Finishing question

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:54:45 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:
>
>> Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
>> with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
>> Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.
>
>OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
>screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
>read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.

That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the
varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time.

Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is
reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.

I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is
mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I
don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where
Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings.

On Dec 16, 11:19=A0pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote:> FrozenNorth wrote:
>
> >> It just might clash with the granite counter top. =A0:-)
>
> > to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look=
good
> > above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar =
away
> > from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw grani=
te
> > up.
>
> Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
> green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.
>
> --
> Froz...
>
> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

On Dec 16, 5:06=A0pm, "Lew Hodgett" <[email protected]> wrote:
> "FrozenNorth" wrote:
> > Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
> > enough for things we like to store there. =A0List includes olive oil,
> > veggie oil, regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> > I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now
> > what to use for a clear coat? =A0Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>
> ----------------------------------------
> IMHO, any shelf in that location is a disaster waiting to happen,
> especially with flammable items placed on it.
>
> No matter what finish you choose the shelf is going to be a grease
> collector and any finish you choose is going to get tacky and not
> survive.

Not even epoxy? :-)

Actually, I'm only half joking. As our resident epoxy expert, do you
know of a fairly bullet proof epoxy or similar finish?

Luigi

"FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>> On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>>
>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>>
>> My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
>> stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
>> polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
>> acid affects it.
>>
> No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
> mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
> possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
> oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back of
> the stove.
> --
> Froz...
>
>
> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I would
not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material such as
quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it is to the
flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or scorch.

"FrozenNorth" wrote:

> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
> enough for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
> veggie oil, regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now
> what to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
----------------------------------------
IMHO, any shelf in that location is a disaster waiting to happen,
especially with flammable items placed on it.

No matter what finish you choose the shelf is going to be a grease
collector and any finish you choose is going to get tacky and not
survive.

Lew

FrozenNorth wrote:
> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
> enough for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
> veggie oil, regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now
> what to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Poly. With a piece of clear acrylic on top so you can take it off for
washing.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote:

> Not even epoxy? :-)

Actually, I'm only half joking. As our resident epoxy expert, do you
know of a fairly bullet proof epoxy or similar finish?
--------------------------------------
There is an absolutely "bullet proof" finishing system as follows:

High build epoxy primer (4-6 mils/pass) followed by linear
polyurethane.

Basic yacht finish.

Two (2) problems.

Both the primer and the LP finish are pigmented resins. (Clear LP is
available but you still need a primer.

Cost:

Going rate for high build epoxy primer is about $100/gal & linear
polyurethane is about $200/gal.

Be a lot less costly to have a fab shop bend up a piece of 316L S/S.

Lew

On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 07:13:29 -0800, Rich <[email protected]> wrote:

>FrozenNorth wrote:
>
>> On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>
>>> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
>>>> off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
>>>> much safer anyway.
>>>> --
>>>> Froz...
>>>
>>> Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
>>> happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
>>> a thing. But don't let me stop you.
>>>
>> The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
>> logic I could never turn them off.
>>
>> The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a
>> burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.
>>
>>> I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
>>> subjecting it to the heat and vapor
>>
>>
>No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't.
>Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season
>their Mammoth.

Nope, it was from trying to collect sabretooth urine for marinade that
killed them.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo

On Dec 17, 10:38=A0am, Robatoy <[email protected]> wrote:

> poly has certainly been tits.

Well, that caused a bit of coffee spew. I hadn't heard that one in
ages.... crap!

I am still chuckling while wiping up!

He said tits...

Robert

On Dec 18, 8:59=A0am, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> > "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> >> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
> >> off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
> >> much safer anyway.
> >> --
> >> Froz...
>
> > Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
> > happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk suc=
h
> > a thing. But don't let me stop you.
>
> The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
> logic I could never turn them off.
>
> The shelf will be above them. =A0Anyone worried about the chance for a
> burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.
>
> > I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
> > subjecting it to the heat and vapor
>



Corian, all colours
1/4" =96 3/4" (6 mm=9619 mm) (All colors)
FLAME SPREAD INDEX (FSI)<25
SMOKE DEVELOPED INDEX (SDI)<25

CLASS I (A)

On Dec 16, 6:28=A0pm, Luigi Zanasi <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Dec 16, 2:33=A0pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> > Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enoug=
h
> > for things we like to store there. =A0List includes olive oil, veggie o=
il,
> > regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> > I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> > to use for a clear coat? =A0Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
> > --
> > Froz...
>
> > The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
>
> My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
> stuff & it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
> polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
> acid affects it.
>
> Luigi

Oil won't harm shellac. Can't French polish without it.

