<sorry it's so long, but I need to explain myself. if you're a
TLDR-type, it'd be a good idea to move on. thanks for stopping.)
I have decided I'm going to 'modularize' my place some, for lack of a
better word.
I want to make some boxes that I can stack that will act like
bookshelves, or dressers, or pretty much anything that stores things but
lets me still have handy access to the stuff inside. (not unlike a
college student uses milk crates, but nicer. sturdier. looks good in
different configurations. and strong enuf to stand on. not that I will,
but stacked four or five tall full of books will weigh at least what I
do. and that's saying something.)
Could you point me to some websites and videos that will answer some
questions and show me how to do some stuff?
I see the basic questions are:
1-how to make a good, strong, easy corner joint, and
2-how to easily cut the panels.
Oh, and how to cut out the hand holds, but I think I can do that with a
jigsaw, right?
But to round the edges, I'll need a router I think. Simply sanding will
not get the edges round enuf.
Is there a way to get 3/4" plywood round without a router? (not simply
not-sharp, but round-round.)
What kind of corner would be strong and easy, and how to make it? Do I
have to make a dove tail to be strongest? or maybe pocket screws are
good enuf? 45 degree butt joint? bisquits? ahhhh!!!
How strong is a 90-degree butt joint, glued, with screws? Is that pretty
permanent? I wouldn't think it would look all that nice with screws tho.
I wouldn't mind getting a jig for pocket screws. Are they fairly easy to
do on a 12" or 15"-wide panel? I've only seen them done on a 4" plank.
How do I cut a 4'x8' piece of plywood into a bunch of squares? A handsaw
is out (how tedious would that be?) I've used a circular saw
way-back-when in projects with my dad. Nothing recent tho, and I doubt
my ability to make long straight cuts with one. Norm Abram on New Yankee
Workshop*** uses his table saw all the time on practically every
project. Is a table saw one of the most basic tools to have?
I've got a decent drill so screws aren't a problem
Well, anyway, enuf. What websites can I visit to get a handle on what I
need to do?
Thanks for the help
(and sorry it's so long. I just need a place to start.)
Lance
*** I know, I know, you're saying 'oh man! a newbie who got inspired and
wants to get to it right away, but will quit in a week. Stop wasting my
time.'
Well, I've been thinking about this a while, and I'm not going to go out
tomorrow and spend a thousand bucks only to dump it when I find out my
back hurts from bending over. I expect that, and my back's fine. (its
the knees that don't like to bend...but that's a different story.)
I'm good with my hands, and like to build things. But this is the first
largish project in wood, thus why I'm asking.
In fact, if it turns out I have some aptitude and like what I make, I'll
probably make another project or two, and even keep going as long as the
inspiration lasts.
And, yeah, I know, Norm's videos only cover the barest basics, they're
at least weeks worth of work by a very experienced carpenter all
squeezed into less than half an hour. he may cover my project in, maybe,
5 min.
On 5/17/2014 12:47 AM, SuperVHS wrote:
>> I want to make some boxes that I can stack
>
> Thanks for the help everyone! It's given me a good idea where to go.
>
> Lets see if I got this.
>
> I like the idea of tansu, and those look great. These won't be that
> detailed but it might be something for the future.
>
> I looked at track saws, but oh man expensive. I might start with a
> circular saw that I can get for cheap (but with a good blade) and make a
> guide myself. The cuts I can't get the shop to do anyway.
> If things go well and I like what I'm doing, then I'll get a table saw.
> Make sure I like it, but I do like making things so I don't think
> that'll be an issue.
> Btw, what blade, or type of blade, do you recommend?
>
Take a look at the Grizzly track saws, way less expensive.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Track-Saw/T10687
And a review which I have not read.
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/grizzly-track-saw-review/
On Tuesday, May 13, 2014 4:04:38 AM UTC-5, SuperVHS wrote:
> <sorry it's so long, but I need to explain myself. if you're a
>
> TLDR-type, it'd be a good idea to move on. thanks for stopping.)
>
>
>
> I have decided I'm going to 'modularize' my place some, for lack of a
>
> better word.
