The bed I am building will have some exposed end grain - by design. The wood
is quarter sawn Douglas Fir.
I started staining parts of it today - pieces with end grain that will
*not* be exposed (e.g. the side rails) - so I could see how the stain
looked. I used a liberal amount of Minwax Pre-Stain on all surfaces but
the end grain still came out much darker than the face/side grain. Too
dark. I lost all of the quarter sawn end grain pattern that I want to see.
Some sites I looked at said that end grain could be sealed with pre-stain
or shellac, implying that one was as good as the other. Is that true or
would shellac seal the end grain better?
I did find that if I used very little stain on the rag I could achieve
a lighter color, but I think it would be difficult to get an exact match
on all sections of exposed end grain. I don't expect to get an exact match
of end grain to side grain, but I don't want the vast difference I am seeing
even after using the pre-stain.
Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
just the end grain would be tough.
Thanks once again for your expertise.
On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:00:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > The bed I am building will have some exposed end grain - by design. The wood
> > is quarter sawn Douglas Fir.
> >
> > I started staining parts of it today - pieces with end grain that will
> > *not* be exposed (e.g. the side rails) - so I could see how the stain
> > looked. I used a liberal amount of Minwax Pre-Stain on all surfaces but
> > the end grain still came out much darker than the face/side grain. Too
> > dark. I lost all of the quarter sawn end grain pattern that I want to see.
> >
> > Some sites I looked at said that end grain could be sealed with pre-stain
> > or shellac, implying that one was as good as the other. Is that true or
> > would shellac seal the end grain better?
> >
> > I did find that if I used very little stain on the rag I could achieve
> > a lighter color, but I think it would be difficult to get an exact match
> > on all sections of exposed end grain. I don't expect to get an exact match
> > of end grain to side grain, but I don't want the vast difference I am seeing
> > even after using the pre-stain.
> >
> > Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
> >
> > I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> > 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
> > I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
> > to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> > difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
> > just the end grain would be tough.
> >
> > Thanks once again for your expertise.
> >
> End grain is porous and will soak in much more stain than the edge or
> face. You have pretty much stated the steps to prevent over absorption
> so there is not much more to say in that respect.
>
> Most anything will seal the grain, just use something that will not add
> a darker shade. Use what you have on hand. Surely you have a few
> scraps to test on.
So, to answer my main question: Shellac would be no better than the
Minwax pre-stain? (I have pre-stain and can surely pick up a small
can of shellac to test, but I figured I'd ask first.)
On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 1:32:39 PM UTC-4, dadiOH wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
> >> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >> > Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even
> >> > better?
> >> >
> >> > I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper
> >> > (like
> >> > 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain.
> >> > Unfortunately
> >> > I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly
> >> > adjacent
> >> > to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> >> > difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable,
> >> > burnishing
> >> > just the end grain would be tough.
> >> >
> >> > Thanks once again for your expertise.
> >>
> >> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
> >> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
> >>
> >
> > Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
> > it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
> >
> > The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
> > very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
> > footboard uprights are also end grain.
> >
> > This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
> >
> > I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
> >
> > So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
> > of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
>
> Or/and, dilute the stain
Yes, that is something I considered. Thanks.
On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:12:37 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/1/2016 2:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
>
> > 2. Shellac sealer (Zinsser Bull Eye, right out of the can strength)
> > works nicely for mitigating the darkness, applied before, and after
> > sanding.
>
> Forgot to add, a glue base sizing also works. Just mix regular wood glue
> with some H2O, about half n' half. Let it soak in and dry. Test on scrap
> first.
>
I've got some glue sizing drying now. Thanks
> eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
> Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
> https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
> https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
> http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
> https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
> KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 1:26:54 PM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/2/16 12:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 11:52:50 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> >> On 10/2/16 8:53 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
> >>>> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>>>> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
> >>>>>
> >>>>> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> >>>>> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
> >>>>> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
> >>>>> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> >>>>> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
> >>>>> just the end grain would be tough.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Thanks once again for your expertise.
> >>>>
> >>>> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
> >>>> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
> >>> it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
> >>>
> >>> The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
> >>> very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
> >>> footboard uprights are also end grain.
> >>>
> >>> This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
> >>>
> >>> http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
> >>>
> >>> I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
> >>>
> >>> So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
> >>> of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks.
> >>>
> >>
> >> Just FYI...
> >> That wood is going to be very splotchy anyway, so you might want to use
> >> a conditioner on all of it as a first step.