On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 09:06:09 -0800 (PST), Robatoy
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Dec 18, 11:50 am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
>wrote:

>> Nope, it was from trying to collect sabretooth urine for marinade that
>> killed them.
>>
>
>I know for a fact that not all cavemen died.

Damn, not your old brag again...

--
If the only prayer you ever say in your whole
life is "thank you," that would suffice.
-- Meister Eckhart

On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 21:59:57 -0500, "Morgans"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
><[email protected]> wrote
>
>> I am still chuckling while wiping up!
>>
>> He said tits...
>
>If you liked that, how about his one...
>
>Boobs! There, I said it - Booobs! <g>

I'm a follower of Confuciust (is that a word?) thinking regarding
small titties: One in mouth worth two in hand.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo

On Dec 18, 11:50=A0am, Larry Jaques <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 07:13:29 -0800, Rich <[email protected]> wrote:
> >FrozenNorth wrote:
>
> >> On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> >>> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> >>>> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
> >>>> off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would b=
e
> >>>> much safer anyway.
> >>>> --
> >>>> Froz...
>
> >>> Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
> >>> happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk s=
uch
> >>> a thing. But don't let me stop you.
>
> >> The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by yo=
ur
> >> logic I could never turn them off.
>
> >> The shelf will be above them. =A0Anyone worried about the chance for a
> >> burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.
>
> >>> I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
> >>> subjecting it to the heat and vapor
>
> >No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't=
.
> >Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season
> >their Mammoth.
>
> Nope, it was from trying to collect sabretooth urine for marinade that
> killed them.
>
> --
> The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
> =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =
=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 -- Okakura Kakuzo

I know for a fact that not all cavemen died.

On Dec 16, 6:28=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:

> This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
> amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
> ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
> significantly.
>
> Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
> none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
> the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.
>
> Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

As a finisher, I must say this is the best response posted. Sure, you
can put a little piece of granite, stainless, laminate, etc., on this
accessory.

But since he specifically asked for a FINISH, I this is where
POLYURETHANE (for the impaired cave dwellers living in 1970s
woodworking fog) shines at its best.

For commonly found finishes available over the counter:

No finish is more cleanable.
No finish is more resistant to chemicals.
No finish is more abrasion resistant.
No finish is easier to apply.
For its toughness, no finish is easier to remove then reapply if
needed.

You can even get some tough as nails water based that won't yellow
over time such as Campbell, Sherwin Williams, etc.

Spot on there, Sonoma.

Robert

> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> to use for a clear coat? =A0Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
significantly.

Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.

Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.

Larry Jaques wrote:
> On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 21:59:57 -0500, "Morgans"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>
>> <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>>> I am still chuckling while wiping up!
>>>
>>> He said tits...
>>
>> If you liked that, how about his one...
>>
>> Boobs! There, I said it - Booobs! <g>
>
> I'm a follower of Confuciust (is that a word?) thinking regarding
> small titties: One in mouth worth two in hand.

Ah so... and more than a mouthful is wasted!

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

"EXT" <[email protected]> writes:
>
>"FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>>> On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>>>
>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>>>
>>> My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
>>> stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
>>> polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
>>> acid affects it.
>>>
>> No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
>> mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
>> possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
>> oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back of
>> the stove.

>
>Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I would
>not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material such as
>quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it is to the
>flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or scorch.
>
>

I built one from some old growth redwood over a decade ago. Finished
it with Howard's Feed-n-wax. Still looking good and has held up just
fine (balsamic, bowl for sea/kosher salt, salt and pepper grinders).

Mounted on the wall, about 8" above the control panel top with two keyhole
slots.

scott

"FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>
>> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
>>> off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
>>> much safer anyway.
>>> --
>>> Froz...
>>
>> Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
>> happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
>> a thing. But don't let me stop you.
>>
> The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
> logic I could never turn them off.
>
> The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a burn
> from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.