>
> I want to make some boxes that I can stack that will act like
>
> bookshelves, or dressers, or pretty much anything that stores things but
>
> lets me still have handy access to the stuff inside. (not unlike a
>
> college student uses milk crates, but nicer. sturdier. looks good in
>
> different configurations. and strong enuf to stand on. not that I will,
>
> but stacked four or five tall full of books will weigh at least what I
>
> do. and that's saying something.)
>
>
>
> Could you point me to some websites and videos that will answer some
>
> questions and show me how to do some stuff?
>
>
>
> I see the basic questions are:
>
> 1-how to make a good, strong, easy corner joint, and
>
> 2-how to easily cut the panels.
>
> Oh, and how to cut out the hand holds, but I think I can do that with a
>
> jigsaw, right?
>
> But to round the edges, I'll need a router I think. Simply sanding will
>
> not get the edges round enuf.
>
> Is there a way to get 3/4" plywood round without a router? (not simply
>
> not-sharp, but round-round.)
>
>
>
> What kind of corner would be strong and easy, and how to make it? Do I
>
> have to make a dove tail to be strongest? or maybe pocket screws are
>
> good enuf? 45 degree butt joint? bisquits? ahhhh!!!
>
> How strong is a 90-degree butt joint, glued, with screws? Is that pretty
>
> permanent? I wouldn't think it would look all that nice with screws tho.
>
> I wouldn't mind getting a jig for pocket screws. Are they fairly easy to
>
> do on a 12" or 15"-wide panel? I've only seen them done on a 4" plank.
>
>
>
> How do I cut a 4'x8' piece of plywood into a bunch of squares? A handsaw
>
> is out (how tedious would that be?) I've used a circular saw
>
> way-back-when in projects with my dad. Nothing recent tho, and I doubt
>
> my ability to make long straight cuts with one. Norm Abram on New Yankee
>
> Workshop*** uses his table saw all the time on practically every
>
> project. Is a table saw one of the most basic tools to have?
>
>
>
> I've got a decent drill so screws aren't a problem
>
>
>
> Well, anyway, enuf. What websites can I visit to get a handle on what I
>
> need to do?
>
>
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> (and sorry it's so long. I just need a place to start.)
>
>
>
> Lance
>
>
>
> *** I know, I know, you're saying 'oh man! a newbie who got inspired and
>
> wants to get to it right away, but will quit in a week. Stop wasting my
>
> time.'
>
> Well, I've been thinking about this a while, and I'm not going to go out
>
> tomorrow and spend a thousand bucks only to dump it when I find out my
>
> back hurts from bending over. I expect that, and my back's fine. (its
>
> the knees that don't like to bend...but that's a different story.)
>
> I'm good with my hands, and like to build things. But this is the first
>
> largish project in wood, thus why I'm asking.
>
> In fact, if it turns out I have some aptitude and like what I make, I'll
>
> probably make another project or two, and even keep going as long as the
>
> inspiration lasts.
>
> And, yeah, I know, Norm's videos only cover the barest basics, they're
>
> at least weeks worth of work by a very experienced carpenter all
>
> squeezed into less than half an hour. he may cover my project in, maybe,
>
> 5 min.
A lot of people are making plyometric boxes for Crossfit these days. You can
google those terms to get some ideas. Here's an example.
http://josephhinson.com/2011/04/18/plans-for-building-a-20x24x30-crossfit-plyo-box-with-pdf-download/
To follow up: I found a video on youtube where a guy builds a basic
bookshelf, just a big box really, with pocket hole joints and he just
screws the back on.
It looks relatively easy, but of course he had the whole workshop, and
he had a table saw to cut the big pieces.
I think this might be my place to start, just cutting the hand holes and
the big sides.
SuperVHS <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
*snip*
> I looked at track saws, but oh man expensive. I might start with a
> circular saw that I can get for cheap (but with a good blade) and make
> a guide myself. The cuts I can't get the shop to do anyway.
> If things go well and I like what I'm doing, then I'll get a table
> saw. Make sure I like it, but I do like making things so I don't think
> that'll be an issue.
> Btw, what blade, or type of blade, do you recommend?
