I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on
the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my
shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch
jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't
assemble any large cabinets down there.)
I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the
pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the
better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and
the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is
especially appealing.
Thanks for any advice.
I have the reverse problem. My shop is in a loft 15 steps above the
garage with a tight turn at the bottom. I purchased a Jet Supersaw.
As delivered the wings are not attached. We strapped the saw (table,
cabinet and motor) to an appliance handtruck and humped it up the
steps. It weighs about 230 lbs. Then just assembled the remainder of
the saw. With a good handtruck just take one step at a time. Of
course check the saw's width without wings against your stair width.
Only took my BIL and I to get it up one step at a time and both of us
are less than 5' 6".
On Nov 22, 6:31 pm, [email protected] (Doug Miller) wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
> >On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
> >wrote:
> >>I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
> >>a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs.
>
> >Most any contractor's saw (real CS, not just a "site" saw) should fit
> >quite easily with the legs, wings, and motor removed.
>
> >Depending on the turns, a 10" cabinet saw should also fit, if broken
> >down into body (with or without motor), wings, and top sub-assemblies.Careful with that -- I remember a post from a few years back in which someone
> described removing the top from (IIRC) a JET JTAS-10 to make it easier to get
> down the stairs -- and as soon as he did so, a handful of shims which had been
> installed at the factory came out.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
>
> It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
I recently bought the Rigid 3650, and have the same narrow stairs
problem. The thing is heavy - 300 pounds - but comes disassembled. The
heaviest piece was about 100 pounds. I had no problem getting the thing
into the basement by myself.
And, that tool is so accurate! Compared to my Crapsman radial arm saw
it's night and day. Get some accurate measuring tools to set the thing
up properly and you'll be able to get consistent cuts to a couple of a
thousanths of an inch.
- Jack
George Max wrote:
> I don't know why home builders don't consider their designs when it
> comes to getting things in and out. What do they think, furnaces and
> such last forever?
Because home builders are interested in selling houses, not living in
them. If home buyers were more discriminate, builders would stop the
nonsense.
Mike
George Max wrote:
> BTW, that subdivision my sister and her husband moved into looks like
> a scene from "The Stepford Wives." All look alike drab colors, cedar
> siding, ect. What's the matter with a litte variation - Colonials,
> Cape Cods, Tudors, ect.?
Beats me.
My wife and I life in the only house that isn't painted either
completely white or white with a touch of some trim color on our block.
The next block also has exactly one house that isn't predominantly white.
There seems to be a psychology at work here that I simply won't
subscribe to.
baa-baa
Bill
--
There is hopeful symbolism in the fact that flags do not wave in a vacuum.
Arthur C. Clarke
On Tue, 28 Nov 2006 01:46:45 GMT, George Max
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 02:00:52 -0600, Prometheus
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 20:08:05 -0500, Leuf <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be
>>>tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the
>>>joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs.
>>
>>That's the truth- I think I spent about 2 hours fiddling with bolts
>>and an hour running a 220 line before I even got to turn mine on.
>
>How'd you run the 220 over? Individual leads in conduit? Or
>something else?
Three wire 12ga. Romex. Tacked in place with plastic wire staples in
the rafters, and a plastic cover over the vertical drop to the
recepticle. My shop is in the basement, so garage or commerical
wiring requirements like conduit or MC wiring don't apply (at least,
as far as I know)
I removed the top from my Delta Unisaw and my brother and I took it down my
basement stairs. I then placed the main body in the mobile base, installed
the top and wings and with a dial indicator trued the top to the blade.
Installed the table board, legs, fence and was finished.
I also brought down those stairs a Delta 14" closed base band saw, 10"
radial arm saw, Jet closed base 6" jointer, a Ridgid full size drill press,
Ridgid 13" planer, Gizzly stationary belt sander with stand and a 1.5 hp
Delta dust collector.
No problem getting them down the stairs but if I ever sell my home and would
rather make a deal with the new owners to buy everything from me and start
over again. Too damn heavy to carry up the stairs.
It can be done, just depends on how bad you want it.
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 18:02:39 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I was most concerned about the weight, since that's what gave us the
>most trouble getting the jointer down there, and it probably weighs
>only 200 pounds, half of what these saws weigh.
>
>Since I've never assembled/disassembled a saw, I have no concept of
>what the main subassemblies are or how heavy each of them is. It would
>certainly be easiest if the largest piece was under 200 pounds.