I use gas where the burners are sensibly up front. I'm neither a lawyer or
totally paranoid, but I've known of accidents from reaching over hot pots
and splattering grease. Of course, storing condiments in one of the
hottest spots in the kitchen is probably not the best idea either. Doubt
it will affect salt, but if the balsamic vinegar is good stuff, you'd not
have it in the light anyway. Cheap stuff makes little difference.

<[email protected]> wrote

> I am still chuckling while wiping up!
>
> He said tits...

If you liked that, how about his one...

Boobs! There, I said it - Booobs!

<g>
--
Jim in NC

In article <[email protected]>, frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...
>
> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Best bet's probably polyurethane. A precatalyzed lacquer would also be
good but it may take a week or so before you don't smell it anymore.

In article <[email protected]>, frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...
>
> On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
> > On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
> >> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
> >> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
> >>
> >> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> >> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
> >
> > My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
> > stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
> > polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
> > acid affects it.
> >
> No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
> mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
> possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
> oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
> of the stove.

Shouldn't be an issue for a decent urethane.

In article <c3e9b771-4b2c-4ff0-994e-8e204e754525
@d8g2000yqf.googlegroups.com>, [email protected] says...
>
> On Dec 16, 7:13 pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
> > > I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> > >  to
> > > use for a clear coat?  Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
> >
> > Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
> > alcohol.  Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
> > other film finish.
> >
> > But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
> > oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
> > probably easier to find.  That way the shelf is easily refinished.
> >
> > --
> > Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
> Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
> Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
> Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
> better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
> polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
> Saran wrap feel.

If your polyurethane is giving you a "cloudy, yellow finish with a Saran
wrap feel" perhaps you should not let the cat pee in the can next time.

In article <[email protected]>, frozenNorth123
@gm.nospam.ail.com says...
>
> On 12/16/10 9:31 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> > FrozenNorth wrote:
> >
> >>>>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
> >>>>>>> enough
> >>>>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
> >>>>>>> veggie oil,
> >>>>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
> >>>>>>> now what
> >>>>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
> >
> > Are you opposed to formica?
> >
> It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)
>
> Seriously, my wife suggested tonight just painting it white, which would
> blend in with the ceramics between the granite and the cabinets, maybe I
> can find a white enamel paint with some heat resistant qualities. Sounds
> like a trip to HD and/or Rona tomorrow, see what I can find in the way
> of brackets and finish.

If you can find a supplier for it, M.L. Campbell's Magnamax comes in
white as well as clear, same properties pretty much. Just about
anything wipes off it without a mark. But again it's going to smell
like lacquer for a while and don't let it near a flame until it stops
doing so.

In article <[email protected]>,
FrozenNorth <[email protected]> wrote:

> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Stainless steel. Matching the cabinets won't be much of an issue when
it's on fire. Put the oils somewhere else, too. The vinegar and salt
might at least help to put the fire out...

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

On Dec 17, 11:13=A0am, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 12/17/10 10:13 AM, Robatoy wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Dec 16, 11:19 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >> On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote:> =A0FrozenNorth wrote:
>
> >>>> It just might clash with the granite counter top. =A0:-)
>
> >>> to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would lo=
ok good
> >>> above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinega=
r away
> >>> from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw gra=
nite
> >>> up.
>
> >> Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the da=
rk
> >> green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.
>
> >> --
> >> Froz...
>
> >> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
>
> > Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
> > solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
> > of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
> > freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.
>
> Actually I sent an email to your gmail account last night, not sure if
> you check it regularly or at all. =A0Please provide another means of
> contact if that account is no longer valid.
>
> --
> Froz...
>
> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

I replied to it already, and yes, I do check it once per day minimum.

A more direct route is designatangstromperiodca

FrozenNorth wrote:

>>>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
>>>>>> enough
>>>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
>>>>>> veggie oil,
>>>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
>>>>>> now what
>>>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?

Are you opposed to formica?

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Dec 16, 2:33=A0pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
wrote:
> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
> for things we like to store there. =A0List includes olive oil, veggie oil=
,
> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> to use for a clear coat? =A0Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
> --
> Froz...
>
> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
stuff & it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
acid affects it.

Luigi

On Dec 16, 7:13=A0pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
> > I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> > =A0to
> > use for a clear coat? =A0Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>
> Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
> alcohol. =A0Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
> other film finish.
>
> But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
> oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
> probably easier to find. =A0That way the shelf is easily refinished.
>
> --
> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
Saran wrap feel.