Go with the 7 1/4" saw & blade. They are extremely common, and you've
got options if you need it. Most saws come with a blade that will get
you started. Carbide tipped is the way to go.
Saw guides are available from a couple different places as well. It's
easier and nicer than making one out of wood or angle iron, as you don't
have to fuss with multiple clamps.
> Looks like I'll need a router from the start. I don't fancy carrying a
> bunch of books with only sanded edges. And the router template is a
> good idea.
>
You may still have to sand those routed edges. ;-)
> Did I catch everything? Anything else you'd like to add?
When I was cutting lattice, I put a piece of cheap foam on the floor and
set the blade to just barely cut through the lattice. It worked great
as the pieces didn't go anywhere, and if you don't have sawhorses or a
table this could be a very cheap way to get some cutting support.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
"Dr. Deb" wrote:
The absolute easiest, and strong to boot, is the lock butt joint. Its
self squaring, has lot of glue surface and is easy to make AND it can
all be done without any blade changes.
All you have to remember is that the inside if the front and back to
TOWARD the rip fence. The "How" is simple. You simply set your
fence at 1/4" and raise your blade to the material thickness, usually
3/4" (if your material is thinner, adjust accordingly). Rip a 1/4 x
3/4" dado on both ends of the front and back. Lower your blade to
3/8" and and run both ends of the front and back through, with the
INDSIDE DOWN. Finally, cut a 1/4 x 3/8" dado in both ends of the
side pieces with INSIDE DOWN. Cut your bottom panel dado and you are
ready for assembly.
---------------------------------------------
Want an arguement?
Change the subject.
A table saw, a good fence, and a quality blade.
The rest is history.
Lew
On Tuesday, May 13, 2014 4:04:38 AM UTC-5, SuperVHS wrote:
> <sorry it's so long, but I need to explain myself. if you're a
>
> TLDR-type, it'd be a good idea to move on. thanks for stopping.)
>
>
>
> I have decided I'm going to 'modularize' my place some, for lack of a
>
> better word.
>
> I want to make some boxes that I can stack that will act like
>
> bookshelves, or dressers, or pretty much anything that stores things but
>
> lets me still have handy access to the stuff inside. (not unlike a
>
> college student uses milk crates, but nicer. sturdier. looks good in
>
> different configurations. and strong enuf to stand on. not that I will,
>
> but stacked four or five tall full of books will weigh at least what I
>
> do. and that's saying something.)
>
>
>
> Could you point me to some websites and videos that will answer some
>
> questions and show me how to do some stuff?
>
>
>
> I see the basic questions are:
>
> 1-how to make a good, strong, easy corner joint, and
>
> 2-how to easily cut the panels.
>
> Oh, and how to cut out the hand holds, but I think I can do that with a
>
> jigsaw, right?
>
> But to round the edges, I'll need a router I think. Simply sanding will
>
> not get the edges round enuf.
>
> Is there a way to get 3/4" plywood round without a router? (not simply
>
> not-sharp, but round-round.)
>
>
>
> What kind of corner would be strong and easy, and how to make it? Do I
>
> have to make a dove tail to be strongest? or maybe pocket screws are
>
> good enuf? 45 degree butt joint? bisquits? ahhhh!!!
>
> How strong is a 90-degree butt joint, glued, with screws? Is that pretty
>
> permanent? I wouldn't think it would look all that nice with screws tho.
>
> I wouldn't mind getting a jig for pocket screws. Are they fairly easy to
>
> do on a 12" or 15"-wide panel? I've only seen them done on a 4" plank.
>
>
>
> How do I cut a 4'x8' piece of plywood into a bunch of squares? A handsaw
>
> is out (how tedious would that be?) I've used a circular saw
>
> way-back-when in projects with my dad. Nothing recent tho, and I doubt
>
> my ability to make long straight cuts with one. Norm Abram on New Yankee
>
> Workshop*** uses his table saw all the time on practically every
>
> project. Is a table saw one of the most basic tools to have?
>
>
>
> I've got a decent drill so screws aren't a problem
>
>
>
> Well, anyway, enuf. What websites can I visit to get a handle on what I
>
> need to do?