> >>
> >>
> >
> > Perhaps you missed this statement in my OP:
> >
> > "I used a liberal amount of Minwax Pre-Stain on all surfaces but
> > the end grain still came out much darker than the face/side grain."
> >
>
> Either missed it or forgot about it. ADD :-)
>
>
> > This is a rustic style bed, so perfect color matching throughout is
> > not required or even desired. Obviously "splotchy" isn't the goal. ;-)
> >
> > IMO, the rails came out pretty nice, but you can see how the end grain
> > is much darker. Granted, the rails aren't quater-sawn, but the stain
> > came out the same as on the quarter-swan samples I tried.
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/oDFjTGz.jpg
> >
>
> That is very smooth and even stain application.
> That is what that conditioner does for you. Looks great.
>
>
Thanks. The color looks even better in real life. I settled on Zar
wiping stain in Cherry. I don't see much Cherry in it and that's OK.
On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
> >
> > I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> > 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
> > I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
> > to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> > difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
> > just the end grain would be tough.
> >
> > Thanks once again for your expertise.
>
> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
>
Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
footboard uprights are also end grain.
This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
Thanks.
On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:22:09 PM UTC-4, Larry Kraus wrote:
> On 10/1/2016 2:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > The bed I am building will have some exposed end grain - by design. The wood
> > is quarter sawn Douglas Fir.
> >
> > I started staining parts of it today - pieces with end grain that will
> > *not* be exposed (e.g. the side rails) - so I could see how the stain
> > looked.
>
> Don't use your final parts to experiment with finishes. Use scraps
> prepped to the same level. Sooner or later, you will ruin your material
> and waste hours or days of work, or spend extra hours "fixing" a finish
> that is not right.
You may have missed my (subtle) point. I don't mind if the end grain on
parts that won't be exposed is a little darker. It was chance to finish
some of the larger pieces without really endangering anything. I knew going
in that the end grain might be an issue, but for those pieces the end grain
will not be seen. Plus I've actually *started* finishing - no more excuses
or delay tactics. ;-)
Now that I know that the pre-stain doesn't really do what I want it to,
I'm stopping (and testing) other methods for sealing the end grain. In
meantime, the 2 side rails and a "hidden" part of the headboard are stained
and drying.
Progress!
On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> The bed I am building will have some exposed end grain - by design. The wood
> is quarter sawn Douglas Fir.
>
> I started staining parts of it today - pieces with end grain that will
> *not* be exposed (e.g. the side rails) - so I could see how the stain
> looked. I used a liberal amount of Minwax Pre-Stain on all surfaces but
> the end grain still came out much darker than the face/side grain. Too
> dark. I lost all of the quarter sawn end grain pattern that I want to see.
>
> Some sites I looked at said that end grain could be sealed with pre-stain
> or shellac, implying that one was as good as the other. Is that true or
> would shellac seal the end grain better?
>
> I did find that if I used very little stain on the rag I could achieve
> a lighter color, but I think it would be difficult to get an exact match
> on all sections of exposed end grain. I don't expect to get an exact match
> of end grain to side grain, but I don't want the vast difference I am seeing
> even after using the pre-stain.
>
> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
>
> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
> just the end grain would be tough.
>
> Thanks once again for your expertise.
>
End grain is porous and will soak in much more stain than the edge or
face. You have pretty much stated the steps to prevent over absorption
so there is not much more to say in that respect.
Most anything will seal the grain, just use something that will not add
a darker shade. Use what you have on hand. Surely you have a few
scraps to test on.
On 10/7/2016 3:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> Update:
>
> After lot's of T&E on scraps, the following technique allowed me match
> the end grain to the quarter sawn face grain:
>
> Burnishing with 220 grit in a palm sander and then 3 coats of MinWax
> pre-Stain. The face grain was sanded with 150 grit and then 1 coat of
> pre-stain.
>
> I've got some more end-grain to do this weekend...hopefully the process
> is repeatable.
>
I think I would blow off staining the end drain and cover it up. ;~)
On 10/1/2016 2:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
I'd go with shellac, but a heavy dose of pre-stain may do it.
>
> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain.
I burnish with the shank of a #1 Phillips screw driver.
On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 11:52:50 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
> On 10/2/16 8:53 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
> >> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> >>> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
> >>>
> >>> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> >>> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
> >>> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
> >>> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> >>> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
> >>> just the end grain would be tough.
> >>>
> >>> Thanks once again for your expertise.
> >>
> >> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
> >> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
> >>
> >
> > Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
> > it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
> >
> > The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
> > very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
> > footboard uprights are also end grain.