Robatoy wrote:

>
> Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
> onto a heat source?
> .
> .
> .
> Me neither.

Liar...

--

-Mike-
[email protected]

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800 (PST), Father Haskell
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Dec 16, 7:13 pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:
>> On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:
>> > I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>> >  to
>> > use for a clear coat?  Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>>
>> Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
>> alcohol.  Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
>> other film finish.
>>
>> But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
>> oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
>> probably easier to find.  That way the shelf is easily refinished.
>>
>> --
>> Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
>
>Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil.
>Lay it on with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat.
>Looks just like Danish oil, but builds faster and wears
>better. Behlen's Rockhard is great, alkyd a close second,
>polyurethane okay if you like a cloudy, yellow finish with a
>Saran wrap feel.

I've had varnish on bookshelves get sticky on me. Rockhard and
Waterlox are both tung oil and phenolic resin based and work better
than most. Waterlox has products for shiny, medium, and nice, matte
finishes. It's quick to apply, quick to dry, and has a very nice
hand. Just Do It!


--
Small opportunities are often the beginning of great enterprises.
-- Demosthenes

On Dec 17, 11:22=A0am, "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Dec 16, 6:28=A0pm, "SonomaProducts.com" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
> > amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
> > ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
> > significantly.
>
> > Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
> > none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
> > the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.
>
> > Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.
>
> As a finisher, I must say this is the best response posted. =A0Sure, you
> can put a little piece of granite, stainless, laminate, etc., on this
> accessory.
>
> But since he specifically asked for a FINISH, I this is where
> POLYURETHANE (for the impaired cave dwellers living in 1970s
> woodworking fog) shines at its best.
>
> For commonly found finishes available over the counter:
>
> No finish is more cleanable.
> No finish is more resistant to chemicals.
> No finish is more abrasion resistant.
> No finish is easier to apply.
> For its toughness, no finish is easier to remove then reapply if
> needed.
>
> You can even get some tough as nails water based that won't yellow
> over time such as Campbell, Sherwin Williams, etc.
>
> Spot on there, Sonoma.
>
> Robert

As I have finished many side panels, next to fridges and near stoves,
poly has certainly been tits.
Stuff doesn't look that bad either.

On Dec 17, 12:03=A0pm, Larry Blanchard <[email protected]> wrote:

> However you are right about the solvents - I should have mentioned that. =
=A0
> Any strong alkali, like ammonia, will harm it.

It is a kitchen, after all. It will be cleaned. The best cleaners
are really nasty stuff.

I had an article from years ago about that best kitchen cleaners
(germane to my finishing business one would think I would have kept
it) and how they affected the surfaces they cleaned.

When I "final clean" my jobs, I am a big proponent of 409 since it
will cut oil, grease, and even take off pencil marks.

The report I had tested the cleaners to see how deep they cleaned and
if they damaged surfaces. In their testing, they found 409 to be
quite effective, but quite destructive. It ate off all manner of
kitchen cabinet finishes, took off paint, and even etched metal.

When I pick a finish for an item, I always think of what I could put
on it to make it look the best, wear the best, and what will keep me
out of warranty work.

Robert

On Dec 16, 6:57=A0pm, FrozenNorth <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:> On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth=
<[email protected]>
> > wrote:
> >> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enou=
gh
> >> for things we like to store there. =A0List includes olive oil, veggie =
oil,
> >> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>
> >> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now wha=
t
> >> to use for a clear coat? =A0Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>
> > My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
> > stuff& =A0it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
> > polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
> > acid affects it.
>
> No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
> mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
> possibility. =A0I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
> oils and vinegars may be a problem. =A0They are so handy just at the back
> of the stove.
> --
> Froz...
>
> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
onto a heat source?
.
.
.
Me neither.

On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
> On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>
>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>
> My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
> stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
> polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
> acid affects it.
>
No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
of the stove.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:33:16 -0500, FrozenNorth wrote:

> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
> to
> use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?


Assuming it's dewaxed shellac all you have to worry about is heat and
alcohol. Grease etc wipes off of shellac just like it wipes off of any
other film finish.