>
>
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> (and sorry it's so long. I just need a place to start.)
>
>
>
> Lance
>
>
>
> *** I know, I know, you're saying 'oh man! a newbie who got inspired and
>
> wants to get to it right away, but will quit in a week. Stop wasting my
>
> time.'
>
> Well, I've been thinking about this a while, and I'm not going to go out
>
> tomorrow and spend a thousand bucks only to dump it when I find out my
>
> back hurts from bending over. I expect that, and my back's fine. (its
>
> the knees that don't like to bend...but that's a different story.)
>
> I'm good with my hands, and like to build things. But this is the first
>
> largish project in wood, thus why I'm asking.
>
> In fact, if it turns out I have some aptitude and like what I make, I'll
>
> probably make another project or two, and even keep going as long as the
>
> inspiration lasts.
>
> And, yeah, I know, Norm's videos only cover the barest basics, they're
>
> at least weeks worth of work by a very experienced carpenter all
>
> squeezed into less than half an hour. he may cover my project in, maybe,
>
> 5 min.
The absolute easiest, and strong to boot, is the lock butt joint. Its self squaring, has lot of glue surface and is easy to make. All you have to remember is that the inside if the front and back to TOWARD
>I want to make some boxes that I can stack
Thanks for the help everyone! It's given me a good idea where to go.
Lets see if I got this.
I like the idea of tansu, and those look great. These won't be that
detailed but it might be something for the future.
I looked at track saws, but oh man expensive. I might start with a
circular saw that I can get for cheap (but with a good blade) and make a
guide myself. The cuts I can't get the shop to do anyway.
If things go well and I like what I'm doing, then I'll get a table saw.
Make sure I like it, but I do like making things so I don't think
that'll be an issue.
Btw, what blade, or type of blade, do you recommend?
Looks like I'll need a router from the start. I don't fancy carrying a
bunch of books with only sanded edges. And the router template is a good
idea.
I'm certainly not against buying hardware. (you should see my computer
desk! hard drives, keyboards, wires all over the place.) I just don't
want to waste money just in case I don't like it and drop this in a
month.
Since a lot of it will be books, then heavier wood is called for. 3/4"
ply for the sides, and probably 1/2" for the back.
Internal bracing is pretty much out tho. Some of these books are pretty
big and need all the corner space they can get. What I'll probably do is
overengineer the back connection with more screws than usual. That
should be strong enuf (shouldn't it?)
I'm leaning toward pocket hole joints. That'll get rid of the bracing,
then look strong, and for some reason I just think they're cool.
Did I catch everything? Anything else you'd like to add?
On Tuesday, May 13, 2014 4:04:38 AM UTC-5, SuperVHS wrote:
> <sorry it's so long, but I need to explain myself. if you're a
>=20
> TLDR-type, it'd be a good idea to move on. thanks for stopping.)
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I have decided I'm going to 'modularize' my place some, for lack of a
>=20
> better word.
>=20
> I want to make some boxes that I can stack that will act like
>=20
> bookshelves, or dressers, or pretty much anything that stores things but
>=20
> lets me still have handy access to the stuff inside. (not unlike a
>=20
> college student uses milk crates, but nicer. sturdier. looks good in
>=20
> different configurations. and strong enuf to stand on. not that I will,
>=20
> but stacked four or five tall full of books will weigh at least what I
>=20
> do. and that's saying something.)=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Could you point me to some websites and videos that will answer some
>=20
> questions and show me how to do some stuff?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I see the basic questions are:
>=20
> 1-how to make a good, strong, easy corner joint, and
>=20
> 2-how to easily cut the panels.
>=20
> Oh, and how to cut out the hand holds, but I think I can do that with a
>=20
> jigsaw, right?
>=20
> But to round the edges, I'll need a router I think. Simply sanding will
>=20
> not get the edges round enuf.
>=20
> Is there a way to get 3/4" plywood round without a router? (not simply
>=20
> not-sharp, but round-round.)