> >
> > This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
> >
> > http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
> >
> > I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
> >
> > So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
> > of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
>
> Just FYI...
> That wood is going to be very splotchy anyway, so you might want to use
> a conditioner on all of it as a first step.
>
>
Perhaps you missed this statement in my OP:
"I used a liberal amount of Minwax Pre-Stain on all surfaces but
the end grain still came out much darker than the face/side grain."
This is a rustic style bed, so perfect color matching throughout is
not required or even desired. Obviously "splotchy" isn't the goal. ;-)
IMO, the rails came out pretty nice, but you can see how the end grain
is much darker. Granted, the rails aren't quater-sawn, but the stain
came out the same as on the quarter-swan samples I tried.
http://i.imgur.com/oDFjTGz.jpg
I applied the first coat of wipe-on poly on this morning and the end grain
darkened even more. It's obviously needs to be sealed more aggressively. I
have some more testing to do before I stain any end-grain that will be
exposed. I'm confident I'll find a solution that works. The good thing
is that I have an almost infinite supply of end grain to test. ;-)
On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 2:52:31 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> The bed I am building will have some exposed end grain - by design. The wood
> is quarter sawn Douglas Fir.
>
> I started staining parts of it today - pieces with end grain that will
> *not* be exposed (e.g. the side rails) - so I could see how the stain
> looked. I used a liberal amount of Minwax Pre-Stain on all surfaces but
> the end grain still came out much darker than the face/side grain. Too
> dark. I lost all of the quarter sawn end grain pattern that I want to see.
>
> Some sites I looked at said that end grain could be sealed with pre-stain
> or shellac, implying that one was as good as the other. Is that true or
> would shellac seal the end grain better?
>
> I did find that if I used very little stain on the rag I could achieve
> a lighter color, but I think it would be difficult to get an exact match
> on all sections of exposed end grain. I don't expect to get an exact match
> of end grain to side grain, but I don't want the vast difference I am seeing
> even after using the pre-stain.
>
> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
>
> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
> just the end grain would be tough.
>
> Thanks once again for your expertise.
Update:
After lot's of T&E on scraps, the following technique allowed me match
the end grain to the quarter sawn face grain:
Burnishing with 220 grit in a palm sander and then 3 coats of MinWax
pre-Stain. The face grain was sanded with 150 grit and then 1 coat of
pre-stain.
I've got some more end-grain to do this weekend...hopefully the process
is repeatable.
On 10/1/16 7:57 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
> On 10/1/2016 2:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something
>> even better?
>
> I'd go with shellac, but a heavy dose of pre-stain may do it.
>
If you already have a good pre-stain conditioner it will do fine, you
just need to use a few coats. A clear shellac could do it with one
coat. Like everyone else said about 4 times, test on scraps.
>>
>> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit
>> sandpaper (like 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too
>> much stain.
>
> I burnish with the shank of a #1 Phillips screw driver.
>
Burnishing is effectively bending over the microfibers of the wood to
make them edge grain on the smallest level. It doesn't always work... I
would go as far to say rarely.
If you do this, push or sand in the same direction for each stroke. If
you go back and forth, you are pushing those microfibers back and forth,
lessening the effect.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/2/16 8:53 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
>> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
>>>
>>> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
>>> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
>>> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
>>> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
>>> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
>>> just the end grain would be tough.
>>>
>>> Thanks once again for your expertise.
>>
>> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
>> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
>>
>
> Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
> it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
>
> The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
> very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
> footboard uprights are also end grain.
>
> This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
>
> I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
>
> So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
> of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
>
> Thanks.
>
Just FYI...
That wood is going to be very splotchy anyway, so you might want to use
a conditioner on all of it as a first step.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
On 10/2/16 12:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 11:52:50 AM UTC-4, -MIKE- wrote:
>> On 10/2/16 8:53 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
>>>> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>>> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
>>>>>
>>>>> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
>>>>> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
>>>>> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
>>>>> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
>>>>> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
>>>>> just the end grain would be tough.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks once again for your expertise.
>>>>
>>>> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
>>>> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
>>> it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
>>>
>>> The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
>>> very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
>>> footboard uprights are also end grain.
>>>
>>> This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
>>>
>>> http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
>>>
>>> I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
>>>
>>> So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
>>> of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>
>> Just FYI...
>> That wood is going to be very splotchy anyway, so you might want to use
>> a conditioner on all of it as a first step.
>>
>>
>
> Perhaps you missed this statement in my OP:
>
> "I used a liberal amount of Minwax Pre-Stain on all surfaces but
> the end grain still came out much darker than the face/side grain."