But considering the shelf might lead a rough life I'd go for one of long
oil varnishes (aka Danish oil) - Tried & True is my favorite but Watco is
probably easier to find. That way the shelf is easily refinished.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 12/16/10 7:11 PM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Dec 16, 6:57 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:> On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>
>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>>
>>> My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
>>> stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
>>> polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
>>> acid affects it.
>>
>> No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why I
>> mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters is a
>> possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the various
>> oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at the back
>> of the stove.
>> --
>> Froz...
>>
>> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
>
> Gas or electric? Have ever had a bottle of oil slip out of your hands
> onto a heat source?
> .
> .
> .
> Me neither.

Electric.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/16/10 7:24 PM, EXT wrote:
>
> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>>> On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
>>> wrote:
>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
>>>> enough
>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>>>
>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>>>
>>> My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
>>> stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
>>> polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
>>> acid affects it.
>>>
>> No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why
>> I mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters
>> is a possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the
>> various oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at
>> the back of the stove.
>> --
>> Froz...
>>
>>
>> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
>
> Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I
> would not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material
> such as quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it
> is to the flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or
> scorch.
>
>
It is going to be no closer than the cabinet clearance allowed.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/16/10 7:30 PM, FrozenNorth wrote:
> On 12/16/10 7:24 PM, EXT wrote:
>>
>> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>> On 12/16/10 6:28 PM, Luigi Zanasi wrote:
>>>> On Dec 16, 2:33 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
>>>>> enough
>>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie
>>>>> oil,
>>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now
>>>>> what
>>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>>>>
>>>> My initial reaction is always shellac. But given that you might spill
>>>> stuff& it will get greasy, I would day this is one place where
>>>> polyurinestain (tmLJ) is justified. You might want to check if acetic
>>>> acid affects it.
>>>>
>>> No direct spills, but drips out of the bottles is likely, that is why
>>> I mentioned the contents and you are right grease and misc splatters
>>> is a possibility. I was leaning towards poly, just wondering if the
>>> various oils and vinegars may be a problem. They are so handy just at
>>> the back of the stove.
>>> --
>>> Froz...
>>>
>>>
>>> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
>>
>> Anything wood will have a short life with heat, grease and cleaning. I
>> would not recommend it. But, if you must, I think a synthetic material
>> such as quartz or corian, will outlast wood. Depending on how close it
>> is to the flames or heating elements, it could catch fire or blister or
>> scorch.
>>
>>
> It is going to be no closer than the cabinet clearance allowed.
>
I'll add, it is only about 4 inches deep, we use wine bottles for small
amount of the oils and vinegars, it will give plenty of clearance for
the burners.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/16/10 9:31 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
> FrozenNorth wrote:
>
>>>>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep
>>>>>>> enough
>>>>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
>>>>>>> veggie oil,
>>>>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
>>>>>>> now what
>>>>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>
> Are you opposed to formica?
>
It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

Seriously, my wife suggested tonight just painting it white, which would
blend in with the ceramics between the granite and the cabinets, maybe I
can find a white enamel paint with some heat resistant qualities. Sounds
like a trip to HD and/or Rona tomorrow, see what I can find in the way
of brackets and finish.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

FrozenNorth wrote:

> It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)

to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
up.

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote:
> FrozenNorth wrote:
>
>> It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)
>
> to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
> above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
> from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
> up.
>
Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/17/10 10:13 AM, Robatoy wrote:
> On Dec 16, 11:19 pm, FrozenNorth<[email protected]>
> wrote:
>> On 12/16/10 10:59 PM, Rich wrote:> FrozenNorth wrote:
>>
>>>> It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)
>>
>>> to bad you don't have any granite left over. A granite shelf would look good
>>> above the cook top and it can't burn. You need to keep oil and vinegar away
>>> from the granite though. Its one of the few things that can screw granite
>>> up.
>>
>> Totally agree, it would be a no brainer, unfortunately matching the dark
>> green/black mottled black granite we have could be difficult.
>>
>> --
>> Froz...
>>
>> The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
>
> Uba Tuba? How about a complementary colour as it is a 'featurette' in
> solid surface? I have all kinds of small pieces like that in a variety
> of colours. Black with a flake? Black with a stipple? Pure white? A
> freebie if you want it, if you find a way to get it to you.