>=20
>=20
>=20
> What kind of corner would be strong and easy, and how to make it? Do I
>=20
> have to make a dove tail to be strongest? or maybe pocket screws are
>=20
> good enuf? 45 degree butt joint? bisquits? ahhhh!!!
>=20
> How strong is a 90-degree butt joint, glued, with screws? Is that pretty
>=20
> permanent? I wouldn't think it would look all that nice with screws tho.
>=20
> I wouldn't mind getting a jig for pocket screws. Are they fairly easy to
>=20
> do on a 12" or 15"-wide panel? I've only seen them done on a 4" plank.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> How do I cut a 4'x8' piece of plywood into a bunch of squares? A handsaw
>=20
> is out (how tedious would that be?) I've used a circular saw
>=20
> way-back-when in projects with my dad. Nothing recent tho, and I doubt
>=20
> my ability to make long straight cuts with one. Norm Abram on New Yankee
>=20
> Workshop*** uses his table saw all the time on practically every
>=20
> project. Is a table saw one of the most basic tools to have?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> I've got a decent drill so screws aren't a problem
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Well, anyway, enuf. What websites can I visit to get a handle on what I
>=20
> need to do?
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Thanks for the help
>=20
> (and sorry it's so long. I just need a place to start.)
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Lance
>=20
>=20
>=20
> *** I know, I know, you're saying 'oh man! a newbie who got inspired and
>=20
> wants to get to it right away, but will quit in a week. Stop wasting my
>=20
> time.'
>=20
> Well, I've been thinking about this a while, and I'm not going to go out
>=20
> tomorrow and spend a thousand bucks only to dump it when I find out my
>=20
> back hurts from bending over. I expect that, and my back's fine. (its
>=20
> the knees that don't like to bend...but that's a different story.)
>=20
> I'm good with my hands, and like to build things. But this is the first
>=20
> largish project in wood, thus why I'm asking.
>=20
> In fact, if it turns out I have some aptitude and like what I make, I'll
>=20
> probably make another project or two, and even keep going as long as the
>=20
> inspiration lasts.
>=20
> And, yeah, I know, Norm's videos only cover the barest basics, they're
>=20
> at least weeks worth of work by a very experienced carpenter all
>=20
> squeezed into less than half an hour. he may cover my project in, maybe,
>=20
> 5 min.
The absolute easiest, and strong to boot, is the lock butt joint. Its self=
squaring, has lot of glue surface and is easy to make AND it can all be do=
ne without any blade changes.
All you have to remember is that the inside if the front and back to TOWA=
RD the rip fence. The "How" is simple. You simply set your fence at 1/4"=
and raise your blade to the material thickness, usually 3/4" (if your mate=
rial is thinner, adjust accordingly). Rip a 1/4 x 3/4" dado on both ends o=
f the front and back. Lower your blade to 3/8" and and run both ends of t=
he front and back through, with the INDSIDE DOWN. Finally, cut a 1/4 x 3/8=
" dado in both ends of the side pieces with INSIDE DOWN. Cut your bottom =
panel dado and you are ready for assembly.
On Sat, 17 May 2014 00:47:56 -0500, SuperVHS <[email protected]>
>If things go well and I like what I'm doing, then I'll get a table saw.
>Make sure I like it, but I do like making things so I don't think
>that'll be an issue.
>Btw, what blade, or type of blade, do you recommend?
Combination type, carbide tipped saw blade for a table saw and a good
table saw fence when you can afford it.
I started off with a contractor's table saw in the beginning. Used it
as is for about five years. The two biggest noticeable upgrades after
that was adding a carbide tipped saw blade and a decent aftermarket
fence to it.
Can't advise you on good circular saw blade. I gave away mine a number
of years ago.
[email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 13 May 2014 04:44:29 -0500, SuperVHS <[email protected]>
>> To follow up: I found a video on youtube where a guy builds a basic
>> bookshelf, just a big box really, with pocket hole joints and he just
>> screws the back on.
>> It looks relatively easy, but of course he had the whole workshop,
>> and he had a table saw to cut the big pieces.
>> I think this might be my place to start, just cutting the hand holes
>> and the big sides.
