I plan to use Water base analine dye on Maple. Sand to 180 grit or
scrape then wet,dry,sand to 220 grit or scrape. My question is do I
want to use wood conditioner before applying dye. With oil stains I
found a more even color using conditioner. A sample doesnt always tell
the anwswer.On top I plan to brush Rockhard Varnish which I have also
never used and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
Thanks in advance
Henry said:
I plan to use Water base analine dye on Maple. Sand to 180 grit or
scrape then wet,dry,sand to 220 grit or scrape. My question is do I
want to use wood conditioner before applying dye. With oil stains I
found a more even color using conditioner. A sample doesnt always tell
the anwswer.On top I plan to brush Rockhard Varnish which I have also
never used and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
Thanks in advance
Ray replied:
The WB stain works great on maple. You have the right idea of wetting
then resanding.
You might also want to consider Boiled Linseed Oil after the stain. I
tried this and the results are simply amazing. I applied the BLO with
220 wet-dry sandpaper. You have top put on a liberal amount of the BLO
and use a light touch because the stain does not penetrate very deep.
Wipe it off across the grain and let dry for several days. I ended up
doing two coats of BLO before the varnish. Even the plain maple I got
from the Borg looked great after doing this. Now if I could get the
varnish applied without any drips...
I had to resand it all because I tried applying the varnish in a dimly
lit basement over the winter and ended up with runs. Any tips on
applying varnish? I tried a cotton rag and a foam brush and didn't
like either. Should I thin out the varnish before applying?
>
> I had to resand it all because I tried applying the varnish in a dimly
> lit basement over the winter and ended up with runs. Any tips on
> applying varnish? I tried a cotton rag and a foam brush and didn't
> like either. Should I thin out the varnish before applying?
Tip 1: You need to see what you are doing. so buy some lights. Two tube
shoplights are pretty cheap. Also, get one of those portable halogen
worklights they can be repositioned to highlight the area you are
finishing.
Tip 2: If by varnish you mean poly, I always make a mixture of 1:1:1 of
poly/BLO/MS, then wipe it on. The finish builds slowly however. You may
need 5-6 coats. Don't glob it on, just wipe on a thin coat. I apply it
with a paper towel (Ragz) folder up into a pad about 2"x3". Be patient.
If I do a door for example, I also prop it up in the vertical position
when it dries so it collects less dust. Sand between coats with 600 W/D
using MS as a lubricant. Maybe use 1000 grit for the final 1-2 coats.
>Tip 2: If by varnish you mean poly, I always make a mixture of 1:1:1 of poly/BLO/MS, then wipe it on.
No, I mean varnish. I read about this technique and it said to put
varnish over the BLO after it dries. The varnish enhances the grain
variations. I guess this works because it is not as 'clear' as poly.
Anyway, the varnish goes on 'sticky' and dries very fast so it is hard
to get a smooth finish. I wouldn't mind doing several coats, maybe I
should mix some mineral spirits in with the varnish?
Hi Henry,
WB dyes get into the wood fibers, therefore you do not want to use a
conditioner / blocker first. Spraying and not wiping is a great way to
apply them on blotchy woods. Although I have brushed dark ones on with
good effect. Oil stains tend to have the pigments which rest on/near the
top and a conditioner evens out the small amount of adsorption that
occurs. JG
henry wrote:
> I plan to use Water base analine dye on Maple. Sand to 180 grit or
> scrape then wet,dry,sand to 220 grit or scrape. My question is do I
> want to use wood conditioner before applying dye. With oil stains I
> found a more even color using conditioner. A sample doesnt always tell
> the anwswer.On top I plan to brush Rockhard Varnish which I have also
> never used and would appreciate any words of wisdom.
> Thanks in advance
Jeff Jewitt had an article in Fine Woodworking 5-6 years ago about
Sherwin Williams Fast Dry Oil Varnish and how to apply three coats a
day. Slick application and it works. Suggested varnish/naptha in 1:1
ratio and folded Viva paper towel as they're smooth. He commented his
students really liked it and so do I.
On 1 May 2006 07:08:59 -0700, "RayV" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>Tip 2: If by varnish you mean poly, I always make a mixture of 1:1:1 of poly/BLO/MS, then wipe it on.
>
>No, I mean varnish. I read about this technique and it said to put
>varnish over the BLO after it dries. The varnish enhances the grain
>variations. I guess this works because it is not as 'clear' as poly.
>
>Anyway, the varnish goes on 'sticky' and dries very fast so it is hard
>to get a smooth finish. I wouldn't mind doing several coats, maybe I
>should mix some mineral spirits in with the varnish?