>
>If you take the legs, wings and motor off a CS or one of the hybrids
>such as the Dewalt, is that about the max you can break it down? How
>heavy is the body after that?
We brought a Ridgid TS3650 down into the basement here. It comes
disassembled to the point you need it to be. By the time you get
everything that isn't the main part out of the box it really isn't
that bad. We took everything but that out and then used a hand truck,
but really at that point the two of us could have carried it.
Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be
tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the
joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs.
-Leuf
On 29 Nov 2006 06:37:46 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>George Max wrote:
>> I wonder why my sister "allowed" the builder of her home to put the
>> basement entry in a narrow hall in the center of the house. No way in
>> hell is anyone getting anything serious down there.
>
>Maybe "she" didn't "look" over the "plans"?
>
>Mike
I'm sure that's it. She and her husband were probably way too excited
at having a new home built that this fact was overlooked.
In my case, such a thing is the first thing I'm looking at.
It's about priorities, isn't it? How best to get the jointer, TS and
sheets of plywood down and up. And constructed projects out.
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
>a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs.
Most any contractor's saw (real CS, not just a "site" saw) should fit
quite easily with the legs, wings, and motor removed.
Depending on the turns, a 10" cabinet saw should also fit, if broken
down into body (with or without motor), wings, and top sub-assemblies.
The body section will be heavy, which is where the turns will come
into play as the carriers try to maintain a grip. Planking the stairs
an sliding it down, roped from the top of the stairs, may be an
option.
On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 15:00:41 GMT, "George" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"George Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
>> If I'm to ever complete a transaction with a builder, he/she is gonna
>> have to make lots of changes to suit the fact that among other things,
>> I think a basement is additional living space. And if not that,
>> certainly it's usable for more than video cartridge storage and a
>> place for the boogey man to live.
>>
>> Why is it that the people that don't want a basement simply build on a
>> slab (SE Wisconsin)?
>>
>
>Code is the main reason why some things are done. Living spaces have an
>entirely different set of requirements than temporary use spaces. Alternate
>egress being chief among them.
Absolutely. Good idea. I'll ask for two ways in and out.
Fortunately only 1 has to get the big stuff in and out.
>
>It's cheaper to build on a slab, of course, but the need for 4' deep
>footings in frost country makes it worthwhile to go the other four and have
>a basement, though hybrid designs with ground-level access/egress are fairly
>common to save money and still get the space.
>
>Don't use the basement for coal storage any more, of course. Our coal bin
>became dad's shop when we converted to gas.
That reminds me - I used to see that outline of a really large furnace
on my basement floor. Something that was there and gone before I ever
bought the place. I imagine it could have been a coal furnace since
my house was built in 1941. But then I wonder where they were leaving
the coal. There is no separate room in my basement, it's all one big
space.
BTW, the reason I no longer see that outline is 'cause I painted the
floor.
On 23 Nov 2006 04:01:49 -0800, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I recently bought the Rigid 3650, and have the same narrow stairs
>problem. The thing is heavy - 300 pounds - but comes disassembled. The
>heaviest piece was about 100 pounds. I had no problem getting the thing
>into the basement by myself.
These answers have been great--very helpful.
Does anyone have experience with the Dewalt DW746, as to how big its
subassemblies are as delivered?
(remove "x" from address for email)
I think you will be fine with about any saw in your price range. Your back
might complain but they should fit with some help. I own a Griz 1023s which
is rather heavy. But with wings and fence rails removed it is about 24"
square x about 3' tall. The 1023 should be representative of about any good
contractor or cabinet saw. Just buy one and assemble it downstairs.
BTW the 1023 is a very good value for the money. Even with shipping you
might get one at your upper $1,000 target.
RonB
"Chris Wolf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>
> I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can
> recommend
> a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
> hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so
> the
> pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
Forget the stairs. IIRC, a few years back it was on this newsgroup that
someone had a simple solution. They cut a hole in the floor and cut a
portion of one joist, lowered the tools down to the basement, then patched
the floor.
Thu, Nov 23, 2006, 4:59am (EST+5) [email protected] (Edwin=A0Pawlowski) doth
sayeth:
Forget the stairs. IIRC, a few years back it was on this newsgroup that
someone had a simple solution. They cut a hole in the floor and cut a
portion of one joist, lowered the tools down to the basement, then
patched the floor.