Actually I sent an email to your gmail account last night, not sure if
you check it regularly or at all. Please provide another means of
contact if that account is no longer valid.

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On 12/17/10 11:20 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
> In article<[email protected]>, frozenNorth123
> @gm.nospam.ail.com says...
>>
>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't deep enough
>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil, veggie oil,
>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>
>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>
> Best bet's probably polyurethane. A precatalyzed lacquer would also be
> good but it may take a week or so before you don't smell it anymore.

I can deal with a week of smell, I did the recommended burn cycle on the
new stove, the factory smell still comes out when I turn it on.

Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off
the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much
safer anyway.
--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:

> Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
> with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
> Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.

OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.


--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 16:28:05 -0800, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

> This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
> amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not ONLY
> harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
> significantly.

While it is true that shellac with wax in it will water spot easily,
dewaxed shellac, if let dry for a few days, will not. I have tried to
water spot it and failed. Drops of water left on it overnight, a
sweating glass, an icecube allowed to melt, nothing caused water
spotting. With our hard water some of them left mineral spots, but those
wiped right off. Try it yourself - you'll be surprised.

However you are right about the solvents - I should have mentioned that.
Any strong alkali, like ammonia, will harm it.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

FrozenNorth wrote:
> On 12/16/10 9:31 PM, Mike Marlow wrote:
>> FrozenNorth wrote:
>>
>>>>>>>> Just got a new stove, the back above the control panel isn't
>>>>>>>> deep enough
>>>>>>>> for things we like to store there. List includes olive oil,
>>>>>>>> veggie oil,
>>>>>>>> regular, balsamic and wine vinegar, salt and pepper.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets,
>>>>>>>> now what
>>>>>>>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>>
>> Are you opposed to formica?
>>
> It just might clash with the granite counter top. :-)
>
> Seriously, my wife suggested tonight just painting it white, which
> would blend in with the ceramics between the granite and the
> cabinets, maybe I can find a white enamel paint with some heat
> resistant qualities. Sounds like a trip to HD and/or Rona tomorrow,
> see what I can find in the way of brackets and finish.

a scrap piece of granite supported on a couple countersunk rods. you can
polish the edge with wet/dry sandpaper.

tiredofspam wrote:
> Actually Shellac stands up better than you think.
> Yes it will water spot, but there won't be any water on it.


vinegar is mostly water.

> I think you should be fine with shellac. It repairs the easiest of all
> since a new coat melts the old. It goes over waxy substances, and
> grease. Yes it does, it is used as a sealer when all else fails.
>
> So go for it.
>

On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>>
>> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
>> off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
>> much safer anyway.
>> --
>> Froz...
>
> Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
> happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
> a thing. But don't let me stop you.
>
The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
logic I could never turn them off.

The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a
burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.

> I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
> subjecting it to the heat and vapor


--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

FrozenNorth wrote:

> On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>
>> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
>>> off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
>>> much safer anyway.
>>> --
>>> Froz...
>>
>> Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
>> happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
>> a thing. But don't let me stop you.
>>
> The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by your
> logic I could never turn them off.
>
> The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a
> burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.
>
>> I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before
>> subjecting it to the heat and vapor
>
>
No kidding, wonder how the cave men survived? Oh thats right they didn't.
Doubt it was because they were burned while grabbing the salt to season
their Mammoth.
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

Man. 2010.1 Spring
KDE4.4
2.6.33.5-desktop-2mnb

On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 05:36:07 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:

>>Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is
>>reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.
>
> I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer Waterlox.
> It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher product.

T&T have 3 different products. Not sure which one you're referring to.
I meant the oil/varnish mix. Sounds like you may have mean the oil/
beeswax mix.

I got started using T&T on bowls and such because it's non-toxic. It
worked so well I started using it elsewhere. But shellac is still my
favorite finish.

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

On 12/18/10 11:33 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>
> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> On 12/17/10 11:31 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
>>>
>>> "FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall
>>>> off the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be
>>>> much safer anyway.
>>>> --
>>>> Froz...
>>>
>>> Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
>>> happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such
>>> a thing. But don't let me stop you.
>>>
>> The burner controls are back there anyway, what is the big deal, by
>> your logic I could never turn them off.
>>
>> The shelf will be above them. Anyone worried about the chance for a
>> burn from this is either a lawyer from California or totally paranoid.
>
> I use gas where the burners are sensibly up front. I'm neither a lawyer
> or totally paranoid, but I've known of accidents from reaching over hot
> pots and splattering grease. Of course, storing condiments in one of the
> hottest spots in the kitchen is probably not the best idea either. Doubt
> it will affect salt, but if the balsamic vinegar is good stuff, you'd
> not have it in the light anyway. Cheap stuff makes little difference.