>
> Really? This has to be a troll. Ok, I'll bite. You need to buy some
> basic power tools starting with a table saw. And, then you need to use
> it practice wise. Make a few boxes, small boxes, say big enough to
> hold a bowling ball. If you're satisfied with their construction, then
> come back here in a few months.
Well, not so much Dave. He could get by with a circular saw and a homemade
guide, and a good blade. Sort of a poor man's version of a track saw.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
> On Tue, 13 May 2014 06:29:26 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
>> Well, not so much Dave. He could get by with a circular saw and a
>> homemade guide, and a good blade. Sort of a poor man's version of a
>> track saw.
>
> Sure he could. But, with the aspirations he has, the tablesaw is his
> shortest route to what he wants to build on a decent level. Of course,
> that's just my opinion.
>
> All I can go on is my own experience. I had a circular saw and various
> other tools when I started woodworking on a regular basis. But, it
> wasn't until I bought a table saw that I *really* got into cabinet
> making.
Hands down agreed - but I read it differently. Without going back to the
original post, I read it as he was looking to build these stack things sorta
on the cheap - without having to invest in stationary tools.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
"SuperVHS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]
> I see the basic questions are:
> 1-how to make a good, strong, easy corner joint, and
One of the best ways IMO is with glue blocks. Strips of 3/4x3/4 wood - or
even 1x2 - cut to length and glued and/or screwed to adjacent sides. Of
course, they show when looking into he box but one can put a decorative edge
on them or hide tham with a face frame glued to the front of the box and
overlapping the glue blocks.
__________________
> 2-how to easily cut the panels.
See below
_____________________
> Oh, and how to cut out the hand holds, but I think I can
> do that with a jigsaw, right?
Yes you can but a better way is to make one in a piece of scrap and use that
as a router template; that way all the hand holes will be the same, not to
mention smoother.
_____________________
> But to round the edges, I'll need a router I think.
> Simply sanding will not get the edges round enuf.
> Is there a way to get 3/4" plywood round without a
> router? (not simply not-sharp, but round-round.)
You need a router.
_____________________
> How strong is a 90-degree butt joint, glued, with screws?
> Is that pretty permanent?
Probably strong enough for your purpose.
______________________
> I wouldn't think it would look
> all that nice with screws tho.
Recess the screw heads slightly, fill, prime and paint (the whole thing)
______________________
> How do I cut a 4'x8' piece of plywood into a bunch of
> squares? A handsaw is out (how tedious would that be?)
> I've used a circular saw way-back-when in projects with
> my dad. Nothing recent tho, and I doubt my ability to
> make long straight cuts with one. Norm Abram on New
> Yankee Workshop*** uses his table saw all the time on
> practically every project. Is a table saw one of the most
> basic tools to have?
Yes it is but you don't necessarily have to have it. If you will have
considerable future use for it, consider buying one; expect to pay $500+ -
$1500 for a new one.
There are other ways to cut panels...
1. Lay across saw horses and use a circular saw with a straight edge (a
6-12" wide strip of plywood makes a decent straight edge). Even though I
have table saw, I generally cut panels like this initially, then fine tune
them on the table saw.]...it is not easy to handle a 4x8 sheet on a table
saw.
2. Have them cut where you buy them. Lowes/Home Depot give you one free cut,
you can often get two. Additional cuts are cheap. The roughness on the cut
edges can be dressed up with a router and straight edge guide or a hand
plane. You would need to plan your sizes in advance.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
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On 5/13/2014 8:43 AM, dadiOH wrote:
> "SuperVHS" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]
>
>> I see the basic questions are:
>> 1-how to make a good, strong, easy corner joint, and
>
> One of the best ways IMO is with glue blocks. Strips of 3/4x3/4 wood - or
> even 1x2 - cut to length and glued and/or screwed to adjacent sides. Of
> course, they show when looking into he box but one can put a decorative edge
> on them or hide tham with a face frame glued to the front of the box and
> overlapping the glue blocks.
> __________________
>
>> 2-how to easily cut the panels.
>
> See below
> _____________________
>
>> Oh, and how to cut out the hand holds, but I think I can
>> do that with a jigsaw, right?