I was wondering if anyone was gonna come up with that. I think I'd
make a trapdoor, that'd make it handy to get big projects out.
JOAT
Democratic justice. One man, one rock.
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 20:08:05 -0500, Leuf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be
>tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the
>joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs.
That's the truth- I think I spent about 2 hours fiddling with bolts
and an hour running a 220 line before I even got to turn mine on.
Prometheus <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>My Delta contractor's saw (36-680) came in three seperate boxes- and I
>brought it home in the trunk of a car.
Thanks, that's the type of description I needed.
>While I do like the DeWalt
>for what it is- it may not fit your needs if you're looking for a
>"real" saw, and are only looking at it because it's easier to get into
>the house..
I'm not sure we're talking about the same Dewalt saw. I'm referring to the
$950 DW746X, which was an Editor's choice in American Woodworker over
competitors such as the $850 Delta 36-431 contractor's saw, and which got good
reviews from other magazines. The advantage it offers for my small shop is the
cabinet-saw-like design. Since the motor doesn't hang off the back, it doesn't
require as much floor space.
Is there anyone here who has this saw who can describe how it's packaged when
you buy it? Thanks.
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on
>the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my
>shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch
>jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't
>assemble any large cabinets down there.)
>
>I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
>a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
>hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the
>pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
>
>I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the
>better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and
>the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is
>especially appealing.
>
>Thanks for any advice.
First, for the best value on the dollar I would go to
....www.grizzly.com
This stuff comes fairly well broken down. The cast table will be the
most difficult but even that is not more than a two man job.
Good Luck,
J
In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] wrote:
>On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>>I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
>>a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs.
>
>Most any contractor's saw (real CS, not just a "site" saw) should fit
>quite easily with the legs, wings, and motor removed.
>
>Depending on the turns, a 10" cabinet saw should also fit, if broken
>down into body (with or without motor), wings, and top sub-assemblies.
Careful with that -- I remember a post from a few years back in which someone
described removing the top from (IIRC) a JET JTAS-10 to make it easier to get
down the stairs -- and as soon as he did so, a handful of shims which had been
installed at the factory came out.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on
>the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my
>shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch
>jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't
>assemble any large cabinets down there.)
>
>I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
>a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
>hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the
>pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
>
>I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the
>better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and
>the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is
>especially appealing.
>
>Thanks for any advice.
I went to the DeWalt site and took a look at the DW746X
It looks similar to the one I just bought, a General. I know,
different brand, but there's similarities. It's obvious that the
fence and left & right extension wings are separate. The black
plastic cover on the right side is no doubt a separate item, and the
switch is certainly loose too. So what you're dealing with is the
center yellow portion topped with the center cast iron piece. The
motor and trunnions are attached to the top and hanging right under
it. I'd guess the thing is about 175 lbs. Total weight is 254 lbs
according to DeWalts website.
My nephews moved my saw into my basement and wanted to carry the thing
themselves. I had to insist that they use the refridgerator dolly to
take it down. It was really easy that way.
But my point is that with a couple of strong young guys, a saw like
your DeWalt would be able to be manhandled into the basement.
A couple of guys once brought over a dryer that they carried on a
sling that was draped over each of their shoulders. Maybe something
like that could be done here if need be.
On Thu, 23 Nov 2006 01:26:52 -0600, [email protected] ()
wrote:
>In article <[email protected]>,
>Edwin Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>"Chris Wolf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>
>>> I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can
>>> recommend
>>> a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
>>> hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so
>>> the
>>> pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
>>
>>Forget the stairs. IIRC, a few years back it was on this newsgroup that
>>someone had a simple solution. They cut a hole in the floor and cut a
>>portion of one joist, lowered the tools down to the basement, then patched
>>the floor.
>>
>>
>
>I owned a small rowhouse once where a previous owner had actually done
>this to get a furnace into the basement.
I don't know why home builders don't consider their designs when it
comes to getting things in and out. What do they think, furnaces and
such last forever?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on
>the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my
>shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch
>jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't
>assemble any large cabinets down there.)
>
>I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
>a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
>hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the
>pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
>
>I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the
>better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and
>the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is
>especially appealing.