No gas in the house, I am in Canada, I am lucky to have electricity, I
use whale and seal blubber for heat.

I am not in the banana belt. :-)

--
Froz...


The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.

"FrozenNorth" <[email protected]> wrote
>
> Thanks for all the great info and ideas, we never had anything fall off
> the back of the stove, so this shelf mounted to the wall would be much
> safer anyway.
> --
> Froz...

Reaching across a stove top with burners on is nuts anyway. Would not
happen in my house. I value my (and mywife's) skin too much to risk such a
thing. But don't let me stop you.

I'd use a polyurethane and let it cure for a week or so before subjecting it
to the heat and vapor

On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 18:15:50 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 05:36:07 -0800, Larry Jaques wrote:
>
>>>Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is
>>>reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.
>>
>> I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer Waterlox.
>> It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher product.
>
>T&T have 3 different products. Not sure which one you're referring to.
>I meant the oil/varnish mix. Sounds like you may have mean the oil/
>beeswax mix.

No, the 'good stuff', the varnish oil. It's thick, thick, thick, like
honey which is starting to crystallize! I wonder if that can is still
usable...


>I got started using T&T on bowls and such because it's non-toxic. It
>worked so well I started using it elsewhere. But shellac is still my
>favorite finish.

Waterlox Original in Satin is mine, bar none. A definite step up from
Watco, especially in odor.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo

On Sat, 18 Dec 2010 00:08:17 -0800, Jim Weisgram
<[email protected]> wrote:

>On Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:54:45 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
><[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 23:17:35 -0800, Father Haskell wrote:
>>
>>> Try just varnish straight from the can, no thinner, no oil. Lay it on
>>> with a rag and buff until nearly dry, then repeat. Looks just like
>>> Danish oil, but builds faster and wears better.
>>
>>OK, but can you just wipe on another coat when the original finish gets
>>screwed up? Or do you have to remove the old finish first? What I've
>>read is that of all the film finishes only shellac can be recoated as is.
>
>That's a valid concern. I think the assumption here is that the
>varnish is plenty tough enough and it will hold up for a long time.

For most varnishes, except polyurinestain, that's true. Do a quick
scuff to give it tooth, dewax it with mineral spirits (taking no
chances that it got a squirt of Pledge), then rub on another coat.


>Tried & True is a pretty unique product. Applied correctly, it is
>reasonably tough stuff and easy to replenish.

I've tried honey (t&t) before and it was OK, but I much prefer
Waterlox. It's much easier to rub on and I feel that it's a tougher
product.


>I don't think you would get the same protection from Watco. Watco is
>mostly thinner with some linseed oil, resins and metallic dryers. I
>don't think it qualifies as "long oil". And I've seen cases where
>Watco was used and the wood easily stained with water rings.

If Watco stained with water rings, it was from too few coats. It's
not as sturdy, as you state, though. Other products are better.

--
The art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings.
-- Okakura Kakuzo

Actually Shellac stands up better than you think.
Yes it will water spot, but there won't be any water on it.

I think you should be fine with shellac. It repairs the easiest of all
since a new coat melts the old. It goes over waxy substances, and
grease. Yes it does, it is used as a sealer when all else fails.

So go for it.

On 12/16/2010 7:28 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
>> I have the shelf made and coloured properly to match cabinets, now what
>> to use for a clear coat? Poly, varnish, shellac or ?
>
> This application SCREAMs for poly. No way Shellac. Any fluid with any
> amount of water, ie vinegar, sitting on it will ruin it. It is not
> ONLY harmed by alcohol. Lots of solvents and any wetness will harm it
> significantly.
>
> Oil varnishes will provide some varying degree resistance from some to
> none. Poly is bullet proof except for too much heat, as will be any of
> the finishes and it also will have the most resistance to heat of any.
>
> Three choices. Poly, poly or poly. Or expoxy.