David Bridgeman wrote:
> David Bridgeman wrote:
> > I just posted a bunch of pics on abpw of a window unit I build for my
> > daughter's room. See Subject: "How to fix a window leak"
>
> I am playing with posting the pics on my comcast account website:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~debridgeman/jebthumb.html
Looks great David, and thanks for the step by step pics. I'd looked for
the pics on abpw but never saw them. How did you paint the cabinets,
and is there anything you'd do differently if you had to do it again?
David Bridgeman wrote:
> I just posted a bunch of pics on abpw of a window unit I build for my
> daughter's room. See Subject: "How to fix a window leak"
I am playing with posting the pics on my comcast account website:
http://home.comcast.net/~debridgeman/jebthumb.html
Original abpw post:
When we first moved in this house, 20 years ago, the windows were
horrible. Due to tight funds we replaced the existing windows with
inexpensive vinyl units. About a year ago we noticed dampness down the
wall below the window. After some inspection, we realized that the
miter corner of the window frame had come unglued and water was leaking
into the wall.
So we ripped all the sheet rock out and replace sagging insulation as
needed. After the drywall was done, we replaced the window with a 6
wide Andersen slider unit (the rough opening is 3 high and 6 wide). A
very nice unit.
Then I began building the cabinets for the wall unit/window seat.
Knowing that all would be ultimately painted, I used borg birch ply and
poplar. There are to base cabinets one about 42 wide and one 36 wide.
Then, I build the upper shelf cabinets (no bottom, but one fixed shelf
at about 14 above the base). I wanted strong and sturdy support for
the window seat, so I used doubled up 3/4 ply for each of the four
supports across the 6 seat. I planned to put 3 drawers in the window
seat on full extension slides. I used ½ birch ply to make the drawers
approximately 20 square using a drawer lock bit, glue and brads. The
drawers were shellacked on all sides in and out. I dadoed ¼ ply into
the bottom of each seat support to form a bottom of the drawer opening
and provide support. I also nailed and glued a piece of ¾ ply across
the back. I built the face frame with pocket holes an inch and a half
higher that the supports to cover 2 pieces of ¾ ply for the seat itself.
All the units were installed. Beaded plywood was used as the seat back.
Window trim molding was installed.
I wanted to put lights in the top. So I framed out the top and put
three small recessed into a piece of plywood for the top. To frame in
the lights I attached a wide poplar board between the upper units with a
half of an ellipse cut out (thanks to SonomaProducts for ideas).
Finally, I installed a piece of small crown molding across the top of
all the units.
The wife took over and painted all the cabinets. In the meantime, I
tried my hand at raised panel doors out of solid poplar using a set I
bought some time ago from Jesada. All went well and the doors turned
out great. I wanted a low profile for the doors and drawer fronts so I
inset the doors 3/8ths of and inch. For the drawer fronts I used part
of the raised panel set to cut a small ogee in each drawer front. The
sweet painter again stepped in and painted the doors and drawer fronts.
All were hung/attached. Finally, the multi-talented painter stepped
in and made the cushion for the window seat out of 5 foam covered with
batting and final fabric. Curtain hardware and matching curtains were hung.
Window doesnt leak.