My Delta contractor's saw (36-680) came in three seperate boxes- and I
brought it home in the trunk of a car. It'd still be heavy to move
down stairs, but I suspect that the boxes would fit if you put them on
a two-wheel cart and move slowly. If needed, you could take the parts
out of the boxes and move each part seperately- the base cabinet is
one piece, the table is made from three pieces of cast iron (one
assembled to the base, and two that get bolted on during assembly),
the motor and plate it bolts to are loose, and the legs are pieces of
angle iron that you need to assemble. Fence and rails come in the
third box.
At a guess, the heaviest bit (the cabinet, trunnions, and middle
section of the top) was about 50-75 lbs, with volume somewhat similar
to an average benchtop saw.
IIRC, I paid something like $600 for it, and it's a heck of a nice
saw- I would imagine that most contractor-style saws in that range
come broken down in a similar fashion. If you're looking at something
like the Delta, I could measure so you can figure out whether or not
it'd fit down your stairs, if you like. While I do like the DeWalt
for what it is- it may not fit your needs if you're looking for a
"real" saw, and are only looking at it because it's easier to get into
the house..
On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 11:33:48 -0500, Bill in Detroit <[email protected]>
wrote:
>George Max wrote:
>
>> BTW, that subdivision my sister and her husband moved into looks like
>> a scene from "The Stepford Wives." All look alike drab colors, cedar
>> siding, ect. What's the matter with a litte variation - Colonials,
>> Cape Cods, Tudors, ect.?
>
>Beats me.
>
>My wife and I life in the only house that isn't painted either
>completely white or white with a touch of some trim color on our block.
>The next block also has exactly one house that isn't predominantly white.
>
>There seems to be a psychology at work here that I simply won't
>subscribe to.
>
>baa-baa
>
>Bill
I hear you. A little individuality is nice. We're not talking rusty
old cars in the backyard, just something for personality.
"George Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> I wonder why my sister "allowed" the builder of her home to put the
> basement entry in a narrow hall in the center of the house. No way in
> hell is anyone getting anything serious down there.
>
> The last time I toured a model home while considering having one
> constructed for wifey and I, I inquired about what I refer to as a
> "trap door." I know they're actually called something else, but when
> I was a boy, a lot of homes in the area I grew up in had a pair of
> exterior doors at an angle to the ground that provided access from
> outside directly to the basement. There was of course a door at the
> bottom of the steps in the actual basement wall (foundation).
Bulkhead doors. They have the Bilco brand of outside doors on them for
access.
>
> Narrow hallways, ill considered corridor placement and width, narrow
> entry doors, I just don't get why people accept this.
>
> Especially in light of super restrictive HOA rules that may not allow
> the use of a garage for anything but car parking and preclude
> construction of an out building.
>
> What's the world coming to?
We live in a bland society. Many people never go to the basement let alone
do any serious work down there. Years ago, the basement was a place to do
woodwork, make wine, do canning, repair appliances and of course, laundry.
Today, it is used to store old video game cartridges and soccer knee pads.
We accept Wonder bread so don't think buyers will have any more discriminate
taste in home design.
On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 03:04:48 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>"George Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> I wonder why my sister "allowed" the builder of her home to put the
>> basement entry in a narrow hall in the center of the house. No way in
>> hell is anyone getting anything serious down there.
>>
>> The last time I toured a model home while considering having one
>> constructed for wifey and I, I inquired about what I refer to as a
>> "trap door." I know they're actually called something else, but when
>> I was a boy, a lot of homes in the area I grew up in had a pair of
>> exterior doors at an angle to the ground that provided access from
>> outside directly to the basement. There was of course a door at the
>> bottom of the steps in the actual basement wall (foundation).
>
>Bulkhead doors. They have the Bilco brand of outside doors on them for
>access.
>
>
>
>>
>> Narrow hallways, ill considered corridor placement and width, narrow
>> entry doors, I just don't get why people accept this.
>>
>> Especially in light of super restrictive HOA rules that may not allow
>> the use of a garage for anything but car parking and preclude
>> construction of an out building.
>>
>> What's the world coming to?
>
>We live in a bland society. Many people never go to the basement let alone
>do any serious work down there. Years ago, the basement was a place to do
>woodwork, make wine, do canning, repair appliances and of course, laundry.
>Today, it is used to store old video game cartridges and soccer knee pads.
>We accept Wonder bread so don't think buyers will have any more discriminate
>taste in home design.