>
> Yes you can but a better way is to make one in a piece of scrap and use that
> as a router template; that way all the hand holes will be the same, not to
> mention smoother.
> _____________________
>
>> But to round the edges, I'll need a router I think.
>> Simply sanding will not get the edges round enuf.
>> Is there a way to get 3/4" plywood round without a
>> router? (not simply not-sharp, but round-round.)
>
> You need a router.
> _____________________
>
>> How strong is a 90-degree butt joint, glued, with screws?
>> Is that pretty permanent?
>
> Probably strong enough for your purpose.
> ______________________
>
>> I wouldn't think it would look
>> all that nice with screws tho.
>
> Recess the screw heads slightly, fill, prime and paint (the whole thing)
> ______________________
>
>> How do I cut a 4'x8' piece of plywood into a bunch of
>> squares? A handsaw is out (how tedious would that be?)
>> I've used a circular saw way-back-when in projects with
>> my dad. Nothing recent tho, and I doubt my ability to
>> make long straight cuts with one. Norm Abram on New
>> Yankee Workshop*** uses his table saw all the time on
>> practically every project. Is a table saw one of the most
>> basic tools to have?
>
> Yes it is but you don't necessarily have to have it. If you will have
> considerable future use for it, consider buying one; expect to pay $500+ -
> $1500 for a new one.
>
> There are other ways to cut panels...
>
> 1. Lay across saw horses and use a circular saw with a straight edge (a
> 6-12" wide strip of plywood makes a decent straight edge). Even though I
> have table saw, I generally cut panels like this initially, then fine tune
> them on the table saw.]...it is not easy to handle a 4x8 sheet on a table
> saw.
>
> 2. Have them cut where you buy them. Lowes/Home Depot give you one free cut,
> you can often get two. Additional cuts are cheap. The roughness on the cut
> edges can be dressed up with a router and straight edge guide or a hand
> plane. You would need to plan your sizes in advance.
>
>
You do not say how big the boxes are to be nor do you say how thick the
plywood is. If the boxes are 2'X 2' and you are planning on using
quarter inch plywood. I would either increase the size of the plywood
or add a backing post to each corner of the box. These could be of any
convenient desigh.
I would also consider the corner post it the box is going to see rough
use or filled with a lot of weight.
Otherwise what was said above.
SuperVHS <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
> <sorry it's so long, but I need to explain myself. if you're a
> TLDR-type, it'd be a good idea to move on. thanks for stopping.)
>
> I have decided I'm going to 'modularize' my place some, for lack of a
> better word.
> I want to make some boxes that I can stack that will act like
> bookshelves, or dressers, or pretty much anything that stores things
but
> lets me still have handy access to the stuff inside. (not unlike a
> college student uses milk crates, but nicer. sturdier. looks good in
> different configurations. and strong enuf to stand on. not that I will,
> but stacked four or five tall full of books will weigh at least what I
> do. and that's saying something.)
IOW, about 2 ft square. For books, you'll want 3/4 plywood
>
> Could you point me to some websites and videos that will answer some
> questions and show me how to do some stuff?
>
> I see the basic questions are:
> 1-how to make a good, strong, easy corner joint, and
> 2-how to easily cut the panels.
> Oh, and how to cut out the hand holds, but I think I can do that with a
> jigsaw, right?
> But to round the edges, I'll need a router I think. Simply sanding will
> not get the edges round enuf.
> Is there a way to get 3/4" plywood round without a router? (not simply
> not-sharp, but round-round.)
For your hand-hold, router would be indicated
>
> What kind of corner would be strong and easy, and how to make it? Do I
> have to make a dove tail to be strongest? or maybe pocket screws are
> good enuf? 45 degree butt joint? bisquits? ahhhh!!!
> How strong is a 90-degree butt joint, glued, with screws? Is that
pretty
> permanent? I wouldn't think it would look all that nice with screws
tho.
> I wouldn't mind getting a jig for pocket screws. Are they fairly easy
to
> do on a 12" or 15"-wide panel? I've only seen them done on a 4" plank.
>
Strongest would be Box Joint. But you'd need a fixture and either Router
or Table Saw. You theoretically could do it by hand but that would be
time intensive.