>
Either missed it or forgot about it. ADD :-)
> This is a rustic style bed, so perfect color matching throughout is
> not required or even desired. Obviously "splotchy" isn't the goal. ;-)
>
> IMO, the rails came out pretty nice, but you can see how the end grain
> is much darker. Granted, the rails aren't quater-sawn, but the stain
> came out the same as on the quarter-swan samples I tried.
>
> http://i.imgur.com/oDFjTGz.jpg
>
That is very smooth and even stain application.
That is what that conditioner does for you. Looks great.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
[email protected]
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
"DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
>> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> > Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even
>> > better?
>> >
>> > I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper
>> > (like
>> > 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain.
>> > Unfortunately
>> > I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly
>> > adjacent
>> > to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
>> > difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable,
>> > burnishing
>> > just the end grain would be tough.
>> >
>> > Thanks once again for your expertise.
>>
>> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
>> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
>>
>
> Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
> it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
>
> The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
> very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
> footboard uprights are also end grain.
>
> This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
>
> http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
>
> I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
>
> So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
> of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
Or/and, dilute the stain
On 10/1/2016 2:10 PM, Swingman wrote:
> 2. Shellac sealer (Zinsser Bull Eye, right out of the can strength)
> works nicely for mitigating the darkness, applied before, and after
> sanding.
Forgot to add, a glue base sizing also works. Just mix regular wood glue
with some H2O, about half n' half. Let it soak in and dry. Test on scrap
first.
--
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even better?
>
> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper (like
> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain. Unfortunately
> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly adjacent
> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable, burnishing
> just the end grain would be tough.
>
> Thanks once again for your expertise.
1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
2. Sanding to at least 320 grit mitigates the darkness quite a bit, and
lessens the contrast. Test on scrap
2. Shellac sealer (Zinsser Bull Eye, right out of the can strength)
works nicely for mitigating the darkness, applied before, and after sanding.
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 10/1/2016 2:13 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> So, to answer my main question: Shellac would be no better than the
> Minwax pre-stain? (I have pre-stain and can surely pick up a small
> can of shellac to test, but I figured I'd ask first.)
Doubt, a pre-stain will do what you need, but test it on scrap.
Shellac or a glue sizing works better, IME.
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KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
On 10/2/2016 1:32 PM, dadiOH wrote:
> "DerbyDad03" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 3:10:21 PM UTC-4, Swingman wrote:
>>> On 10/1/2016 1:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>>> Would shellac do a better job than pre-stain? Is there something even
>>>> better?
>>>>
>>>> I also read that burnishing the end grain with a high-grit sandpaper
>>>> (like
>>>> 300+) will prevent the end grain from absorbing too much stain.
>>>> Unfortunately
>>>> I have already assembled some parts where end grain is directly
>>>> adjacent
>>>> to side grain, so burnishing just the end grain portions would be very
>>>> difficult. Applying shellac to the end grain pieces is doable,
>>>> burnishing
>>>> just the end grain would be tough.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks once again for your expertise.
>>>
>>> 1. Sometimes the darker end grain staining, due to greater absorption of
>>> the particulate, provides a nice contrast ... think Greene & Greene.
>>>
>>
>> Yes, that is what I am going for, I just don't want the stain so dark that
>> it hides the quarter-sawn end grain.
>>
>> The sides of the headboard are alternating end grain-side grain for the
>> very reason you mention: contrast. The tops of the headboard uprights and
>> footboard uprights are also end grain.
>>
>> This is the headboard, face down, unsanded, etc:
>>
>> http://i.imgur.com/bNE7j3l.jpg
>>
>> I tested the glue sizing, burnishing, etc.
>>
>> So far it looks like a combination of burnishing and multiple layers
>> of pre-stain sealer will do the trick.
>
> Or/and, dilute the stain
>
>
I don't dilute the stain, I sand with a finer sand paper, and I use
zinser sanding sealer (shellac) wash coat, diluted 1:1 with alcohol.
Sometimes 2:1 alc to shellac.
--
Jeff
On 10/1/2016 2:52 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> The bed I am building will have some exposed end grain - by design. The wood
> is quarter sawn Douglas Fir.
>
> I started staining parts of it today - pieces with end grain that will
> *not* be exposed (e.g. the side rails) - so I could see how the stain
> looked.
Don't use your final parts to experiment with finishes. Use scraps
prepped to the same level. Sooner or later, you will ruin your material
and waste hours or days of work, or spend extra hours "fixing" a finish
that is not right.