>
If I'm to ever complete a transaction with a builder, he/she is gonna
have to make lots of changes to suit the fact that among other things,
I think a basement is additional living space. And if not that,
certainly it's usable for more than video cartridge storage and a
place for the boogey man to live.
Why is it that the people that don't want a basement simply build on a
slab (SE Wisconsin)?
BTW, that subdivision my sister and her husband moved into looks like
a scene from "The Stepford Wives." All look alike drab colors, cedar
siding, ect. What's the matter with a litte variation - Colonials,
Cape Cods, Tudors, ect.?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 22:05:50 GMT, B A R R Y <[email protected]>
wrote:
>Most any contractor's saw (real CS, not just a "site" saw) should fit
>quite easily with the legs, wings, and motor removed.
>
>Depending on the turns, a 10" cabinet saw should also fit, if broken
>down into body (with or without motor), wings, and top sub-assemblies.
>The body section will be heavy, which is where the turns will come
>into play as the carriers try to maintain a grip. Planking the stairs
>an sliding it down, roped from the top of the stairs, may be an
>option.
I was most concerned about the weight, since that's what gave us the
most trouble getting the jointer down there, and it probably weighs
only 200 pounds, half of what these saws weigh.
Since I've never assembled/disassembled a saw, I have no concept of
what the main subassemblies are or how heavy each of them is. It would
certainly be easiest if the largest piece was under 200 pounds.
If you take the legs, wings and motor off a CS or one of the hybrids
such as the Dewalt, is that about the max you can break it down? How
heavy is the body after that?
(remove "x" from address for email)
In article <[email protected]>,
Chris Wolf <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on
>the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my
>shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch
>jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't
>assemble any large cabinets down there.)
>
>I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
>a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
>hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the
>pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
>
>I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the
>better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and
>the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is
>especially appealing.
>
>Thanks for any advice.
A conventional contractors saw is probably the easiest to dissasembe &
reassemble. Take off the motor, unbolt from stand. I had to partially
disassemble mine to get it in the basement and I was able to stop at
this point. My saw has steel extension tables & rails for 25" rip
capacity so I was able to leave them attached. If it has cast iron
table extensions, you'll probably want to remove them and the fence
rails before taking it down the stairs, even if it will fit, because
of weight & susceptability to damage.
down the stairs
--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - [email protected]
In article <[email protected]>,
Edwin Pawlowski <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>"Chris Wolf" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>
>> I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can
>> recommend
>> a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
>> hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so
>> the
>> pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
>
>Forget the stairs. IIRC, a few years back it was on this newsgroup that
>someone had a simple solution. They cut a hole in the floor and cut a
>portion of one joist, lowered the tools down to the basement, then patched
>the floor.
>
>
I owned a small rowhouse once where a previous owner had actually done
this to get a furnace into the basement.
--
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - [email protected]
Chris Wolf wrote:
> I have a small basement shop with steep, narrow stairs that take two bends on
> the way down. Because of the difficulty of getting things down the stairs, my
> shop is equipped with benchtop tools. The only exception is a Delta 6" inch
> jointer that we were able to take down in pieces. (Needless to say, I don't
> assemble any large cabinets down there.)
>
> I would like to get a real table saw, so I'm wondering if anyone can recommend
> a good model that would be easier than most to get down stairs. What I'm
> hoping in particular is that certain models come partially unassembled, so the
> pieces would be manageable enough even though the whole saw wouldn't be.
>
> I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the
> better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and
> the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is
> especially appealing.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
4 bolts hold the top on my Grizz 1023 .. .. remove them and the base
will fit in any stairwell I've ever seen .. .. if weight is an issue,
remove the motor before trying to get it down the stairs.
On 27 Nov 2006 18:07:17 -0800, [email protected] wrote:
>George Max wrote:
>> I don't know why home builders don't consider their designs when it
>> comes to getting things in and out. What do they think, furnaces and
>> such last forever?
>
>Because home builders are interested in selling houses, not living in
>them. If home buyers were more discriminate, builders would stop the
>nonsense.
>
>Mike
I wonder why my sister "allowed" the builder of her home to put the
basement entry in a narrow hall in the center of the house. No way in
hell is anyone getting anything serious down there.