Alternately Butt Joint with glue & screws (pay attention to orientation.)
I've used metal ells (on face) to add strength and decorative touch.
For books, you'll want at least 1/4" for back - 1/2 would be better.
Glue and screw
Screws - use flat-head, take care in spacing and setting them and make
them a decorative feature.
> How do I cut a 4'x8' piece of plywood into a bunch of squares? A
handsaw
> is out (how tedious would that be?) I've used a circular saw
> way-back-when in projects with my dad. Nothing recent tho, and I doubt
> my ability to make long straight cuts with one. Norm Abram on New
Yankee
> Workshop*** uses his table saw all the time on practically every
> project. Is a table saw one of the most basic tools to have?
You'll need a circular saw and either buy or make a guide. THEN use the
Table saw if you have one for the finish cuts.
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On Tue, 13 May 2014 06:29:26 -0400, "Mike Marlow"
>Well, not so much Dave. He could get by with a circular saw and a homemade
>guide, and a good blade. Sort of a poor man's version of a track saw.
Sure he could. But, with the aspirations he has, the tablesaw is his
shortest route to what he wants to build on a decent level. Of course,
that's just my opinion.
All I can go on is my own experience. I had a circular saw and various
other tools when I started woodworking on a regular basis. But, it
wasn't until I bought a table saw that I *really* got into cabinet
making.
On 5/13/2014 4:04 AM, SuperVHS wrote:
> <sorry it's so long, but I need to explain myself. if you're a
> TLDR-type, it'd be a good idea to move on. thanks for stopping.)
>
> I have decided I'm going to 'modularize' my place some, for lack of a
> better word.
> I want to make some boxes that I can stack that will act like
> bookshelves, or dressers, or pretty much anything that stores things but
> lets me still have handy access to the stuff inside. (not unlike a
> college student uses milk crates, but nicer. sturdier. looks good in
> different configurations. and strong enuf to stand on. not that I will,
> but stacked four or five tall full of books will weigh at least what I
> do. and that's saying something.)
Asian seagoing cultures have been good at effecting what you're
describing above. The Japanese have a modular type of furniture/casework
called "tansu", a system of boxes which are used convey and store their
personal effects on sea journeys, then, when back in port, brought back
to their homes and stacked as shelves and various other furniture:
http://krrb.com/posts/37737-beautiful-tansu-for-storage-with-style
Do your own googlefu on "tansu".
Interested in this concept from a magazine article I saw some 40 years
ago, I made my own "tansu" for my office about ten years ago:
http://e-woodshop.net/Projects8.htm
As you can see, this modular concept can be as simple, or as ornate, as
your desire.
> Could you point me to some websites and videos that will answer some
> questions and show me how to do some stuff?
http://www.shopwoodworking.com/casework-construction-case-joinery
Cost you a couple of bucks for the download, but at least it is
something that will start you off in the right direction.
Books have been written about all the questions you ask, so it is a
tough task to try to answer them all in one post.
The expertise to answer to all your questions is right here on the wRec,
but it might be better if you did a bit of reading first, then come back
with specific questions that weren't answered in your research.
As far as tools go, it really depends upon the room you have for a
proper shop, and your budget.
A table saw was considered mandatory for doing casework, but since
plunge "track/rail" saws came on the scene a few years back, you can
make do quite nicely with one of those if your budget and space is limited:
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/plunge-cut-rail-saws/
--
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Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Tue, 13 May 2014 04:44:29 -0500, SuperVHS <[email protected]>
>To follow up: I found a video on youtube where a guy builds a basic
>bookshelf, just a big box really, with pocket hole joints and he just
>screws the back on.
>It looks relatively easy, but of course he had the whole workshop, and
>he had a table saw to cut the big pieces.
>I think this might be my place to start, just cutting the hand holes and
>the big sides.
Really? This has to be a troll. Ok, I'll bite. You need to buy some
basic power tools starting with a table saw. And, then you need to use
it practice wise. Make a few boxes, small boxes, say big enough to
hold a bowling ball. If you're satisfied with their construction, then
come back here in a few months.