O'
I can't imagine there'd be a problem. The Tormek itself is so slow
speed, water or not, it's not going to burn the steel very quickly, if
at all.
For the situations you describe, I use my belt sander. Though to be
honest, I've never had to consider using that for a curved edge tool
like a gouge (turning or carving)
Thanks for the idea