The last time I toured a model home while considering having one
constructed for wifey and I, I inquired about what I refer to as a
"trap door." I know they're actually called something else, but when
I was a boy, a lot of homes in the area I grew up in had a pair of
exterior doors at an angle to the ground that provided access from
outside directly to the basement. There was of course a door at the
bottom of the steps in the actual basement wall (foundation).
The salesman looked at me as if I was crazy. Why would anyone want
such a thing?
One of my closest friends had a house built for his family 2 years
ago. It's a really nice house, except it too has basement entry in
the center of the house and the stairs get about 1/2 way down then
meet a foundation wall and turn to the left to reach the floor. How
is one to bring much of anything in that way?
Narrow hallways, ill considered corridor placement and width, narrow
entry doors, I just don't get why people accept this.
Especially in light of super restrictive HOA rules that may not allow
the use of a garage for anything but car parking and preclude
construction of an out building.
What's the world coming to?
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 18:02:39 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
>If you take the legs, wings and motor off a CS or one of the hybrids
>such as the Dewalt, is that about the max you can break it down? How
>heavy is the body after that?
Not very.
The main weight of a contractor saw is in the motor, top, and wings.
There's some weight in the body from the trunnion, but it's really not
that bad.
On Sun, 26 Nov 2006 02:00:52 -0600, Prometheus
<[email protected]> wrote:
>On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 20:08:05 -0500, Leuf <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>
>>Keep in mind the stand comes in about a billion pieces and you'll be
>>tightening bolts on your knees for so long you'll be longing for the
>>joyful time you were carrying the saw down the stairs.
>
>That's the truth- I think I spent about 2 hours fiddling with bolts
>and an hour running a 220 line before I even got to turn mine on.
How'd you run the 220 over? Individual leads in conduit? Or
something else?
I dealt with this a couple of years ago. Got a Unisaw down my basement
steps. We removed the cast-iron top. It comes right off with 4 large
bolts, one in each corner. This not only gets rid of a lot of weight, but
also gives you a few inches more clearance, and makes it less top-heavy.
Also took off the height and tilt adjustment knobs (for more clearance).
With the top off, me and a buddy got it down the stairs on a hand truck.
Putting it back together required re-aligning the top with the blade, but
that wasn't that hard.
"George Max" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> If I'm to ever complete a transaction with a builder, he/she is gonna
> have to make lots of changes to suit the fact that among other things,
> I think a basement is additional living space. And if not that,
> certainly it's usable for more than video cartridge storage and a
> place for the boogey man to live.
>
> Why is it that the people that don't want a basement simply build on a
> slab (SE Wisconsin)?
>
Code is the main reason why some things are done. Living spaces have an
entirely different set of requirements than temporary use spaces. Alternate
egress being chief among them.
It's cheaper to build on a slab, of course, but the need for 4' deep
footings in frost country makes it worthwhile to go the other four and have
a basement, though hybrid designs with ground-level access/egress are fairly
common to save money and still get the space.
Don't use the basement for coal storage any more, of course. Our coal bin
became dad's shop when we converted to gas.
On Wed, 22 Nov 2006 16:53:23 -0500, Chris Wolf <[email protected]>
wrote:
>I'm interested in something in the $500-$1,000 range, where some of the
>better-reviewed saws seem to be the Ridgid 3650, the new Craftsman models, and
>the Dewalt. Since my shop is small, the compact size of the Dewalt is
>especially appealing.
The Ridgid comes in lots and lots of pieces, I don't think you'd have
any problem carrying it downstairs (there are a couple really heavy
pieces, you'd better have help). When I helped a friend put his
together, it went together easily and works wonderfully. Haven't
tried putting together any other contractor's saws though but I would
assume they're similar.
IMHO I would worry less about weight right now, and go for the best machine
I could afford. Then round up friends, relatives and a case of beer and lug
the boxes down the steps.
Drink the beer after the saw is downstairs!
Seriously, the 1023s I mentioned in my previous post weighs in around 360
pounds. However the heaviest single piece is the body, including the main
table casting, which I would guess is in the 200-220 range. The cast iron
wings, the fence, fence rails, etc are all rather heavy but manageable. The
cast iron top and motor could be removed; but, if you had a moving dolly and
a couple of buddies you should be able to get it downstairs without total
disassembly.
Regarding assembly. It took 2-3 hours to put mine together. Another 2-3
hours to tweak adjustments (some of that was playing).
Do Not comprimise the quality of the machine by selecting one that weighs
less. It might not be sturdy either.
Ron