http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into 1"
pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up, and
glued them up.
About a pint of BLO later...
It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond what
you could get in formica.
I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
Herman Family wrote:
> "Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Tom Watson wrote:
>>http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm
>>
>>
>>At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
>>Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
>>4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
>>was one of the best surfaces to work on.
>>
>>UA100
>
>
> The train museum in Pine Bluff, Arkansas has the same sort of floor. They
> used that because the end grain is so much tougher than side grain.
>
> Michael
>
>
I think a lot of 19th century factories had end-grain floors.
--RC
REAL butcher block has always been endgrain, for wear resistance. Some
Japanese blocks are actually a section of hard maple, maybe 4-8" thick
and a foot in diameter, just cut straight from the tree and then iron
banded like a hot tub to prevent splitting.
I have two 2" thick endgrain hard maple boards about 12x18, they do
drink oil, but they last forever.
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 00:23:23 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]> wrote:
>Tom Watson wrote:
>http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm
>
>
>At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
>Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
>4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
>was one of the best surfaces to work on.
>
>UA100
yabut, end-grain *plywood*? There's just something wrong about that.
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
Army General Richard Cody
+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+
> Dan White wrote:
> > The grain separates a little at the knife edge, kind of like
> > the way a horsehair (or whatever material that is) dartboard does.
> > dwhite
>JLarsson <[email protected]> schreef
> I believe that would be "boar bristles".
***
No, dartboards are purely vegetable (i.e. sisal fiber), e.g.
http://www.dartboards.com/cart/shopper.cfm/action=view/key=ESC003
"Unisaw A100" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Tom Watson wrote:
> http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm
>
>
> At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
> Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
> 4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
> was one of the best surfaces to work on.
>
> UA100
The train museum in Pine Bluff, Arkansas has the same sort of floor. They
used that because the end grain is so much tougher than side grain.
Michael
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 01:09:15 GMT, "toller" <[email protected]> wrote:
>http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
>
>I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into 1"
>pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up, and
>glued them up.
>About a pint of BLO later...
>
>It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond what
>you could get in formica.
>
>I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
>
http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1 (webpage)
Typically "Chopping" blocks are made this way with the end grain up. For
true cutting boards,
I've typically seen edge grain showing. Either way, I'm sure it'll work
just fine!
Cheers,
cc
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>
>> "toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:%[email protected]...
>>> http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
>>>
>>> I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
>>> 1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
>>> up, and glued them up.
>>> About a pint of BLO later...
>>>
>>> It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
>>> what you could get in formica.
>>>
>>> I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
>>
>> It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything
>> liquid on it?
> No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If you
> apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a while, apply
> more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw wood.
>
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
>
> I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
1"
> pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up,
and
> glued them up.
> About a pint of BLO later...
>
> It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what
> you could get in formica.
>
> I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
>
>
I guess there's no accounting for taste, but I kinda like it.
--
-Mike-
[email protected]
I think it's butt ugly!! But it looks cool in an ugly sort of way and things
like that are fun to build...even if you're really not sure if you should
give it away (I should know...I have a cupboard full of things that look
just like that!)
<g!>
Rob
--
http://www.robswoodworking.com
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
>
> I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
1"
> pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up,
and
> glued them up.
> About a pint of BLO later...
>
> It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
what
> you could get in formica.
>
> I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
>
>
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>> It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything
>> liquid on it?
> No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If
> you apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a
> while, apply more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw
> wood.
Red oak, and other ring porous woods? Think a bundle of drinking straws...
Patriarch
Tom Watson <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:
<snip>
>
> http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm
>
Not in my house, thank you.
Patriarch
"Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:%[email protected]...
>> http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
>>
>> I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
>> 1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
>> up, and glued them up.
>> About a pint of BLO later...
>>
>> It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
>> what you could get in formica.
>>
>> I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
>
> It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything liquid
> on it?
No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If you
apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a while, apply
more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw wood.
toller <[email protected]> wrote:
: http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
: I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into 1"
: pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was up, and
: glued them up.
: About a pint of BLO later...
Make sure that stuff cures properly before putting food on it.
Next time you could try walnut oil (edible, cures, has a nice amber cast
to it).
-- Andy Barss
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Typically "Chopping" blocks are made this way with the end grain up. For
> true cutting boards,
> I've typically seen edge grain showing. Either way, I'm sure it'll work
> just fine!
> Cheers,
> cc
Yes, the endgrain does not dull the blade as quickly as a "cross grain"
cutting board. The grain separates a little at the knife edge, kind of like
the way a horsehair (or whatever material that is) dartboard does.
dwhite
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
>
> I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them into
> 1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
> up, and glued them up.
> About a pint of BLO later...
>
> It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
> what you could get in formica.
>
> I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything liquid
on it?
"toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Edwin Pawlowski" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> >
> > "toller" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:%[email protected]...
> >> http://www.frontiernet.net/~toller/Cuttingboard.jpg
> >>
> >> I glued up two cutting boards out of radom scraps. Then I cut them
into
> >> 1" pieces, mixed them up, and turned them so that all the end grain was
> >> up, and glued them up.
> >> About a pint of BLO later...
> >>
> >> It looks and feels like smooth formica, except the detail is way beyond
> >> what you could get in formica.
> >>
> >> I am not sure I like it, but it is interesting.
> >
> > It does look interesting, but end grain? Won't is suck up anything
liquid
> > on it?
> No, it is completely saturated with BLO. And I mean competely. If you
> apply it to the top, some wicks out the bottom. Let it dry a while, apply
> more, etc. It weights significantly more than the raw wood.
>
>
Large butcher cutting "blocks" are built this way
Tom Watson wrote:
> http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm
So that's why I'm only getting MDF and jummywood dunnage now. Them folks is
takin' my 6x6 oak timbers and turnin' 'em into some decidedly not terribly
attractive flooring.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan <[email protected]>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
http://www.geocities.com/Paris/Rue/5407/
http://rosegarden.sourceforge.net/tutorial/
Well.now you have me thinking :)
a 3/4" sheet of plywood ripped into 3/4" pieces and stacked on a floor end
grain up will price out to a little over a buck a square foot....and it
would be unique :)
Hmm......
Rob
--
http://www.robswoodworking.com
"Mark & Juanita" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 00:23:23 GMT, Unisaw A100 <[email protected]>
wrote:
>
> >Tom Watson wrote:
> >http://www.kaswell.com/woodblock/oakplank.htm
> >
> >
> >At the first architectural woodworking shop (Loughman/St.
> >Louis) I worked in the floor in the shop was made from
> >4 X 6's cut 4"(ish) long and laid on the concrete. It
> >was one of the best surfaces to work on.
> >
> >UA100
>
> yabut, end-grain *plywood*? There's just something wrong about that.
>
>
>
>
>
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----+
> The absence of accidents does not mean the presence of safety
> Army General Richard Cody
>
+---------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----+